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36小时玩转开普敦

更新时间:2015-11-16 10:01:11 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

36 Hours in Cape Town
36小时玩转开普敦

“We’ll make a plan.” It’s a phrase you’ll hear often in South Africa, whether you show up at a restaurant without a reservation or are hoping to squeeze three people into a hotel room meant for two. Heralded as one of the world’s most beautiful cities — few destinations can mimic the scale of its mountain-ocean convergence — Cape Town doesn’t need to be as accommodating as it is; it could, in theory, sit pretty on the merits of its natural bounties alone. And yet it remains a singularly inviting place, wowing visitors with its colorful art and architecture (watch out for the Thomas Heatherwick-designed Zeitz Museum of Contemporary Art Africa, to be completed next year), complex history, world-class wines and arguably one of the best culinary landscapes anywhere. How to squeeze all of Cape Town’s highlights, both man- and Mother Nature-made, into one weekend? Don’t worry, we’ll make a plan.

“我们会想办法的。”在南非,你会经常听到这句话,无论是你没预订就去了一家餐厅,还是想在酒店的双人间里挤下三个人。开普敦被誉为全球最美的城市之一——没什么地方能媲美那山海相融的壮观——它本可以独立于世,安享大自然的馈赠,大可不必像现在这般随和。但它仍作为这世上为数不多的好客之地,以其色彩斑斓的艺术品和建筑(可以关注一下非洲塞茨当代艺术博物馆[Zeitz Museum of Contemporary Art Africa],由托马斯·赫斯维克[Thomas Heatherwick]设计,将于明年对外开放)、错综复杂的历史、世界一流的葡萄酒,以及公认位居全球前列的美食,不断给游客带来惊喜。如何用一个周末尽情体验开普敦的人文及自然之精华?别担心,我们会想办法的。

The Orphanage cocktail bar.
孤儿院鸡尾酒吧。

Friday

星期五

1. Manna From Heaven | 1:30 p.m.

1. 从天而降的恩赐:下午1:30

Hemelhuijs (“house of heaven” in Afrikaans) is a worthy introduction to South Africa’s creative food scene du jour, a vibrant restaurant tableau defined by seasonal ingredients forging unexpected unions and presented with flourish. Case in point: pan-fried veal with crab butter, Parmesan, pine nuts and parsley (155 rand, or $12.25 at 12.75 rand to the dollar); seared tuna with shredded carrots and chiloe pepper-berry vinaigrette (155 rand); and free mosbolletjie bread studded with aniseed. Wash it down with a blend of kale, pear and orange juice (45 rand).

Hemelhuijs(在南非荷兰语中意为“天堂之屋”)是南非创意美食的入门之选,这家餐厅采取时下流行的“当日菜单”风格——以时令食材搭配出新奇的组合,外加花式摆盘。比如:铁盘煎小牛肉,配蟹黄、帕尔玛干酪、松子及欧芹(155兰特,按12.75兰特兑换1美元计算,约合12.25美元);烤金枪鱼,配胡萝卜丝及奇洛黑椒浆果油醋汁(155兰特);还有免费的葡萄干甜面包,里面布满了茴芹籽。用餐时可以配一杯由羽衣甘蓝、梨和橙子混合的蔬果汁(45兰特)。

2. History Lessons | 3 p.m.

2. 寻访历史:下午3:00

Book a few weeks in advance for a tour of Cape Town’s Alcatraz: Robben Island, the grim penal colony five miles off the coast. Though the island’s history as a prison dates to the 17th century, its notoriety stems from its most famous inmate, Nelson Mandela, who spent nearly two decades of his 27-year sentence for sabotage against the apartheid government. A visit is an essential primer to understanding the gravity of apartheid and its impact on the 21-year-old nation. Guides are former political prisoners once incarcerated here. Ferries leave several times a day; plan to spend about four hours including the round-trip ferry. Admission, 300 rand; 160 for children.

到访开普敦的“恶魔岛”(Alcatraz)需要提前几个星期预订。罗本岛(Robben Island)距海岸5英里(约8.05公里),是令人生畏的流放之地。尽管罗本岛作为监狱的历史要追溯到17世纪,但它的恶名是来自于其最著名的“囚犯”——尼尔森·曼德拉(Nelson Mandela)。他因反对种族隔离政府而被判入狱27年,其中在罗本岛度过了近20年。如果要了解种族隔离的危害,及其带给这个成立了21年的国家的影响,这是一个必不可少的启蒙之旅。向导都是曾被关押在此的政治犯。每天有数班往来的游轮;算上搭船的时间,来回需要大约四个小时。门票:成人300兰特;儿童160兰特。

3. Eat Street | 8:30 p.m.

3. 美食街:晚上8:30

If you’re wondering where the hip Capetonians are dining, have your Uber drop you off at Bree Street. This formerly nondescript city-center drag has seen new restaurants and cafes opening at a rapid clip. One of the trendiest debutantes is Bocca, with an impressive pedigree: Its owners, Neil Grant and Barry Engelbrecht, are the team behind Burrata, a top Italian restaurant. Choose between pizzas blistered to perfection in an Italian-imported wood-fired oven or heartier fare like cauliflower risotto with charred leeks, almonds, lemon and capers (95 rand). Pizzas are reasonably priced, ranging from 42 rand to 126 rand. No reservations, so you might have to wait on busy weekends. After dinner, head farther up Bree for a little barhopping : Mother’s Ruin is a mecca for gin lovers in a wine-connoisseur’s city; neighboring Door 221 is a low-key new dive bar; down the block, the speakeasy-style Orphanage Cocktail Emporium has vintage décor and drinks to match (Brimstone & Fire for 80 rand; Victorian margarita for 45 rand).

如果你想知道时髦的开普敦人平时在哪儿吃饭,就让Uber司机把你送到布利街(Bree Street)。这条曾经乏善可陈的市中心街道一时间涌现了众多新餐厅和咖啡馆,Bocca是其中最时髦的新秀之一,而且它的来头也不小:老板尼尔·格兰特(Neil Grant)和巴利·恩格尔布雷克特(Barry Engelbrecht)也是意大利顶级餐厅Burrata的幕后主创。你可以选择由意大利进口的燃木烤炉烤制的蓬松度完美的披萨,或来点更丰盛的,比如椰菜花意大利饭,配烤韭菜、杏仁、柠檬及刺山柑(95兰特)。披萨定价合理,从42兰特到126兰特不等。餐厅不接受预订,所以在繁忙的周末可能要排队。晚餐后,可以沿着布利街逛酒吧:在这个遍布葡萄酒行家的城市,Mother’s Ruin是金酒爱好者的朝圣之地;隔壁的Door 221是一家低调的新潜水酒吧;在下个街区,地下风格的孤儿院鸡尾酒吧(Orphanage Cocktail Emporium)采用复古装饰,饮品也是类似风格(“地狱之火”80兰特;“维多利亚的玛格丽塔”45兰特。)

Saturday

星期六

4. Running Tour | 8 a.m.

4. 跑步之旅:上午8:00

Capetonians are an active bunch, prone to hiking or biking their weekends away. While you might not have time to squeeze in a climb, work up a sweat bright and early at the weekly “parkrun” at Greenpoint Stadium. Join hundreds of joggers (walkers are welcome, too) for a scenic 5-kilometer route through the city, around the stadium erected for the 2010 World Cup, and into the Greenpoint Urban Park, a sprawling inner-city tract filled with playgrounds, ponds, an open-air gym and gardens with 25,000 indigenous plants. The run is free; just show up at 8 a.m., or register online to receive your time via email.

开普敦人是一个充满活力的群体,喜欢在周末爬山或骑行。虽然你可能没时间爬山,但也可以在大清早的开普敦球场(Greenpoint Stadium,又名“绿点球场”)来一场酣畅淋漓的“公园跑”(“parkrun”)。该活动每周一次,加入几百名慢跑者(散步的也欢迎)的队伍,完成风景如画的五公里:路线包括城市街道、环绕这座为2010年世界杯而建的球场,最后进入绿点城市公园(Greenpoint Urban Park)——这块位于市中心的不规则区域里有操场、池塘、露天体育馆,以及种植了25000种本地植物的花园。跑步活动是免费的;只要在上午8点出现就行了,或者在这里注册,他们会发电子邮件通知你确切的时间。

5. Market Values | 9:30 a.m.

5. 集市有好货:上午9:30

Saturday is market day, and there are a few options to choose from. The pioneer is at the Old Biscuit Mill in Woodstock, where the weekly Neighbourgoods Market was at the forefront of this run-down district’s transformation into a creative enclave. These days, trendsetters and tourists alike descend on the complex by the thousands each Saturday morning to graze on artisanal fare and browse handmade crafts. The Oranjezicht City Farm Market is a more wholesome affair: From its humble origins at the site of a nonprofit urban farm, the market has grown and now occupies a sprawling tent near the V&A Waterfront. Both Neighbourgoods and Oranjezicht run from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. on Saturdays; cobble together a filling breakfast from various stalls before you continue on your way.

星期六是赶集日,有很多集市可供选择,其中的先驱者位于伍德斯托克(Woodstock)的老饼干磨坊区(Old Biscuit Mill)。这一创意飞地曾是个萧条的区域,每周一次的Neighbourgoods集市在这一转变中起到了领军作用。如今,每星期六早上都有数千潮人和游客涌入这里,品尝手作食物,浏览手工艺品。Oranjezicht市区农贸市场(The Oranjezicht City Farm Market)更像是个批发市场:最初从一个不起眼的非营利性城市农场起步,现在发展到在维多利亚&阿尔弗雷德码头广场(V&A Waterfront)附近搭满了帐篷。这两个集市都是每星期六从上午9点开到下午2点;用不同摊位上的美食凑成一顿丰盛的早餐,再继续接下来的行程。

6. Museum of Memories | 10:30 a.m.

6. 记忆的博物馆:上午10:30

Somber lessons in apartheid continue in District Six, a multicultural enclave whose residents were forcibly removed beginning in the 1960s. The intimate District Six Museum paints a poignant picture of the devastation wreaked on close-knit communities, telling stories through personal narratives, pictures and memorabilia collected from uprooted families. Admission is 30 rand; arrange in advance for a guided tour with a former resident for 45 rand.

沉重的种族隔离课堂在第六区(District Six)继续进行。这块多文化飞地上的居民从20世纪60年代起就被强行驱逐。精通这段历史的第六区博物馆(District Six Museum)为这个族群的伤痛描绘出一幅辛酸的画卷。从被驱逐的家庭中收集来个人自述、照片和纪念品,也为人们讲述着当年的故事。门票:30兰特;如需一位原居民做导览,请提前安排,收费45兰特。

7. Art and Coffee | Noon

7. 艺术和咖啡:正午

Coffee is serious business here. Haas is an art gallery-cafe hybrid that serves cappuccinos (22 rand), mochachinos (26 rand), ultra-strong death wishes — the equivalent of six double espressos (55 rand) — and more amid an array of modern art and mounted animal busts.

在开普顿,咖啡是个严肃的行业。Haas集艺术画廊和咖啡馆于一身,供应卡布奇诺(22兰特)、摩卡奇诺(26兰特),以及“超强烈的死亡之愿”——相当于六杯的双份浓缩咖啡(55兰特)。在众多现代艺术作品和壁挂的动物头装饰中,你还会有更多发现。

8. The Great Gatsby | 1 p.m.

8. 了不起的盖茨比:下午1:00

Don’t leave Cape Town without trying the city’s signature Gatsby sandwich — a behemoth sub laden with saucy meat and French fries. The origin of the hoagie’s amusing name is up for debate, but they’re sold at plenty of no-frills “takeaways”; one of the best is at Mariam’s Kitchen on the pedestrian St. George’s Mall promenade. A full steak Gatsby could feed up to four people and costs 120 rand. Mariam’s closes at 2 p.m. on Saturdays, so keep it quick.

离开开普敦之前,一定要试试这里特有的盖茨比三明治——巨大的潜艇三明治里面铺满了酱汁肉排和炸薯条。至于这有趣的名字因何而来,尚无定论,但它们在不起眼的外卖摊上随处可见;其中最好吃的一家在圣乔治商场步行区的Mariam’s Kitchen。四个人点一个全牛排盖茨比就足够了,售价120兰特。Mariam每星期日下午2点关门,所以要早点去。

9. Rainbow Bright | 2 p.m.

9. 彩虹社区:下午2:00

If you’ve ever received a postcard from Cape Town, chances are it featured a collection of candy-colored rowhouses clustered around the slopes of a mountain. That neighborhood is Bo-Kaap, and that mountain is Signal Hill. The city’s Cape Malay Muslim community has called Bo-Kaap (“Upper Cape”) home for generations, and they’ve enlivened their houses by painting them every conceivable shade of pink, green, blue and purple. If you’re lucky, someone might offer you a homemade koesister, a coconut-dusted doughnut doused in syrup (you can also buy one at Rose Corner Café for 3 rand). To learn more about the community’s history pop into the Bo-Kaap Museum on Wale Street (20 rand).

如果你收到过来自开普敦的明信片,图案八成是聚集在山坡上的糖果色排屋。那一带是波卡普(Bo-Kaap),那座山是信号山(Signal Hill)。开普敦的开普马来穆斯林社区世世代代生活在波卡普(意为“开普敦上城区”),他们给房子赋予了活力,把上面每一块能刷的地方都刷成了粉色、绿色、蓝色或紫色。如果你够幸运的话,有人或许会给你一份自制的koesister,这是一种糕点,外层覆满椰子粉,再浇上糖浆(在玫瑰角咖啡馆[Rose Corner Café]也可以买到,价格3兰特)。如果想更详细地了解这个社区的历史,可以去维尔街上的波卡普博物馆(Bo-Kaap Museum)(门票20兰特)。

10. Mountain High | 4 p.m.

10. 登高望远:下午4:00

The other classic Cape Town shot: Table Mountain, the imposing mesa that defines the city’s skyline. Locals prefer to hike one of the many trails to the top, but you can always ride the cable car. The late-afternoon light is best for gilded 360-degree views of the beach and city as well as the Lion’s Head peak next door. Round-trip cableway tickets are 240 rand.

桌山是开普敦的另一个经典景点,这座壮丽的平顶山成为了开普敦的天际线。当地人喜欢从众多小径里选一条骑行上山,但你也可以搭缆车。黄昏时分的光影给海滩、城市,以及旁边的狮子头山(Lion’s Head)的山顶都镀上了一层金色,是观赏360度全景的最佳时机。来回的缆车票价是240兰特。

11. Wine and Dine | 7 p.m.

11. 葡萄酒和晚餐:晚上7:00

Cape Town’s coastal location means a seafood feast is required. Pigalle is the place for moist langoustines, prawns with peri-peri sauce, and Mozambican prawn curry. But be warned: The décor seems to be floundering in the 1980s, and if you find cover bands a touch cheesy, request a table far from the dance floor. Dinner is around 1,000 rand for two with wine. Or immerse yourself in South Africa’s wine culture instead. The upscale suburb of Constantia is home to South Africa’s first vineyards, dating to 1685. Make a reservation at La Colombe at Silvermist wine estate for Scot Kirton’s French inflections on local ingredients, like roast Karoo lamb with braised tongue, rosemary gnocchi, herb purée, leek and lamb rib jus (220 rand).

在沿海的开普敦,海鲜大餐不容错过。Pigalle是品尝多汁的海鳌虾、peri-peri酸辣酱大虾,以及莫桑比克咖喱大虾的不二之选。但是要注意:店内的装饰风格似乎还停留在20世纪80年代,而且,如果你觉得现场乐队有点俗气,可以换一个远离舞池的桌子。双人晚餐加葡萄酒的价格大约是1000兰特。如果不吃海鲜,就沉浸在南非的葡萄酒文化里吧。唐斯坦提亚(Constantia)的高级郊区从1685年起就作为葡萄酒的产区,南非的第一批葡萄园就开在那里。在Silvermist葡萄酒庄园的La Colombe餐厅预订主厨斯科特·克尔顿(Scot Kirton)用本地食材烹饪的法国菜,比如烤卡鲁羊肉,配焖牛舌、迷迭香汤团、草本菜泥、韭菜及羊排酱汁(220兰特)。

Sunday

星期日

12. Garden Variety | 9 a.m.

12. 皆大欢喜的花园:上午9:00

When Jan van Riebeeck and the first Dutch settlers arrived in the 1650s, they farmed a patch of land now known as the Company’s Garden, a verdant swath in the heart of the city with fish ponds and rose gardens. The outdoor seating area at the new Company’s Garden Restaurant is a playground for both grown-ups and children, thanks to a larger-than-life chess set and oversize swings and nests. Breakfast, with options like French toast and eggs Benedict: 35 to 78 rand.

杨·范·里贝克(Jan van Riebeeck)和第一批荷兰人在17世纪50年代到达了这里。他们曾耕作的土地就是如今荷属东印度公司花园(Company’s Garden)的所在地。这片郁郁葱葱的带状区域位于市中心,里面有鱼池和玫瑰园。新开的公司花园餐厅(Company’s Garden Restaurant)的户外座位区是一个游乐场。比真人还大的国际象棋、超大号秋千和休息处,让成人和儿童都能在此玩乐。早餐有法式面包、班尼迪克蛋等,价格35兰特到78兰特不等。

13. Last-Minute Souvenirs | 11 a.m.

13. 纪念品:上午11:00

The Watershed at the V&A Waterfront has one-stop shopping for local crafts and clothes: rope necklaces and cuffs from Pichulik, Hello Charlie ceramics and Nunabean baby shoes. Or make an appointment at Luxury Africa Atelier, where wildlife photography by Marius Coetzee, Legacy Collection jewelry created out of the fencing from Robben Island, and driftwood sculptures by Tony Fredriksson are on display. If haggling is more your scene, the prices at the lively daily bazaar at Greenmarket Square are always negotiable.

维多利亚&阿尔弗雷德码头广场(V&A Waterfront)的分界处有一个一站式购物中心,可以买到当地的工艺品和服装:有 Pichulik的绳式项链及手链、Hello Charlie的陶器,以及Nunabean婴儿鞋。或者在Luxury Africa Atelier上预约参观,那里有马利尤斯·库切(Marius Coetzee)的野生动物摄影作品、以罗本岛监狱为主题的“遗产系列”(Legacy Collection)珠宝,以及托尼·弗雷德里克森(Tony Fredriksson)的浮木雕塑。如果你更喜欢去能讲价的地方购物,那就去绿市广场(Greenmarket Square)的每日集市吧。

Lodging

住宿

The owner and interior designer Jessica Latimer styled Cape View Clifton (232 Kloof Road, Clifton; capeviewclifton.co.za) to resemble a chic but relaxed beach house (at seven stories, mansion might be a more apt term). With a distinctly South African air, it has crisp white and gray interiors, faux kudu horns doubling as hat hooks, bulbous vases heaped with protea flowers, and Africology products in the bathrooms. Set snugly on the cliffs above Clifton Beach, the five rooms and two apartments have sweeping views of the ocean from private balconies. Rooms start at 3,400 rand (about $160) a night, including breakfast.

室内设计师杰西卡·拉蒂默(Jessica Latimer)是开普敦海角景观克利夫顿酒店(Cape View Clifton)(克利夫顿克鲁夫街232号;capeviewclifton.co.za)的老板。她把酒店设计得像是一栋时髦而舒适的海滩别墅(共有七层,“大厦”更适合形容公寓楼)。酒店具有典型的南非风格:内部采用纯白和灰色的色调,仿制的羚角还可以作为帽钩,球形花瓶中插满了帝王花,浴室采用Africology产品。五个单间和两间公寓依克里夫顿海滩(Clifton Beach)上方的悬崖而建,在私人阳台上可尽享一览无余的海景。房间价格由每晚3400兰特起,含早餐。

In the heart of the Central Business District, Cape Heritage Hotel (90 Bree Street; capeheritage.co.za) is nestled among the popular restaurants, bars and boutiques of Bree Street. Every floorboard of the 1771-built house creaks with history, but the 17 rooms are a thoughtful hybrid of old and new. A pergola in the cobblestoned patio is draped with what is said to be the oldest grapevine in South Africa, planted soon after the house was originally built — it still produces about 20 liters of wine a year. Rooms start at 1,500 rand (about $115) a night, including breakfast.

开普敦希望之地酒店(Cape Heritage Hotel)地处中心商务区(布利街90号;capeheritage.co.za),周围遍布着布利街的餐厅、酒吧和精品店。这栋房子建于1771年,每块地板都带着历史的回声,但酒店思虑周全,把17个房间混搭了新旧两种风格。在铺满鹅卵石的庭院里有一个藤架,上面悬挂着据说是南非最古老的葡萄藤。这株葡萄藤在房子建成后不久就种下了——现在每年还能产出大约20升葡萄酒。房间价格由每晚1500兰特起(约115美元),含早餐。

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