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36小时玩转休斯顿

更新时间:2016-4-1 10:56:00 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

36 Hours in Houston
36小时玩转休斯顿

People only seem to mention going to Houston for work or study. And while “summering in Houston” is unlikely to become a thing, there has to be more to the city than office towers and libraries since so many of those who do go decide to stay. After more than a decade of frenetic growth, Texas’s biggest city is now America’s fourth largest, and according to several studies, its youngest (more millennials than boomers) and its most ethnically and culturally diverse. So it’s not surprising that Houston offers an amazing gastronomic mix — from taco stands, chicken and waffle joints and all manner of barbecue to Greek, Persian and Vietnamese cuisine — most with an attitude-free vibe. Enriched by the two great American traditions of immigration and philanthropy, the city’s ever-growing museums strike a balance between an expansive global outlook and strong local support. And the bayou in the heart of the city when it was founded in 1836 has been revived as a verdant park. With summer’s heat and humidity at bay, and with a prolonged drop in oil prices meaning less work and more play for some Houstonians, now is the time to go.

似乎只有在涉及工作或学习时,人们才会提到要去休斯顿。虽然“在休斯顿避暑”应该不太可能成为什么风潮,但鉴于确实有人会去,而且很多都决定在此小住,说明这座城市所拥有的,肯定不只是一堆写字楼和图书馆而已。经过十多年的疯狂发展,这座得克萨斯州第一大城市,如今俨然跃居美国第四大城市,而据多项研究显示,它的人口结构最为年轻(千禧一代的人口要多过婴儿潮一代),种族最为繁杂,文化也最为多样。因此你完全不用奇怪,休斯顿的美食种类之丰富,竟然如此令人目不暇接,无论是墨西哥卷饼摊、炸鸡华夫饼套餐和五花八门的烧烤,还是希腊、波斯和越南料理,均一应俱全,而且大多都伴随着一种轻松随意的氛围。“移民”与“博爱”堪称美国的两大传统,在它们的润泽下,这座城市内的博物馆越建越多,达到了全球化开阔视野与地方有力支持的平衡。该市于1836年建成时,在中心地带有一条大河,如今也已化身为一座青葱的公园,重新恢复了生机。鉴于夏日中的河湾炎热又潮湿,油价长期下跌也让部分休斯顿人工作减少而娱乐增多,现在正是去那里度假的好时机。

At left, Buffalo Bayou Park, recently remodeled with running and bike trails and playgrounds.
图左为布法罗河口公园(Buffalo Bayou Park),不久前才整修完毕,新建了跑道、自行车道和操场。

Friday

星期五

1 5 p.m. ­Look Up

1.仰望长空:下午5:00

The artist James Turrell’s “Sky Space” on the campus of Rice University is the perfect place to contemplate the heavens, framed with precision by a wafer-thin roof with a large aperturein the middle. Visitors sit in a pavilion below, looking up at the opening and marveling at Mr. Turrell’s deft manipulation of light as day turns to night in a Technicolor extravaganza that lastsroughly 45 minutes to an hour. “Sky Space” is open from 5:30 a.m. (for the sunrise light sequence) until 10 p.m. every day except Tuesdays. Reservations are free and typically required for the sunset light sequence only.

艺术家詹姆斯·特瑞尔(James Turrell)为莱斯大学(Rice University)校园设计的观天装置“暮光之城”(Sky Space),是凝望长空的理想去处——极薄的屋顶中央开了一方孔洞,将天空精准地框于其中。游客坐在下方亭子内,仰望方孔,惊叹于特瑞尔对光线的娴熟操弄。每当白日转为黑夜,便会有一场色彩绚丽的灯光秀在此上演,大约持续45分钟到一个小时。暮光之城每天早上5点半开始开放(可观赏日出时分的灯光变幻),一直到晚上10点,每逢周二休息。观赏日落灯光美景需提前预约,预约免费。

2 7 p.m.­ Greek Revival

2.希腊复兴:晚上7:00

Less than a year old and quickly becoming a popular standby in Rice Village, Helen has literally taken Greek food local with a menu that highlights regional produce given the Greek treatment. Huge Gulf shrimp “saganaki” ($18) are grilled and bathed in a peppery, fennel-spiked, fresh tomato sauce with feta and halloumi cheeses. Greek diner standards like the gyro ($20)are elevated with oven-roasted Texas pork, and delicate spanakopita ($3) are bursting with freshly sautéed spinach beneath a nearly transparent skin of crispy phyllo. Desserts are revelatory, from the delicate feta mousse with olive oil and thyme shortbread ($8) to the decadent Texas pecan baklava sundae ($7). The all-Greek wine list will open your eyes and your palate(not to mention your wallet) to the variety and quality of Greek tipples.

短短不到一年便迅速成为莱斯村(Rice Village)人气餐厅的Helen,做的是名副其实的希腊饮食本地化,菜单主打的就是希腊式烹饪本地加工。番茄羊奶酪焗虾(shrimp saganaki)(18美元)里,超大只的墨西哥湾虾先经过焗烤,再浇上以胡椒、茴香调味的新鲜番茄酱汁,然后拌入菲达奶酪和哈罗米奶酪。像希腊旋转烤肉(gyro)(20美元)这种希腊式快餐店的标配食物,与用烤箱烤制的德州猪肉高高地挂在一起,精美的希腊菠菜派(spanakopita)(3美元)那几近透明的酥脆薄面皮下,塞满了新鲜炒制的菠菜。甜品则充满启示精神,既有散发雅致气息的菲达慕斯配橄榄油与百里香酥饼(8美元),也有走颓废路线的德州山核桃蜜饼圣代(7美元)。酒单里列出的红酒俱为希腊出产,种类繁多、品质出色的希腊酒品,让你的眼界连同你的味觉(更不用提你的钱包)一起大开。

3 11 p.m. ­Choose Your Poison

3.小酌怡情:晚上11:00

Cactus or grapes? Step into one of Houston’s growing array of one-booze-only bars. Located downtown and serving more than 40 types of agave-based spirits, the Pastry War is all about the wonders of tequila and mezcal, from the house margarita ($8) to the evocatively trans-Atlantic-sounding Caravel, which features fig-and-cacao-infused mezcal, tawny port and Pedro Ximénez sherry. Around the corner is La Carafe, a timeworn ( it’s among the city’s oldest bars), wine-only joint that remains a perennial favorite.

要仙人掌还是要葡萄?从休斯顿不断涌现的单种酒酒吧里任选一间进去吧。坐落在市中心的Pastry War里,供应40多种用龙舌兰草酿制烈酒调制的鸡尾酒,让你尽享龙舌兰酒和梅斯卡尔酒的妙处,不光有吧内秘制的Margarita(8美元),更有让人联想起大西洋对岸风味的Caravel,是用泡过无花果和可可豆的梅斯卡尔酒、茶色波特酒和佩德罗—希梅内斯雪利酒调制而成。转过街角,则能看到La Carafe,这间老旧的酒馆(本地历史最久的酒吧之一)只售卖红酒,如今依然是四季皆宜的好去处。

Saturday

星期六

4 9 a.m. ­Breakfast Por Favor

4.风味早餐:早上9:00

Come with a newspaper and be prepared to stand in line at Laredo Taqueria, where the breakfast tacos ($2.25) run from egg and potato to chicharrón (pork skin). Start to burn some of those calories with a stroll through Buffalo Bayou Park, which has just emerged from a five-year overhaul and has running paths, bike trails and playgrounds.

带上一份报纸,做好在Laredo Taqueria排队等候的准备,这里的早餐墨西哥卷饼(2.25美元)所填馅料既有传统的鸡蛋与土豆,还有独特的炸猪皮(chicharrón)。再到布法罗河口公园(Buffalo Bayou Park)里面遛上一圈,权当燃烧一下早餐摄入的卡路里。这里刚刚结束一次历时五年的翻修,现在建有跑道、自行车道和操场。

5 10:30 a.m. ­A Fine Display

5.精美艺展:上午10:30

With a vast art collection and roster of special exhibitions that vividly reflect the city’s cultural mix and civic aspirations, the Museum of Fine Arts Houston (admission, $15) mixes prominent displays of Latin American, Islamic, Indian and Texan art in the mix with the ancient Greeks, Romans, European old masters and Impressionists and American modernists. There’s also a Noguchi-designed sculpture garden and one of the most cleverly curated museum shops in America. And since some Houston­ians don’t donate just their art but their homes as well, swing byone of the city’s most upscale enclaves, River Oaks, to visit themuseum’s collections of decorative arts in two gorgeous house museums — Rienzi ($6) and Bayou Bend ($12.50) —surrounded by acres of manicured gardens. Both homes will be on the wildly popular River Oaks Garden Club’s Azalea Trail weekend happening March 11 to 13 ($25).

休斯顿美术馆(Museum of Fine Arts Houston)(门票15美元)拥有十分丰富的藏品,不时举办各类特展,这座城市的杂糅文化与市民志趣,均在其中得到了鲜明的体现。这里陈列着出色的拉美、伊斯兰、印度和得克萨斯艺术品,中间混杂着古代希腊、罗马、欧洲早期大师以及印象主义、美国现代主义画派的作品。馆内还有一座由野口勇设计的雕塑花园,博物馆商店的策划布置在全美也算得上数一数二。有些休斯顿人,不仅捐献出了他们手中的艺术品,还捐出了他们的房屋。走过该市最高档的一处飞地——橡树河社区(River Oaks),到黎恩济(Rienzi)(6美元)和河口弯(Bayou Bend)(12.50美元)观赏琳琅满目的装饰艺术藏品,这两间旧居博物馆均华美无比,四周环绕着占地宽广、经过精心修剪的公园。由橡树河花园俱乐部(River Oaks Garden Club)主办的杜鹃小径节(Azalea Trail)倍受广泛大众的欢迎,今年的举办时间则是3月11日至13日这个周末,届时这两间旧居博物馆也会参展。

6 2 p.m. ­Get Crabby

6.大啖海鲜:下午2:00

You might not get past the appetizers at Goode Co. Seafood, which feels like a laid-back beachtown diner with a train car stuck on the front of it. Among the starters, the standout dish (or rather glass, since it’s served in a tall sundae goblet) is the Campechana. Imagine zingy fresh tomato salsa — spicy but not hot enough to stop you from shoveling it into your mouth —laden with chunks of ripe avocado and succulent shrimp. Add fresh crab meat for the Campechana “Extra,” which is definitely worth the splurge at $16. Follow it up with a fried flounder po’ boy ($14) and a slice of margarita Key lime pie ($7) and roll back out to the sidewalk.

你大概不想错过海鲜餐厅Goode Co. Seafood令人胃口大开的美食,那里给人的感觉,就像一间开在一列火车车厢背后,气氛慵懒的海滨小镇餐馆。店内提供的各式开胃菜中,十分出色的一道(或曰一杯,因为它是盛在一只圣代高脚杯里上桌的)就是Campechana。想象一下新鲜熬制的番茄莎莎酱的诱人味道——辛辣但不会呛得你不敢再往嘴里送——里面还裹着大块的牛油果和鲜嫩多汁的虾肉。在此基础上另外添加了蟹肉的Campechana Extra,绝对对得起一道16美元的咂舌价格。接着再来一份煎龙利鱼穷汉三明治(Fried Flounder Po’boy)(14美元)和一块玛格丽特青柠派(Margarita Key Lime Pie)(7美元),然后就可以带着圆滚滚的肚子走出店门,重新踏上人行道了。

7 4 p.m. ­Style Mile

7.时尚之街:下午4:00

Houston is famously scattershot, with no single center of style gravity but rather little constellations of like-minded shops, cafes and restaurants sitting a few doors from one another. If you’re looking for sartorial inspiration, look no further than the stretch of Westheimer Road between West Avenue and River Oaks. For women’s clothing and accessories, start at Tootsies, a 35,000-foot “boutique” known for its take on major designer collections and customer service. Down the road are smaller and edgier shops, Laboratoria and Cakewalk, both specializing in niche brands and personalized styling. Men can work the other side of the street to find Billy Reid and see what new-school Southern gentry are wearing. A few blocks west, Sid Mashburn hawks his more polished and preppy togs in an upscale strip mall (not a pejorative term in Houston).

休斯顿是出了名的“遍地开花”,这里没有单一的风格聚集地,而是由趣味相投的商店、咖啡馆和餐厅聚合成一处处集群散落各处,彼此之间隔不了几间店。如果你在寻找别具风格的服饰设计,不用跑得太远,位于西大道(West Avenue)与橡树河社区之间的维特美路(Westheimer Road)就能满足你的需要。女性服饰的话,可以先到Tootsies里看看,这是一间占地35,000英尺的“精品店”,以其对主流设计师作品的品位和顾客服务的质量著称。沿路走下去,则会看到面积更小但风格更前卫的Laboratoria和Cakewalk,这两间商店均专门经营小众品牌与个性化造型。男士们可以在这条街道的另一侧找到Billy Reid,见识一下新派的南方绅士都是如何穿衣打扮的。往西走过几个街区,一处高档的沿路商业区(这在休斯顿并不是个带有贬义的字眼)内,有Sid Mashburn在推销精致的学院风男装。

8 8:30 p.m. ­State of Grace

8.高雅姿态:晚上8:30

With Houston’s smart set table-hopping and air-kissing away, you’d never know that State of Grace’s see-and-be-seen dining room was formerly a dry cleaner and nail salon. Turns out the restaurateur Ford Fry, one of Atlanta’s culinary legends, is from Houston, and State of Grace, which opened in October, is his first venture in the old hometown. There’s a clubby dining room, a raw bar ringed by tables for two and a long bar for drinking or dining. The menu conveys Houston’s new eclecticism: lobster hush puppies ($9), queso Oaxaca ($12), Wagyu beef carpaccio ($9), pork schnitzel ($25) and roast duck carnitas for two ($52). Wash it all down with a bottle of Becker Texas viognier ($36). Linger after dinner for inventive cocktails like the Beast of Burden, made with ginger-spiced vodka and ginger beer or Bull in the Heather, blending Scotch, lavender honey and lemon bitters.

看着眼前的杯觥交错,人来人往,你大概永远不会想到,State of Grace那间集休斯顿各路时尚潮人于一堂的餐室,以前原本是一间干洗店兼美甲沙龙。原来这间餐厅的老板,堪称亚特兰大美食界的传奇人物之一的福特·弗莱(Ford Fry),本来就是休斯顿人,刚于10月开张的State of Grace则是他在老家经营的第一座产业。这里有采用俱乐部式限入制度的餐室,被一张张两人桌包围起来的生鲜海鲜自助吧台,以及供应酒水与餐品的长条形酒吧。菜单中处处体现出休斯顿的新派兼容并蓄:龙虾配炸玉米球(9美元);墨西哥瓦哈卡奶酪(12美元);和牛刺身(9美元);炸猪排(25美元);还有两人份的墨西哥烤鸭卷饼(52美元)。就着一瓶Becker Texas酒庄的维欧尼白葡萄酒(36美元),将这些美食尽数吞入肚中。用餐完毕,不妨再在餐厅内多坐些时候,品尝一杯独具创意的鸡尾酒,比如用干姜味伏特加和姜味啤酒调制的Beast of Burden,或者混合苏格兰威士忌、薰衣草蜜和柠檬苦酒而成的Bull in the Heather。

Sunday

星期日

9 10 a.m. ­Uncommon Baked Goods

9.非凡烘烤:上午10:00

Even on weekends there’s a morning rush hour and parking frenzy around Common Bond, the top-shelf bakery where breakfast options range from a bialy with cream cheese and caramelized onions ($3) to a tartine of duck breast, 63-degree egg, arugula and roasted peppers on rye ($11) or the more prosaic but savory soft scramble with herbs, Parmesan and ahunk of chewy baguette ($8). For dessert grab some house-made macarons in flavors like chocolate, lemon and lavender, or berries and cream ($2.25 each). Then step into Space Montrosenext door for a wide array of local and international handicrafts like Texas-made ceramic coasters ($10) or baby clothes (from $9) or a Texas-shaped Christmas ornament made from the state’s red-white-and-blue license plates ($15).

在Common Bond周边,即便周末早上,也照样可见拥堵的早高峰与停车狂潮,这间人气超旺的面包店提供的早餐种类无比丰富,从填着奶油奶酪、撒着微焦洋葱碎的比亚利碎洋葱面包卷(3美元),到在裸麦面包片上铺着鸭胸肉、63度蛋、芝麻菜和烤红椒的法式三明治(11美元),还有外观不起眼但风味奇佳的香草帕马森奶酪松软炒蛋配一大块很有嚼劲的法棍(8美元)。甜品方面,不妨来几只店内秘制的马卡龙,比如巧克力、柠檬加薰衣草口味,或者奶油加莓果口味(每只2.25美元)。然后转入隔壁的Space Montrose,欣赏琳琅满目的本地及外国制手工艺品,譬如得克萨斯州生产的陶瓷杯垫(10美元)或婴儿衣物(9美元起),或者用该州的红白蓝车牌做成的得克萨斯状圣诞吊饰(15美元)。

10 Noon ­Vintage Variety

10.中古精品:中午

If slightly older crafts are your thing, seek out the cluster of quirky antiques shops along Westheimer near Dunlavy. You could spend a good while picking your way though the tiny, jam-packed rooms at Old Blue House Antiques, which offers everything from chunky silver cuff bracelets to sleek Murano glass and even the odd 19th-century cabinet bronze tucked into an old nightstand. For furniture and larger pieces try Westheimer Flea Market, a large multivendor space where the inventory can vary wildly from week to week.

如果略有些年头的工艺品深得你心,不妨到维特美路沿线靠近邓拉维街(Dunlavy)一带的各类怪趣古董店里淘淘宝。你可能要用上好一会儿,才能决定要如何逛完古董店Old Blue House Antiques内一间紧挨着一间的小巧房间,这里的商品从豪气的宽边银手镯到优美的穆拉诺琉璃一应俱全,甚至还能看到造型奇特,藏身于古旧床头柜内的19世纪青铜制安全柜。至于家具和比较大型的物件,可以到维特美跳蚤市场(Westheimer Flea Market)里找找看,这块场地内进驻了许多店家,供应的商品每周都会大换血。

11 1:30 p.m. ­Arty Lunch

11.艺术午餐:下午1:30

It’s about time refreshments were served on the Menil art campus — home of the renowned Menil Collection, Rothko Chapel, Cy Twombly Gallery and Dan Flavin Installation at Richmond Hall (all free) just west of Montrose. Set in a quaint little bungalow facing Renzo Piano’s masterful building for the Menil Collection, Bistro Menil opened a little over a year ago with a menu strong on savory nibbles like eggplant “fries” with anchovy aioli ($8), chicken and artichoke crepes ($13) or crab cakes ($26). Thus fortified you can head out to conquer all that art.

此时差不多到了梅尼尔艺术区供应茶点的时间,这里集中了数间闻名遐迩的艺术博物馆——梅尼尔私人收藏博物馆(Menil Collection)、罗斯考小教堂(Rothko Chapel)、赛—托姆布雷画廊(Cy Twombly Gallery)和里士满展厅内的丹·弗莱文艺术装置(Dan Flavin Installation at Richmond Hall)(均免费开放),位置就在蒙特罗斯街区(Montrose)以西。梅尼尔私人收藏博物馆所在的大楼,其设计出自意大利建筑大师伦佐·皮亚诺(Renzo Piano)之手,而在大楼对面的一间外观古雅的平房内,则坐落着Bistro Menil,这间餐厅开业才刚满一年,擅长各类美味小吃,譬如炸茄条蘸鳀鱼蛋黄酱(8美元)、鸡肉洋蓟可丽饼(13美元)还有蟹饼(26美元)。补充过体力后,就可以冲出去将所有艺术品一网打尽啦。

住宿

看上去仿若一座超大号意式别墅的大公酒店(Hotel Granduca;1080 Uptown Park Boulevard;(713) 418-1000;granducahouston.com;住宿费250美元起),毗邻橡树河社区、Galleria购物中心和占地宽广的纪念公园(Memorial Park)。拉科洛姆多尔酒店(La Colombe d’Or;3410 Montrose Boulevard;(713) 524-7999;lacolombedor.com;双人间295美元起)取自19世纪的一位画家,坐落在一幢镀金时代(Gilded Age)的大宅内,总共只有6个套间,在商业气息浓厚的休斯顿,为客人提供独一无二的住宿体验。

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