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《星球大战》来到爱尔兰神秘小岛

更新时间:2015-12-20 9:26:42 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

‘Star Wars’ Fever Extends to an Ancient Irish Island
《星球大战》来到爱尔兰神秘小岛

On Ireland’s windswept west coast, the rare day of fine weather finds a few dozen intrepid tourists descending on the tiny fishing village of Portmagee. There, they board boats to one of the country’s most mystical places — Skellig Michael, an uninhabited pinnacle of rock some 50 minutes west through the rough swells of the Atlantic.

爱尔兰那被风扫过的西海岸。一个难得的好天,几十个无畏的游客突然闯入名为PORTMAGEE的小渔村。在那儿,他们乘船去岛国最为神秘的地方之一——SKELLING MICHAEL,距大西洋起伏隆起之地以西50分钟的一个无人居住的尖形岛礁。

Its remote location has kept the island, a Unesco site, under the radar — luring far fewer (and far more adventurous) souls than other Irish wonders with a high-wattage wow factor, such as the Cliffs of Moher. But now, its relative obscurity seems about to end in a blaze of silver-screen glory.

那处岛礁也由联合国教科文组织登记在册。与受某种吸引眼球因素所吸引的(例如:MOHERS悬崖)另一些爱尔兰漫游者们相比,以往,那个偏远的所在仅仅被很少的(同时也很富有冒险精神的)一些人所关注。可如今,那岛礁相对无名的状态似乎将在银幕荣耀的光焰中终结。

That became apparent in mid-September, when a man appeared in Portmagee who was no ordinary visitor. Locals whispered that he hailed from a galaxy far, far away — possibly as far away as Los Angeles. In the Bridge Bar, a pub overlooking the harbor, patrons fumbled for their cellphones to capture video as he pulled a pint of Guinness — tutored in the art by the barman, Ciaran Kelly. “It’s never too late to learn a new profession,” the stranger deadpanned. “Something to fall back on if this whole ‘Star Wars’ thing goes away.”

这种迹象出现在九月中旬,一个貌非普通访客的人出现在PORTMAGEE。当地人私下传说他来自遥远的银河系--很可能和洛杉矶一样遥远。在俯瞰港湾的名为THE BRIDGE的酒馆儿里,常客们掏出手机录下了,他在“艺术监导”--酒吧侍者CIARAN KELLY督导下,倒了一品脱GUINNESS的情景。“学习一门新的职业永远不会太晚。”陌生人面无表情地说,“等那《星球大战》都拍完了就有事可做了。”

Villagers who knew their Jedi from their Sith recognized him as Mark Hamill, forever famous for playing Luke Skywalker in the original “Star Wars” film trilogy. He and a battalion of Hollywood directors, cameramen and crew launched a space invasion, of sorts, on Portmagee last summer and the summer of 2014 — filling bed-and-breakfasts to the brim, turning sheep pastures into helipads and hiring fishing boats to ferry props to Skellig Michael.

从SITH而知晓(《星球大战》的)绝地武士的村民们认出他是MARK HAMILL,凭籍在《星球大战》三部曲中,一直扮演天行者LUKE而闻名。2014年和2015年的夏季,在PORTMAGEE他和大批的好莱坞导演,摄影师和剧组成员发动了“星际入侵”——渔村成了“提供住宿和早餐”的所在,把牧羊场也变为直升机机场,还雇渔船把道具运往SKELLIG MICHAEL.

Though Lucasfilm, which is owned by Disney, is tight-lipped on details, the island most likely will be featured in “Star Wars: The Force Awakens,” set to hit theaters Dec. 18, and another “Star Wars” film scheduled for 2017, according to press reports.

尽管卢卡斯影音公司为迪斯尼所拥有,却对拍摄详情三缄其口。人们只知道该岛很可能将为《星球大战--原力觉醒》的拍摄地,影片将于12月18日公映。据报道,另一部《星球大战》影片也将于2017年开拍。

Fan websites have been abuzz with speculation about Skellig Michael’s role in the movies. The smart money has the island standing in as an exile or refuge for Skywalker, just as it did some 1,500 years ago, when a band of early Christian monks retreated from civilization to worship God from the island’s precipitous peaks.

网上粉丝们早已就SKELLIG MICHAEL在片中会饰演什么角色而热烈地猜测。人们为猜测该岛是天行者的流放地和避难所而下注,这就像1500年前一样,当时一帮从文明社会隐退而来此的早期基督徒,在陡峭的山峰上敬拜上帝。

After braving the 11-mile passage across choppy seas, the monks carved hundreds of steps into Skellig Michael’s cliff face and, at the top, built a walled monastery complex — still marvelously intact — on a terraced shelf 600 feet above the churning sea.

僧侣们勇敢地渡过波涛汹涌的海面11里长的通道后,开凿了上百个通往SKELLIG MICHAEL悬崖立面的石阶,在悬崖顶建造了有围墙的修道院院落--至今依然奇迹般完好无损地,在距翻卷涌动的海面600英尺高的,呈台阶式地基上岿然屹立。

Entranced by Skellig Michael since my first visit as a tourist in 1997, I returned to Portmagee in the summer, nabbing the last seat on the Myra Michelle, one of 13 boats licensed to ferry passengers to the island. After the boat cleared the harbor and we hit the open Atlantic, I ducked into the wheelhouse to talk to the boatman, Declan O’Driscoll.

1997年我作为游客首次到此,就被SKELLIG MICHAEL迷住了。今夏我又重返PORTMAGEE,抢到MYRA MICHELLE号渡船的最后一个座位,那是往返小岛有资质的13艘轮渡中的一艘。当渡船离开港湾,驶向一望无际的大西洋时,我很快地跑到驾驶室跟船员DECLAN O’Driscoll聊上了。

Like many in Portmagee, he had signed a nondisclosure agreement, giving up the right to dish details of the filming. But you’d sooner keep a Wookiee from roaring than an Irishman from regaling a willing audience, and soon Mr. O’Driscoll was dishing away. “A bunch of us boatmen were standing around, and Mark Hamill came over,” he recalled. “He said, ‘Any advice for climbing the stairs?’ We told him, ‘Just pace yourself, and don’t ever, ever look down.’”

和PORTMAGEE的其他人一样,他签了一份保密协议,放弃透露影片拍摄细节的权利。但是让爱尔兰人满足好奇的听众的时间比阻止(《星球大战》中的)伍基人的怒吼来得更快些。不久O’Driscoll先生什么都说了。他回忆道:“我们一伙人站在那儿,MARK HAMILL走了过来,他问道,你们对爬那些石阶有什么建议吗?”我们对他说:“调整好脚步,永远别往下看。”

Before long, I was facing that same, fearsome stairway — 618 steep, uneven stone steps winding heavenward, the only route to the monastery. The stairway offers almost no hand rails or safety guards, and many visitors are struck with paralyzing fear on the ascent. With the knowledge that two American tourists fell to their deaths while negotiating the stairs in 2009, I took each step slowly, one by one, wielding a walking stick for balance. At the top, I exhaled with relief, then ducked my head under a massive stone lintel and stepped into the monastery site itself.

不久,我就站在那令人生畏的618阶,坑洼不平,蜿蜒通向天际的台阶上了。那是通往修道院唯一的路径。石阶旁几乎没有手扶栏或者其他安全防护,很多游客在攀爬途中都被吓得僵住了。还清楚地记得:2009年两个美国游客在协商时,坠落身亡,我每迈一步都很缓慢,拄着手杖借以保持平衡。在崖顶,我释然地长舒了一口气,低头避过一方巨石门楣,才步入了修道院。

There was something mournful and beautiful about it all: the six beehive-shaped monastic cells huddled together, two boat-shaped oratories, as well as crude stone crosses, serving as grave markers, and the ruins of a medieval church. The views over the Atlantic were endless, and gulls and gannets soared and dived, their cries echoing with either anguished loneliness or triumphant salvation, possibly a bit of both. No wonder George Bernard Shaw, following a visit in 1910, described Skellig Michael this way: “I hardly feel real again … I tell you, the thing does not belong to any world that you and I have lived and worked in: It is part of our dream world.”

修道院呈现出她的感伤和凄美来:六个蜂巢状的修道士监舍簇聚在一起,两间船形的祈祷室,还有作为墓地标志的,粗粝石质的十字架,一座中世纪教堂的废墟。大西洋浩渺无际,海鸥和塘鹅时而在空中翱翔时而潜入水中。鸟儿的哀鸣声久久回荡着,带着抑或是痛苦的孤寂抑或是胜利的救赎,两者皆有也未可知。无怪乎1910年,萧伯纳参观后这样描述SKELLIG MICHAEL:“真是难以相信:我觉得这儿不属于你我生活过,工作过的任何世界,这儿是我们梦中世界的一部分。”

On the ride back to Portmagee, Mr. O’Driscoll told me, “The ‘Star Wars’ people spent a lot of time in the monastery.” I imagined Luke Skywalker in one of the dank beehive cells, crouching as the monks had centuries before, marooned on the island with his demons.

在返回PORTMAGEE轮渡上,O’Driscoll先生告诉我:“《星球大战》剧组在修道院可是呆了很久。”我设想着天行者LUKE在阴暗潮湿的僧侣监舍内,就像几世纪前僧侣们那样蹲着,和他的魔鬼们一起被放逐在那岛上。

Will he be tempted toward the Dark Side on that inhospitable crag, I wondered as Skellig Michael shrank against the horizon. Whatever he finds there, it’s almost certain to be box-office gold.

SKELLIG MICHAEL消失在天际线尽头时我还猜测着:他会在那不适合人居的悬崖被黑暗武士诱惑吗?无论他在那里发现了什么,都将肯定是票房收入的满钵金。

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