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如今的戛纳,时尚无关个性

更新时间:2016-6-11 9:44:32 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

In Cannes, Fashion Is Anything but ‘Indie’
如今的戛纳,时尚无关个性

After rounding up the latest red-carpet culprits in Cannes, you begin to wonder if there is real fashion, or, indeed, a real person. Of course you expect a drag queen element — tired cleavage, blue-hued ruffles, an expertly kicked-out leg — but what I don’t get is why so many women surrender to mannequin glamour. At Cannes, strangely, pleasure and modesty seem an enemy, and the plainest outfit, like the silk blouse and skirt that Jessica Chastain wore to one event, looks in that giddy crowd like an ironical statement, when it’s just a nice blouse and skirt.

盘点戛纳电影节红毯上最新出现的人物时,你会想这里面是否有真正的时尚,或者说有没有真实的人。当然,肯定能看见点变装皇后的元素——俗套的开叉,蓝色褶皱,巧妙露出的美腿——我真不明白为什么那么多女人愿意把自己变成没有个性的人体模特。奇怪的是,在戛纳电影节上,快乐和谦逊似乎是敌人,最平凡的服装——比如杰西卡·查斯坦(Jessica Chastain)在一次活动中穿的丝质上衣和短裙——在令人眼花缭乱的人群中看起来像是一种讽刺,因为它们只是还算好看的上衣和短裙。

Sofia Coppola looked as if she had outwitted the stylists and the luxury specialists, despite her Louis Vuitton mini dress and sandals, by appearing comfortable and detached. Jennifer Lawrence wore skinny trousers and an unusual hand-knit bustier, by Dior. As a juror, Nicole Kidman had a lot of changes — first a flower-embroidered Dior princess number and later a chilly white Valentino lace dress and a sweet L’Wren Scott leaf-print gown. But Ms. Kidman’s poise, her intimate connection to fashion and the softening of her hair when needed make her always seem at a happy distance from the dress drama.

索菲娅·科波拉(Sofia Coppola)看起来好像超越了造型师和奢侈品专家,尽管她穿着路易·威登(Louis Vuitton)的超短裙和凉鞋,却看起来舒服自在。詹妮弗·劳伦斯(Jennifer Lawrence)穿着修身长裤和奇特的手工编织紧身女胸衣,都来自迪奥(Dior)。妮可·基德曼(Nicole Kidman)作为评审,换了好几身衣服——先是穿了一件迪奥绣花公主连衣裙,后来穿的是华伦天奴(Valentino)的冷白色蕾丝连衣裙,而后是L’Wren Scott的印着叶子图案的甜美礼服。但是基德曼的姿态,她与时尚的密切联系以及必要时做的柔和发型,使她看起来总是与礼服盛会保持着微妙的距离。

The other day The Cut blog ran a slide show of early ’90s images from Cannes. You had the impression that the stars, among them Meg Ryan in a long white T-shirt dress and motorcycle boots, actually dressed themselves. And without the makeup-brand slaps of paint, they looked youthful.

不久前的一天,The Cut博客播放了一组20世纪90年代戛纳电影节的幻灯片。这些照片给你这种印象:那些明星们其实是自己打扮自己,其中梅格·瑞恩(Meg Ryan)穿了一件白色的长T恤连衣裙和机车靴。而且那时候她们没用名牌化妆品把自己的脸涂抹起来,所以看起来比较年轻。

With big-time houses ruling Cannes fashion, you can’t expect much individuality or true wildness. Florence Welch’s pink polka-dot Miu Miu dress came close. Used to being naked, some of the models wore gowns that probably qualified as natural-looking, like Petra Nemcova in a liquid Pucci and Alessandra Ambrosio in fringed Tom Ford. But few are willing to be themselves.

如今大牌时装公司主导着戛纳的时装,你别指望能看到太多个性或者真正的野性。弗洛伦斯·韦尔奇(Florence Welch)穿的缪缪(Miu Miu)粉色波尔卡圆点连衣裙是其中比较有个性的一件。有些曾经裸体出镜过的模特,她们的礼服样子大概还算自然,比如佩特拉·内姆科娃(Petra Nemcova)穿着Pucci的柔软连衣裙,亚历山大·安布罗休(Alessandra Ambrosio)穿着汤姆·福特(Tom Ford)的流苏连衣裙。但是几乎没有人愿意显露自己的本色。

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