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七款让你想跳舞的春夏造型

更新时间:2016-4-14 11:08:54 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

7 Spring Fashion Looks That Will Make You Want to Dance
七款让你想跳舞的春夏造型

In Diane von Furstenberg’s fashion video, Karlie Kloss wears a wrap dress in a clashing combination of miniature pink and green blossoms as she poses against an equally pattern-mad backdrop of hearts and flowers and cheetah spots. It’s a giddy mix for sure, but Ms. Kloss, the model-slash-entrepreneur-slash-New York University student, pulls it off with aplomb.

在黛安·冯芙斯汀宝(Diane von Furstenberg)品牌的时装推广视频里,卡莉·克劳斯(Karlie Kloss)穿着一条撞色粉绿碎花裹裙,背景的花纹搭配同样疯狂,是心形、花朵与豹纹的组合。这显然是一个让人眼花缭乱的组合,但克劳斯,这位模特/企业家/纽约大学学生,驾驭起来从容不迫。

“This is me being me,” she says. “Now you be you.”

“这就是我,”她说。“你也要做你自己。”

Not such a tall order, if you consider the wealth of fashion options, many aimed at women with an eye for pleasing dissonance, the kind expressed on runways in the form of crazily inventive, willfully chaotic juxtapositions of color, texture, pattern and shape.

这并非什么离谱的要求,要知道时装有多种丰富的选择,很多都是针对那些偏爱令人愉快的冲撞效果的女性,在秀台上,这种风格表现为疯狂的创新,随心所欲而混乱地搭配色彩、质地、花纹与形状。

Looks with movement and color to brighten up your spring wardrobe.
这种风格表现为疯狂的创新,随心所欲而混乱地搭配色彩、质地、花纹与形状。

There are every-which-way stripes and plaids at Marc Jacobs, artfully mismatched chiffons and brocades at Dries Van Noten, and a Gypsy mashup of swirling motifs at Gucci.

马克·雅克布斯(Marc Jacobs)用各种可能的方法搭配条纹和格子;德赖斯·范诺顿(Dries Van Noten)艺术化地把雪纺和锦缎混搭在一起;古驰(Gucci)组合了各种吉普赛风格的漩涡图案。

Christopher Kane’s multi-toned skirt, a cataract of fringe, is combined on these pages with a caution-yellow Rosie Assoulin off-the-shoulder top; or at Rag & Bone, whose skinny latticework dress is improbably teamed here with a patchwork lace Derek Lam skirt trailing a wispy handkerchief hem.

克里斯托弗·凯恩(Christopher Kane)的多色调裙装上有大量流苏,在本页和罗西·阿苏林(Christopher Kane)的警示牌黄色露肩上衣搭配;还有瑞格布恩(Rag & Bone)的贴身格子裙,里面搭配德里克·林(Derek Lam)的方巾小褶边蕾丝补丁裙。

A closer look at these and other unlikely pairings would seem to argue that the disruptive climate governing everything from politics to technology has infiltrated the world of style — and in particular, the wardrobes of those fashion indies, young or not so young, bent on upending the style world’s most hallowed conventions.

细看这些看似不协调的搭配,仿佛在暗示,那统治着从政治到技术的种种破坏性氛围,如今已经渗透到时尚的世界里来了,特别是那些独立品牌的服装,不管是不是年轻,都在致力于颠覆时尚界那些最为神圣的传统。

“The playfulness and eccentricity we’ve been seeing on the runways seems to be a response to a shift toward individual dressing,” said Rachael Wang, the fashion director of Allure. It underscores the point, Ms. Wang said, “that there are no longer hard and fast rules for what’s ‘in’ or ‘out.’” Instead, she said, “One can find justification for wearing almost anything.”

“我们在秀台上看到的这些戏谑与怪异似乎是对个人着装变化的回应,” 《Allure》的时尚总监瑞秋·王(Rachael Wang)说。王女士说,它强调“不再有‘入时’与‘过时’的铁律。”相反,她说,“大家怎么穿都是正当的。”

It’s a position staked out by fashion’s premier rule-breakers, designers like Mr. Michele, Miuccia Prada and Demna Gvasalia of Vetements and Balenciaga, each an ardent champion of an uncorked self-expression that can be charmingly eccentric, if not downright subversive.

这种状况由时尚界那些先行的规则破坏者们所奠定,诸如亚历桑德罗·米歇尔(Alessandro Michele)、缪西娅·普拉达(Miuccia Prada)以及Vetements和巴黎世家(Balenciaga)的德姆纳·格瓦萨里亚(Demna Gvasalia)等人。他们都热衷于无拘无束的自我表达,他们的作品就算不是一种彻底的颠覆,至少也富于怪异的魅力。

Their madcap experiments with color, texture and form are a testament to the high spirits pervading fashion now. “Like a John Cage symphony or a Joseph Cornell collage,” the fashion scribe and Vogue contributor Lynn Yaeger writes in the recent Bergdorf Goodman style supplement, “these unlikely mélanges can really make the heart sing.”

他们用色彩、质地与外形进行着大胆的实验,表明了如今的时尚界是多么生气勃勃。“就像约翰·凯奇(John Cage)的交响乐或约瑟夫·康奈尔(Joseph Cornell)的拼贴作品,”时尚评论家、《Vogue》杂志撰稿人琳恩·雅尔格(Lynn Yaeger)评论波道夫·古德曼(Bergdorf Goodman)精品店最近的进货风格时说,“这种看似不可能的混搭真的能让人心花怒放。”

There is nothing dour about a Stella McCartney dress, all swingy accordion pleats, shown here with an embroidered silk bomber by Opening Ceremony. Such colorful combinations offer a bracing antidote to the numbing predictability of normcore or the self-conscious rigors of minimalism.

史黛拉·麦卡特尼(Stella McCartney)的裙装也绝不乏味,全都布满了轻盈的风琴褶,这里同带有Opening Ceremony品牌的刺绣丝绸夹克放在一起。这样的色彩组合令人心旷神怡,是针对乏味的“normcore”以及做作严苛的极简主义的一味解毒剂。

Michelle Elie, a former model and the designer of Prim, a collection of jewelry and accessories, said she welcomes a more playful, apparently anarchic approach. “With what goes on in the world around us, and so little that we can control,” she said, “such collections capture a moment of lightness.”

当过模特的米歇尔·艾利(Michelle Elie)如今是珠宝与配饰品牌Prim的设计师,她说自己欢迎更有趣、更混乱的方式。“它在我们周围渐渐流行开来,我们几乎无从控制,”她说,“这种风格的系列抓住了最活泼的一刻。”

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