您现在的位置: 纽约时报中英文网 >> 纽约时报中英文版 >> 旅游 >> 正文

4000人的海上小社会,这艘邮轮太大了

更新时间:2016-4-7 10:45:26 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

A City-Size Cruise, With 4,200 Friends
4000人的海上小社会,这艘邮轮太大了

To travel on Norwegian Cruise Line’s Norwegian Escape, the fifth-largest cruise ship in the world, is to become a master of the tall tale. Except that the tales are all true.

“挪威巡航线”(Norwegian Cruise Line)公司的“挪威遁逸号”(Norwegian Escape)号是世界第五大邮轮,乘坐它旅行,会让你觉得自己简直成了吹牛大王。只不过这些故事都是真的。

How big is that boat?

这艘船到底有多大?

So big you’re instructed to look at the fish pattern in the carpets to figure out which way is forward (they “swim” toward the bow).

实在是太大了,你得看着地毯上的鱼儿花纹才能分辨出该走哪条路(通往船头的路上,鱼儿是“游动”的)。

Norwegian Cruise Line’s Norwegian Escape, with its mural by Guy Harvey.
“挪威巡航线”公司的“挪威遁逸号”邮轮,上有盖伊·哈维绘制的大幅图案。

So big you can sign up for Pilates and be half the class because scores of other activities are competing for attention.

实在太大了,你去上普拉提课,发现一个班只来了一半人,因为还有其他几十种活动可以选择呢。

So big you can spend a week roaming the ship and rarely see the same face twice.

实在太大了,你在船上逛上一整个星期,都不会见到一张重复的面孔。

That happened to me. When I boarded the Escape in Miami for a cruise of the eastern Caribbean last month, I noticed a group of people in matching pale green shirts. Each shirt had the word “Shipfaced” on front and a picture of an ocean liner in a liquor bottle on back. Above the picture, a slogan was printed. A blond, middle-age woman’s shirt said, “Where’s Joe.” She was traveling with a balding man with a mustache, whose shirt said, “I’m Joe.”

我真的遇了这种事。上个月,我在迈阿密搭乘“遁逸号”去往东加勒比海,我注意到,船上有一群人穿着淡绿色的衬衫。每件衬衫前面都写着“船上烂醉”,还有一艘海轮后面挂着一个酒瓶子的图案,上方有一条标语。一个金发的中年女子的标语上写着:“乔在哪儿呢。”她的旅伴是一个留胡子的秃头男人,衣服上面写着“我是乔”。

I never saw them again. Or maybe I just didn’t recognize them among the 4,200 passengers, a rollicking society of families, honeymooners, retired couples and a few loners, like me. How many were blondes and baldies? How many had mustaches?

我后来再也没见过她们。抑或见了他们我也没认出来,船上有4200个旅客呢,完全是一个由家人、恋人、退休夫妇和少数独身旅行者(比如我)组成的欢乐小社会。船上到底有多少金发女郎和秃头男子?其中又有几个秃头男子有胡子?

With an assignment to write about that increasingly popular species, the megaship, I made my booking two weeks before the cruise, scoring a balcony room for $1,349. The deal included an unlimited beverage package (any drink under $15, which meant basically anything that wasn’t single-malt Scotch or came in a pewter cup) and a $50 nonrefundable onboard credit. I was also offered four meals at the ship’s specialty restaurants. The catch was I couldn’t choose my room.

超级邮轮旅游愈来愈受欢迎,我被派来写一篇关于它的文章,于是就提前两周预定了这次巡游,以1349美元的价格定了一个包间。这个价钱中包括了不限量饮料套餐(任何单价15美元以下的饮料,也就是说只要不点单一麦芽威士忌,别点用高级白锻杯盛着的东西就行了),还有价值50美元不可退还的船上信用金额。船上还提供我一日四餐,都是在特别餐馆。代价是不能选择房间。

Norwegian Cruise Line prides itself on what it calls “freestyle cruising.” There are no dress codes, timed seatings, midnight buffets with ice sculptures or other formalities. Instead, you have a choice of 28 “dining options,” five of which are covered in your fare and the rest supplemental. Passengers are free to eat anytime, anywhere. (Room service is available 24 hours a day.) Gone is the cohort you join, for better or worse, when assigned a regular place at a table.

“挪威巡航线”骄傲地宣称自己的路线是“自由式巡航”。他们没有着装风格要求、没有定时就座、没有带冰雕的午夜自助餐之类正式社交场合,而是提供28种“就餐选择”,其中五种是包括在票价里的,另外几种需要额外付费。旅客可以在任何时间用餐(房间服务是全天候的)。不管好坏,你都不用再加入就餐大军,被分配到餐桌边的固定位置。

With its lacy white balconies, the Escape looked to me like the cake for a Leviathan’s destination wedding. The ship was only four months old, a shiny, hulking infant with 20 decks and a fuel capacity of 985,626 gallons.

遁逸号上有带花饰的白色阳台,我觉得好像海怪婚宴上的蛋糕。这艘船年纪只有四个月,是个闪闪发光的巨婴,有20层舱板,可储藏985626加仑燃油。

As I boarded the ship, I was greeted by a few of the 1,700 crew members. They were dancing to “(I’ve Had) The Time of My Life.” Then a worker sprayed disinfectant on my hands. When I reached deck 9, I followed the carpet fish up a long, dystopian corridor lined with doors. The stateroom that had been assigned to me had a queen-size bed, a sofa and balcony with two chairs and a small table that overlooked a shuffleboard court and the sea.

船上共有1700名工作人员,登船时我受到了其中一些人的欢迎。他们伴着《(我已享受过)生命中的时光》([I’ve Had] The Time of My Life)翩翩起舞。然后一个工作人员把消毒剂喷洒在我手上。我来到9号舱,跟着地毯上的鱼儿走过一条长长的、后乌托邦式的走廊,两边都是门。被分配给我的特等客舱里有一张豪华大床,一把沙发和一个带两把椅子和一个小桌子的阳台,可以俯瞰一个沙狐球场和大海。

I loved my room. It was small but with generous amenities. The closet had 18 wooden hangers. The bathroom shelves held all my toiletries. Eventually, the reason for this abundance hit me: I was taking up twice the space of a normal double-occupancy passenger. The sliver of desk attached to the wall across from the sofa was mine, all mine. Over the week, I would spend many hours there, cursing the balky Wi-Fi connection that cost $210.

我喜欢我的房间。它很小,但是非常舒适。衣橱里有18个木质挂钩。厕所的架子上可以放下我的所有化妆品。得知房间何以如此宽裕的原因之后我震惊了:我占用了普通双人房两倍的空间。贴着墙壁的细长桌子直到沙发都是属于我的,全部都是我的。整个星期,我花了很多时间在屋子里,抱怨着花了我210美元的Wi-Fi连接不听使唤。

But what good was sitting alone in my stateroom? I went to explore the heart of the ship, decks 6 through 8. I found two big atria surrounded by restaurants, theaters, bars, a game room, shops, clubs, an art gallery and a sprawling casino anchored by a two-story-high ribbon-shaped chandelier lit by LEDs that changed color.

但是独自呆在我的特等舱里又有什么好处?我出发到这艘船的心脏探险——6号舱到8号舱。我发现这两个大大的心房由饭馆、影院、酒吧、一个游戏厅、商店、俱乐部、一个画廊和一个乱七八糟的赌场包围着,赌场里有个两层楼高的彩带状LED枝状吊灯,不住变幻色彩。

On the whole, the interior seemed to borrow a lot from casino design. Divorced from the watery, breezy world outside, each venue offered variations of faux wood-grain laminates; dark, patterned carpets; brass railings and flamboyant light fixtures. Restaurants and bars shouldered cartoonish identities. They weren’t called Irish Pub, Art Deco Supper Club, Argentine Steakhouse, French Bistro or Hipster Microbrewery, but they might as well have been. Many spilled into corridors like the places that serve food in airport terminals.

总的来说,这里的内部装潢借鉴了很多赌场的设计。远离大海与微风的外部世界,所有场馆里都有不同的伪木质压层、带花纹的深色地毯、黄铜围栏和花哨的灯具。饭馆和酒吧扮演了漫画般的典型角色。它们不叫“爱尔兰酒吧”、“装饰艺术晚餐俱乐部”、“阿根廷牛排屋”、“法国小酒馆”或者“时尚小酒厂”之类的,但它们拥有这样的职能。走廊上挤着很多这样的场所,有点像机场候机厅里的餐饮区。

Up on decks 17 through 20 was a whole other world. Here were the sun-soaked swimming pools, the full-scale basketball court, the four water slides tangled like enormous sea snakes and the three-story ropes course with 99 different elements, including the Escape’s star feature: a pair of planks cantilevering over the ocean on either side.

走上17到20舱又是另一个完全不同的世界。这里有沐浴着阳光的游泳池、完整大小的篮球场、四条滑水道像巨大的海蛇一样纠结着,三层楼高的绳索课程有99个不同的组成部分,包括遁逸号上的星级特色项目:一对悬挂在大洋两侧的厚木板。

I was determined to walk the plank. But first I wanted to check out the Mr. Sexy Legs Competition. It was held poolside on Sunday, the day after we sailed. Nine shirtless men with big numbers painted on their bellies twerked for the crowd before submitting to bottom-grabbing and nipple-pinching by three middle-age female judges.

我决心走过这对木板。但首先我想去看看“性感美腿先生大赛”。它在周日,也就是起航第二天,在泳池旁边举办。九个赤裸上身的男人肚皮上写着大大的号码,对着人群扭动身体,之后由三个中年女评审进行捏屁股和掐乳头之类评判。

Many of the contestants appeared over 40 and had soft, leathery hides. Not No. 9, a hard-bodied young man who could do handsprings.

很多参赛者都年过40,皮肤柔软松弛,不过九号选手是个身强力壮的年轻人,还能翻筋斗呢。

“You clearly look like you spend time in the gym,” said Silas Cook, the ship’s cruise director and competition M.C., who came from the Casey Kasem school of extreme vocal resonance.

“你肯定花了不少时间健身,”巡航总监兼竞赛主持人希拉斯·库克(Silas Cook)说,他来自卡塞·卡西姆学校,声音有着优美的共振。

“I take steroids,” the man said.

“我服用类固醇,”男人说。

By popular choice, the winner was contestant No. 3. He had closely cropped gray hair and a prosthetic leg and had made a big impression dancing with his cane to “Great Balls of Fire.”

大众评选的胜利者是第三号参赛者,他头发近乎花白,一条腿是义肢,拄着拐杖,跟随《大火球》(Great Balls of Fire)起舞,非常动人。

“Less is more,” Mr. Cook observed.

“简约即美,”库克先生评论道。

Where were the children? Mostly secreted away in other parts of the vast ship but soon to reappear in giggling clusters. Not to slight the obvious enjoyment of adults, the Escape was a child’s paradise. I ached to have my 10-year-old daughter with me. She would have found all her favorite things: miniature golf, French fries, bowling, an aquatic playground, gold. This last was displayed on counters in the shopping area, coils of decorative chains that were sold by the inch, like grosgrain ribbon.

孩子们都到哪儿去了?大多数都偷偷溜到大船的另一个部分去了,不过很快他们又重新出现,还咯咯笑个不停。“遁逸号”绝不怠慢成年人欢乐,同时也是孩子们的天堂。我真想带我10岁的女儿一起来。她能在这儿找到所有自己最心爱的东西:迷你高尔夫球、炸薯条、保龄球、水球、金子——购物区有卖金饰,大卷装饰金链按英寸出售,有点像缎带。

The guide to my week was “Freestyle Daily,” the activity bulletin. Every evening, it appeared on my bed, along with fresh hand towels that my thoughtful steward, Ahmad Riyadi, folded into the shape of a bulldog, elephant, bird, and frog — or maybe crab? Tucked under my arm, this bible led me to cupcake decorating demonstrations, karaoke performances and a lecture by the ship’s port shopping consultant, Rita Mantoura, on finding tax-free bargains where we docked. “If you see it and you love it, buy it!” Ms. Mantoura chanted in call-and-response style. “Who has heard of a company called De Beers? Hands up!”

我这一周的指导手册名叫《自由自在日报》(Freestyle Daily),是船上的活动快报,每天晚上都会和新的毛巾一起出现在我的床上,体贴的服务员阿迈德·里亚蒂(Ahmad Riyadi)会把毛巾折成斗牛犬、鸟儿和青蛙的形状——也许是螃蟹吧。我把这本圣典夹在胳膊底下,让它指引我去参加纸杯蛋糕装饰展、卡拉OK表演和船上的港口购物顾问丽塔·曼图拉(Rita Mantoura)的讲座,内容是如何在港口发现免税的便宜货。“如果你看到什么,觉得很喜欢,那就买下来吧!”曼图拉女士用对唱般的声音说道。“谁听说过一个名叫‘De Beers’的公司?举起手来!”

I also found out that solo travelers had their own social hour. They even had their own section on the ship, with 82 small staterooms, a lounge and an activities program.

我发现,独身旅行者也有自己的社交时间。他们在船上有自己的特殊区域:82个小型头等舱,一个休息厅和一个特别的活动计划。

I joined the solos one evening, as they were about to head out to dinner together. Robert Zitsch, a retired mechanical engineer for the oil and gas industry, who lives in Louisiana, told me he had taken cruises regularly since the death of his wife 18 months before. As a frequent customer and dedicated gambler, he had secured a mini-suite with balcony on the Escape for $432, plus credits for purchases on ship and at ports.

我参加了一次单身人士晚会,他们打算一起吃晚饭。石油天然气机械工程师罗伯特·齐施(Robert Zitsch)现居路易斯安那,他告诉我,自从妻子18个月前去世后,他就经常乘坐邮轮旅行。作为常客与热心的赌徒,他在“遁逸号”上以432美元拥有一个带阳台的迷你套间,还有在船上及港口购物的信用卡。

Mr. Zitsch, who is 76, added that he liked enormous cruise ships because the masses of passengers required more staff, which translated into better service and a greater variety of live entertainment. He was planning to take another Norwegian cruise in June. “I don’t know where that ship is going, and I don’t care,” he said. (When I encountered him again at the end of the week, he was less happy with the experience. He said he found the food and service disappointing and had had to correct the dealers’ math more than once.)

齐施先生今年76岁了,他还说,自己喜欢大型邮轮,因为大量乘客需要大量员工,因此服务也就更好,生活娱乐也更多。他计划6月乘坐另一艘挪威邮轮旅行。“我不知道这艘船要去哪儿,我也不在乎,”他说道(这一周结束的时候,我又遇到了他,他显得不那么快活了,说食物和服务令人失望,还曾经不止一次地纠正发牌人的数学错误)。

The Escape had other exclusive meeting places. The Thermal Suite Spa, a feature of other Norwegian ships, was a glassy area with saunas, steam room, “snow room” (a walk-in freezer with occasional flurries), “salt bath” (a temperate booth furnished with glowing pink crystals) and the thalassotherapy pool, the biggest hot tub I ever swam in. Yes, swam. The seawater tub was more than four feet at its deepest spot and had a curved sculptural element in the middle from which gushed a fountain that massaged my back.

遁逸号上还有其他专用的会面场所。“热力水疗套餐”是挪威邮轮上的特色服务,是一块围着玻璃的区域,带有桑拿房、蒸汽室、“雪屋”(一个步入式冷库,偶尔飘雪花)、“盐浴”(一个温度适中的洗浴区,装饰着闪闪发亮的粉色水晶)以及海水疗法浴池,这是我游过的最大的热水浴缸。没错,游过。海水浴缸最深的地方超过四英尺,中间有带曲线的雕塑装置,一股水流从里面喷射出来,按摩着我的后背。

Let me be clear. I didn’t pay $219 for one of the 120 Thermal Suite Spa memberships available. Instead, I took advantage of the $54 day pass that could be used only when the ship was at port. On Tuesday, while other passengers scooped up duty-free bracelets and watches on St. Thomas, I hogged a cushioned chair intended for couples, with a many-pillowed backrest. From there I watched yachts in the bay at Charlotte Amalie looking feeble and small.

澄清一下,我没有花219美元加入“热力水疗套餐”会员,体验其120项服务之一。我用的是54美元的日卡,只有在船只靠岸的时候才能使用。星期二,其他乘客都跑去购买免税手镯,参观圣托马斯岛,我却霸占了一张供两人坐的软垫椅子和很多靠垫。坐在那儿盯着夏洛特阿玛利亚海湾里的游艇,它们看上去很弱小。

Two days later, I had another exclusive opportunity: a behind-the-scenes tour of the Escape ($79). My 15 tour mates and I soon learned to our disappointment that the bridge and engine room would be off limits because of security concerns. Instead we were treated to a history of Norwegian Cruise Line, followed by a visit to the biggest of the ship’s 20 galleys, an antiseptic steel warren overrun with drones. We were declared kings and queens of the kitchen and invited to pose for free photos wearing a chef’s toque and holding a giant whisk.

两天后,我又参加了一次专项体验:“遁逸号”内部游(79美元)。我和15名旅伴很快失望地得知,由于安全原因,舰桥和机械室不能进入。工作人员只是给我们讲解了“挪威巡航线”的离世,然后又参观了船上20个艺术馆中最大的一个无菌的钢铁洞穴,里面到处都是回音。我们被封为厨房的国王与王后,可以免费戴厨师帽,拿着特大号掸子拍照。

In the provision area, which extends through three decks, we were told that the ship stocks 60,000 pounds of meat, fish and poultry a week and 4,000 pounds of bananas.

我们来到占据了三个船舱的物资区,被告知船上每周储藏6万磅的家畜肉、鱼肉和禽肉、以及4000磅的香蕉。

In the laundry area, we saw jaw-dropping technology. One machine pressed shirts on an armature that puffed up and steamed the garment. Another folded and stacked 200 towels in an hour. So many linens require washing on a ship this size that their journey down a chute from the passenger floors must be scheduled to avoid traffic jams.

在洗衣区,我们看到了令人大开眼界的高科技。一台机器把衬衫铺在支架上,喷出水汽,熨洗衣物。另一台机器能在一小时内折叠并堆好200块毛巾。这样大的一艘船上,有太多的亚麻制品需要清洗,它们都是从旅客区沿着专门的滑道传送,传送的路线需要专门制定计划,避免出现拥堵状况。

“What happens when someone dies on board?” a woman in the group asked.

“如果有人在船上去世了怎么办?”一个女游客问。

Smoothly, as if he gets this question all the time (which is probably the case), our guide explained that the ship has two landing places for helicopters to remove bodies.

我们的导游没有大惊小怪,好像总会被问到这个问题一样(很有可能确实如此),他平静地说,船上有两个停机坪,可以供直升机运送尸体。

“You don’t prop them up on a deck chair with a hat and drink?” the woman asked.

“你们不会给他们摆姿势,让他们戴着帽子,拿着饮料坐在甲板上的椅子里吗?”女人问。

Indulgent smile. “No.”

迁就的笑容:“不会。”

“Or put them in the meat locker?”

“也不会把他们装在冻肉冷柜里?”

Indulgent smile. “No.”

迁就的笑容:“不会。”

But now the time had come. If I procrastinated any longer, the winds might rise, or the rain might fall, and I would never be able to walk the plank.

但是时间到了。如果我再拖延,就该起风或者下雨了,我就不能走木板了。

At the ropes course, I donned a harness and got in line behind a man who looked to be in his late 60s. Climbing a ladder, I found myself about 15 feet above the deck with a view of the ocean many feet below that. An attendant attached one end of a rope to my harness and the other end to a sliding element in a metal track above my head. Now, all I had to do was walk along a beam that was maybe the width of my foot, with nothing to grasp except that dangling line.

在绳索课程上,我系上背带,排在一个快70岁的男人身后。走上梯子,我发现自己位于甲板15英尺上方,脚下可以遥遥看见大海。一个参加者把一节绳索系在我的背带上,另一端系在我头顶金属轨道的滑块上。现在,我只需走过一段和我的脚一样宽的横梁,除了一根悬挂的绳索,什么也靠不住。

From there, I needed to scramble over various single- or double-stranded cables and horizontal rope ladders before reaching the plank, which I now could see was hinged to the structure. In other words, it swayed.

然后,我还得爬过各种单股或双股的绳索和绳梯,才能到达那块木板。在木板前面,我可以看到连接它的合页,换句话说,它在震颤、摇晃。

It’s not that I feared for my life. If I fell, I would merely dangle helplessly while people below shot videos and posted them to YouTube.

我倒不是害怕出人命。如果我失足,只会无助地悬挂在半空,别人会拍录像,然后放在YouTube上。

Or the rope might indeed break, and I would have to be airlifted off the ship by helicopter or — worst-case scenario — stored in the meat locker.

不过绳索断掉了怎么办,如果真断掉了,那我就得被直升机送走了,或者——这是最糟的情况——被存放在冻肉冷柜里。

Blessing the many options the Escape offered, I turned tail and headed for my favorite venue, the 5 o’Clock Somewhere Bar. It was in fact 5 o’clock. Right there.

感谢“遁逸号”提供的多种选择,我调转绳索,直奔我最喜欢的场所:“某地五点”酒吧。此时正是五点钟。呆在那儿就好了。

“全文请访问纽约时报中文网,本文发表于纽约时报中文网(http://cn.nytimes.com),版权归纽约时报公司所有。任何单位及个人未经许可,不得擅自转载或翻译。订阅纽约时报中文网新闻电邮:http://nytcn.me/subscription/”

相关文章列表