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36小时玩转以色列特拉维夫

更新时间:2016-4-11 11:30:58 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

36 Hours in Tel Aviv
36小时玩转以色列特拉维夫

Tel Aviv-Jaffa has many pet names, but perhaps none so fitting as Medinat Tel Aviv (the State of Tel Aviv). This seafront metropolis of 400,000 may still trail Jerusalem in both population and historical importance, but Tel Avivians are too busy basking in their pristine beaches, high-tech scene and 300 annual days of sunshine to notice. Passionately secular and avowedly carefree, Tel Aviv-Jaffa is a 24/7 city where the search for the perfect cup of coffee and a commitment to L.G.B.T. pride seems to take precedence over Israel’s complicated politics. Tel Aviv-Jaffa is actually two connected enclaves: the traditionally Arab Jaffa to the south, where history and hipsterdom sync up with new energy; and the younger, hard-partying Tel Aviv to the north, which overflows with start-ups and casual cosmopolitanism. To get a taste for the city, hop on a bicycle or explore its avenues by foot — its flat, linked neighborhoods pulse with energy day and night, and the best way to see the action is to join right in.

特拉维夫—雅法(Tel Aviv-Jaffa)在民间存在着很多俗称,不过,恐怕哪个都比不上“特拉维夫州”(the State of Tel Aviv)这个说法来得合适。这座40万人口的海滨都市,无论人口还是历史地位,均难望耶路撒冷之项背,但是特拉维夫人都在全心享受他们那原生态的海滩、高科技造就的生活和每年那300个阳光灿烂的日子,根本无暇旁顾。热情洋溢的世俗生活,一望即知的无忧无虑,特拉维夫—雅法就是这样一座夜无止息的城市,对完美咖啡的执着,对LGBT群体自豪运动的投入,似乎都要比以色列错综复杂的政治局势重要得多。特拉维夫—雅法实际上由两块毗邻的飞地组成:南边是历史上原属阿拉伯的雅法,当地的历史与非主流文艺做派与时俱进,焕发新生;北边是历史相对较短、注重享乐的特拉维夫,这里创业公司遍地开花,随性的大同主义蔚然成风。若要一窥这座城市的风貌,不妨跨上一辆自行车四处穿梭,或者迈动双脚,探索城内的每一条街道——地势平坦、四通八达的街区,无论昼夜,始终生机盎然,而要看清这些生机,最好的办法就是融入其中。

星期五

1 4 p.m. Bright Lights, White City

1.明媚光线下的白色之城:下午4:00

At the heart of Tel Aviv-Jaffa sits the White City, a cluster of some 4,000 buildings designed in the 1930s by German-trained Jewish architects with a passion for Bauhaus design. Marked by simplistic lines, geometric balconies and the sleek uniformity of clean white facades, the White City is a Unesco World Heritage site that has, over the past decade, received a painstaking restoration. The richest collection of architectural gems is clustered along tree-lined, cafe-dotted Rothschild Boulevard, which features a central pedestrian green space and is one of the city’s prettiest thoroughfares. Standouts include the Baumel House (Rothschild 87); the Old Russian Embassy (Rothschild 46); and the Rubinsky-Braun Haus (Rothschild 82).

特拉维夫—雅法的心脏地带坐落着一座白城(White City),这处约由4000座大楼构成的建筑群由一批德国训练出的犹太建筑师设计于20世纪30年代,他们对包豪斯设计风格怀抱着一腔热情。以简洁的线条、几何形状的阳台、光洁如一的纯白色外观为标志的白城,被联合国教科文组织(UNESCO)认定为世界遗产,在过去十年里,经历了艰巨的修复工作。其中一批最为绚烂的建筑瑰宝沿着罗斯柴尔德大道(Rothschild Boulevard)一字排开,这里绿树成荫,偶有咖啡馆点缀其间,中间是一个步行绿化区,也是该市最美丽的街道之一。最惹眼的几幢有鲍梅尔大屋(Baumel House,罗斯柴尔德87号)、俄罗斯大使馆旧址(Old Russian Embassy,罗斯柴尔德46号)和(Rubinsky-Braun Haus,罗斯柴尔德82号)。

2 6 p.m. Sip and Stare

2.细品静赏:下午6:00

Tel Aviv likes to party late, which means that happy hour — observed at most watering holes between 5 and 8 p.m. — is all about fueling up. Luckily, the outdoor perch at Rothschild 12 offers nibbles of all sizes, like salmon tartar on toast (24 new shekels, or $6.35 at $3.77 shekels to the dollar) and roasted fennel with Gorgonzola cheese (22 shekels) paired with cocktails (starting at 25 shekels) and an unrivaled view of the boulevard’s pedestrian parade. As the sun sets, the back room of this funky, street-art adorned cafe morphs into a music hall, with D.J.s and live bands taking over the soundtrack.

特拉维夫喜欢狂欢至深夜,这意味着整段欢乐时光(据我观察,大部分酒吧是下午5点到晚上8点)都是在畅饮中度过。还好,罗斯柴尔德12号的户外休息椅提供不同份量的小食,比如三文鱼挞挞吐司(24新谢克尔,按3.77谢克尔兑1美元计算,约合6.35美元)、烤茴香配戈根索拉奶酪(22谢克尔)加鸡尾酒(25谢克尔起),外加林荫大道上无比壮观的穿梭人群。当太阳落下,这间饰以街头艺术的时髦咖啡馆便摇身一变,成为一间将音轨交给DJ和现场乐队接手的音乐厅。

3 8 p.m. Flea Market Frenzy

3.跳蚤市场狂:晚上8:00

Tel Aviv is barely 100 years old, but ancient, cobblestoned Jaffa is one of the oldest port cities in the world and home to Arab community life for centuries. Jaffa was united with Tel Aviv in 1950, and development has brought new energy to many of its downtrodden neighborhoods. By day, Jaffa’s flea market bursts with vendors peddling antiques and bric-a-brac; by night, the market — known locally as Shuk Hapishpeshim — is a wonderland of twinkling lights, clinking glasses and al fresco restaurants. Pull up a mismatched armchair at Puaa, a charming restaurant decorated with flea-market finds, order the red tahini to start (made with chargrilled tomatoes) and expect to pay about 85 shekels, without drinks, for dinner. Or find the alleyway Shaffa Bar, a hair salon that doubles as a tapas joint, serving small plates like grilled purple calamari with labneh yogurt (52 shekels) and Lima Lima, a Romanian-inspired lima bean purée with tomatoes, chiles and warm bread for 35 shekels.

特拉维夫的历史不过将将百年,但是鹅卵石铺就的古老城市雅法,可是世界上年头最久的港口城市之一,阿拉伯人曾在此定居了好多个世纪。雅法于1950年与特拉维夫合并,自那之后,许多曾经遭受压迫的街区因为开发建设而有了新鲜活力。白天,雅法的跳蚤市场内挤满了兜售古董和古玩的小贩;夜间,这间当地人口中的“Shuk Hapishpeshim”便成了灯火摇曳、杯觥交错的露天餐饮乐园。Puaa内装点着许多从跳蚤市场淘来的宝贝,在这间迷人的餐厅里拉过一把搭配不协调的扶手椅,先点一份红芝麻酱(red tahini,用炭烤番茄制成)开胃,只要85谢克尔左右,就能享受到一顿晚餐(不含酒水)。或者找到藏身巷内的Shaffa Bar,这间美发沙龙兼营塔帕斯,为顾客提供烤紫鱿鱼配浓缩酸奶(52谢克尔)、利马利马(Lima Lima)样的小食,后者是一种配搭番茄、辣椒和热面包食用的利马豆泥,售价35谢克尔。

4 11 p.m. Dance Dance Revolution

4.劲舞革命:晚上11:00

If you want to find a taste of peace in the Middle East, the dance floor at Anna Lou Lou, a cultural center and underground bar in Old Jaffa, is a good place to look. Utopia reigns at this smoky, hipster-happy party spot, where locals of every stripe — Muslim and Jewish, gay, straight and undefined — shake their sweaty selves to electro-Arab and African beats well into the wee hours. A revolving collection of cultural events and visiting D.J.s adds to the appeal.

如果你想感受一下中东地区的祥和氛围,雅法老城内的一家文化中心兼地下酒吧Anna Lou Lou的舞池,会是个值得一瞧的不错去处。这处烟雾弥漫的聚会场所备受文青喜爱,乌托邦精神统领全场,当地的各类人群,不分穆斯林与犹太人,也不分同性恋、异性恋或其他性向,都随着阿拉伯电音和非洲电音的节拍,一同摇摆着自己汗水淋漓的躯体,直到凌晨。不断轮换的各类文化活动和特邀DJ也为这里更添了几分魅力。

星期六

5 10 a.m. A Meal With a View

5.美景可餐:上午10:00

The classic Israeli breakfast — two eggs any style, breads, salad and dips — holds semireligious importance in Tel Aviv, where every cafe offers a nearly identical spin. Opt instead to start your Saturday with a spread of morning appetizers, including roasted eggplant, smoked fish and fresh ceviche (20 to 24 shekels) at the seafront institution Manta Ray. It might be hard to focus on your menu, though — the breathtaking view from the restaurant, perched feet from the waves at the sandy corner where Tel Aviv and Jaffa meet, offers quite a distraction.

经典的以色列式早餐包括两个以任意方式烹制的鸡蛋、面包、沙拉和蘸酱,它在特拉维夫当地具有着某种半宗教性质的重要地位,每间咖啡馆所提供的内容通常几乎一模一样。不妨另作选择,在海滨的Manta Ray,享用丰富多样的早餐小吃,包括烤茄子、烟熏鱼和新鲜的酸橘汁腌鱼(20至24谢克尔),以此开启周六的日程。不过这里恐怕会教人很难将注意力集中在菜单上——从餐厅内望出去,特拉维夫与雅法交界处的沙滩上,人们纷纷在海浪前方驻足,如此壮观的景象令人不由屏息,常常教人一时忘却手头的事情。

6 Noon Beachy Keen

6.海滩美景:中午

The coolest wheels in Tel Aviv-Jaffa come with handlebars, and on Saturdays, the three-mile promenade alongside the city’s shoreline is a veritable bicycle superhighway. Join the fray by renting a ride (23 shekels Saturdays and holidays, 17 shekels weekdays, plus about 6 shekels each additional hour) from one of the city’s 180 Tel-O-Fun bikeshare stations and take a spin along the boardwalk. The Tel Aviv coast is a string of separate beaches. From Manta Ray’s Alma Beach pedal north. Just after the Hilton Hotel you’ll find the city’s unofficial gay beach (the rainbow-painted cabanas will tip you off), which juts up against the religious beach, with separate sunbathing days for men and women. Pedal past both to Metzitzim Beach, where a man-made lagoon keeps the waves calm, and a cafe will deliver snacks to your towel.

特拉维夫—雅法最酷的交通工具,是带把手的那种。每到周六,沿海岸而建的三英里步行街,便成了一条名副其实的自行车高速路。从该市的180个Tel-O-Fun自行车租借点中任选一间,租借一辆自行车(周六及节假日租价23谢克尔,平日租价17谢克尔,每超时一小时加6谢克尔)加入这场大战,绕着木板路兜一圈吧。特拉维夫的海岸线由一串独立的海岸组成。从Manta Ray的阿尔玛海滩(Alma Beach)向北边骑行。过了希尔顿酒店(Hilton Hotel)后,就会看到这座城市里一处大家默认的同性恋海滩(看到漆成彩虹色的小屋就知道了),朝着教徒海滩的反方向伸展出去,在不同的日期里仅限同一性别来这里享受日光浴。骑过这两个地方,前往梅济特济姆海滩(Metzitzim Beach),那里的人造潟湖始终风平浪静,还有一间咖啡馆提供零食外卖。

7 4 p.m. Culture Break

7.文化突破:下午4:00

Neve Tzedek, an artsy neighborhood that is home to Israel’s premier dance performance hall, is an ideal respite from the sun. Here, you’ll find the Suzanne Dellal Center, a sprawling campus housing several dance companies, including the internationally acclaimed modern powerhouse Batsheva. After the encore, stretch your legs and shop: Unlike most of Tel Aviv, where businesses shutter their doors on Saturdays in observance of the Sabbath, many of Neve Tzedek’s boutiques — like Bikaleh (Shabazi 54), Gabriel (Shabazi 13) and Razili, Studio Noa and Sketch (all at the nearby Old Train Station complex) — remain open. For snacks, organic Meshek Barzilay serves smoothies and salads, while Anita Ice Cream scoops up distinctive gelato flavors including ricotta with strawberries and mascarpone.

在充满艺术气息的街区尼维泽德克(Neve Tzedek),坐落着以色列最顶级的歌舞演出厅,它是一处暂时逃离日晒的理想去处。这里有一间苏珊娜·德拉尔舞蹈中心(Suzanne Dellal Center),校区占地宽广,内驻数间舞蹈公司,包括斐名国际的现代舞团巴歇瓦(Batsheva)。安可结束后,拉伸一下双腿,开始购物:在特拉维夫的大部分地方,商店会遵循安息日(Sabbath)的传统,每到周六便会关门歇业。这里则不同,尼维泽德克有许多精品店,譬如Bikaleh(Shabazi 54)、Gabriel(Shabazi 13)还有Razili、Studio Noa和Sketch(全部位于老火车站[Old Train Station]广场附近),却依然开门营业。小吃的话,有机食品店Meshek Barzilay供应沙冰和沙拉,冰淇淋店Anita Ice Cream提供特色口味的意式冰淇淋,包括意式乳清干酪草莓口味和马士卡彭芝士口味。

8 9 p.m. Culinary Revolution

8.美食革命:晚上9点

Israeli cuisine once meant hummus, falafel and grilled meats. The past 10 years have brought a culinary revolution, with dozens of bright young chefs traveling abroad to hone their art and returning home to test out their newfound skills. Leading the pack is Meir Adoni, who runs four Tel Aviv restaurants that have helped redefine new Israeli cuisine. Catit was the laboratory where Adoni developed his modernist Mediterranean cooking style, but it’s at Catit’s kid sister next door, Mizlala by Meir Adoni, where he lets loose. Start your meal with Zvia’s Kubaneh, a Jewish Yemenite bread reawakened with green chiles (33 shekels), then move on to the non-kosher calamari salad with shrimp and smoked chile aioli (87 shekels) and a veal fillet with licorice salsa and Mexican harissa cream (143 shekels).

以往的以色列料理就是鹰嘴豆泥、油炸鹰嘴豆饼和烤肉。最近这10年的时间,以色列发生了一场美食革命,数十名优秀的年轻厨师游历海外磨练厨艺,然后返回家乡检验自己新获得的技能。当中的一位佼佼者就是梅厄·亚多尼(Meir Adoni),他目前在特拉维夫经营着四间餐厅,帮当地重新定义了新式以色列料理的概念。Catit是亚多尼开发现代派地中海料理型态的实验室,但他施展实验成果的地方,则是Catit隔壁新开张不久的姊妹店Mizlala by Meir Adoni。先来一份Zvia’s Kubaneh,这是一种用青辣椒醒味的犹太也门面包(33谢克尔),接着品尝非犹太洁食的烟熏辣椒蒜泥蛋黄酱虾仁鱿鱼沙拉(87谢克尔)、小牛肉菲力配甘草萨尔萨辣酱和墨西哥风味哈里萨奶油酱(143谢克尔)。

9 11 p.m. ArtRave

9.艺术狂欢:晚上11:00

Follow the splashy street art down the winding staircase of the nightspot Kuli Alma, and you’ll find an enchanted urban garden of interconnected dance floors, art installations and chic lounge areas. Kuli Alma attracts international D.J.s and gallery artists alike, making it an exciting meeting point for creativity and night life. Cocktails run around 40 shekels.

跟着引人注目的街头艺术,走下夜总会Kuli Alma的蜿蜒楼梯,便会发现一处令人心醉的城市花园,内有相互连通的舞池、艺术装置和别致的娱乐休息区。Kuli Alma吸引了各国DJ和画廊艺术家的前来,令这里变成了创作与夜生活相交汇的场所,令人兴奋。鸡尾酒售价大约在40谢克尔左右。

星期日

10 9 a.m. Beer for Breakfast

10.餐前啤酒:早上9:00

At Café Xoho, a funky vegetarian hangout with an expat following, try the Beer Bread Breakfast: scrambled eggs served with a creamy spread and seasonal toppings atop beer-flavored bread (48 shekels). Order a café hafuch, the Israeli take on a cappuccino, or head to nearby Brew Shop Coffee, which specializes in cold brew and is one of the only filter coffee bars in the country.

Café Xoho是一间时髦的素食餐厅,颇受外国顾客追捧,尝试一下这里的啤酒面包早餐(Beer Bread Breakfast):炒鸡蛋蘸奶油酱和啤酒味面包加时令配料(售价48谢克尔)。点上一杯以色列风味的卡布其诺café hafuch,或者光临附近的Brew Shop Coffee,这间咖啡店专擅冷泡咖啡,是以色列国内仅有的几间滴漏咖啡吧之一。

11 11 a.m. To Market, To Market

11.去买菜,去买菜:上午11:00

Navigate the stalls of Shuk HaCarmel and see how the city eats and meets. Start where Allenby, King George and Sheinkin Streets meet, and be sure to bring cash. A gentrification wave has spruced up the market’s seedier corners, but several original flagships hold steady: Café Cohen (Yishkon 32), where the same family has been brewing java for 70 years; Amrani Nuts (HaCarmel 15), selling nuts, spices and dried fruit; and Hummus Magen David (HaCarmel 11), where creamy chickpea spread is served under a Torah scroll in what was once a functioning synagogue. Newer additions include Lehamim (Breads) Bakery (HaCarmel 11), a national chain that recently expanded to Manhattan; Meat Market (Yom Tov 5); and the Beer Bazaar (RamBam 1), featuring 80 craft brews from Israeli microbreweries.

在卡梅尔市场(Shuk HaCarmel)里的摊位之间穿行,看看这座城市的百姓都是怎么解决饮食和碰面的。就从艾伦比街(Allenby Street)、乔治国王街(King George Street)和沙因克因街(Sheinkin Street)这三条街道的交汇处开始逛起,千万记得在身上带够现金。绅士化浪潮令整座市场内的破旧角落焕然一新,但也有几间旗舰老店依旧保持着旧日风采:经营Café Cohen(Yishkon 32)的科恩家族,已经在这间咖啡店里煮了70年的咖啡;Amrani Nuts(HaCarmel 15)售卖各类坚果、香料和干果;Hummus Magen David(HaCarmel 11)的奶香鹰嘴豆酱上桌时,抬头便可瞻仰半空中悬挂的《妥拉》(Torah)卷轴,这里曾经是一个犹太人集会的活动场所。开张时间较近的门店有:面包店Lehamim (Breads) Bakery(HaCarmel 11),这家全国连锁店近来已经扩张到了美国曼哈顿;肉类市场(Yom Tov 5);啤酒精品店Beer Bazaar(RamBam 1),供应80种以色列小型酿酒坊酿造的自酿啤酒。

住宿

调皮的布朗海滩之家(Brown Beach House;brownhotels.com/beach)是一间精品酒店,提供空间宽敞的客户与套房,全部装饰着泼洒状的黑黄斑点,距离地中海仅有数步之遥。配套设施包括酒吧兼咖啡厅,Stella水疗中心,免费的自行车租赁、沙滩手提袋和毛巾。这里有众人供你观赏,也有众人在观赏你,所以记得拖鞋也要穿双够美的。客房价格每晚195美元起,含早餐。

设计精美的罗斯柴尔德酒店(Rothschild Hotel;the-rothschild-hotel.com)所坐落的房屋,在该市的地位数一数二,是一幢可以俯瞰罗斯柴尔德大道的联合国教科文组织保护建筑。28间充满现代感的客房内贴满精美雅致的瓷砖,配备定制家具、浓缩咖啡机及免费无线网。住宿费270美元起,含早餐。

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