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36小时玩转休斯顿

更新时间:2016-4-1 10:56:00 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

36 Hours in Houston
36小时玩转休斯顿

People only seem to mention going to Houston for work or study. And while “summering in Houston” is unlikely to become a thing, there has to be more to the city than office towers and libraries since so many of those who do go decide to stay. After more than a decade of frenetic growth, Texas’s biggest city is now America’s fourth largest, and according to several studies, its youngest (more millennials than boomers) and its most ethnically and culturally diverse. So it’s not surprising that Houston offers an amazing gastronomic mix — from taco stands, chicken and waffle joints and all manner of barbecue to Greek, Persian and Vietnamese cuisine — most with an attitude-free vibe. Enriched by the two great American traditions of immigration and philanthropy, the city’s ever-growing museums strike a balance between an expansive global outlook and strong local support. And the bayou in the heart of the city when it was founded in 1836 has been revived as a verdant park. With summer’s heat and humidity at bay, and with a prolonged drop in oil prices meaning less work and more play for some Houstonians, now is the time to go.

似乎只有在涉及工作或学习时,人们才会提到要去休斯顿。虽然“在休斯顿避暑”应该不太可能成为什么风潮,但鉴于确实有人会去,而且很多都决定在此小住,说明这座城市所拥有的,肯定不只是一堆写字楼和图书馆而已。经过十多年的疯狂发展,这座得克萨斯州第一大城市,如今俨然跃居美国第四大城市,而据多项研究显示,它的人口结构最为年轻(千禧一代的人口要多过婴儿潮一代),种族最为繁杂,文化也最为多样。因此你完全不用奇怪,休斯顿的美食种类之丰富,竟然如此令人目不暇接,无论是墨西哥卷饼摊、炸鸡华夫饼套餐和五花八门的烧烤,还是希腊、波斯和越南料理,均一应俱全,而且大多都伴随着一种轻松随意的氛围。“移民”与“博爱”堪称美国的两大传统,在它们的润泽下,这座城市内的博物馆越建越多,达到了全球化开阔视野与地方有力支持的平衡。该市于1836年建成时,在中心地带有一条大河,如今也已化身为一座青葱的公园,重新恢复了生机。鉴于夏日中的河湾炎热又潮湿,油价长期下跌也让部分休斯顿人工作减少而娱乐增多,现在正是去那里度假的好时机。

At left, Buffalo Bayou Park, recently remodeled with running and bike trails and playgrounds.
图左为布法罗河口公园(Buffalo Bayou Park),不久前才整修完毕,新建了跑道、自行车道和操场。

Friday

星期五

1 5 p.m. ­Look Up

1.仰望长空:下午5:00

The artist James Turrell’s “Sky Space” on the campus of Rice University is the perfect place to contemplate the heavens, framed with precision by a wafer-thin roof with a large aperturein the middle. Visitors sit in a pavilion below, looking up at the opening and marveling at Mr. Turrell’s deft manipulation of light as day turns to night in a Technicolor extravaganza that lastsroughly 45 minutes to an hour. “Sky Space” is open from 5:30 a.m. (for the sunrise light sequence) until 10 p.m. every day except Tuesdays. Reservations are free and typically required for the sunset light sequence only.

艺术家詹姆斯·特瑞尔(James Turrell)为莱斯大学(Rice University)校园设计的观天装置“暮光之城”(Sky Space),是凝望长空的理想去处——极薄的屋顶中央开了一方孔洞,将天空精准地框于其中。游客坐在下方亭子内,仰望方孔,惊叹于特瑞尔对光线的娴熟操弄。每当白日转为黑夜,便会有一场色彩绚丽的灯光秀在此上演,大约持续45分钟到一个小时。暮光之城每天早上5点半开始开放(可观赏日出时分的灯光变幻),一直到晚上10点,每逢周二休息。观赏日落灯光美景需提前预约,预约免费。

2 7 p.m.­ Greek Revival

2.希腊复兴:晚上7:00

Less than a year old and quickly becoming a popular standby in Rice Village, Helen has literally taken Greek food local with a menu that highlights regional produce given the Greek treatment. Huge Gulf shrimp “saganaki” ($18) are grilled and bathed in a peppery, fennel-spiked, fresh tomato sauce with feta and halloumi cheeses. Greek diner standards like the gyro ($20)are elevated with oven-roasted Texas pork, and delicate spanakopita ($3) are bursting with freshly sautéed spinach beneath a nearly transparent skin of crispy phyllo. Desserts are revelatory, from the delicate feta mousse with olive oil and thyme shortbread ($8) to the decadent Texas pecan baklava sundae ($7). The all-Greek wine list will open your eyes and your palate(not to mention your wallet) to the variety and quality of Greek tipples.

短短不到一年便迅速成为莱斯村(Rice Village)人气餐厅的Helen,做的是名副其实的希腊饮食本地化,菜单主打的就是希腊式烹饪本地加工。番茄羊奶酪焗虾(shrimp saganaki)(18美元)里,超大只的墨西哥湾虾先经过焗烤,再浇上以胡椒、茴香调味的新鲜番茄酱汁,然后拌入菲达奶酪和哈罗米奶酪。像希腊旋转烤肉(gyro)(20美元)这种希腊式快餐店的标配食物,与用烤箱烤制的德州猪肉高高地挂在一起,精美的希腊菠菜派(spanakopita)(3美元)那几近透明的酥脆薄面皮下,塞满了新鲜炒制的菠菜。甜品则充满启示精神,既有散发雅致气息的菲达慕斯配橄榄油与百里香酥饼(8美元),也有走颓废路线的德州山核桃蜜饼圣代(7美元)。酒单里列出的红酒俱为希腊出产,种类繁多、品质出色的希腊酒品,让你的眼界连同你的味觉(更不用提你的钱包)一起大开。

3 11 p.m. ­Choose Your Poison

3.小酌怡情:晚上11:00

Cactus or grapes? Step into one of Houston’s growing array of one-booze-only bars. Located downtown and serving more than 40 types of agave-based spirits, the Pastry War is all about the wonders of tequila and mezcal, from the house margarita ($8) to the evocatively trans-Atlantic-sounding Caravel, which features fig-and-cacao-infused mezcal, tawny port and Pedro Ximénez sherry. Around the corner is La Carafe, a timeworn ( it’s among the city’s oldest bars), wine-only joint that remains a perennial favorite.

要仙人掌还是要葡萄?从休斯顿不断涌现的单种酒酒吧里任选一间进去吧。坐落在市中心的Pastry War里,供应40多种用龙舌兰草酿制烈酒调制的鸡尾酒,让你尽享龙舌兰酒和梅斯卡尔酒的妙处,不光有吧内秘制的Margarita(8美元),更有让人联想起大西洋对岸风味的Caravel,是用泡过无花果和可可豆的梅斯卡尔酒、茶色波特酒和佩德罗—希梅内斯雪利酒调制而成。转过街角,则能看到La Carafe,这间老旧的酒馆(本地历史最久的酒吧之一)只售卖红酒,如今依然是四季皆宜的好去处。

Saturday

星期六

4 9 a.m. ­Breakfast Por Favor

4.风味早餐:早上9:00

Come with a newspaper and be prepared to stand in line at Laredo Taqueria, where the breakfast tacos ($2.25) run from egg and potato to chicharrón (pork skin). Start to burn some of those calories with a stroll through Buffalo Bayou Park, which has just emerged from a five-year overhaul and has running paths, bike trails and playgrounds.

带上一份报纸,做好在Laredo Taqueria排队等候的准备,这里的早餐墨西哥卷饼(2.25美元)所填馅料既有传统的鸡蛋与土豆,还有独特的炸猪皮(chicharrón)。再到布法罗河口公园(Buffalo Bayou Park)里面遛上一圈,权当燃烧一下早餐摄入的卡路里。这里刚刚结束一次历时五年的翻修,现在建有跑道、自行车道和操场。

5 10:30 a.m. ­A Fine Display

5.精美艺展:上午10:30

With a vast art collection and roster of special exhibitions that vividly reflect the city’s cultural mix and civic aspirations, the Museum of Fine Arts Houston (admission, $15) mixes prominent displays of Latin American, Islamic, Indian and Texan art in the mix with the ancient Greeks, Romans, European old masters and Impressionists and American modernists. There’s also a Noguchi-designed sculpture garden and one of the most cleverly curated museum shops in America. And since some Houston­ians don’t donate just their art but their homes as well, swing byone of the city’s most upscale enclaves, River Oaks, to visit themuseum’s collections of decorative arts in two gorgeous house museums — Rienzi ($6) and Bayou Bend ($12.50) —surrounded by acres of manicured gardens. Both homes will be on the wildly popular River Oaks Garden Club’s Azalea Trail weekend happening March 11 to 13 ($25).

休斯顿美术馆(Museum of Fine Arts Houston)(门票15美元)拥有十分丰富的藏品,不时举办各类特展,这座城市的杂糅文化与市民志趣,均在其中得到了鲜明的体现。这里陈列着出色的拉美、伊斯兰、印度和得克萨斯艺术品,中间混杂着古代希腊、罗马、欧洲早期大师以及印象主义、美国现代主义画派的作品。馆内还有一座由野口勇设计的雕塑花园,博物馆商店的策划布置在全美也算得上数一数二。有些休斯顿人,不仅捐献出了他们手中的艺术品,还捐出了他们的房屋。走过该市最高档的一处飞地——橡树河社区(River Oaks),到黎恩济(Rienzi)(6美元)和河口弯(Bayou Bend)(12.50美元)观赏琳琅满目的装饰艺术藏品,这两间旧居博物馆均华美无比,四周环绕着占地宽广、经过精心修剪的公园。由橡树河花园俱乐部(River Oaks Garden Club)主办的杜鹃小径节(Azalea Trail)倍受广泛大众的欢迎,今年的举办时间则是3月11日至13日这个周末,届时这两间旧居博物馆也会参展。

6 2 p.m. ­Get Crabby

6.大啖海鲜:下午2:00

You might not get past the appetizers at Goode Co. Seafood, which feels like a laid-back beachtown diner with a train car stuck on the front of it. Among the starters, the standout dish (or rather glass, since it’s served in a tall sundae goblet) is the Campechana. Imagine zingy fresh tomato salsa — spicy but not hot enough to stop you from shoveling it into your mouth —laden with chunks of ripe avocado and succulent shrimp. Add fresh crab meat for the Campechana “Extra,” which is definitely worth the splurge at $16. F