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用一个周末,把东京东走透透

更新时间:2015-11-19 18:50:29 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

36 Hours in Eastern Tokyo
用一个周末,把东京东走透透

One of the most daunting cities for foreign visitors, Tokyo is a manic, hyperactive assault on the senses. But steady your focus and you’ll notice that a distinct strand of traditional elements also weaves through the Japanese capital. Even without leaving Eastern Tokyo, here defined as the area east of the Imperial Palace, a visitor can experience the enormous breadth of what this mesmerizing metropolis has to offer. From boutiques blooming in abandoned spaces to new ramen shops taking root amid glittering high-rises, Eastern Tokyo promises — now more than ever — to leave even experienced travelers wide-eyed with wonder.

对外国游客而言,东京是世界上最令人眼花缭乱的城市之一,喧哗躁动不断冲击着感官。但是定睛观察,你会发现日本首都也有一丝鲜明的传统元素交织在其中。即便只停留在东京东部地区(指皇居[Imperial Palace]以东的区域),游客也能体验到这座迷人的大都市非同一般的多样性。这里有让废弃空间重焕生机的精品店,也有扎根在璀璨高楼中的新拉面馆。如今,东京东部比以往任何时候都更令人大开眼界,即使是经验丰富的旅行者也会有惊喜。

Kabuki-za, the city’s premier Kabuki theater.
歌舞伎座(Kabuki-za),东京最顶级的歌舞伎剧场。

Friday

星期五

1. Under the Tracks | 2 p.m.

1. 铁轨下的创意空间:下午2:00

In this densely built-up city, it takes ingenuity to create commercial space where none existed. That’s part of the appeal of Maach Ecute Kanda Manseibashi, a handsome riverside complex that opened in 2013 under the red-brick viaduct of the historic Manseibashi railway station, which had been closed since 1943. After browsing the handful of shops selling everything from bamboo matcha whisks to printed handkerchiefs, ascend the old staircase to watch Chuo line trains rumble mere feet from either side of the rooftop cafe N3331, set between the tracks. For another example of creative repurposing, explore the collective of shops called 2k540 Aki-Oka Artisan that opened in an arcade beneath elevated railway tracks. Among the dozens of stores filled with handcrafted wares, don’t miss the elegant wooden toys at Nocra or the spellbinding goods in Soshin Kaleidoscopes.

在这座建筑密集的城市,想要在拥挤的空间里再打造出一块商业区,就需要另辟蹊径。这便是神田万世桥(Maach Ecute Kanda Manseibashi)的魅力所在。这一位于河畔的综合性商业设施在2013年开幕,坐落在一座红砖结构的高架桥下,此处正是旧火车站“万世桥站”的所在地,从1943年车站被关闭后就一直闲置。这里的商品琳琅满目,从竹制抹茶筅到印花手帕应有尽有。逛完商店,沿旧楼梯拾级而上,看着往来的中央线(Chuo line)列车隆隆驶过,而屋顶咖啡馆N3331就开在两条轨道中间,距轨道仅一步之遥。2k540手艺人街(2k540 Aki-Oka Artisan)是将旧址转型为创意空间的又一典范。这条商店街位于高架铁轨下方的一个商场里,在众多手工艺品店里,别错过Nocra的优雅木制娃娃,还有创心万华镜(Soshin Kaleidoscopes)里那些令人着迷的商品。

2. Art Anomaly | 4 p.m.

2. 别具一格的艺术展:下午4:00

Ginza is a glamorous shopping district dominated by luxury department stores and high-end designer boutiques, which makes the continued survival of the artist-filled Okuno Building so unusual. The brick tenement, built in the 1930s, is crammed with over 50 studios, workshops and galleries. Take the rickety elevator — said to be the last of its kind in the city — to the sixth floor and then work your way down through the low-ceilinged rooms displaying everything from hand-thrown ceramics to wrapped-yarn sea creatures. Keep an eye out for Galerie Sawarabi, a closet-size, second-floor gallery that recently exhibited a hauntingly beautiful collection of silk-screen paintings.

银座(Ginza)是一个富有魅力的购物区,奢饰品店和高端设计师精品店随处可见,这让那座始终安处于此的奥野大楼(Okuno Building)显得极为不寻常。这栋砖楼建于20世纪30年代,是艺术家的大本营,里面有50多间工作室、作坊和画廊。搭乘摇摇晃晃的电梯——据说是东京仅剩的一部老式电梯——到达六层,然后顺着这些低矮的屋子一间间逛过去。这些房间里展示着各式艺术品,比如手制陶器,以及包纱线的海洋生物。还可以留意一下Sawarabi画廊(Galerie Sawarabi),这间狭小的两层画廊近期展出的绢画系列美得让人萦绕于心。

3. Slurp Shops | 6:30 p.m.

3. 囫囵吞面:晚上6:30

Ramen is dead? Hardly. The Japanese government recently announced investments of up to 2 billion yen (over $17 million) in Ippudo’s parent company to support the worldwide proliferation of their noodle shops. And in the heart of Ginza, two stylish, newish spots are doing their own form of trailblazing with deliciously distinct bowls. At Mugi to Olive, slurp a light bowl of the signature clam ramen (980 yen, or $8.40 at 116 Japanese yen to the dollar) or forgo broth entirely by ordering the silky umami-rich mazesoba that arrives crowned with a sunset-orange yolk (840 yen). Mere blocks away, devotees line up in the dim alley outside Kagari, an eight-seat shop that opened in 2013. Join them to sample the revelatory tori paitan soba (880 yen), a steaming bowl of chicken, seasonal vegetables and noodles in a creamy chicken-based broth.

拉面已死?这么说还为时尚早。日本政府近期宣布,向一风堂(Ippudo)的母公司提供总额达20亿日元(超过1700万美元)的资金,以支持他们的拉面馆向海外拓张。而在银座的中心地带,有两家新开的拉面馆正用自己独特的产品开拓市场。在Mugi to Olive,你可以呼噜呼噜地吞下一小碗他们的特色蛤蜊拉面(980日元,按116日元兑换1美元计算,约合8.4美元),也可以不要肉汤,选择口感顺滑、鲜味丰富的干捞拉面,上面有一颗日落橙色的蛋黄(840日元)。两三个街区以外,在Kagari外面昏暗的巷子里排着长队,这家2013年开业的拉面馆在只有8个座位。一碗tori paitan soba(880日元)会为你揭开长队的秘密——光滑细腻的鸡汤打底,热气腾腾的拉面配有鸡肉和时令蔬菜。

4. Sipping Shimbashi | 9:30 p.m.

4. 新桥小酌:晚上9:30

Avoid Ginza’s stuffy cocktail bars, and their sky-high seating fees, by heading south to Shimbashi, an area favored by hard-partying salarymen who work in the surrounding skyscrapers. Start at the refined sake bar Kuri, which stocks over 100 varieties of nihonshu and serves three-cup tasting flights (from 950 yen). Then walk under the train tracks to Dry-Dock, a tiny nautical-themed bar with porthole windows and a rotating selection of top domestic craft beers on tap. Finish the night at the even smaller Oyster Bal Bono, a divey new bar where you can pair a pint with a plate of fresh oysters.

避开银座那些拥挤不堪、漫天要价的鸡尾酒吧,去南边的新桥区(Shimbashi),周边的摩天大楼里那些热衷派对的上班族们都中意这个地方。可以从考究的清酒吧Kuri开始。那里贮存着超过100种日本酒(nihonshu),提供含三杯酒的试饮套餐(起价950日元)。然后沿着铁轨下方走到Dry-Dock,这是一家精致的海洋主题酒吧,窗户设计成舷窗的样子,可以在一个转盘上选择国内顶级的桶装手工啤酒。最后,在小酒馆Oyster Bal Bono结束这一天吧。在这家新开的潜水酒吧,你可以点一盘新鲜的生蚝配酒。

Saturday

星期六

5. Museum Morning | 9:30 a.m.

5. 博物馆的早晨:上午9:30

When there’s time to visit only one museum, make it the Tokyo National Museum, a vast complex housing impressive thematic collections (admission, 620 yen). The main building’s second-floor “Highlights of Japanese Art,” with exhibitions dedicated to topics like Zen and ink painting, provides an instructive primer on both culture and art. The adjacent modernist structure Toyokan, which reopened in 2013, contains refurbished galleries filled with early Chinese icons and a grisly mummy, among the Asian artifacts. And don’t miss the army of ancient terra-cotta soldiers of China’s First Emperor, part of a special exhibition in the Heiseikan galleries (Oct. 27 to Feb. 21).

如果你的时间只够逛一家博物馆,那就去东京国立博物馆(Tokyo National Museum),这座宏伟的建筑群中有一些令人印象深刻的专题系列馆藏(门票620日元)。主楼的二层是“日本艺术精华”展(“Highlights of Japanese Art”),展品涵盖从禅到水墨画的各种主题,对文化和艺术都是有益的启蒙。毗邻的台东区(Toyokan)现代结构展在2013年重新开放,包括一些整修后的画廊,其中的亚洲手工艺展品中有一些古代中国的人像,以及一具令人毛骨悚然的木乃伊。别错过中国第一个王朝的兵马俑,位于Heiseikan画廊里的特展区(展出时间:2015年10月27日至2016年2月21日)。

6. Lunch Counter | Noon

6. 简便午餐:正午

Who needs décor when you can admire a perfect plate of food? The unassuming luncheonette Maruyama Kippei, which opened in 2012, serves superlative tonkatsu — breaded, deep-fried pork cutlet — in a modest space that could easily be mistaken for a spartan sushi bar. Make your selection from the ticket machine, take a seat at the long white counter and wait for the chef to deliver bowls of white rice and miso soup, and a plate of crisp shredded cabbage with the juiciest panko-encrusted cutlet you can imagine (about 1,500 yen).

如果食物够完美,谁还会在乎餐厅的装修呢?低调的Maruyama Kippei餐厅在2012年开业,主打简餐,这里有最好吃的日式猪排——包裹面包屑的炸猪排。简朴的外观很容易让人以为这是一家普通的寿司店。在点餐机上选择食物,然后在白色柜式长桌旁就坐,过一会儿,厨师就会送来米饭和味噌汤,还有一盘爽口的白菜丝,上面摆着你能想象到的最鲜嫩多汁的面包屑炸猪排(约1500日元)。

7. Daytime Drama | 2 p.m.

7. 白天也有好戏看:下午2:00

No foreign language skills are required to appreciate Kabuki, the classical Japanese theater rich with expressive performances, elaborate costumes and dramatic stage makeup. And there’s no better place to immerse yourself in this traditional art form than at the city’s premier theater, Kabuki-za. After a three-year closure, the grand theater reopened in 2013 in a newly built structure designed by the acclaimed architect Kengo Kuma. A full multi-act performance — typically lasting about four hours — is a major time commitment, but the box office now sells same-day, upper-balcony tickets for single acts (about 1,400 yen).

观赏歌舞伎表演不需要懂日语,这种经典的日本戏剧以传神的表演、华美的服饰和戏剧化的舞台妆为特色。要认真欣赏这一传统艺术,没什么地方比东京最顶级的剧院歌舞伎座(Kabuki-za)更好的地方了。在关闭了三年之后,这个大剧院在2013年重新开放,全新的结构由广受赞誉的建筑师隈研吾(Kengo Kuma)设计。一场完整的多幕剧通常要四小时——可能对你来说有点长,不过现在售票处也出售单幕戏票,当日有效,座位在二楼包厢(约1400日元)。

8. Earlier Era | 5 p.m.

8. 寻访旧东京:下午5:00

For a glimpse of an earlier, pre-neon-and-skyscraper version of the city, explore the narrow, winding streets of the Yanaka district. Along the way, seek out Scai the Bathhouse, a pioneering art gallery where metal lockers flanking the entrance of the centuries-old building hint at its previous life as a public bath. Then duck into the brick-and-wood house of Kayaba Coffee. Open since 1938, this cozy cafe serves green-tea lattes by day and, after 6 p.m., pours cocktails infused with ingredients like ginger or homemade plum liqueur.

若要一睹旧东京没有霓虹灯和摩天大楼的模样,就去谷中区(Yanaka)那些狭窄蜿蜒的街道里寻宝。先找一找SCAI The Bathhouse,这家前卫艺术画廊所在的建筑已有几个世纪的历史,入口侧面的金属储物柜暗示着它的前身是一家公共浴池。然后,去砖木结构的Kayaba咖啡馆(Kayaba Coffee)小坐,这家惬意的咖啡馆从1938年开始营业,在日间供应抹茶拿铁,晚上6点后有用各式配方(比如姜)调制的鸡尾酒或自制梅酒。

9. Bountiful Bowls | 7 p.m.

9. 天妇罗饕餮:晚上7:00

Japanese addresses often confuse more than clarify. So when trying to locate a top restaurant specializing in tendon — an oversized bowl of rice topped with tempura — just look for the lines waiting outside. There’s bound to be one alongside the old timbered house of Dote no Iseya, a tendon specialist since 1889 that has fittingly traditional décor: a few wooden tables, a small tatami-mat alcove and an ancient grandfather clock ticking in a corner. Try the excellent “Ro” bowl, which comes piled with crisp tempura of conger eel, squid, prawns and sweet pepper (1,900 yen). If you’re prepared to measure your wait in hours, head to Kaneko Hannosuke, where everyone is queuing for the kitchen’s only dish: outstanding tendon with generous portions of tempura including vegetables, prawns, eel and an oozy egg (950 yen).

日本的地址经常会把人搞糊涂,所以如果你想找一家“天丼”(tendon)做得最好的餐厅——就是大碗的天妇罗盖饭——就看哪家门口排的队最长就行了。比如在土手の伊勢屋(Dote no Iseya)那老式木屋的外面肯定会有一条长队。这家餐厅从1889年起就专门做天丼,其传统的装饰风格也很贴切:几张木制餐桌、一个小的榻榻米壁龛,角落里还有个滴答作响的老式座钟。可以尝尝绝佳的“Ro”饭,米饭上堆满了松脆的各式天妇罗,有海鳗、鱿鱼、大虾和甜椒(1900日元)。如果你不想等得太久,那就去金子半之助(Kaneko Hannosuke),这里只卖一种天丼,所有人排队都是为了它——天妇罗分量很足,有蔬菜、大虾、鳗鱼,还配一只温泉蛋(950日元)。

10. Water, Water Everywhere | 10 p.m.

10. 泡汤:晚上10:00

Tokyo can be overwhelming, but a late-night soak at Myojin no Yu, a spalike public bathhouse, is sure to melt away the stress of a chaotic day. The calming complex features a large bathing area complete with saunas, cypress-wood pools filled with natural spring water, cold-water baths and a series of outdoor tubs of varying sizes and temperatures surrounded by trees and greenery. Facilities are separated by gender and bathing suits are not permitted. Admission 1,200 yen.

东京令人目不暇接、晕头转向,但是在午夜将至时,在明神の湯(Myojin no Yu)里泡一泡,定能扫除一天的疲惫。这个公共浴池很像温泉浴场,在宁静的建筑群里有一大片沐浴区,包括桑拿、注满天然温泉的柏木浴池、冷水浴池,在树木和绿植的环绕中,还有一系列各种尺寸和温度的户外浴盆。这里男女设施分区,不允许穿浴衣。门票1200日元。

Sunday

星期日

11. Green Peace | 10 a.m.

11. 绿荫漫步:上午10:00

Swap out the city’s steel and glass for trees and grass during a morning stroll through the landscaped Hama-rikyu Gardens (admission, 300 yen). This peaceful park, framed by Shimbashi’s soaring skyscrapers, spans more than 60 acres of green meadows and placid ponds. If your visit to the city happens to coincide with the brief cherry blossom season, tack on a walk through Sumida Park in Asakusa. The delicate blossoms’ fleeting beauty blooms along the park’s riverside allée, which also offers unobstructed views of the futuristic 2,080-foot-tall Tokyo Skytree, currently the world’s tallest tower.

把目光从东京的钢筋水泥移向大自然吧。早晨,在风景如画的滨离宫恩赐庭园(Hama-rikyu Gardens)散步(门票300日元)。这个静谧的公园嵌在新桥区的摩天大楼间,有超过60公顷绿荫和静如湖面的池塘。如果你来东京时正赶上短暂的樱花季,可以去浅草区(Asakusa)的隅田公园(Sumida Park)走一走。精致而娇弱的樱花沿公园的河畔小径绽放,欣赏这稍纵即逝之美的同时,从那里还能看到东京晴空塔(Tokyo Skytree)的全貌,这是目前世界最高的塔,高2080英尺(约634米)。

12. Coffee Queen | 2 p.m.

12. 咖啡女王:下午2:00

Even as the city pushes the limits of modernization, there remain charming spots where you can feel the nostalgic pull of the past. That’s evident at Café de L’Ambre, a classic kissaten (coffee shop) tucked on a back lane in Ginza since 1948. Take a seat at the curved wooden bar or on the maroon banquette and order a drink you’ll never find at Starbucks: the Blanc et Noir “Queen Amber,” served in a coupe glass with milk floating atop sweetened coffee. Or try a brew made with aged beans, like an extra-fine Colombian vintage from 1954. Either is a delicious reminder that there’s room for everything — new and old, traditional and trendy — even in just a portion of this exhilarating city.

尽管东京把现代化发挥到了极致,但仍有一些迷人的地方能勾起人的怀旧情结,比如琥珀咖啡(Café de L’Ambre)。这家传统的咖啡馆从1948年起就隐居在银座的一条后巷里。坐在弧形木制吧台或红褐色的长椅上,点一杯星巴克永远不会有的饮品——名为“琥珀女王”(“Queen Amber”)的黑白咖啡(the Blanc et Noir),以冰激凌杯为容器,加糖的咖啡上漂浮着牛奶。或尝一尝用陈年咖啡豆酿制的咖啡,比如1954年的哥伦比亚特优陈年咖啡豆。其实每一种都不错——无论新旧,无论传统还是现代——在这座令人欣喜的城市,即便只在这一隅,你也有很多选择。

Lodging

住宿

Tokyo is home to some of the world’s most luxurious hotels, including the first urban outpost of the exclusive Aman Resorts, Aman Tokyo (1-5-6 Otemachi, Chiyoda-ku; amanresorts.com), which opened in the eastern Otemachi financial district in December. Occupying the top six floors of a soaring tower, the hotel features sweeping views – from the neighboring Imperial Gardens to Mount Fuji – in the restaurant, lounge and 84 elegant rooms and suites (from about 90,000 yen).

世界上几家最奢华的酒店集团都在东京落了脚,包括安缦度假村旗下的第一家城市度假村安缦东京(Aman Tokyo)(千代田区大手町1-5-6;amanresorts.com)。该酒店在2014年12月开业,位于大手町(Otemachi)金融区的东部。酒店占据了一栋大厦的顶部六层,餐厅、酒廊,以及84间雅致的客房和套房均可俯瞰东京全景——无论是附近的皇居,还是富士山,都一览无余(每晚90000日元起)。

Style and views can also be had for far fewer yen at the Park Hotel Tokyo (1-7-1 Higashi Shimbashi, Minato-ku; parkhoteltokyo.com), an art-filled hotel near Shimbashi station. The 25th-floor lobby faces the Tokyo Tower, and similarly spectacular scenes figure prominently in each of the 273 plush rooms (from 20,000 yen), some of which have been decorated by former artists-in-residence.

如果想以更实惠的价格同时享有格调和风景,东京花园酒店(Park Hotel Tokyo)(港区东新桥1-7-1;parkhoteltokyo.com)是一个不错的选择。这是一家充满艺术气息的酒店,位于新桥站附近。酒店大堂位于25层,对面就是东京塔(Tokyo Tower),273间豪华客房(每晚20000日元起)拥有同样壮丽的景观,其中一些房间还保留着前艺术家住户的装饰风格。

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