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36小时玩转香港

更新时间:2016-4-17 10:40:07 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

36 Hours in Hong Kong
36小时玩转香港

As impressive as Hong Kong’s skyline is, the city never seems to stop building. Case in point: the rapid expansion of the rail system. The MTR’s Island Line was extended to the neighborhood of Kennedy Town at the end of 2014, sparking a development boom on the once-quiet western side of the city. Several other projects are also on the way, including an express link to the mainland border. With all this attention on infrastructure, though, Hong Kong hasn’t sacrificed its soul. It remains one of Asia’s most passionately creative cities, a playground for artists and designers, chefs and entrepreneurs. Kowloon, the congested district opposite Hong Kong Island, for instance, is getting a makeover as the sprawling West Kowloon Cultural District begins opening over the next few years, with M+ (a museum for “visual culture”) as the focal point. While other newly rich Chinese cities vie for tourist dollars, it is cultural endeavors like this that will keep Hong Kong in the spotlight — and as confident as ever.

尽管香港已经拥有傲人的城市天际线,它却似乎从未停止过继续建设的步伐。其铁路系统的快速扩张就是一个例子。2014年底,港铁的港岛线扩展到坚尼地城附近,在曾经沉寂的城西掀起一个兴建发展的热潮。还有其他几个项目也正在筹划之中,其中之一是直通大陆边境的铁路快线。但是,所有这些轰轰烈烈的基础建设并没有让香港失去它的灵魂,它依然是亚洲最热情的创意城市,是艺术家、设计师、厨师和企业家大展身手的地方。举例来说,香港岛对面拥挤不堪的九龙区正在历经一场改头换面的变革。宽广的西九文化区将在近几年内开放,而M+博物馆(一个以“视觉文化”为主题的博物馆)将成为其中心。目前,中国其他新富城市纷纷加入吸引旅游者的竞赛之中,正是这些在文化方面的努力,使香港得以充满信心,一如既往地成为世界瞩目的中心。

A street in the Central District.
中心区的大街。

Friday

周五

1 3 p.m. Arts Revival

1. 艺术的兴盛,3 pm

Hong Kong’s art scene is booming, thanks to the recent arrival of big-name international galleries and the Art Basel Hong Kong fair, not to mention the city’s record-shattering art auctions, one involving the Chinese collector Liu Yiqian’s purchase of a Ming dynasty wall hanging for $45 million in 2014. It’s not all about the cash, though. A more bohemian cultural experience can be found in the gritty neighborhood of Wong Chuk Hang, where galleries and studios have been sprouting up in old industrial lofts in recent years. Head first to the nonprofit Spring Workshop, which hosts frequent exhibitions, performances and art talks, and even has its own artist residency program. Down the street, the Blindspot Gallery exhibits photographic works in a renovated industrial laundry facility, while Beijing-based Pekin Fine Arts focuses on emerging Asian artists. The crumbling warehouses and old steel elevators are part of the charm, but gentrification is sure to pick up once the new South Island MTR line opens in late 2016.

当前香港的艺术生活正值兴盛之时。巴塞尔艺术展在香港举行,国际著名画廊纷至沓来。在这里举办的艺术品拍卖会屡屡打破记录,其中包括中国收藏家刘益谦在2014年出价4500万美元买下的明永乐御制刺绣唐卡。但是钱并不能说明一切。在粗陋的黄竹坑区,你可以领受到另一种前卫不羁的文化体验。近年来,在这里的一些老旧工业厂房里,各种画廊和工作室如雨后春笋一般频频出现。你可以先看看非营利组织Spring工作室(Spring Workshop),那里经常举办各种展览、表演和艺术讲座,还有自己的驻场艺术家。再往深走,你会看到刺点画廊(Blindspot Gallery)。它由一家工业洗衣房改建而成,以展出摄影作品为主。另外一家是总部在北京的北京艺门画廊,侧重于展示亚洲新锐艺术家的作品。正是那些摇摇欲坠的厂房和老旧的钢制电梯,构成了这里独特的魅力。然而,一旦2016年下半年港铁新的南港岛线开通,这一地区将不可避免地城市化而失去其独有风格。

2 6:30 p.m. Take a Bao

2. 吃个包子,6:30 PM

What Momofuku’s David Chang has done for the steamed pork bun (a.k.a. bao) in New York, the rising chef May Chow is emulating at her Little Bao restaurant in Hong Kong, which still has lines forming shortly after its 6 p.m. nightly opening more than two years after launching. (No reservations.) Ms. Chow’s intimate restaurant has an American diner feel (only stools and counters for seats), with a clever fusion of Western and Asian cuisines. The truffle fries (98 Hong Kong dollars, about $12.60), for instance, come topped with shiitake tempeh, truffle mayonnaise and pickled daikon, while the fried chicken bao (78 dollars) is flavored with mouth-numbing Sichuan mayo and Chinese black vinegar glaze. Bao even appear on the dessert menu, deep-fried like doughnuts to make a heavenly green tea ice cream sandwich (48 dollars).

在香港,新锐大厨周梅(May Chow)的小包包(Little Bao),与纽约戴维·张(David Chang)的Momofuku(店名意为“幸运的桃子”,米其林二星餐厅,以亚洲和西方饮食相结合的风格闻名。——译注)可以媲美。它已经开张两年了,然而每晚六点开门后不久,等位的人还是会很快排成长龙。(这里不接受定位。)周女士的贴心小餐馆有一种美式餐厅的感觉,座位只有凳子和火车座。它巧妙融合了西方和亚洲的美食。例如,松露薯条(98港元,约合12.60美元)上面洒着的是香菇豆豉、黑松露沙拉酱和腌萝卜丁,而炸鸡堡(78港元)则以四川辣酱和中国黑醋调味。甚至在甜品单里,也有像炸甜甜圈一样的炸包包,做成绿茶冰淇淋三明治(48港元),简直是人间美味。

3 9:30 p.m. Quirky Lounge

3. 离奇古怪的音乐吧,9:30 PM

Lan Kwai Fong is party central after a long workweek — music pumps from open-air bars, and the streets rapidly fill with beer-drinking bankers, tourists and the occasional bachelorette party. It’s certainly not for everyone. But removed from the mayhem on the second floor of a commercial building is a cozier place for a nightcap — Orange Peel, the latest venture by the interior designer Joyce Peng following the closure of her popular bar, Joyce Is Not Here, a hangout for artists and musicians, in 2013. Ms. Peng keeps things quirky with her drinks list — the “Joyce Is Here” cocktail, for instance, is a mix of tequila, watermelon and prosecco (68 Hong Kong dollars) — as well as the entertainment, which spans the musical spectrum from jazz to Latin to rock, and includes a weekly poetry night.

兰桂坊是周末社交聚会中心。漫长的一周工作结束之后,露天酒吧奏响着音乐,街上到处是喝酒的银行家、游客和单身男女。当然,也许并非每个人都会喜欢这种热闹。但在一座商业大厦的二楼,有一个远离喧嚣,轻松舒适的喝晚茶的地方:橙皮音乐吧(Orange Peel)。它的老板是室内设计师乔伊斯·彭(Joyce Peng)。彭女士原先经营了一家大受欢迎的酒吧,为艺术家和音乐家提供聚会场所,名叫“乔伊斯不在家”(Joyce Is Not Here)。2013年,这家酒吧关张,彭女士又开办了橙皮音乐吧。她的酒单上有各种稀奇古怪的名字,比如“乔伊斯来了”(Joyce Is Here),是一种由龙舌兰酒、西瓜汁和葡萄汁混合而成的鸡尾酒(68港元)。这里的娱乐节目也不落俗套,音乐从爵士乐到拉丁到摇滚,甚至还包括每周一次的诗歌之夜。

Saturday

周六

4 8 a.m. Waking With the Dragon

4. 在龙脊上远足,8 AM

Odd as it may seem, this skyscraper-studded city is a hiker’s paradise. (And we’re not talking about the steep staircases in Central.) One of the most accessible hikes to the bustling city center is the Dragon’s Back — a trail that follows an undulating ridge on the southern end of Hong Kong Island much like, well, walking on a dragon’s back. While there are longer, more arduous climbs elsewhere in the city for the serious hiker, the five-mile Dragon’s Back hike affords spectacular views of fishing villages, dinghy-filled bays and pristine beaches — and you’ll be back in plenty of time for lunch. The start is near To Tei Wan village on Shek O Road; from Tai Long Wan beach at the end, there are buses back to civilization.

说起来也许有些奇怪,这个摩天大楼云集的城市也是个登山者的天堂。(我们这里说的可不是中环那些陡峭的楼梯。)从繁华的市中心最容易去到的远足山径是龙脊。它是香港岛南端的一条逶迤起伏的山脊,走在上面,仿佛走在一条大龙的背脊之上。香港还有其他几条更长、更难行的远足路径,是为那些喜欢比较有挑战性的登山者而准备的。但龙脊这五英里长的远足径却能让你欣赏到壮美的山海景色。沿途远眺,美丽的渔村、小艇出没的海湾、纯净的沙滩,尽收眼底。远足归来,你仍然有充裕的时间午餐。远足径始于土地湾村石澳道附近;终于大浪湾海滩。在那里你可以乘坐公共汽车回到文明世界。

5 11:30 a.m. Designer Dim Sum

5. 充满设计氛围的早茶,11:30 AM

It’s easy to see why Duddell’s is one of the city’s most in-demand lunchtime spots — it has prime real estate above Shanghai Tang smack in the middle of Central, a high-polish design courtesy of Ilse Crawford and a two-Michelin star kitchen. While dinners can get pricey, there’s a more reasonable all-you-can-eat dim sum brunch on weekends (from 480 Hong Kong dollars a person) in the second-floor lounge — a casual space with mismatched designer chairs, Turkish rugs, art-filled walls and a showstopper of an outdoor terrace. The rotating menu reflects the dressed-up Cantonese dining approach, mixing classics like flaky baked barbecue pork puffs with more decadent options such as mushroom and black truffle dumplings. Service is crisp and attentive.

都爹利会馆是香港最有人气的午餐地点。这并不奇怪——它是一家米其林二星餐厅,位居中环上海滩旗舰店(Shanghai Tang)之上的最优地段,并且由伊尔斯·克劳福德(Ilse Crawford,英国知名空间设计师,Elle Decoration创刊编辑。——译注)精心设计打造。晚餐价位不菲,但它在二楼提供周末自助早茶餐,其价格还是蛮近人情的(每人480港元起)。二楼餐厅有风格各异的座椅,土耳其地毯,墙上挂满各种艺术品,室外的阳台更是引人注目。几天一换的菜单反映了一种改良的粤菜风格。这里有传统的经典菜,例如蓬松酥脆的蜜汁叉烧包,也有更糜软可口的菜点,比如蘑菇松露饺。服务很快捷迅速,也很周到贴心。

6 1 p.m. Indie Heaven

6. 独立设计师的天堂,1 PM

When it comes to shopping, Hong Kong is known for its electronics, luxury goods and, for the mainland Chinese, infant formula. Now, you can add good design to that list. Two years ago, a 1950s complex that once served as the city’s “Police Married Quarters” was reopened as PMQ, a hub for independent designers and other creative types. Open Quote (Shop No. S401) has a well-curated selection of cards, CDs and books by local authors, as well as rotating art exhibitions. Elsewhere, Smith & Norbu (S404) makes bespoke eyewear from buffalo and yak horns, Soil (S307) stocks colorful lacquerware from a Myanmar studio, and Good Design Store (H401) specializes in everything Japanese, from porcelain sake cups to tenugui towels. When you need to recharge, there are plenty of well-placed cafes with views of the central courtyard.

说到购物,香港以其电子产品和奢侈品而闻名,当然对大陆人来说,还包括婴儿奶粉。而今天,你的购物清单上还可以加上设计精品。两年前,创意中心PMQ元创方在这里开幕,目的是给香港的独立设计师和其他创意活动提供一个空间。元创方的前身为上一世纪五十年代的“已婚警察宿舍”。在那里,概念店Open Quote(店号s401)精心提供各种本地作家制作的贺卡、书籍和光盘,并不时举办艺术展览。在Smith & Norbu(S404)你可以定制由水牛或牦牛角为材料的眼镜;土壤文创(Soil)(S307)摆放着来自缅甸工作室的多彩漆器;GOOD DESIGN STORE(h401)则专营日本设计精品,从瓷酒杯到面巾纸都有。如果你逛店逛累了,元创方到处都有小吃餐厅,坐在里面还可以看到大厦中央的庭院景观。

7 3 p.m. Kung Fu Culture

7. 功夫文化,3 PM

Hong Kong has produced plenty of film stars, but few have left as indelible a mark on the city as Bruce Lee, the martial arts legend. To mark the 40th anniversary of Lee’s untimely death at 32, the Hong Kong Heritage Museum opened an excellent exhibition on his life in 2013, gathering memorabilia from his early years (including footage of his smooth cha-cha dance moves), along with his well-worn punching bags, old training schedules, skintight 1970s sweaters, and the famous yellow tracksuit he wore in “Game of Death,” which Lee was filming when he died. The best transport option is bus 170, which connects directly to Causeway Bay.

香港出了很多电影明星,但很少有人像武侠传奇李小龙(Bruce Lee)那样给这个城市留下不可磨灭的印记。李在32岁时即英年早逝。2013年,为了纪念李小龙去世四十周年,香港文化博物馆开办了一个精彩的展览,介绍他的生平。展览里收集了他早年生活的纪念品(其中包括他流畅自如的恰恰舞镜头),以及他用过的破旧沙袋、往时的培训计划、70年代式样的紧身毛衣,还有那件著名的黄色运动服。李小龙正是穿着它在拍摄《死亡游戏》时不幸猝死。去看这个展览,最好是乘坐公交车,170路可以直接把你送到铜锣湾。

8 8 p.m. Dinner With a D.J.

8. 舞会晚餐,8 PM

When Cantonese pop songs start pumping from giant speakers, and the owner of the restaurant glides by your table doing the moonwalk in white rubber boots, you know you haven’t walked into a typical dai pai dong, the city’s once-ubiquitous, low-budget Cantonese food halls. Tung Po is traditional in a sense — diners crowd around small tables on stools, sipping beer from small bowls and sharing plates of garlic-roasted chicken (450 Hong Kong dollars) and deep-fried prawns coated in salted duck yolk (market price, usually from 533 dollars per kilogram). But when the gregarious owner Robby Cheung turns up the volume, the place suddenly morphs into a club, and the fashionable crowd starts dancing around the tables, toasting bowls of beer. This party is popular, so book ahead.

当粤语流行歌曲开始从巨大的音箱中传出,餐厅主人脚穿白色橡胶靴,踩着月球步从你餐桌边滑过,这时你该知道,你走进的这家东宝小馆,可不是一家普通的,那种无处不在、低档便宜的粤菜大排档。在某种意义上,东宝小馆的确是很传统的。用餐的食客围小桌而坐,喝着小碗啤酒,大家一起分享那些大盘的风沙鸡(450港元)和黄金虾(时价,通常每公斤533港元起)。但是,当热爱交际的餐馆主人罗比·常(Robby Cheung)把音乐音量调大,整个餐馆突然之间就变成一个夜总会俱乐部,时尚的人群开始在桌边舞动,端起啤酒相互祝酒。这个晚会很火,如果你想要参加的话,最好提前预订。

9 10 p.m. Gin Pong

9. 乒乓酒家,10 PM

The red neon Chinese characters behind the bar at Ping Pong 129 say, “Keep your body fit,” but smoothies and health elixirs aren’t served here — gin is the drink of choice. Opened in a former Ping-Pong club in the trendy Sai Ying Pun neighborhood, the cavernous space is stocked with some 120 types of gin — many from craft distilleries in the owner Juan Martínez Gregorio’s native Spain, such as Xoriguer, a 300-year-old operation on the island of Menorca (140 Hong Kong dollars). Although there are no tables for pick-up games of Ping-Pong, the décor features elements from the venue’s former life, such as the original red street-side door and retro aluminum window frames, along with large-scale works by local artists, including Hong Kong’s most well-known graffiti artist, Tsang Tsou-Choi, a.k.a. the King of Kowloon.

在乒乓冰室这个酒家的吧台后面,红色的霓虹灯打出了这样的字样:“锻炼身体”。但是,你在这里可买不到冰沙和保健药酒。这里的饮品选择是杜松子酒。这间前身是家乒乓球俱乐部的酒吧,位于时髦的西营盘,幽深的空间里摆放着120多种杜松子酒(140香港元起)。其中许多酒来自老板胡安·马丁内斯格雷戈里奥的家乡,西班牙的工艺酿酒厂。例如Xoriguer就是梅诺卡岛上一家有300年历史的酒厂。虽然酒吧里再没有乒乓球台,但室内的装修仍然遗留着当年的痕迹,如原装的红色街门和复古的铝合金窗框。室内也充斥着当地艺术家的大型作品,包括香港最著名的涂鸦艺术家曾灶财,又名九龙王的作品。

Sunday

周日

10 10 a.m. Fisherman’s Life

10. 渔民生活,10 AM

Tai O village is about as far as you can get from central Hong Kong — both literally and figuratively. On a remote bay on lush, mountainous Lantau Island, Tai O is one of the last surviving fishing villages in Hong Kong — a relaxing relic of a bygone era, with simple homes on stilts fringing the water and narrow, car-free lanes lined with stalls selling shrimp paste (one of the village’s best-known industries) and all manner of dried seafood. After strolling through town, sit down for seafood fried rice with local shrimp paste ( 98 Hong Kong dollars) at the Tai O Heritage Hotel, a renovated former police station built by the British in 1902 to safeguard Hong Kong’s border with China. It’s here, perched above the waters of the South China Sea, that one can appreciate what Hong Kong was like before its transformation to global commercial center — a sleepy outpost, deeply traditional and dependent on catches from the sea.

在植被葱郁、山峦起伏的大屿山上,一个偏远的海湾里,有着香港最后幸存的渔村之一,大澳。无论从实际距离而言,还是从象征意义而言,大澳都是离香港中环最远的地方。那是一个逝去的年代的遗留。简单的棚屋高架在水边,无法行车的狭窄小道旁,摊贩们贩卖虾酱和各种海产干货(虾酱是村里的最著名的出产之一)。这一切令人轻松惬意。漫步小镇之后,你可以在大澳文物酒店坐下来品尝一下海鲜炒饭和当地的虾酱(98港元)。这家酒店的前身是1902年英国人为了保护香港边界而修建的警署。在这俯瞰南中国海的高地之上,人们才可以真正体会到香港在成为全球商业中心之前的模样——一个沉睡的边远渔村,浸润于传统之中,以海获为生。

Lodging

住宿

Opened last July, the 66-room Tuve Hotel (16 Tsing Fung Street; tuke.hk) is bringing boutique chic to the gentrifying neighborhood of Tin Hau. The design is minimalist, using gray-toned raw materials like concrete, marble, steel and glass, with unique touches like the desk-minibar-in-a-box combo unit to save space. Doubles from HKD 980.

Tuve酒店(清风街16号;tuke.hk)位于日渐贵族化的天后区,去年七月才开张,拥有66间客房,是一个小型典雅的精品酒店。它采用极简设计,原材料全部使用灰色调的混凝土、大理石、玻璃和钢。它有许多风格独特之处,比如为了节省空间而制作的桌上迷你酒吧盒。双人房980港元起。

Conveniently located in Wanchai, the 138-room Hotel Indigo (246 Queen’s Road East; ihg.com/hotelindigo) has a bright, locally inspired décor—goldfish pillows, Chinese lanterns–along with a glass-bottom, rooftop pool cantilevered over the bustling sidewalks 29 floors below. Doubles from HKD 1,400.

港岛英迪格酒店(皇后大道东246号;ihg.com/hotelindigo)位于湾仔,有138间客房。这里有中国传统、风格亮丽的室内装饰——金鱼枕头、中国灯笼,在29层楼顶还有一个无边玻璃底游泳池,一头向外伸出,悬空在底下熙熙攘攘的人行道之上。双人房1400港元起。

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