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更新时间:2016-6-9 11:27:23 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

My Look, My Ego, My Brand

They perch along the runways like birds on a wire, each with vivid markings: the celebrity editors Carine Roitfeld, working her swag of dusky hair, kohled eyes and killer stilettos, and Grace Coddington, her flame-colored mane framing her face like a cloud; and the photographer Terry Richardson, his downward-drooping mustache lending him the look of a ’70s porn king.

他们排坐在秀台旁边,如同驻足在电线上的鸟儿。每个人都有着鲜明的标记:明星级编辑卡琳·洛菲德(Carine Roitfeld)在拨弄着她那披散着的暗黑色长发,眼眶画了一圈黑眼线,脚下穿着充满杀伤力的细高跟鞋;而格蕾斯·科丁顿(Grace Coddington)那火红色的长发则如云雾般笼罩着她的脸;还有摄影师泰利·理查森(Terry Richardson),他的八字胡让他颇有点70年代情色大王的样子。

And you won’t need a field guide to pick out professional show-offs like André Leon Talley, descending on the catwalks with a great sweep of his stole; or the fashion scribe Lynn Yeager tricked out like a Kewpie, all cupid’s-bow lips, voluminous skirts and coin-dot spots of rouge on her cheeks; or, in their midst, Anna Wintour, Vogue’s vixenish chieftain, ducking, as the house lights fade, behind precision-sheared bangs and dark glasses.

而你不需要任何现场提示,就能轻易找到那些专业作秀人士,比如安德烈·莱昂·塔利(André Leon Talley),披着一袭华丽披肩降临到秀台上;又如时尚记者琳恩·耶格(Lynn Yeager),装扮得像一个丘比娃娃,拥有如丘比特之弓一般的唇形,穿着蓬松的裙子,脸颊抹着金币大小的腮红;又如安娜·温图尔(Anna Wintour),《Vogue》杂志泼辣的女魔头,当秀场灯光渐暗,她便躲到了她那修剪得丝毫不差的刘海和墨镜的后面。

Members of fashion’s old guard, each has mastered the art of visual self-branding, marketers’ pet coinage for the cultivation of a personal style as quirky, distinctive and easy to read as a box of Cheerios on a grocer’s shelf.


“The front row of any show in any city is a billboard,” said Tom Julian, a branding consultant and director of strategic business development for the Doneger Group, a trend forecasting firm in New York. If such prominent placement once functioned as a showcase for outsize personalities — fashion originals like the fastidiously lacquered Diana Vreeland or the much mythologized Carrie Donovan, flaunting spectacles the size of television screens — it has lately morphed, in Mr. Julian’s view, into a platform on which stylists, music and film and reality-TV personalities and assorted hangers-on can strut their maverick style.

“任何一个城市的秀场最前排都是一块展示板,”汤姆·朱利安(Tom Julian)这样说道,他是纽约潮流趋势预测公司多尼戈尔集团(Doneger Group)的策略性商业发展总监兼品牌营销顾问。这种将他们安排在显要位置上的做法,曾经是为了展示非同凡响的个人风格——比如把自己装点得一丝不苟的戴安娜·弗里兰(Diana Vreeland),或者极具传奇色彩的嘉莉·多诺万(Carrie Donovan)。这些时尚界的创新人士总能在并不算大的电视屏幕上展现出万千风采。朱利安认为,秀场前排在最近已经演变成了一个平台,让造型师和音乐、电影、电视真人秀名人以及各色人等可以豪迈地展示自己无门无派的格调。

“These people are creating alter egos,” said Ed Burstell, the managing director of the fashion emporium Liberty of London.

“这些人是在塑造另一个自我,”伦敦时尚百货商场利伯提百货(Liberty of London)的总经理艾德·贝尔斯特尔(Ed Burstell)说。

More like avatars, really, second selves fashioned purely for public consumption. Seemingly they are manifesting an innate and highly curated sense of style. But watch, Mr. Burstell said. “They go over their look with military precision, especially during Fashion Week.”


Who can fault them if they embrace the occasion as a continuous photo op? An era with video streaming, Instagram, Tumblr and Vine has only redoubled the impact of an exotically eye-catching look, providing the chance to raise a lackluster profile and even, in the case of the lucky few, to foster a fledgling career.


Small wonder, then, that thriving alongside confirmed eccentrics is a new breed of self-promoters: editors, stylists and bloggers fanning out their plumage in the hope, it would seem, that a bit of canny self-packaging will secure them a place in fashion’s front ranks.


“Fashion’s one big game of status where recognition is everything,” said Daniel Saynt, a founder of Socialyte, a year-old agency that negotiates deals between tastemakers and brands. Having a recognizable image seals the impression that you may be worth talking to, or talking about, Mr. Saynt said, “even if nobody actually knows who you are.”

“时尚是一场身份地位的盛大游戏,在这里,知名度就是一切,”丹尼尔·塞因特(Daniel Saynt)说。他是“社交名流”(Socialyte)机构的创办人,这是一家刚成立一年的代理机构,为潮流先锋人士和品牌之间的合作洽谈。塞因特说,拥有一个具有辨识度的形象能保证你给人一个印象,让人觉得值得与你谈一谈,或者说你值得被谈论,“哪怕可能其实没有人知道你是谁。”

For every Jenna Lyons, the studiedly geeky executive creative director of J. Crew, a modern-day peacock has alighted: young, consummately Web savvy and unabashedly ambitious.

每一个詹娜·莱恩兹(Jenna Lyons,J. Crew品牌的那个故意显得很极客的执行创意总监)的背后,都栖息着一只现代孔雀:年轻,极度善于利用网络,并且毫不掩饰自己的野心。

“These people have found footing in the industry by making a bold statement,” Mr. Saynt said, a case in point being the model Alice Dellal, whose half-razed hair has made her a standout in a forest of competitors.

“这些人都是通过大胆表现在这个行业找到立足之地的,”塞因特说,一个典型例子就是模特儿爱丽丝·德拉尔(Alice Dellal),她剃掉一边的头发让她在众多竞争者当中脱颖而出。

There is, as well, a handful of bloggers like Susie Lau of Style Bubble, instantly identifiable by her high-contrast color and print combinations and her pert topknot, and the blogging superstar Leandra Medine, whose sassy mélange of high-crown fur hats and football jerseys, harem pants and clogs is the visual extension of her wryly irreverent posts on Man Repeller.

此外还有几个博主,比如博客“Style Bubble”(时尚泡泡)的博主苏茜·刘(Susie Lau),她身上对比强烈的色彩和花纹组合以及俏皮的头饰让人一眼就能认出她来,还有博客界的超级明星利安德拉·梅丁(Leandra Medine),她用皮毛高帽、足球队服、哈伦裤以及木屐制造出的调皮搭配,正是她在自己的博客“Man Repeller”(反男士)上那些刻薄的讽刺文章在视觉上的延伸。

It’s not by chance that Ms. Medine has secured coveted front-row seats at shows like Phillip Lim, Thakoon and Reed Krakoff. The industry, she wrote on her blog this week, “has made room for amateur groupies to carve out their own stud-laden paths.” Her own style is not so much a bid for attention as the untrammeled expression of her personality, she said in an interview.

梅丁能在Phillip Lim、Thakoon和Reed Krakoff等品牌的时装秀上安然得到羡煞旁人的前排席位并非偶然,本周她在博客上写道,这个产业“已经为业余的果儿们创造了空间,去开辟她们满布铆钉的星途。”她在一次采访中说,她的自我风格并不只是为了吸引别人的注意,而更多是在不拘一格地表达她的个性。

“In the beginning, I was very strategic about the way I dressed,” she said. “I thought to be noticed that I needed to wear a million bracelets and hold the coolest clutch that I own.”


Now she is more casual, but her style tends to echo an online voice she describes as “a little bit raw, new and unedited.”


“I’m all about the disconnect,” she said. “If I’m wearing a plaid shirt and ripped jeans, I will wear a satin stiletto.”


A more recent fixture on fashion’s front lines is Andy Torres, who has parlayed her blog, Style Scrapbook, into a flourishing television career as a judge on “Elle México Diseña,” a fashion competition broadcast on E! Entertainment. Her blog, a hit with Latinas, began attracting serious notice only after she started posting her own image, said Ms. Torres, who has carved out a profile by assembling clashing patterns and eye-searing graphic accents.

一个比较近期进入时装秀前排的人物是安迪·托雷斯(Andy Torres),她从她的博客“Style Scrapbook”(时尚剪贴本)起步,进而成为E! Entertainment频道的时装比赛节目“Elle México Diseña”的评委,开始了风生水起的电视生涯。据托雷斯女士说,她深受拉丁裔女性追捧的博客,也只是在她开始贴自己的照片之后才真正受到关注。她的着装风格是将彼此冲击的图案组合在一起,充满扎眼的调性。

“Nothing I wear ever matches,” she said, “but that’s what works for me.”


Mary Alice Haney, a celebrity stylist, often counsels clients (who have included Jennifer Garner, Kate Bosworth and Jessica Biel) that putting together a red-carpet-worthy look is not just about throwing on an outfit. “It’s about deciding on an image that you want to convey,” she said.

著名造型师玛丽·艾莉丝·哈妮(Mary Alice Haney)经常忠告她的客户(包括詹妮弗·加纳[Jennifer Garner]、凯特·波茨沃斯[Kate Bosworth]和杰茜卡·贝尔[Jessica Biel]等人),要配搭出红地毯级别的打扮,不仅仅是套上一件什么衣裳那么简单。“而是在于要知道你想要展示一个什么样的形象,”她说。

Her own look is calculatedly steamy, said Ms. Haney, who makes a near fetish of wearing plunging necklines and provocative slits, though she tones down the fireworks for Fashion Week.


“I’m on the higher end of sexy,” she said. “I wear YSL, Gucci and Tom Ford. When you see Mary Alice, you know you will be getting something high quality and luxurious but still fun.”

“我的定位是高端的性感,”她说,“我穿伊夫·圣罗兰(YSL)、古驰(Gucci)和汤姆·福特(Tom Ford)。当你一见到玛丽·艾莉丝,你就知道你将看到的是一些高质量、奢华但又性味盎然的东西。”

A visually distinctive look, she knows, can lead to a potentially lucrative sideline — most recently, in her case, as the producer and host of the Style Network show “Celebrity Closet Confidential.”

她知道,视觉上鲜明的装扮有可能会带来潜在的赚钱副业——最近,她就成为了“时尚频道”(Style Network)的电视节目“明星私密衣橱”(Celebrity Closet Confidential)的制作人兼主持人。

Front-row fixtures like Ms. Roitfeld and, more recently, Ms. Medine (who through her blog has created a direct line to consumers) are among the most hotly courted, said Gregory Littley, the director of strategy at Iced Media, a youth-oriented branding company in New York. Last year Ms. Roitfeld added to her proliferating fashion credits a deal with MAC cosmetics to introduce a limited-edition makeup line, a palette of the tawny colors like those she wears. Around the same time, Ms. Medine agreed to appear in a fall ad campaign for Uniqlo.

纽约一家针对年轻人市场的品牌营销公司“冰封传媒”(Iced Media)的策略总监格雷戈里·里特利(Gregory Littley)说,像洛菲德以及比较近期的梅丁(她通过博客已经与消费者建立了直接的联系)等时尚界前排人物,属于当前最被热烈追捧的那批人物。去年,洛菲德在她极速膨胀的时尚业界功绩上又多加了一份与魅可(MAC)化妆品达成的协议,合作引进一个限量版化妆品系列——一套与她现在肤色相似的茶色色系。几乎也在同一时间,梅丁答应在优衣库(Uniqlo)的一个秋季广告中出镜。

Mr. Littley is also keeping his eye on Chiara Ferragni, known for her bilingual blog, the Blonde Salad, but more remarked on for her look, a striking composite of swingy blond hair, painted-on cat eyes and, almost invariably, a leopard-print frock. Like many of her peers in the blogosphere, Ms. Ferragni has become a master of visually conspicuous self-marketing. Only last week her finely calibrated feline look prompted the hair-care brand Redken to name her its global ambassador.

里特利也在密切关注着琪亚拉·法拉格尼(Chiara Ferragni)。她最为人所知的是她的双语博客“the Blonde Salad”(金发沙拉),但更为人们所谈论的是她令人心头一震的打扮:飘逸的金发,涂画出来的猫眼,还有几乎从不例外的豹纹长外套。和她很多博客界的同辈们一样,法拉格尼已经变成了外表出众的自我营销大师。就在上个星期,她描画精致的猫脸妆容,使得头发护理品牌列德肯(Redken)将她指定为全球代言人。

All good. But flamboyance in this industry goes only so far. Long-established editors, as the Vogue editor Hamish Bowles once noted, have grown more self-effacing, the best-known among them dispensing with frippery. Sometimes, insiders will tell you, less says more.

一切看起来很好。不过在这个行业中,华丽的外表也就只能到这个程度了。就像《Vogue》杂志的编辑哈密什·博尔斯(Hamish Bowles)曾经说的,那些成名多年的编辑已经变得不再那么爱出风头了,当中最出名的那些已经褪去了浮华的修饰。有时候,内行人会告诉你,越简单才越有内容。

For Mr. Burstell, the Liberty managing director, close-cropped hair and pastel scarves are more than enough to set him apart from the herd.


“A reporter once told me, ‘Ed, you really know how to work a scarf,’ and for me that was it,” Mr. Burstell recalled with a laugh. “I haven’t taken a scarf off in years.”