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36小时玩转布宜诺斯艾利斯

更新时间:2016-1-7 10:12:54 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

36 Hours in Buenos Aires
36小时玩转布宜诺斯艾利斯

No matter how soap-opera-like its politics, or exaggerated its inflation, Argentina’s capital never loses its charm. The city’s nonstop spawning of new restaurants and arts spaces is a testament to the endless creativity of Porteños, as its residents are called. Its century-old cafes and gorgeous tree-lined streets have always been a draw, but visit now for its culinary scene and gimmicky yet ineffably cool speakeasies. Buenos Aires loves to embrace reinvention, and it shows.

不管政治局势如何堪比肥皂剧,通胀问题又如何夸张,阿根廷的首都永远都不会丧失自己的魅力。市内不断涌现的新餐厅和新艺术空间,就是当地居民口中的这座Porteños(布宜诺斯艾利斯的西班牙语名称)所拥有的无尽创造力的最佳证明。拥有百年历史的咖啡馆与美不胜收的的绿荫街道一直难分伯仲,也可趁现在去欣赏当地的美食风景和各种花巧、酷劲十足的地下酒吧。布宜诺斯艾利斯喜欢拥抱革新,并且乐于展现。

At the Malba Museum, a sculpture by Federico Peralta Ramos, “We, the Outsiders” (1965).
布宜诺斯艾利斯拉丁美洲艺术博物馆(Malba Museum)内的雕像,费德里科·佩拉尔塔·拉莫斯(Federico Peralta Ramos)的《我们这些局外人》(We, the Outsiders)。

Friday

星期五

1. Latin American Art | 3:30 p.m.

1. 拉美艺术:下午3:30

It’s not an exaggeration to say that the Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires (Malba) is one of the best art museums on the continent. The modern, light-filled building (admission, 60 pesos or about $6.55 at 9 Argentine pesos to the dollar) is truly a necessary stop, with its vibrant permanent collection, where artworks are arranged chronologically and linked to their corresponding art movement. Highlights include works by the Argentine artist Antonio Berni and Frida Kahlo. The temporary exhibitions are almost always thought-provoking (and if you need a snack, the croissants in the cafe are excellent).

毫不夸张地说,布宜诺斯艾利斯拉丁美洲艺术博物馆(Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires, Malba)是拉美大陆上最好的美术馆之一。这座光线充足的现代建筑(门票售价阿根廷60比索,按9比索兑1美元计算,约合6.55美元)拥有富含生命力的永久藏品,所有作品均按时间顺序依次排列,并与对应的艺术运动相关联,绝对值得你驻足观赏。其中的重要作品包括阿根廷艺术家安东尼奥·伯尼(Antonio Berni)和弗里达·卡罗(Frida Kahlo)的大作。这里的临展几乎总是让人思绪万千(如果你想吃点点心,馆内咖啡馆的可颂面包可是上佳美味)。

2. Perfumes in Palermo | 6 p.m.

2. 巴勒莫的香水:下午6:00

Casa Cavia is a complex — restaurant, cafe, bar, garden, bookstore and florist — in a two-story home that dates to 1927 and has been remodeled into a stunning indoor-outdoor space that’s a harbinger of the new Buenos Aires design aesthetic: modern with a tip of the hat to retro. Pop in for a peek at the grand interior — high ceilings, arched doorways and Art Deco-inspired furniture — then walk through the garden to the perfumery, where more than 100 fragrances are on display, from passionfruit to the signature “Biblioteca de Babel” scent, a homage to Jorge Luis Borges and a nod to the publishing house on the second floor.

Casa Cavia是一处提供综合性体验的场所——餐厅、咖啡馆、酒吧、花园、书店和花店,建筑共分两层,原为建于1927年的一栋住宅,现已改造成一处令人目不转睛的室内室外连通式空间,成为新式布宜诺斯艾利斯设计美学的实践先驱:在保留现代感的同时也向复古风格致敬。进来瞄上几眼这里的壮观装潢——高耸的天花板,拱形大门,还有受装饰艺术风格启发的家具;然后穿过花园,走到香水店,这里陈列着100多种香水,从百香果香,到该店标志性的“巴别图书馆”(Biblioteca de Babel)香,后者是一款向豪尔赫·路易斯·博尔赫斯(Jorge Luis Borges)致敬的香水,也与二楼的出版社遥相呼应。

3. Coffee and Wine | 7:30 p.m.

3. 咖啡与红酒:晚上7:30

Argentines stay out late, so fortify yourself with a caffeine stop at LAB Tostadores de Cafe, a roastery and one of the best of Buenos Aires’s new crop of modern coffee shops, where espresso is served in an industrial chic interior. Then stroll four blocks up Calle Gorriti, a popular shopping street, to Ser y Tiempo, a dimly lit wine bar that opened in 2014. A blind taste test of three excellent Argentine wines (200 pesos) is conducted on its own or over dinner, and will help you learn to distinguish a torrontés from a chardonnay. It’s also a wine shop, so stock up here on lesser-known local vintages. If you’re looking for something more casual, stop at the nearby Trova, which offers themed flights (“Argentine Malbecs,” “Summer”), almost all Argentine (flights from 65 to 110 pesos).

阿根廷人都喜欢在外面待到很晚才回家,所以不妨到LAB Tostadores de Cafe补充些咖啡因提提神,这里是布宜诺斯艾利斯新一代现代咖啡馆中最棒的一间,可让你在充满工业风格的时尚环境中品尝一杯意式浓缩咖啡。接着走过四个街区,沿着当地的热门商业街Calle Gorriti,走到Ser y Tiempo,这是一间灯光幽暗的红酒吧,2014年开业。你可以选择在餐后或者单独盲品三种上佳的阿根廷葡萄酒(200比索),这能帮你学会如何区分特浓情(torrontés)与霞多丽(chardonnay)。这里也出售葡萄酒,所以不妨在这里囤些比较小众的当地精酿葡萄酒。如果想要找个更加随意的去处,可以在附近的Trova稍作逗留,这里提供不同主题的品酒会(“阿根廷马尔贝克”、“盛夏”),几乎俱为阿根廷出产(品酒会价格65~110比索)。

4. Modern Argentina | 10:30 p.m.

4. 现代阿根廷:晚上10:30

Head to the quietly trending Colegiales neighborhood for dinner (around 1,300 pesos with wine for two) at Astor Manduque Porteño (the name translates, roughly, to “where locals eat”). The chef Antonio Soriano is a leading light of the new school of Argentine cooking, and his oft-changing menu is packed with creative dishes, which recently included blood sausage tempura and a salad of beef tongue. There are just eight dishes on offer at any one time, and diners can opt to try three, five or all of the choices, with course size diminishing proportionately. Add the wine pairing, which doesn’t skimp on quality or quantity.

前往低调时尚的科勒加勒斯(Colegiales),在餐厅Astor Manduque Porteño(翻译过来大致就是“本地人用餐的地方”)享用晚餐(双人晚餐含葡萄酒售价1,300比索左右)。主厨安东尼奥·索里亚诺(Antonio Soriano)是新派阿根廷料理的领军人物,定期更换的菜单上列满了各式创意料理,最近更有血肠天妇罗(blood sausage tempura)和牛舌沙拉。这里每餐只供应八道料理,晚餐可以任选其中的三道、五道或全部,每道菜的份量会随之相应减少。建议加上配餐葡萄酒,无论品质还是份量都充满诚意。

Saturday

星期六

5. Coffee at Cao | 10 a.m.

5. 百年咖啡:早上10:00

Many of Buenos Aires’s legendary bar-cum-cafes, or bares notables, with their career waiters and queues for tables, are packed with tourists. Make the journey to San Cristóbal, a residential neighborhood with its own landmark bar that dates back to 1915, Bar de Cao. Here you’ll find glass-fronted cabinets stuffed with bottles, hanging legs of jamón and original wooden fixtures, with a minimum of tourists. Sit by the sunny windows, order café con leche (23 pesos) and a medialuna croissant (7 pesos). But save room for lunch.

布宜诺斯艾利斯有许多充满传奇色彩的酒吧咖啡馆,也就是西班牙语所说的“百年荣誉咖啡馆”(bares notables),馆里为客人提供服务的都是职业侍者,常常需要排队等餐,时时刻刻宾客盈门。让我们顺道去圣克里斯托巴尔(San Cristóbal)一游,这处住宅区内拥有自己的地标酒吧——创建年代可以一直追溯到1915年的Bar de Cao。在这里你会看到摆满瓶子的玻璃柜台,悬挂的火腿(jamón)和原木装置,游客却是少之又少。在阳光明媚的窗边坐下,点一杯咖啡欧蕾(café con leche)(23比索)和一块月牙可颂(7比索)。但是记得为午餐留点肚子。

6. Leisurely Lunch | 12:30 p.m.

6. 丰盛午餐:中午12:30

Build up an appetite with a walk down Avenida Independencia, a busy street lined with shops and cafes, humming with the hustle and bustle of everyday life in the capital. Stop at Aramburu Bis, the more informal second restaurant of the superstar chef Gonzalo Aramburu. His much fancier Aramburu is around the corner, but the Bis version, with its country store aesthetic, is one of the best restaurants in town (tasting menu lunch for two, with wine pairing, 1,100 pesos). Every dish is perfectly executed, like the starter of beef tartare adorned with the yolk of a quail’s egg, mustard ice cream and a miniature fry basket of shoestring potatoes. The wine list includes selections from up-and-coming Mendoza wineries — add the wine pairing to your tasting menu and plan on a three-hour lunch.

先沿着独立大道(Avenida Independencia)漫步一段来开开胃,这是一条繁忙的街道,两旁排满了商店和咖啡馆,应和着阿根廷首都日常生活中的繁华与喧闹。到Aramburu Bis门前时停下脚步,这里算是超级大厨贡萨洛·阿兰布鲁(Gonzalo Aramburu)玩票性质的第二间餐厅。他那间更为豪华的Aramburu就在附近街角处,但是这间Aramburu Bis焕发出一种乡间小店式的美感,也是当地最好的餐厅之一(特选菜单的双人午餐含葡萄酒售价1100比索)。每一道菜的制作都很完美,开胃菜是鞑靼牛肉,饰以鹌鹑蛋黄、芥末冰淇淋和一小篮炸土豆条。酒单精选了数家门多萨(Mendoza)的酒厂新秀——在你的特选菜单中加上配餐葡萄酒,用心享受一顿长达三个小时的午餐吧。

7. Afternoon Tango | 4:30 p.m.

7. 午后探戈:下午4:30

Tango is less popular than Argentina’s tourism materials would have you believe, but no one has told the over-60 crowd. Check out the dedicated dancers at La Milonga de los Consagrados (55 pesos to enter, one-drink minimum), where the seniors keep the dance floor packed, working their moves to music, which, though played on a computer, sounds as if it’s coming from a Victrola. Along one side of the dance hall, which exudes faded grandeur, men sit at tables trying to catch the eye of a potential partner on the other side. Taking photos is frowned upon (this is a local activity, not a tourist event), so sit back with a glass of champagne (26 pesos) and enjoy the show.

探戈并没有阿根廷的旅游宣传中所描述的那么流行,但并不包括60岁以上的老人。看看La Milonga de los Consagrados(门票55比索,最低消费一杯酒水)里的专注舞者吧,这里的舞池挤满了老年人,努力配合着音乐踏出舞步,音乐虽然是用电脑播放,听上去却带有一种留声机的质感。在壮丽半褪的舞厅一侧,人们坐在桌旁,努力捕捉着身在另一侧的潜在舞伴的目光。这里并不欢迎拍照(这是本地活动,不是旅游节目),所以坐下来喝杯香槟(26比索),尽情享受表演就好。

8. Live at the Power Plant | 8 p.m.

8. 发电厂现场:晚上8:00

Once an electric power plant, the Usina del Arte was reopened as the city’s most impressive arts space in 2012 in La Boca, a portside postindustrial neighborhood, and it now hosts art exhibitions and an eclectic range of live music in two beautiful auditoriums. Performances range from the Buenos Aires Philharmonic to big band tunes to poetry/music combos, so check the website, usinadelarte.org, ahead of time. It’s also worth visiting during the day for a tour (free, 45 minutes) of the building’s striking Florentine Renaissance-style exterior and beautifully reformatted interior.

植物艺术(Usina del Arte)坐落于港口附近的后工业社区——博卡区(La Boca),早年这里是一座发电厂,2012年时重装开张,成为这座城市里最令人惊艳的艺术空间,两间漂亮的礼堂现在举办着艺术展和流派类型兼收并蓄的现场音乐会。演出方既有布宜诺斯艾利斯爱乐乐团(Buenos Aires Philharmonic),也有大型爵士乐队,更有配乐诗朗诵,记得提前查看网站usinadelarte.org上的演出信息。白天也很值得来这里参观(免费,45分钟),沿用佛罗伦萨文艺复兴时期风格的外观设计和整修后的精美内部,保管教你目不转睛。

9. Steak and Sweetbreads | 10 p.m.

9. 牛排与牛杂:晚上10:00

Going to an Argentine parrillada (barbecue restaurant) is practically compulsory here, but eschew the huge, tourist-filled dining rooms and book-long menus of the old standbys like Don Julio’s or Parrilla Peña and head instead to La Carniceria. This 24-seat modern parrillada opened in late 2014 and usually has just two (enormous) steaks on the menu, along with a roster of traditional starters brought into the 21st century (dinner for two, around 750 pesos). The beef comes from the owner’s farm and is smoked in-house, and the chorizo is homemade. Try the sweetbreads, which are glazed with honey and surrounded by kernels of corn.

到阿根廷式烧烤餐厅(parrillada)下馆子,几乎是这里的固定节目,不过躲开Don Julio’s或Parrilla Peña那类餐室开阔、人头攒动、菜单厚得像书一样的常规去处,改去La Carniceria试试吧。这间共有24个座位的现代烧烤餐厅于2014年下半年开张,菜单上通常只有两种(超大)牛排可选,还有各色各样加入了21世纪特色的传统开胃小吃(双人晚餐售价750比索左右)。牛肉出自餐厅老板自己开的农场,经过熏制,还有餐厅自制的西班牙辣香肠(chorizo)。试试这里的牛杂,上面裹了一层蜂蜜并沾满了谷粒。

10. Party in Secret | 12 a.m.

10. 秘密派对:午夜12:00

Nights out in Buenos Aires can last until 6 a.m. — too long for just one bar. Hit up several, sampling the best of the city’s speakeasy culture at bares secretos. Start at Frank’s, making sure to grab the password from the bar’s Facebook page ahead of time (it’s hinted at in the daily post, your first guess is usually right). Give the password to the bouncer, who will direct you to a phone booth; dial the number he gives you; a door will open, and you’re in a long bar full of people drinking some of the city’s best cocktails (around 100 pesos). Ask the dapper bartenders for a Bison TT (vodka, green tea, ginger syrup), and people-watch from a red velvet sofa before moving on to Victoria Brown. Walk through the streetside cafe and open the door in the brick wall at the back. Inside is a steampunk fantasyland, with bartenders who mix drinks like the Desde Cuba Con Amor (120 pesos), a combination of aged rum, citrus and bitters that is literally smoking. Then get a modern take on Argentina’s traditional love of bitters at 878, a popular speakeasy. The dimly lit main bar is usually packed, but if you push through a door in the far wall, you’ll find another, somewhat quieter bar.

布宜诺斯艾利斯的夜生活可以一直持续到清晨6点——这么长的时间可不能只耗在一间酒吧里。在此精选几间,作为这座城市“地下酒吧”(bares secretos)文化的代表。首先是Frank’s,一定要记得提前从酒吧的Facebook主页上找出密码(会在每天发布的帖子中有所暗示,基本上你的第一直觉就是对的)。将密码告知门卫,他会把你带到一座电话亭前;拨打他给你的号码;大门打开,此时你便置身于一间人满为患的酒吧长廊,与大家一起饮用这座城市内最棒的鸡尾酒(100比索左右)。让衣着整洁的调酒师为你调一杯Bison TT(以伏特加、绿茶、生姜糖浆调成),坐在红色的天鹅绒沙发上观赏一下这里的人群,然后移步至Victoria Brown。走过街边的咖啡馆,打开后面砖墙上的一扇门。里面藏着一个蒸汽朋克风格的幻想世界,调酒师们会用陈年朗姆、柑橘和苦酒调出一杯杯的Desde Cuba Con Amor(120比索),它们真的会冒烟。然后到人气地下酒吧“878”,来一杯阿根廷传统苦酒调出的现代酒品。这里光线昏暗的酒吧大堂通常挤满了客人,但如果你推开远处墙上的另一扇门,就会发现另一间多少安静一些的酒吧。

Sunday

星期日

11. From Peru, With Love | Noon

11. 秘鲁敬献:中午

After a late night, do like the locals and have a leisurely Sunday lunch. Porteños were waiting with bated breath for La Mar to open, which it did in April 2015, thanks to the reputation of its celebrity chef Gastón Acurio. The Peruvian trendsetter’s Palermo Hollywood cebichería is sleek, with a spacious patio. Tuck into the degustación de ceviches, three flavorful ceviches, some served in their own fishy marinade known as leche de tigre. Add a couple of causas — dollops of mashed yellow potato topped with everything from olive cream to raw salmon (lunch for two, around 600 pesos).

通宵狂欢过后,一定要像当地人一样,享受一顿悠闲的周日午餐。令布宜诺斯艾利斯人翘首期待已久的La Mar,终于在今年4月份盛大开业,这全要归因于这间餐厅的明星主厨加斯顿·阿克瑞奥(Gastón Acurio)头顶的光环。这间引领潮流的秘鲁料理餐厅位于巴勒莫好莱坞区,装潢优美,拥有一间宽敞的庭院。大吃一顿酸橘汁腌鱼套餐(degustación de ceviches),总共包含三条入味的酸橘汁腌鱼,有的还腌在一种餐厅自制的鱼香腌料“老虎奶”(leche de tigre)中。再来几块causa:一坨黄色的土豆泥,淋上包括橄榄奶油和生三文鱼在内的各种浇头(双人午餐售价600比索左右)。

12. The Sport of Kings | 2 p.m.

12. 王族运动:下午2:00

At any given time, seven of the eight best polo players in the world hail from Argentina, and the sport is experiencing a revival of sorts, at least according to the ultra-charming Ezequiel Moreno of Polo Tour. He runs half-day polo lessons (1,400 pesos, includes transportation) at the sprawling Estancia La Martina belonging to polo’s foremost dynasty, the Cambiaso family, where you’ll learn how to ride a horse, whack the ball with a mallet and do both at the same time, all in lush green environs just 40 minutes from the city center.

无论什么时期,世界上最好的八名马球选手中,总有七名来自阿根廷,而今这项运动正在经历着某种复兴,至少在马球巡回赛(Polo Tour)中格外魅力四射的埃塞基耶尔·莫雷诺(Ezequiel Moreno)看来确然如此。他在占地辽阔的拉马丁纳牧场(Estancia La Martina)开办时长半天的马球课(1,400比索,提供接送),这座牧场属于马球界的王朝豪门坎比亚索家族(Cambiaso family)所有,距离市中心仅有40分钟的路程,在这片郁郁葱葱的郊外天地内,你将会学习如何骑马奔驰,用木槌击球,以及如何同时完成这两个动作。

Lodging

住宿

The Glu Hotel. Despite the slightly off-putting name, the Glu (Godoy Cruz 1733; thegluhotel.com; doubles from $150) is a charmer: all the room are suites with comfy king-size beds, and the staff members are some of the friendliest and most helpful in the entire city.

格鲁精品酒店(The Glu Hotel)。格鲁酒店(Godoy Cruz 1733;thegluhotel.com;双人间150美元起)的名字听上去有点恶心,但却是处很有魅力的地方:所有的客房均为配有舒适大双人床的套间,酒店的员工也是全城最友善最乐于助人的人。

Fierro Hotel. With a great location in Palermo Hollywood, the Fierro (Soler 5862; fierrohotel.com; doubles from $129) is great value, with the amenities (pillow menu, Nespresso machines) of a much more expensive hotel. The suites, some with balconies, are spacious, and the ground-floor restaurant, Uco, does one of the best brunches in town.

费耶罗酒店(Fierro Hotel)。费耶罗酒店(Soler 5862;fierrohotel.com;双人间129美元起)坐落在巴勒莫好莱坞街区(Palermo Hollywood)上的一处绝佳地点,性价比极高,配备的设施(不同枕头可选,奈斯派索[Nespresso]咖啡机)都是远为更贵的酒店才会使用的。套间空间宽敞,有的还配备阳台,一楼餐厅Uco做出来的早午餐是全城最棒的。

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