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香奈儿古巴时装秀

更新时间:2016-5-8 8:54:43 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

Chanel Cruises Into Havana, Showcasing Style and Questions
香奈儿古巴时装秀

After President Obama and the Rolling Stones: Chanel. On Tuesday, just days after the first American cruise ship in almost 40 years docked at the Havana pier, the French brand became the first European fashion house since Castro seized power in 1959 to stage a show in Cuba.

继奥巴马总统和滚石乐队(Rolling Stones)之后,香奈儿(Chanel)在古巴亮相。周二,距离近40年来第一艘美国邮轮驶入哈瓦那港仅数日,这个法国品牌成为1959年卡斯特罗(Castro)掌权后,第一个在古巴举办时装秀的欧洲时装公司。

The runway event kicked off both the official cruise collection season, which stretches to mid-June and involves a messy mix of small presentations, designer chats and a few extravaganzas à la Chanel (still to come: Louis Vuitton in Rio, Gucci at Westminster Abbey, Dior in Blenheim Palace, in Oxfordshire, England) but also a potential — still mostly potential at the moment — new relationship between the island nation and the style set. The connection might finally replace ye olde clichéd Cuba, with its romanticized decrepitude, sorbet shades and old convertibles, with something a little grittier and more realistic in the designer mind.

这场时装秀不仅正式开启度假系列季——系列季将持续至6月中旬,包括小型时装秀、设计师访谈,以及几场有关香奈儿的华丽演出(即将举办时装秀的还有:路易威登在里约热内卢;古驰在威斯敏斯特教堂[Westminster Abbey];迪奥在英国牛津郡布莱尼姆宫[Blenheim Palace])——而且有可能(目前依然主要是一种可能)开启古巴这个岛国和时尚界的新关系。这种关系可能最终以设计师角度的、更真实、更现实的事物,取代人们对古巴陈旧的固有观念:被浪漫化的老朽,鲜艳的冰糕色彩,以及老式折蓬轿车。

Although perhaps not quite yet, judging by Chanel.

不过,从香奈儿的情况看,这也许还远未能实现。

Held on the Paseo del Prado, Havana’s main thoroughfare, in front of approximately 600 imported guests, including customers, editors (though not me; I watched the show via live stream) and celebrities (Gisele Bündchen, Vanessa Paradis, Tilda Swinton, Vin Diesel), as well as various residents who could be seen hanging over the balconies of apartment buildings lining the avenue, and watching from the street, the show featured the designer Karl Lagerfeld’s signature mixture of muchness: 86 looks, including a few men’s wear styles, all of which ranged from the elaborate to the everyday, with a bathing suit thrown in for good measure.

这场时装秀在哈瓦那的主干道普拉多大街(Paseo del Prado)上举行,面对着约600名从国外赶来的嘉宾,包括顾客、编辑(不过不包括我,我通过流媒体直播观看了时装秀)和名人(比如,吉塞勒·邦辰[Gisele Bündchen]、瓦妮莎·帕拉迪斯[Vanessa Paradis]、蒂尔达·斯温顿[Tilda Swinton]和维恩·迪塞尔[Vin Diesel])以及很多当地居民——他们在大街两旁的公寓楼阳台上观看或者在大街上观看。这场时装秀包括设计师卡尔·拉格菲尔德(Karl Lagerfeld)标志性的丰富服装混合,共计86个造型——其中有几个男装造型——既有精致服装,也有日常服装,还额外奉上一款泳装。

There were wide-legged pinstriped men’s trousers under relaxed bouclé jackets and sheer calf-length organza guayabera shirt dresses in shades of gray with strategically placed pockets. Leaves of the Monstera deliciosa plant wafted from the full calf-length skirts along with a whiff of Hemingway. There were army green short suits with brass-buttoned shirts finished in macramé fringe, and striped, body-hugging knits and picnic plaid dresses. There were light-as-air white crocheted lace dresses and sparkling pastel sequined party frocks with puffed whipped-cream sleeves.

宽腿细条纹男式裤搭配休闲的毛圈上衣。长及小腿的灰色透明硬纱衬衫式连衣裙上巧妙地设计了一些口袋。龟背竹叶子花纹飘扬在长及腿肚的裙子上,带有一丝海明威(Hemingway)的气息。军绿色短西服搭配流苏边铜扣衬衫。紧身条纹针织衫搭配野餐格子布连衣裙。还有轻盈的白色蕾丝钩织连衣裙以及装饰有淡色亮片和蓬松奶油色袖子的派对连衣裙。

Oh, and there were panama hats and berets (very Chanel, very Che) and a male model carrying a Cuban cigar. Also silk prints of 1950s Cadillacs and Oldsmobiles in gumdrop shades and souvenir T-shirts emblazoned with the words “Coco Cuba,” which were kind of cheerfully tongue-in-cheek but also teetered uncomfortably on the verge of let-them-eat-cake-dom. Especially at the end when a Cuban band accompanied Mr. Lagerfeld and his host of dancing models down the avenue to the lights of a few hundred iPhones as all of the guests started madly using Instagram (or Snapchat or whatever) to record the moment. Check out the video.

哦,还有巴拿马帽和贝雷帽(极具香奈儿特色,极具切·格瓦拉风格),还有一位男模特叼着一根古巴雪茄。还有20世纪50年代的凯迪拉克轿车(Cadillac)和奥兹莫比尔轿车(Oldsmobile)的糖果色丝网印花,以及带有“椰子古巴”(Coco Cuba)纹章的纪念T恤——它像是在欢乐地半开玩笑,但也有点“让他们吃蛋糕”的意味(据说,法国的一位王妃听说农民没有面包吃,就说,那就让他们吃蛋糕吧——译注)。尤其是到最后,拉格菲尔德和跳着舞的模特们在一支古巴乐队的伴奏下沿着大街走,数百个iPhone在给他们拍照,因为所有的宾客都开始疯狂地用Instagram(或Snapchat什么的)记录这个时刻。去看看那个视频吧。

After all, the average wage in Cuba is still around $25 a month. As ABC News pointed out, the show “was a startling sight in a country officially dedicated to social equality and the rejection of material wealth.” Before the event, Yoani Sánchez, a Cuban journalist, posted on Twitter numerous pictures of the security cordon around the avenue.

毕竟,古巴的平均工资依然是每月25美元左右。就像ABC新闻(ABC News)指出的,这场时装秀“对这个官方上追求社会平等、排斥物质财富的国家来说是令人吃惊的景象”。时装秀开始前,古巴记者约安尼·桑切(Yoani Sánchez)在Twitter上发了很多场地周围警戒线的照片。

None of this has escaped Chanel, which has no official history with Cuba — it was not an inspiration for Coco or anything — and has been quick to note that showing there was simply a creative decision, inspired by Cuba’s “cultural richness.” All reports about the event have noted the “warmth” with which it was received, as Sarah Mower wrote on Vogue.com. Beforehand, Emilio Estefan, the Cuban-American musician, told New York magazine’s The Cut that he approved of Chanel’s initiative because “the more people that go there and show them the free world, that’s great for the Cuban people.”

这些都没逃过香奈儿的注意——该品牌与古巴没有渊源,它不是以椰子为灵感——它很快指出,在那里举办时装秀只是创意决定,是受到古巴“文化丰富性”的启发。就像萨拉·莫厄尔(Sarah Mower)在Vogue.com网站上写的,关于这场活动的所有报道都指出,它受到“热情接纳”。时装秀举办前,古巴裔美国音乐人埃米利奥·埃斯特凡(Emilio Estefan)在接受《纽约》杂志(New York)The Cut栏目采访时说,他赞赏香奈儿的这场活动,因为“更多人到那里展示自由世界的情况对古巴人民很有益”。

There is no question that simply holding such an event in Havana brings both global attention and real investment to the city. It is expensive to put on such a large show, especially because the jaunt included dinners, parties, sightseeing — even a “Cuba Revolution” tour (ahem). That is a good thing. Who is to say those benefits do not far outweigh the moral ickiness of promoting very expensive clothes for the very few in a country where no one can buy such clothes? (Bruno Pavlovsky, Chanel’s president of fashion, says the brand has “zero” business in Cuba.) It is easy to get on a high horse from afar. And perhaps the simple act of forcing the issue, of being in Havana and being faced with the contemporary truth of the country instead of its appropriated image, is the best way to start grappling with it.

毫无疑问,在哈瓦那举办这样的活动本身就能引起全球关注,给这座城市带来真正的投资。举办这样的大型时装秀非常昂贵,尤其是考虑到要组织宴会、派对和观光——甚至包括来一场“古巴革命”之旅(呃哼)。那是好事。谁能说这些益处没有远远盖过道德上的多愁善感:说什么这是在一个几乎无人能买得起此类服装的国家推广非常昂贵的衣服(香奈儿的时装总裁布鲁诺·帕夫洛夫斯基[Bruno Pavlovsky]说,该品牌在古巴没有任何生意)。不要再高高在上地指责别人了。也许促成这一活动,前往哈瓦那,亲眼目睹这个国家的现实(而非它被扭曲的形象)才是扭转局面的最佳办法。

It’s probably no accident that among the candy colors on the runway, Mr. Lagerfeld consciously included many shades of gray.

拉格菲尔德在秀台上的糖果色中故意加入很多灰色调,很可能不是巧合。

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