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36小时感受“新”旧金山

更新时间:2015-12-8 10:15:07 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

36 Hours in San Francisco
36小时感受“新”旧金山

Don’t blink or you’ll miss the next “new” San Francisco. This is a city that’s reinventing itself with every refresh of your Twitter feed, with cranes rising all over downtown and an army of young tech workers pouring into neighborhoods across the city. In the ’60s, San Francisco was synonymous with the hippie counterculture; in the ’90s, it was the dot-com boom (and eventual bust, in the early 2000s); more recently, it was the ripening of the Bay Area food movement. Now it’s home to such new-establishment icons of the digital economy as Airbnb, Uber and, yes, Twitter. But don’t be fooled by the shiny patina: San Francisco is more than just the physical headquarters of our virtual world. There are some things that haven’t changed, and by themselves, are reason enough to revisit: the mind-boggling views along that glorious waterfront; the Mission’s still-feisty, freaky, welcome-all-comers character; the meandering natural pleasures of Golden Gate Park. Even when classic San Francisco rubs up against new San Francisco, the friction, though at times contentious (Google bus protests, the anti-eviction fight), is also where the community-conscious activist roots of this city are as vital and visible as ever.

别眨眼,否则你就会错过“下一秒的”旧金山。你的Twitter首页每刷新一次,这座城市就会自我更新一次。高耸的起重机遍布市区,年轻的科技工作者成群结队地涌入城市的各个角落。上世纪60年代,旧金山是“嬉皮反主流文化”的代名词;到了90年代,这里成为了网络爆炸的发源地(这股热潮最终在21世纪初衰落);近年,湾区的食品运动在这里发展成熟。如今,旧金山是新兴数字经济的大本营,其中的代表包括Airbnb、Uber,当然还有Twitter。不过,别被它光鲜的外表蒙蔽了:旧金山不仅仅是网络虚拟世界的“实体总部”。这里仍有一些始终没变的元素,而这些元素足以成为你故地重游的理由:海滨沿岸令人惊叹的壮丽景色;教会区(Mission)那依旧活跃、古怪又好客的个性;漫步于金门公园(Golden Gate Park),体会大自然的乐趣。当传统与现代碰撞之时,尽管这些摩擦有时存在争议(比如抵制谷歌员工班车、反驱逐运动),但这正是这座城市中具有社区意识的激进分子的根基所在,它的重要性和显著性也从未消减。

Friday

星期五

1. City by the Bay | 4 p.m.

1. 海滨漫步:下午4:00

Make time for a stroll along the Embarcadero, San Francisco’s quintessential bayside pedestrian promenade. Your starting point is just south of the Bay Bridge, at Red’s Java House on Pier 30. A no-frills waterfront dive the San Francisco Chronicle once called “the Chartres Cathedral of cheap eats,” Red’s has been around in some form or another since 1912, when longshoremen came for the cheeseburger-and-beer breakfast special. Nowadays, it’s a favorite stop for Giants fans on their way to a ballgame at AT&T Park, home to the 2010, 2012 and 2014 World Series champs. Join the cheerfully egalitarian crowd for a sourdough cheeseburger ($5.52) and a beer on the outdoor patio — it has a view that goes for miles.

留出时间去英巴卡迪诺(Embarcadero)散个步。这是旧金山最精华的一段海滨步行区。以海湾大桥(Bay Bridge)南端、也就是30号码头的Red’s Java House餐厅作为起点。这家朴实无华的小餐馆曾被《旧金山纪事报》(San Francisco Chronicle)誉为“实惠食物的沙特尔主教座堂(Chartres Cathedral)”。Red’s餐厅的历史要追溯到1912年,期间经历过不同形式的变迁。刚开业时,码头工人们来这里吃芝士汉堡配啤酒的早晨特餐。如今,这里成为了旧金山巨人队(Giants)的球迷们在去AT&T球场(AT&T Park)看比赛的路上最喜欢光顾的地方。该球场曾是2010年、2012年和2014年世界棒球冠军赛(World Series champs)的举办地。点一份酵母芝士汉堡(5.52美元)配啤酒,和这群热情的平等主义者们一起在户外露台上欣赏延绵不绝的海景。

San Francisco.
旧金山

2. To Market | 5:30 p.m.

2. 赶集去:下午5:30

It’s hard to believe that it’s been 12 years since the century-plus-old Ferry Building reopened as a grand marketplace and European-style food hall, after decades of blight and decay in the shadow of the former Embarcadero Freeway (which was taken down after the 1989 Loma Prieta earthquake). Though the Ferry Building has come to represent all the modern trends in the Bay Area food world, it hews to tradition with a thrice-weekly outdoor farmers’ market, plus indoor food stalls in former ferry berths; the butcher, the baker and the cheesemonger are all on hand to talk to you. Just browsing is a pleasure: It’s all eye candy, from the ceramics to the chocolate. And whatever your age, watching the ferries come and go never gets old.

难以置信,拥有超过百年历史的渡轮大厦(Ferry Building)已经重新开放12年了。这里现在是一个大型集市和欧洲风格的美食广场。在此之前,该大厦在英巴卡迪诺高速通道(Embarcadero Freeway)的阴影下(该通道在1989年洛馬普列塔[Loma Prieta]大地震后被拆除)经历了数十年的萎靡和衰败。尽管渡轮大厦引领着湾区的美食潮流,它也保留着每周开三天户外农贸市场的传统,在曾经的渡船码头还有室内的美食摊位;屠夫、糕点师、干酪店主都随时准备好跟你聊几句。哪怕只是随便逛逛也是一种乐趣:从陶瓷到巧克力,各类商品都令人大饱眼福。而且,无论你是什么年纪,看渡船来来往往永远都不算过时的活动。

3. Two Piers | 7 p.m.

3. 两个码头的晚餐:晚上7:00

Charles Phan, of Slanted Door fame, has shifted gears with Hard Water, a tiny, New Orleans-inflected whiskey bar and restaurant that opened in 2013 on Pier 3. The kitchen turns out a mean fried chicken — the better to soak up the powerful cocktails. Whiskey flights start at $22, and are a gentle intro to a deep list. For a heartier meal, head two piers over to Michael Chiarello’s Spanish-meets-California Coqueta, where the extraordinary paella — bomba rice with clams, shrimp, chorizo and broccolini in fragrant broth made from shellfish and jamón serrano, $45 — is enough to feed three.

2013年,Slanted Door餐厅的名主厨查尔斯·潘(Charles Phan)转换了风格,在3号码头开了一家新奥尔良风格的威士忌小餐吧。菜品以炸鸡为主——最好还是试试他家出名的鸡尾酒。威士忌套餐起价22美元,所选的酒都是温和的入门款。如果想吃点好的,再走两个码头,去名厨迈克尔·切洛(Michael Chiarello)的Coqueta 餐厅,这里融合了西班牙和加州风味。美妙的西班牙什锦饭——以邦巴米为底,浇上用贝类和塞拉诺火腿熬制的鲜美肉汤,里面有蛤肉、大虾、西班牙辣香肠及西兰花,售价45美元——一份足够三个人吃。

4. Nightcaps | 9 p.m.

4. 睡前酒:晚上9:00

A bar in the Mission is an appropriate place to end the night. At the divey, atmospheric Royal Cuckoo, great cocktails are the rule — try the Carnival Mule, with cachaça, ginger beer, Domaine de Canton, tangerine and lime — as is live music Wednesday through Sunday nights showcasing the house’s old-fashioned Hammond organ. Outdoor drinking is an option at Zeitgeist, a punk-spirited biergarten and neighborhood institution; its native population is heavy on the bikers and bike messengers. Don’t take selfies, or management might boot you out — service is gruff, and proud of it.

教会区(Mission)的酒吧最适合作为睡前消遣。地下风格的Royal Cuckoo富有情调,提供优质鸡尾酒是他们的原则——试试Carnival Mule,用巴西朗姆酒(cachaça)、姜汁啤酒、法国坎顿力娇酒(Domaine de Canton)、柑橘及青柠调制而成——酒吧从周三到周日每天晚上都有现场音乐表演,用的是酒吧里老式的电子琴。如果想在户外喝酒,Zeitgeist是个不错的选择,这是一家朋克风格的露天啤酒馆,靠近居民区;那里的原始居民很多是骑手或骑车的送信员。别在那儿自拍,不然经理可能会把你赶出去——服务态度粗暴,但他们引以为豪。

Saturday

星期六

5. Break Bread | 10 a.m.

5. 面包早餐:上午10:00

Along 24th Street in the Mission, Mexican bakeries are still where mornings begin. For just a dollar or two, pick up sugar-dusted pan dulce or custard-filled pastries with your coffee at La Mejor Bakery or Panaderia La Mexicana, and watch the neighborhood wake up. Then head south for a climb up over windswept Bernal Hill to the sprawling Alemany Farmers’ Market, said to be the oldest in the state of California, improbably situated near where Interstate 280 crosses Highway 101. The weekly market still offers the best cornucopia in the city: The greens alone regularly range from Chinese long beans, pea shoots and bok choy to dandelion, kale and mustard greens (about $5 for three bunches). Can’t fix what ain’t broke.

在教会区的第24街上,墨西哥面包房始终是一天开始的地方。只要花一到两美元,就能在La Mejor Bakery或Panaderia La Mexicana买个裹着糖粉的甜面包,或卡仕达奶油夹心的酥皮点心,喝着咖啡,看周围慢慢苏醒。然后往南走,爬上风大的贝尔纳尔高地(Bernal Hill),整块区域都是阿勒马尼农贸市场(Alemany Farmers’ Market)——据说是加州最古老的农贸市场,位置有些特别,在208号州际公路和101号国道交界附近。市场每周开放一天,这里的蔬果仍然是旧金山最好的:单是绿色蔬菜,常见的就有中国豇豆、豌豆苗、小白菜、蒲公英,羽衣甘蓝和芥菜(大约5美元可以买三捆)。简直无可挑剔。

6. Picnic in the Park | 12 p.m.

6. 公园野餐:中午12:00

Bring your provisions for a picnic at the newly spiffed-up Dolores Park, where an $8 million renovation made over the northern half of the park with new tennis courts; six acres of fresh, grassy splendor; and expanded restrooms (this last is critical to a comfortable afternoon). The other half of the park will get similar treatment in the coming year. What hasn’t changed: the diverse crush of humanity, and the excellent vistas of the San Francisco skyline.

带着你的食物去装饰一新的多洛雷斯公园(Dolores Park)野餐吧。耗资800万美元的翻新工程之后,公园的北半部多了几个新的网球场、一片6英亩(约2.4万平方米)的清新草坪,还有宽敞的洗手间(最后这项对于“一个舒适的下午”来说极为重要)。明年,在公园的另一半也会进行类似的整修,但始终如一的是这里形形色色的拥挤人群,和旧金山天际线的壮丽景观。

7. The People’s Art | 1:30 p.m.

7. 人民的艺术:下午1:30

Take stock of the Mission’s murals with Precita Eyes, a neighborhood arts organization that has been sponsoring local and international mural projects and offering classes for nearly four decades. Docents lead weekly mural walks ($20, with discounts for students and seniors) through alleys and streets dense with color, and add stories and context to ever-shifting images that comment on everything from human rights to Hurricane Katrina.

和Precita Eyes一起盘点教会区的壁画。在将近四十年里,这个艺术组织一直赞助本地及国际的壁画项目,并开设课程。有讲解员带领每周一次的壁画导览(门票:20美元,学生及长者有优惠),走过这些色彩密集的小巷和街道,为大家讲述壁画的故事和背景。这些壁画千变万化,探讨从人权到卡特里娜飓风的各种主题。

8. Two Ways to Taste | 7 p.m.

8. 东西风味晚餐:晚上7:00

Put yourself in the expert hands of some of the Mission’s best neighborhood chefs. At Ichi Sushi & Ni Bar’s airy new space, request a seat at the bar for omakase, or chef’s choice, and be entertained by the jewel-toned march of seafood across your plate — perhaps wild salmon, sweet shrimp heads and lightly seared saba (about $65 for 12 pieces). Or try the three-course menu and wine pairing at Heirloom Cafe ($65), an elegant neighborhood spot that might smartly present a bavette steak and maitake mushrooms with a malbec. At both establishments, fresh, simple dishes and friendly service are standouts, and the price is right.

把自己的胃交给教会区最棒的厨子们吧。在Ichi Sushi & Ni Bar通透的新空间找个位子,来一份“拜托料理”(omakase)(注:无菜单,由厨师来定)或厨师精选,让整盘宝石色调的海鲜来款待你——也许会有野生鲑鱼、甜虾的头以及轻火炙鯖魚(12件大约65美元)。或者去Heirloom Café品尝三道菜配葡萄酒的套餐(65美元),这家雅致的教会区餐厅可能会为你奉上牛排(腰腹部细肉)配舞菇和一杯马尔贝克红酒(malbec)。这两家餐厅新鲜简约的菜品和友好的服务都是数一数二,而且价格合理。

9. One for the Team | 9 p.m.

9. 保龄之夜:晚上9:00

Bring friends for a game or two at the Mission Bowling Club, the city’s first new bowling alley in 40 years when it opened in 2012. The owners, Sommer Peterson and Molly Bradshaw, wanted to conjure the intimate, friendly neighborhood alley of their youth — but with really good food (and sans fluorescent lighting). They’ve succeeded. Two of the six lanes are held for drop-ins most nights, but you’ll probably want to make a reservation (reservations can be made a week ahead, $35 to $55 per lane per hour).

带上你的朋友们,去教会区保龄球俱乐部(Mission Bowling Club)打上一两局。这是旧金山近40年来的第一家新保龄球馆,于2012年开业。老板索默·彼得森(Sommer Peterson)和莫莉·布拉德肖(Molly Bradshaw)最初是想为社区的青少年打造一个温馨友好的保龄球馆——但要有好吃的食物(不要荧光灯)。他们成功了。在大多数晚间,六条球道中有两条是为临时访客保留的,但你可能也需要预约(提前一周接受预约,每球道每小时35美元到55美元不等)。

Sunday

星期日

10. Bookworms Welcome | 10 a.m.

10. 欢迎书虫:上午10:00

First there was Green Apple Books: Opened in 1967, it’s a literary institution. Now there’s Green Apple Books on the Park, perfectly situated for a morning browse along the Inner Sunset’s Ninth Avenue, just south of Golden Gate Park. Don’t be fooled by the narrow storefront — the shop reaches far into the interior space, and is big enough to be anchored by a dedicated children’s area. Like its sister store, it also hosts events featuring an impressive lineup of writers, including such recent guests as Karl Ove Knausgaard, Maggie Nelson, Aleksandar Hemon and Molly Antopol. Afterward, stroll down the street and into Urban Bazaar to browse fair-trade and quirky, locally made gifts — belts made from old bike tires, screen-printed owl tea towels — and admire the boutique’s charming little air plant and succulent nursery.

最早的青苹果书店(Green Apple Books)于1967年开业,是一家文学书店。现在又有了一家“在公园的青苹果书店”(Green Apple Books on the Park),很适合早上去逛逛。书店位于内日落区(Inner Sunset)的第九大道,金门公园(Golden Gate Park)的南边。别看它门面小——内部空间却十分宽敞,甚至还开辟出了一块固定的儿童专用区。和它的姐妹店一样,这里也会举办一些有名作家参与的活动,最近来过的有卡尔·奥韦·诺斯加德(Karl Ove Knausgaard)、麦琪·尼尔逊(Maggie Nelson)、亚历山大·埃蒙(Aleksandar Hemon),以及莫莉·安托波尔(Molly Antopol)。从书店出来,沿第九大道向前走,去Urban Bazaar杂货店逛逛。这是一家以公平贸易为主的商店,出售千奇百怪的本地手工艺品——用旧自行车轮胎做的腰带、丝网印刷的猫头鹰茶巾——还能欣赏到商店里迷人的空气绿植和多肉植物。

11. Seasonal Tastes | 11:30 a.m.

11. 时令美餐:上午11:30

For a leisurely brunch, head to the sun-warmed back patio of Nopalito, a branch of Divisadero’s beloved Nopa, for brightly flavored, vibrant Mexican: squash-blossom quesadilla, pork-shoulder pozole, and peach, avocado and lettuce salad with pumpkin seeds and cotija cheese (brunch for two about $45). Or for on-the-go noshing, stop at the worker-owned-and--run Arizmendi Bakery for the excellent daily pizza: always vegetarian, always changing, always available by the slice ($2.50, and it comes with a little bonus sliver) or pie.

要想吃个悠闲的午餐,就去Nopalito餐厅那充满阳光的后院。这是那家深受欢迎的餐厅——位于Divisadero街的Nopa的分店,主打风味明快、充满活力的墨西哥菜:莴瓜花炸玉米粉饼、猪肩玉米粒肉汤,以及混合了桃、牛油果、生菜的沙拉配南瓜籽和科提加芝士(二人早午餐的价格大约是45美元)。如果只想随便吃点,就去工人自营的Arizmendi面包房买美味的当日披萨:全素食,种类经常变化,可以整张买,也可以按片买(每片2.5美元,还会额外给一小块)。

12. In Residence | 1 p.m.

12. 驻场艺术家:下午1:00

Every month, the de Young Museum in Golden Gate Park invites a new artist-in-residence to install art and work with the public during set hours at the museum’s Kimball Education Gallery (free, 1 to 5 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday, plus Friday evenings until 8:45 p.m.). Recent artists have included Shawn Feeney, an artist and musician whose “Musical Anatomy” series featured an inventive tuning-fork helmet that visitors could wear — while he was playing it. In October, the San Francisco artist Carlo Abruzzese transformed census data into meticulous architectural paintings.

每个月,金门公园内的笛洋美术馆(de Young Museum)都会邀请一位新的驻场艺术家,在固定时间段于美术馆的金伯尔教育画廊(Kimball Education Gallery)和公众一起安装艺术作品(免费,星期三到星期日下午1点到5点,星期五下午1点到晚上8点45分)。近期入驻过的艺术家包括肖恩·菲尼(Shawn Feeney),这位艺术家兼音乐家的“音乐解剖学”(“Musical Anatomy”)系列作品中有一个创意十足的“音叉头盔”——参观者可以佩戴,同时他会用头盔来演奏。十月,旧金山艺术家卡罗·阿布鲁泽斯(Carlo Abruzzese)把人口普查数据变成了一系列严谨细致的建筑绘画。

Lodging

住宿

Stay at the playful, tech-savvy Hotel Zetta (55 Fifth Street; hotelzetta.com; from $163.20), well situated downtown in SoMa and near the Powell Street BART station; it’s Viceroy Hotels’ first San Francisco property and home to the Cavalier, a modern British-style gastro pub by the local restaurateur-chef team Anna Weinberg and Jennifer Puccio.

可以选择有趣而精通科技的泽塔酒店(Hotel Zetta)(第5街55号;hotelzetta.com;每晚起价163.2美元)。酒店位置极佳,在市中心的市场街南区(SoMa),附近就是鲍威尔街(Powell Street)的BART车站;该酒店是总督酒店集团(Viceroy Hotels)旗下在旧金山的首个物业,主打“骑士精神”,里面有一家现代风格的英式餐吧,由本地主厨团队安娜·温伯格(Anna Weinberg)和詹妮弗·普奇奥(Jennifer Puccio)主理。

Or try the Buchanan (1800 Sutter Street; thebuchananhotel.com; from $140), the latest revamp from Kimpton Hotels, with 131 minimalist, Japanese-influenced rooms close to Pacific Heights and Japantown.

或者试试布坎南(Buchanan)(沙特街[Sutter Street]1800号;thebuchananhotel.com;每晚起价140美元),这是金普顿酒店集团(Kimpton Hotels)最新改建的酒店,有131间极简风格的日式房间,离太平洋高地(Pacific Heights)和日本城(Japantown)很近。

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