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华裔时装设计师不断壮大

更新时间:2016-6-11 9:42:48 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

Documenting a Growing Force in Fashion
华裔时装设计师不断壮大

THROUGHOUT THE RECENT and meteoric rise of Asian-Americans in fashion, there have been numerous milestones, as when Alexander Wang was named the creative director of Balenciaga last year, or when Jason Wu designed Michelle Obama’s first inaugural gown in 2009 (and her second one this year). Before them, beginning in the 1980s, came a handful of pioneers, like Vera Wang and Anna Sui.

亚裔美国人最近在时装界迅速崛起,其中有很多里程碑,比如去年王大仁(Alexander Wang)被任命为巴黎世家的创意总监,2009年吴季刚(Jason Wu)设计米歇尔·奥巴马的第一件就职礼服(今年又设计了她的第二件就职礼服)。在这之前,从20世纪80年代开始,就出现了几个先锋人物,比如王薇薇(Vera Wang)和安娜苏(Anna Sui)。

Underscoring their rapid ascent is a pair of fashion exhibitions opening Friday at the Museum of Chinese in America. One shows the influence of Western dress on Shanghai fashion from the 1910s to 1940s, a period before designer names were established in China; the other focuses on designers of the last 30 years, who are now stars in the United States, and increasingly so in China. The change in perception is all the more impressive when you consider that the museum’s last exploration of fashion was a history of Chinese laundry workers organized by the New York Chinatown History Project in 1983.

周五在美国华人博物馆(Museum of Chinese in America)举行的两场时装展览着重展示他们的快速崛起。其中一场展示的是从1910年到1950年西方服装对上海时尚的影响,在那个时期,设计师的名字在中国尚不为人所知;另一场则重点介绍过去30年的设计师,他们如今在美国是明星设计师,在中国的知名度也越来越高。如果考虑到该博物馆上一场关于时装的展览的主题,就更能深刻体会到视角上的转变。上场展览探究的是华人洗衣工的历史,是1983年由“纽约中国城历史项目机构”组织的。

“Now you don’t think of Chinese-Americans in fashion in terms of laundromats,” said Helen Koh, the museum’s executive director. “You think of fashion designers.”

“现在当你想起时装界的华裔美国人时,你想到的不是洗衣工,”该博物馆的执行总监海伦·谷(Helen Koh)说,“你想到的是服装设计师。”

The exhibition called “Front Row: Chinese American Designers” was curated by Mary Ping, a designer who selected recent works from her colleagues, with an eye to their signature looks. From Ms. Wang, she chose a bridal gown, but one that was red, since the color was both provocative, in the context of a wedding, and evocative, in the sense of China. From Mr. Wu, she selected a navy gown with a harness top from his Helmut Newton-inspired collection. From Humberto Leon and Carol Lim of Opening Ceremony, she incorporated looks from their bountiful collaborations, with Robert Clergerie, Timberland and others.

本次展览名叫“前排:华裔美国设计师”(Front Row: Chinese American Designers),策展人是设计师玛丽·平(Mary Ping),她挑选的是同行们最近的标志性作品。王薇薇的作品中,她挑选的是一件红色的婚纱,因为红色从婚礼的角度看显得很刺激,从中国的角度看能引起共鸣。吴季刚的作品中,她挑选的是一件海军蓝背带礼服,来自他以赫尔穆特·牛顿(Helmut Newton)为灵感而设计的那个系列。“开幕式”(Opening Ceremony)品牌的设计师温贝托·梁 (Humberto Leon)和卡罗尔·李(Carol Lim)的作品中,她选择的是他们与Robert Clergerie和Timberland等品牌合作的作品。

The point, Ms. Ping noted, was not to illustrate the similarities between Asian-American designers, but their range.

玛丽·平指出,重点不在于显示亚裔美国设计师的相似之处,而在于他们的不同之处。

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