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欧洲行,穷游奢游都能行

更新时间:2015-11-4 10:30:47 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

A European Vacation, for Budgets High and Low
欧洲行,穷游奢游都能行

Contributors offer enticing options for both big spenders and budget minded in six favorite destinations, including Madrid, Copenhagen and Moscow.

不管是奢华游还是穷游,我们的撰稿人都准备出了十分诱人的旅游方案,涵盖马德里、哥本哈根、莫斯科等六大人气目的地。

Salvatore Ferragamo; Marie Antoinette shop, Florence.
萨瓦托·菲拉格慕;玛丽·安托瓦内特商店,佛罗伦萨。

Florence

佛罗伦萨

By INGRID K. WILLIAMS

作者:INGRID K. WILLIAMS

“Everything spoke so vividly to my soul,” Stendhal wrote in the 19th century of the Renaissance artworks with which Florence is so richly endowed.

“一切都在如此鲜活地向我的灵魂倾诉,”司汤达(Stendhal)在19世纪时,曾如此描述文艺复兴时期的艺术品,而这正是佛罗伦萨最不缺少的东西。

Today, a visitor to Florence could be stricken by a modern-day variant of that syndrome, simply faced with the treasures arrayed on counters and shelves in the city’s jewel-box shops and artisan ateliers. And it can happen at price points at both ends of the spectrum.

如今,一名来到佛罗伦萨的游客,单是面对这座城市的珠宝盒店和工匠工作室里的柜台与货架上码放的宝物,就可能完全被类似的现代人心理所攻陷。这种心理既可能出现在价格奇高的时候,也可能出现在价格亲民的时候。

It could happen at the Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella, where shopping for sweet rosewater and ancient herbal elixirs is a near-religious experience. It could happen in a side-street showroom of one of the city’s bespoke shoemakers, where gleaming, handcrafted leather brogues look like sculptures too beautiful to touch, let alone put on one’s feet. Or at the atelier of Lorenzo Villoresi, as the perfumer performs the meditative alchemy that will result in a signature scent, or at Antico Setificio Fiorentino, where the centuries-old looms can lull you into a trance while they weave sumptuous silks fit for royalty.

可能是出现在圣塔玛莉亚诺维拉香水制造厂(Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella)里,在这里选购甜美的玫瑰水和古老的中药制剂,是种近乎于宗教性质的体验。也可能出现在该市某位定制鞋匠位于某条小巷内的样品间里,这里锃光发亮的手工皮布洛克鞋看上去有如雕像一般美到不可亵玩,更是教人舍不得穿到脚上。又或者出现在洛伦佐·维尔里西(Lorenzo Villoresi)的作坊里,这位调香师修炼的内丹术能够生成一种标志性的香气;再或者是在佛罗伦萨古丝绸厂(Antico Setificio Fiorentino),厂里具有上百年历史的纺织机在纺织供给皇室的华丽丝绸时,能让你的内心平静下来,进入到一种放空的状态。

But my Stendhal moment struck at Ferragamo.

而我的“司汤达时刻”则出现在菲拉格慕。

Joined by my friend Jessie, who was visiting from New York, I walked the length of Via de’ Tornabuoni, the epicenter of Florentine Alta Moda. At the southern end of the street, in a grand medieval palazzo, is the flagship store that Salvatore Ferragamo opened in 1937. Today the stone edifice also houses the Ferragamo Museo, which documents the life of the shoemaker who created trendsetting designs for Hollywood stars like Marilyn Monroe.

我的朋友杰西从纽约过来,陪我一起走完了整条托纳波尼路(Via de’ Tornabuoni)——佛罗伦萨的时尚中心。在这条街道的南端,一间宏伟的中世纪宫殿里,有一间1937年开业的萨瓦托·菲拉格慕(Salvatore Ferragamo)旗舰店。如今,这座石砌建筑内还开设了一间菲拉格慕博物馆(Ferragamo Museo),用来记录这位制鞋匠的一生——他曾为玛丽莲·梦露(Marilyn Monroe)等诸多好莱坞明星创作了引领潮流的新设计。

But we were there for the shoes. We entered a hushed salon awash in hues of beige and the heady scent of leather. Along the walls was a rainbow — plum patent leather heels, blue suede moccasins, cherry-red flats with prim grosgrain bows. We were both drawn to a pair of seductively high heels in wool houndstooth. Terribly impractical for both my budget and the cobblestones with which all Italian residents must contend, the heels went home with Jessie. I contented myself with a more sensible splurge: classic ballerinas in supple black leather. (Prices go up to 1,000 euros for shoes — nearly $1,100 at $1.10 to the euro — though most fall between 300 to 500 euros.)

不过我们是来这里看鞋子的。我们走进了一间静谧的鞋店,里面遍布着真皮的米黄色色调,弥漫着醉人的真皮香气。店内的墙面上铺成了一道彩虹——紫红色的漆皮高跟鞋,蓝色的绒面莫卡辛鞋,樱桃红色的平底鞋,上面还装饰着端庄的罗缎蝴蝶结。我们两人都被一双迷人的千鸟格羊毛面料高跟鞋吸引住了。可惜无论是考虑到我的预算,还是考虑到所有住在意大利的人都必须与之搏斗的鹅卵石路面,这双高跟鞋都非常地不切实际,它还是被杰西买回了家。我则通过一笔更为明智的挥霍满足了自己的欲望:一双采用柔软的黑色皮革制成的经典款芭蕾舞鞋。(每双鞋的价格最高可达1,000欧元——按1欧元兑1.10美元计算约合1,100美元——不过大部分都在300欧元到500欧元不等。)

Yet like a love that slipped away, the houndstooth heels still haunt my thoughts on every return to Florence. I imagine a secondhand pair might one day turn up at my favorite vintage store, Marie Antoinette, which opened a year and a half ago in an alley behind Ferragamo. The shop stocks pristine secondhand as well as new pieces from local designers, so you can score like-new Gucci hobo bags, candy-colored Miu Miu heels and suede Proenza Schouler satchels for prices that are surprisingly reasonable, though still far from frugal — about half of what they cost new in the designer stores. Many bags are under 1,000 euros.

然而,那双千鸟格高跟鞋就像一名擦肩而过的爱人,在我每次重回佛罗伦萨时都依然萦绕在我的脑海中。我幻想着也许会有那么一天,一双二手的千鸟格高跟鞋将会出现在我最喜欢的古着店玛丽安托瓦内特(Marie Antoinette)店内——这家古着店于一年半前开业,就坐落在菲拉格慕后面的一条小巷内。这间商店里既有早期的二手古着,也有本土设计师的设计新品,你可以淘到近乎全新的古奇(Gucci)新月包、缪缪(Miu Miu)糖果色高跟鞋和普罗恩萨·施罗(Proenza Schouler)绒面邮差包,价格虽然远远称不上节俭,却也已经合理得惊人了——大约只要设计师品牌店售价的一半左右。许多手袋的价格都不到1,000欧元。

Truly great deals were once easy to find in Florence’s markets, like sprawling San Lorenzo where stall after stall is filled with leather goods of varying provenance and quality. Sadly, that is often no longer the case. Skeptics may save their euros for a purchase at the Scuola del Cuoio in Santa Croce, where you can watch master craftsmen make top-handle totes and roomy overnight bags that are sold on-site for a fraction of what they’d likely cost in the States. Most items are in the 300- to 400-euro range, more for exotic leathers.

在佛罗伦萨的许多集市里,曾经很容易找到特别划算的商品,比如占地面积庞大的圣洛伦索(San Lorenzo),那里一座又一座的小摊上,摆满了不同产地不同品质的皮革制品。遗憾的是,如今这种场景已经不再多见。疑心比较重的游客,可能会把他们的欧元留到圣十字广场(Santa Croce)内的皮革作坊Scuola del Cuoio里再来消费,你可以在这间店里观赏到大师级的工匠制作手拎包和宽敞的旅行袋,这些制品均在现场销售,价格可能只需要在美国的几分之一。大部分商品的价格都在300欧元到400欧元之间,使用进口皮革的商品会更贵一点。

But a little risk at the market can still yield great rewards. Years ago, my husband artfully bargained down the price of a cognac leather briefcase at the Mercato del Porcellino, ultimately obtained for 75 euros. It may not be Ferragamo, but after years of wear from daily use, the Italian leather has never looked better.

但是在集市上冒点风险,仍然可能带来巨大的回报。几年前,我先生就很厉害地在小猪市场(Mercato del Porcellino)里,将一只棕褐色公文包的价钱一直侃到了75欧元,成功入手。即便不是菲拉格慕的牌子,在经过多年的日常穿用之后,意大利的皮革都会变得越来越耐看。

Champagne

香槟

By ALEXANDER LOBRANO

作者:ALEXANDER LOBRANO

When this region of northeastern France was awarded World Heritage status by Unesco in July, there was no doubt what quaff would be poured to celebrate the new designation — the world’s most elegant and expensive sparkling wine. Happily, though, discovering the bubbly on its home turf is as much a pleasure for budget travelers as it is for big spenders.

这处位于法国东北部的地区,于今年7月被联合国教科文组织评为了世界遗产,此时要倒来畅饮以庆祝这一新头衔所用的佳酿,自然得是世界上最优雅也最昂贵的气泡酒。不过让人开心的是,在香槟的家乡寻找这种起泡酒,为囊中羞涩的游客和一掷千金的游客所带来的乐趣基本是对等的。

The best experiences in Champagne are often both sensual and studious, including the most surprising lesson many learn from a trip to Reims, the area’s largest city: That festive image to one side, Champagne is also a profoundly sophisticated and complex table wine, pairing well with the superb food served in the region’s many excellent restaurants.

在香槟感受到的最佳体验,往往兼具感官与见识两方面,其中有一条最令人惊喜的经验,很多人都会在前往当地最大城市兰斯(Reims)的旅途中学习到:除了上述节庆用途之外,香槟也是一款口感极为成熟多变的餐桌葡萄酒,与当地许多出色餐馆所提供的优质食物,在口味上都可以完美搭配。

The most delicious way to discover Champagne’s gastronomic aptitude is through one of the regularly renewed menus that the chef Philippe Mille creates at Le Parc, the Michelin two-star restaurant at the plush Le Domaine Les Crayères hotel. This past winter, Mr. Mille’s stunning black-truffle-themed menu, served with a selection of Krug Champagnes, began with grilled scallops and celery-and-black-truffle “risotto” in a Parmesan foam; echoes of the sweet scallops, earthy truffles and Parmesan’s salty umami richness could all be tasted in the paired wine, a Grande Cuvée called “L’Expression Même du Ravissement Ultime.”

感受香槟美味的最佳方式,就是借助于大厨菲利·米勒(Philippe Mille)为豪华的雷克莱耶尔酒店(Le Le Domaine Les Crayères)内开设的米其林二星级餐厅Le Parc设计的任意一份定期更新的菜单。去年冬季,米勒先生推出了令人惊艳的黑松露主题菜单,搭配精选的库克香槟(Krug Champagnes),头盘为烤扇贝配西芹黑松露意大利调味饭(risotto)浇帕马森芝士泡沫汁;鲜甜的扇贝、朴实的松露和帕马森芝士的咸香相互呼应,配合一款名为L’Expression Même du Ravissement Ultime的库克陈年香槟(Grande Cuvée),逐一品味。

Since such a luxurious and expensive meal (360 euros, about $395) should be savored, you might as well spend the night at Les Crayères, as I did; with silk damask curtains framing beautiful views of the gardens that surround this Belle Époque chateau, these cosseting rooms begin at 370 euros a night, low season; 395 euros a night, high season.

如此豪华昂贵的佳肴(360欧元,约合395美元)理应全方位享受,建议你不妨像我一样,在雷克莱耶尔酒店下榻一晚;丝制锦缎窗帘框出一幅幅环绕这座美好年代(Belle Époque)酒庄而建的公园美景,这般极尽奢华的房间的价格为淡季一晚370欧元起,旺季一晚395欧元起。

The next morning, I headed to the Atelier Dom Pérignon in nearby Hautvillers for what may be the region’s most charming and erudite lesson in Champagne connoisseurship. These workshops, which are limited to 12 participants and cost 600 euros, include a visit to the 12th-century abbey where the label’s namesake Champagne-making Benedictine monk is buried, a visit to the cellars, lunch and a tasting of three Champagnes; specify when booking if you want an English-language session.

次日一早,我出发前往附近的欧维莱尔(Hautvillers)小镇里的唐培里侬酒坊(Atelier Dom Pérignon),去参加大概算是当地最吸引人也最开眼界的香槟鉴赏课。这类课程最多仅限12人参加,收费600欧元,内容包括:参观一间12世纪的修道院,当年酿造出这款香槟的本笃会僧人唐培里侬就下葬于此;参观酒窖;享用午餐,同时品尝三款香槟;预订课程时记得指明是否是要英语班。

Even if the atelier hadn’t been so amiable, interesting and animated, it would have been worth it for the head-spinning pleasure of tasting the 2003 rosé, which was spicy on the palate with a salty finish and had a nose that included figs, strawberries, guava, violets and vanilla.

即便酒坊的气氛没有那么平易近人、趣味盎然和栩栩如生,却依然值得一去,体验品尝2003年份玫瑰香槟(rosé)时的眩晕乐趣,这种香槟的口感辛辣,余味带咸,充满无花果、草莓、石榴、紫罗兰和香草的香气。

Reims is also both an easy day trip from Gare de l’Est station in Paris and comfortably visited on foot or by public transportation, making it the most affordable choice for anyone wanting to discover Champagne at the source.

要去兰斯,你既可从巴黎东站(Gare de l’Est)出发,轻松地完成一趟当天来回的短途旅行,也可舒适地搭乘公共交通工具或步行前往,这对任何想要在香槟之乡发掘香槟之美的人而言,都是最实惠的选择。

The only Champagne cellar tour in Reims where you don’t need an advance booking is Taittinger, which charges a very reasonable 16.50 euros for an hourlong English-language tour. It offers a good general introduction to how Champagne is made and concludes with a sample of Taittinger’s very suave Brut Réserve Champagne.

在兰斯,唯一不需要你提前预订的香槟酒窖游是泰亭哲(Taittinger)酒窖,这里收费合理,16.50欧元便可享受一个小时的英语观光。其中会生动地简要介绍香槟如何酿造,并在最后提供泰亭哲的几种口感成熟的珍藏纯干香槟(Brut Réserve Champagne)的样品供大家品尝。

After the cellar tour, you’ll be ready for lunch; a perfect spot is the new modern bistro Racine, run by the talented young Japanese-born chef Kazuyuki Tanaka. The two-course 29-euro weekday lunch menu includes delicious contemporary French dishes like shrimp with candied lemon and butternut squash or rabbit with radishes and basil; there’s also a short but excellent wine list of distinctive small-producer “grower” Champagnes, or wines produced by the same estate that owns the vineyards from which the grapes come. The restaurant also happens to be just around the corner from the magnificent Gothic cathedral of Notre-Dame-de-Reims, where most of the kings of France were coronated. Since there is no entrance fee at the church, the pleasure of discovering its stained-glass windows, which range from a spectacular medieval rose window over the main doorway to contemporary works created by the artist Paul Chagall, is free.

酒窖游之后,大家的午餐便已准备就绪;有一处完美的场所便是新建的现代酒馆Racine,老板是在日本出生、才华洋溢的大厨田中和幸(Kazuyuki Tanaka,音译)。这份价值29欧元的午餐由两道菜组成,包括美味的当代法国料理,例如蜜渍柠檬虾配冬南瓜,或者水萝卜罗勒兔肉;还有一份类目不多但是十分出色的酒单,里面会有风味独特的小众酿酒商酒农香槟(Grower),或是由自身就拥有葡萄园的酒庄使用自己出产的葡萄酿成的葡萄酒。就餐的餐厅恰好也在宏伟的哥特式大教堂兰斯主教座堂(Notre-Dame de Reims)附近,大多数的法国国王都是在这座教堂里加冕登基的。这座教堂可以免费入内参观,因此游客也可以免费享受探索教堂内花窗玻璃的乐趣,其中既有悬挂在大门上方瑰丽无比的中世纪玫瑰窗,也有艺术家保罗·夏卡尔(Paul Chagall)创作的现代花窗。

Moscow

莫斯科

By CHARLY WILDER

作者:CHARLY WILDER

A decade ago, Moscow night life was synonymous with a certain brand of over-the-top opulence, all ’80s pomp and ’90s pout. The new-moneyed elite of the post-Soviet era had left their indelible mark: endless bottle service, velvet ropes, V.I.P. tables, pyrotechnics and gamine go-go dancers.

十年前,莫斯科的夜生活就是某种特定的代名词,象征着过度的奢华,各种80年代的盛况和90年代的挫折。苏联解散后不断涌现的新贵精英,在这里留下了他们不可磨灭的标记:没完没了的整瓶服务、天鹅绒围栏、贵宾桌、炫富和妖冶的艳舞舞女。

Even with Russia’s recent economic downturn and fallout with the West over Ukraine, there’s still no shortage of splashy upscale club culture. The fanciest — Soho Rooms, Krysha and the newer banker favorite Siberia — impose capriciously rigorous door policies (known here as “face control”) and hold parties that would make a Las Vegas stage show look discreet. But the clubbing landscape has diversified in the last 10 years, and many of the newer high-end venues take a more toned-down, or at least tongue-in-cheek, approach.

即便俄罗斯最近惨遭经济衰退,西方世界也为乌克兰带来了负面影响,引人注目的高级俱乐部文化却依然盛行不衰。那些最时髦的经营场所——Soho Rooms、Krysha还有备受新晋银行家青睐的Siberia——实施着单方面严格的入场政策(在当地称为“看脸入场”),举办的派对足以让拉斯维加斯的舞台表演相形失色。不过当地夜总会的经营形式在过去10年里已经愈发多元,许多更新的高档场所都采取了一种更为低调,起码是十分安分守己的姿态。

Moscow’s fashionable artsy set tends to stay out of the flashy clubs, populating instead places like Noor, a Spanish-tiled cocktail bar and gallery that by night turns into one of the city’s chicest parties. To look at the crowd — black-clad, androgynous, stylishly understated — you could be in Lower Manhattan or East London, with nary a neon mini-dress in sight.

莫斯科的时尚艺术圈往往远离那些俗丽的俱乐部,另外扎根于Noor这样的地方,这是一间充满西班牙风情的鸡尾酒吧兼艺术廊,每到夜晚,就会摇身一变,成为这座城市里最时尚的派对会场之一。看看周围的人群,他们一袭黑衣,男女莫辨,有种低调的别致,会让你错以为自己身处曼哈顿下城或伦敦东区,只是连一件霓虹色的迷你裙都看不到。

Another club that bucks the boilerplate is Denis Simachev, owned by the designer of the same name whose brand of punk-opulent postmodern camp has made him big in Russian fashion. This (non)aesthetic permeates the venue: beaded curtains, disco balls and toilets and sinks that double as furnishings, a disused electric chair and a semi-pornographic anime tile mosaic.

另一间以标杆自诩的俱乐部是Denis Simachev,店名沿用了老板自己的名字丹尼斯·西马切夫,他是一名设计师,拥有一个走华丽朋克路线的后现代露营品牌,令他驰名于俄罗斯时尚界。这种(非)审美观渗透了这间会场的方方面面:珠帘,兼作装饰物品的迪斯科舞厅、厕所和水槽,一台已报废的电椅,还有略带色情意味的动漫图案瓷砖镶嵌。

The crowd is young, urbane and gay-friendly, as was Mr. Simachev’s recently closed second nightclub, the Chinese-themed #LOL (yes, really). #LOL played host for the transgender rapper American Mykki Blanco in November when Solyanka, the venue where she was scheduled to perform, was raided and closed that morning. Now, if you want to see 19-year-old Russian boys dressed up like health-goth (think fetish punk meets Soul Cycle) Japanese girls , Denis Simachev is probably your best bet.

这里的顾客年轻斯文,善待同志,就和西马切夫先生最近刚刚停业的第二间夜总会,以中华元素为主题的#LOL(是的,就是这个名字)一样。今年11月,美国跨性别饶舌歌手米基·布兰科(Mykki Blanco)原定用作演出会场的Solyanka遭到抢劫,于当日上午关门停业,便是#LOL接过了主办的重任。现在,如果你想看到19岁的俄罗斯男生打扮成运动哥特风(想象一下恋物癖朋克与精品健身房Soul Cycle的结合体)的日本女生,Denis Simachev大概就是你的最佳选择。

Sprawling riverside Gipsy recently reopened after a six-month hiatus on Krasny Oktyabr, or Red October, an island opposite the Kremlin that is home to the former chocolate factory complex of the same name. There, high-rolling 20-somethings in European designer outfits dance under an electrified ceiling covered in enormous mirror balls while big-name Russian D.J.s spin remixed pop and hip-hop hits on a stage lit up with neon LED. There are palm trees and swimming pools and replicas of famous Soviet socialist-realist statues wearing sunglasses and club regalia. In typical Moscow style, Gipsy’s menu includes sushi, flavored hookah pipes and a drink list that ranges from a 300-ruble cup of tea (about $4.70, at 65 rubles to the dollar) to an 80,000-ruble magnum of Dom Pérignon.

临河而建、占地广阔的Gipsy,经过6个月的沉寂后,在红十月岛(Krasny Oktyabr)上重新开业,这座小岛正对着克里姆林宫,以前曾是同名巧克力加工厂的厂房所在地。俱乐部里,一群20多岁、疯狂舞动的年轻人,穿着欧洲设计师设计的行头,在挂满了巨大镜球的电气化天花板下方舞动,大牌的俄罗斯DJ们则在霓虹灯照耀下的舞台上,打着混音后的流行和嘻哈劲曲。那里有棕榈树,游泳池,还有苏联时期的著名社会写实主义雕像的复制品,上面挂着墨镜和俱乐部的徽章。Gipsy是典型的俄罗斯式俱乐部,菜单内容有寿司,调味水烟管,和一份内容广泛的酒水单,既有300卢布一杯的茶水(按1美元兑65卢布计算,约合4.70美元),也有80,000卢布一瓶的唐培里侬香槟王(Dom Pérignon)。

Though Moscow is not known for its dive bar culture, those in search of cheap night life can find a few standouts. Kitaisky Letchik Djao Da (Russian for Chinese Pilot Jao Da, a semi-mythical character whose exploits are detailed throughout the premises) is a basement bar and rock music space with a lived-in, salon-like atmosphere. Drinks are mostly under 300 rubles, less if you go for the rotating shot specials.

虽然莫斯科的廉价酒吧文化并不出名,不过寻求平民夜生活的人倒是可以在这里找到几处不错的去处。Kitaisky Letchik Djao Da(在俄语中为“中国飞行员Jao Da”之意,这是一位半神话色彩的人物,这间俱乐部里详细地描绘了他的事迹)是一间地下酒吧和摇滚乐空间,内有现场演出,带着一种有如沙龙般的氛围。这里酒水的价格大部分不到300卢布,特调流水酒水的话还要更便宜。

Vtoroe Dyhania (Russian for “Second Wind”), at 10 Pyatnitskiy Periulok, is the last of its kind in Moscow: a 50-year-old authentic Soviet “rumochnaya” or vodka room. It’s a simple room where all-day drinkers, walk-ins and a smattering of ironically outfitted university students stand around tall round tables drinking tap beer and, of course, vodka, which still sells for an incredible one ruble per gram, meaning a 50-gram “rumka” costs about 70 cents. On the exposed-brick walls, framed Soviet bar posters serve as a reminder that before the Champagne and disco balls, Moscow had a different kind of drinking tradition.

Vtoroe Dyhania(俄语中为“重振旗鼓”之意),位于10 Pyatnitskiy Periulok,是莫斯科同类酒吧中的最后一间——拥有50年历史的地道苏联伏特加酒吧(rumochnaya)。它只有一间布置简朴的小屋,那些日夜喝个不停的酒鬼、途经的路人和少量穿得人模人样的大学生们围站在高高的圆桌四周,喝着生啤,当然还有伏特加,每克的价格竟然依然只要1卢布,也就是50克一“份”(rumka,俄罗斯专门用于盛放伏特加的酒杯——译者注)的价格只要70美分。裸露的砖墙上所挂的带框苏联酒吧海报提醒着大家,在香槟和迪斯科球盛行之前,莫斯科曾有另外一种饮酒习俗。

Lisbon

里斯本

By SETH SHERWOOD

作者:SETH SHERWOOD

It’s not quite the razor’s edge, but a walk along Rua da Misericórdia in Lisbon is a walk on the slim frontier that separates Bairro Alto and Chiado, two very different worlds in the heart of the Portuguese capital.

这里并不是什么刀锋,但是沿着里斯本的仁慈大街(Rua da Misericórdia)漫步,的确是行走在一条将上城区(Bairro Alto)与希亚多(Chiado)区隔开来的狭长边界上,将葡萄牙首都的中心地带分割成两个截然不同的世界。

To the west, bohemian Bairro Alto is the graffiti-sprayed warren of vintage stores, hole-in-the wall restaurants, dive bars and live-music venues, where noisy throngs fill the narrow streets until the wee hours.

往西走,住满波西米亚人的上城区,是一处喷满涂鸦的拥挤街区,到处都是些老式商店、简陋饭馆、廉价酒吧和现场音乐表演场地,狭窄的街道里挤满了嘈杂的人群,直到凌晨时分。

Free to enter, Carpe Diem Arte e Pesquisa plunges you into a gloriously faded 16th-century mansion whose maze of aristocratic rooms brim with sweeping staircases, huge fireplaces, panels of blue-painted azulejo tiles, and intricately carved plaster ceilings in varying states of dilapidation. These haunted spaces serve as galleries for exhibitions and site-specific creations by a rotating roster of international contemporary artists that has included the Cameroonian painter Barthélémy Toguo, the Albanian multimedia provocateur Adrian Paci and Portugal’s own tree-branch installation specialist, Gabriela Albergaria.

入场免费的艺术中心Carpe Diem Arte e Pesquisa,将你带入一栋已壮丽褪色的16世纪豪宅,一间间充满贵族气派的房间组成的迷宫中,随处可见弧形的楼梯、巨大的壁炉、白底蓝花的瓷砖,以及精雕细刻但破损程度不一的石膏制天花板。这些充满灵异气息的空间,被一批名单不断变化的国际当代艺术家们用作展览和现场创作的地方,包括喀麦隆画家巴特勒米·托古奧(Barthélémy Toguo)、阿尔巴尼亚多媒体艺术家阿德里安·巴契(Adrian Paci)和葡萄牙树枝装置艺术家加布里埃拉·阿尔贝加里亚(Gabriela Albergaria)在内。

Short on physical comfort but brimming with traditional Portuguese comfort food, Antigo 1° de Maio has drawn generations of discerning Lisbonfolk to its pocket-size room of tiled walls, checkered tablecloths and stiff wooden chairs. The portions are copious from beginning to end, starting with appetizers like escargot or melon with cured ham, moving on to the likes of grilled pork tenderloin and roasted sardines, before finishing in a wave of sweets that includes egg pudding and mango mousse. A three-course meal for two is about 40 euros.

Antigo 1° de Maio餐厅虽然在就餐环境上差了一些,但是供应各种传统的葡萄牙安慰食物,吸引着一代又一代挑剔的里斯本人走进它那仅有口袋般大小,由瓷砖墙面、方格桌布和硬木椅构成的屋子里。这里的食物份量自始至终都十分丰盛,先是以法国蜗牛或冬瓜配腌火腿开胃,接着是烤里脊和烤沙丁鱼之类,最后则以一组包括鸡蛋布丁和芒果慕斯在内的甜点告终。双人份的三道菜午餐,价格约为40欧元。

For a digestive, try a cup of ginja (4 euros), a Portuguese cherry liqueur, in the equally small, rustic and jam-packed confines of Tasca do Chico. Then get out your handkerchief. The bar is a haven of Fado, Portugal’s melancholy seafaring folk music, and stars like Raquel Tavares and Mariza have been known to stop by incognito for impromptu performances. Better still, there’s no cover.

为了帮助消化,不妨到Tasca do Chico那同样狭小、朴素和拥挤的空间内,来一杯樱桃酒(ginja)(4欧元),一种葡萄牙出产的樱桃味利口酒。然后就掏出你的手帕吧。这间酒吧是欣赏葡萄牙悱恻动人的海上民谣——法朵(Fado)的最佳去处,据说拉奎尔·塔瓦雷斯(Raquel Tavares)、玛瑞莎(Mariza)等明星均曾匿名在这里即兴演出过。不过更妙的是,这里没有任何曲目是翻唱的。

The extra money will be useful in Chiado, east of Rua da Misericórdia, which beckons with fashion boutiques, design emporiums, centuries-old churches, historic theaters and the city’s top gastronomic palace.

其余的预算在仁慈大街(Rua da Misericórdia)东边的希亚多(Chiado)会大有用处,这里的时装精品店、设计商场、古老教堂、历史悠久的剧院和城市里的顶级美食殿堂均在召唤着你。

Keen to eat from a platter decorated with half-unicorn men and zebra-bodied women cavorting in a garden of exotic butterflies and dragonflies? The boutique of Vista Alegre — a Portuguese manufacturer of high-end porcelain, ceramics and crystal since the 19th century — showcases a line of dinnerware decorated by the French fashion designer Christian Lacroix. Mythical creatures and other exotic fauna (and flora) animate the series, from dessert plates (29 euros) to teapots (180 euros).

想要从饰有独角兽人与雌性斑马人在满园异国情调的蝴蝶与蜻蜓环绕下嬉戏图案的浅盘中品尝美食吗?创建于19世纪的葡萄牙高档陶瓷水晶制品制造商Vista Alegre所出产的精品,展示了一系列由法国时装设计师克里斯汀·拉克鲁瓦(Christian Lacroix)负责装饰的餐具。无论是甜点盘(29欧元)还是茶壶(180欧元),神话生物及其他异域动(植)物的图案均令这些瓷器栩栩如生。

Or let Belcanto serve you. The decades-old institution was reopened in 2012 by the Portuguese celebrity chef José Avillez and already has two Michelin stars, the only restaurant in Lisbon with that honor. Centered on nouveau Portuguese cuisine, the à la carte menu might feature suckling pig with orange and potatoes, beef loin with bone marrow and garlic purée, or sea bass with seaweed and bivalves. Tasting menus are available for 125 and 145 euros.

或者让自己享受一下Belcanto的服务。这间拥有数十年历史的机构,由葡萄牙名厨何塞·阿维列兹(José Avillez)在2012年重新开张,现已拥有米其林两星级评级,是里斯本唯一享有这一荣誉的餐厅。以新式葡萄牙料理为核心,单品菜单的内容可能有乳猪配柳橙马铃薯,牛里脊配骨髓蒜蓉酱,或是鲈鱼配海草和贝类。这里提供的特选套餐分为125欧元和145欧元两种。

For a recap and a nightcap, survey the glowing city from the top-floor terrace bar of Hotel do Chiado, which was designed in part by the Pritzker Prize-winning Portuguese architect Álvaro Siza Vieira. With a port-wine mojito (11 euros) or frothy Chiado Lovers cocktail (vodka, coconut cream, cocoa cream and hot sauce, 10 euros) in hand, you can spot the battlements of the hilltop Castle of São Jorge, the Tagus River flowing toward the Atlantic, and the rest of Lisbon: dirt-cheap, gold-plated and beyond.

作为一天的告终,也为了睡前酒,我从奇亚多酒店(Hotel do Chiado)的顶楼露台酒吧中俯瞰着这座流光溢彩的城市,其中有部分正是葡萄牙建筑师、普立兹大奖(Pritzker)得主阿尔瓦罗·西扎·维埃拉(Alvaro Siza Vieira)的设计成果。端起一杯波特酒莫吉托(11欧元)或多泡的希亚多恋人(Chiado Lovers)鸡尾酒(伏特加、椰浆、可可奶油和辣椒酱调制,10欧元),你可以端详着山顶上的圣乔治城堡(Castle of São Jorge)的城垛,流向大西洋方向的塔霍河(Tagus River),还有里斯本其余的一切:亲民、镀金以及超越了这些的一切。

Copenhagen

哥本哈根

By LISA ABEND

作者:LISA ABEND

Not long ago, Copenhagen was a culinary wasteland of pickled herring and gloppy salads on rye bread. That began to change in 2003, when the restaurant Noma introduced a cuisine that made creative use of the Nordic region’s edible landscape, and transformed the Danish capital into the objective of a culinary pilgrimage.

就在不久之前,哥本哈根在美食方面还是一处蛮荒之地,只有盐渍鲱鱼和抹有黏糊沙拉的黑麦面包。这一切在2003年开始有了变化,Noma餐厅推出了一道创意料理,使用了北欧地区的特有食材,并将这座丹麦的首都转变成了一处美食圣地。

It wasn’t long before some of those who worked under René Redzepi branched out on their own — Christian Puglisi, a former sous chef, for instance, just celebrated his restaurant Relae’s fifth birthday. Now, while Mr. Redzepi is taking Noma in new directions — including reopening his restaurant as an urban farm — those who trained under him are no longer simply riffing on Nordic themes, but expanding or even discarding the New Nordic label altogether. Best of all, they’re doing so at all price levels.

没过多久,那些曾在雷内·雷哲华(René Redzepi)手下工作过的人员,纷纷各自开拓出了自己的事业——比如当年的副厨师长克里斯汀·普利西(Christian Puglisi),刚刚为他的餐厅Relae庆祝完五岁生日。如今,雷哲华先生正在将Noma带往新的方向,包括以城市农场的形式重开这间餐厅,那些曾在他手下受训的厨师,也不再单纯地复制北欧风格的料理,而是拓展乃至整个抛弃掉“新式北欧”这一标签。最赞的是,他们的这种做法在不同级别的价位领域均有涉及。

On the expensive side are Amass and Studio. Graffiti runs along a concrete wall in Amass’s dining room, a clue that the chef, Matt Orlando, does not adhere entirely to the Nordic playbook. Although the restrained artistry of his dishes — they often look as if they were recovered from some extraordinarily beautiful forest floor — reflects the influence of his stint as head chef at Noma, the flavors here, in, say, St. John’s wort leaves stuffed with a creamy pea purée, are less acidic than the typical Nordic ones.

若想品尝昂贵的料理,可以选择Amass和Studio。Amass餐室的水泥墙上涂鸦遍布,似乎昭示着餐厅大厨马特·奥兰多(Matt Orlando)不会完全拘泥于传统的北欧料理。虽然他所做的料理呈现出的美感十分有限,常常看上去像是从某块极为美丽的林地中回收来的一样,这也跟他在Noma担任主厨时的节俭习惯有关,但是Amass这里的口味,比如说贯叶连翘叶卷奶油豌豆泥,就没有典型的北欧做法那么酸。

That makes sense: Mr. Orlando is from California, which may explain his restaurant’s laid-back vibe. Dinner often ends with patrons gathered outside around a bonfire. Tasting menu starts at 595 kroner (about $93, at 6.40 Danish kroner to the dollar).

这倒也不奇怪:奥兰多先生本人来自美国的加利福尼亚州,这或许可以解释他的餐厅里为何会有如此悠闲的氛围。晚餐通常会以老顾客们齐聚到外面围在篝火四周告终。特选套餐售价595克朗起(按1美元兑6.40丹麦克朗计算,约合93美元)。

There are no bonfires at Studio, which is all about refinement. Located in an old customs house, its sleek dining room juts out over Copenhagen’s harbor. At the helm is Torsten Vildgaard, who worked for many years as Noma’s research chef, developing many of the restaurant’s dishes. On his own, he’s allowed some of his French proclivities to slip into lovely dishes strewn with Nordic-style flowers and foraged herbs. A small heap of shaved truffles tops a perfectly poached quail egg, served wittily in a carton of untouched ones; brown butter adds caramelized flavors to what may be the world’s best monkfish. Tasting menu for dinner starts at 900 kroner, though there is a lunch menu for 450.

Studio里没有篝火,而是主打一种精致的氛围。这间时尚的餐厅建在一座古老的海关大厦里,就悬在哥本哈根的海港上方。掌舵的是托斯腾·维尔德高(Torsten Vildgaard),他曾在Noma做了很多年的研发厨师,Noma有很多菜式都是他开发的。在他自己的餐厅里,他则将自己身为法国人的一些脾性引入其中,用充满北欧风格的花卉和食用药草,创造出一道道的可爱料理。将一小堆去柄松露堆在一只全熟的水煮鹌鹑蛋上,然后俏皮地夹在一盒原封未动的松露中间上桌;焦化黄油为大概算是世界上最棒的安康鱼添加了几分焦糖的味道。特选套餐中的晚餐售价900克朗起,午餐售价450克朗起。

On the affordable end of the scale is Hija de Sánchez. Passers-by at the Torvehallerne food market often marvel at the hand-cranked machine that turns out perfect tortillas at this stand. There is reason for them to marvel even more: Until recently, Rosio Sánchez was Noma’s pastry chef. Now she has opened the kind of place dear to her Mexican-American heart: a taquería. But these are hardly ordinary tacos: The sweetly savory mole sauce gets its depth from some 28 ingredients, the queso fresco is handmade from Danish milk, and those astonishingly good tortillas are made of Oaxacan corn that Ms. Sánchez mills herself. Three-taco combo plate, 100 kroner.

若要寻求价格实惠的餐厅,那就是Hija de Sánchez了。Torvehallerne食品市场里的路人,常常惊叹于能够现场制作出完美玉米饼的手摇机。其实还有一点能够让他们更为惊叹:直到不久前,罗西奥·桑切斯(Rosio Sánchez)还是Noma的糕点师。如今她则自己开了一间更受她那颗墨西哥裔美籍心珍视的地方——一间玉米饼店。但是这些可不是什么普通的玉米饼:甜香的巧克力辣椒酱(mole sauce)所拥有的独特口感来自28种原料,鲜奶酪(queso fresco)是用丹麦牛奶手工制成,那些格外美味的玉米饼则是用桑切斯女士亲自用瓦哈卡玉米磨制的玉米粉制作。三份塔可套餐售价100克朗。

Christian Puglisi also honors his roots — he’s half-Sicilian — with his newest enterprise, Baest. A rollicking pizzeria, it too pays obsessive attention to its ingredients: The salumi is made and cured in-house from local organic pork, and the mozzarella, made from Danish milk, is pulled by hand. The pizzas, like one with creamy burrata and leeks, are cooked in the open kitchen’s wood-burning oven, and are as good as any you’ll find in Italy. Dinner for one, not counting drinks or tip, about 200 kroner.

克里斯汀·普利西同样十分尊敬自己的出身——在他身上流淌着一半西西里岛人的血液——这在他最近新开的餐厅Baest身上也有所体现。这是一间气氛欢快的披萨店,同样对原料诸多注重:腌肉是用本土有机猪肉加工腌制而成,以丹麦牛奶为原料的马苏里拉奶酪也是用人工撕成细丝。这些比萨,比如一张布拉塔芝士加韭菜风味的,是用开放式厨房里的柴炉烤成,均不逊色于你在意大利能找到的任何一家。一人份晚餐,不包括酒水和小费,大约200克朗。

There are other noteworthy additions to the “former chef of Noma” list, including, at the high end, Taller, which specializes in a refined version of Karlos Ponte’s native Venezuelan cuisine; and, at the other, the cozy Café Lillebror, where whiskey porridge at breakfast and excellent sandwiches at lunch give way to a creative, accomplished tasting menu at dinner. Is it Nordic? In Copenhagen, at least, it no longer seems to matter.

这份“Noma前任厨师”的名单上还有另外几个值得注意的名字,其中有走高档路线的Taller,专擅改良卡洛斯·彭特(Karlos Ponte)的本土委内瑞拉料理;还有走平民路线、舒适惬意的Café Lillebror,早餐时的威士忌粥和午餐时的美味三明治,都比不上晚餐时充满创意、面面俱到的特选套餐。这些都算是北欧料理吗?至少在哥本哈根,这一点已不再那么重要。

Madrid

马德里

By ANDREW FERREN

作者:ANDREW FERREN

It’s not often that a prime and picturesque neighborhood gets the snub from travelers because its shops, restaurants and other establishments are considered too nice. But that’s what some visitors do with Barrio de Salamanca in Madrid, perhaps the city’s toniest enclave, often (and rather aptly) compared to the Upper East Side of Manhattan. While Salamanca’s streets aren’t paved with gold, the barrio does support a surprising density of jewelers, galleries, antiques dealers and luxury fashion houses where prices are, more often than not, sky high. On weekday mornings, rivers of tartan course along the sidewalks as uniformed children scamper off to the area’s many private schools.

一处风景如画的一流街区,因为商店、餐厅及其他设施都好得过头而受到游客的冷落,这种情形并不多见。但这正是部分游客对马德里的萨拉曼卡区(Barrio de Salamanca)所抱持的态度,这里大概算是这座城市里最豪华的飞地,堪与美国曼哈顿的上东区比肩。萨拉曼卡的街道虽非黄金铺就,但在这处西班牙市郊中,却随处可见密密麻麻的珠宝店、画廊、古董店和奢侈时装店,其中的价格往往高达天际。每个工作日的早晨,人行道上都能看到一片苏格兰格子的海洋,这是身着制服的孩子们正在蹦蹦跳跳地涌向位于这处地区的多所私立学校。

But for anyone hoping to savor the true essence of Madrid, even upper-crust Barrio Salamanca has price points ranging from modest to free. Among its cultural treasures is the newly renovated Museo Arqueologico Nacional (admission 3 euros, or about $3.30), which showcases the art and history of the country’s first indigenous peoples as well as the waves of colonizers — Greek, Roman, Moorish — who came here from across the Mediterranean.

但是对于那些想要尽情感受马德里精髓所在的人而言,即便是萨拉曼卡区这样的上流社会街区,也有价格从适中到完全免费的地方可去。当地的文化瑰宝之一,便是新近翻修完毕的国立考古博物馆(Museo Arqueologico Nacional)(门票3欧元,约合3.30美元),里面陈列着该国首批原住民以及后继的一批又一批跨越地中海来到这里的殖民者——希腊人、罗马人、摩尔人——所创造的艺术与历史。

If you prefer your art a bit more recent, head straight up Calle Serrano to the Museo Lázaro-Galdiano (admission 6 euros, with a free hour each afternoon) where works by the likes of El Greco, Murillo and Goya share galleries with decorative arts. Other neighborhood cultural beacons include the Fundación Carlos de Amberes, and the Fundación Juan March; both are free and offer temporary exhibitions, concerts and lectures.

如果你更希望观赏近代一些的艺术,不妨一直沿着塞拉诺街(Calle Serrano)走到加迪亚诺博物馆(Museo Lázaro-Galdiano)(门票6欧元,每天下午有一个小时的免费参观时间),里面既有格雷考(El Greco)、穆里略(Murillo)和戈雅(Goya)这类大师级画家的作品,也能看到装饰性艺术风格的作品。周边的其他文化信标还有安特卫普卡洛斯基金会(Fundación Carlos de Amberes)和胡安·马奇基金会(Fundación Juan March),两者均可免费参观,并且提供临时展览、音乐会和讲座。

Gastronomically speaking, the neighborhood is equally varied. Drop into Jurucha for tapas and aperitifs (2 to 3 euros), and, as winter’s chill sets in, consider Taberna de la Daniela for a siesta-inducing cocido, the traditional Madrileño stew of garbanzos, vegetables and pork that is served in three courses for 26.50 euros.

就美食方面而言,这里也同样给出了十分多样的选择。路过Jurucha时,不妨进去尝尝那里的餐前小吃(tapas)和开胃酒(2~3欧元);冬日寒意降临后,可以考虑到Taberna de la Daniela尝尝诱人入睡的菜炖肉(cocido),一种用鹰嘴豆、蔬菜和猪肉烹制的传统马德里炖煮佳肴,三道菜套餐售价26.50欧元。

If a nap is not in your future, try Magasand, the favored gathering spot for fashionistas who snack on sandwiches (5 to 7 euros) while perusing design magazines. If you’re willing to stand in line, the new Gourmet Experience food court at the El Corte Inglés department store at Calle Serrano 52 claims seven Michelin stars among its seventh-floor food-stall vendors with outlets by Jordi Roca, Roberto Ruiz and David Muñoz. A meal at Mr. Muñoz’s sit-down StreetXO costs around 40 euros; you can graze at the other stalls for less.

如果你从来没有想过午间小憩,可以试试Magasand,这里是备受青睐的时尚达人聚集地,他们常在这里一边吃三明治(5~7欧元)一边认真阅读设计类杂志。如果你愿意排队等候,位于塞拉诺街52号(Calle Serrano 52)的英格列斯百货(El Corte Inglés)里新开了一间Gourmet Experience食品超市,据说在七楼的食阁摊贩中,有7家米其林级摊位,包括乔迪·罗卡(Jordi Roca)、罗伯特·鲁伊斯(Roberto Ruiz)和大卫·穆尼奥斯(David Muñoz)开设的摊位。穆尼奥斯先生的坐食摊位StreetXO,人均开销大约在40欧元;你也可以在其他外带摊位里买到更便宜一些的美食。

Confiteria Rialto has been selling crisp and delicate Marcona-almond and chocolate moscovita wafers (250 grams for 12 euros) for more than 80 years. At La Húngara it’s all about the sweet charms (chocolate and raspberry 10 ways) of Austro-Hungarian desserts, which range in price from 1.50 to 10 euros.

Confiteria Rialto已经卖酥脆精美的马尔科纳杏仁白巧克力华夫饼(250克售价12欧元)卖了80多年。在La Húngara,一切则都是围绕着奥匈式甜品的(10种巧克力和覆盆子口味的)甜蜜魅力展开,价格从1.50欧元到10欧元不等。

For wearable souvenirs, Renatta & Go (T-shirts start about 15 euros) has chic casual wear for women and girls, and all that glitters is merely gold-plated at Aristocrazy (rings from 50 euros), which does a booming business in costume jewelry.

若要寻找穿戴类的纪念品,Renatta & Go(T恤售价从15欧元左右起)有别致的女性休闲服饰出售,还有Aristocrazy,那里所有亮晶晶的东西都是镀金制品(戒指售价从50欧元起),在饰品领域的生意十分兴隆。

Last year the Spanish fast-fashion emporium Zara (dresses from 30 euros) opened an elegant and very full-service new flagship on Calle Serrano, and its Massimo Dutti division has restarted a bespoke men's wear line (custom suits from 400 euros) under the aegis of the society style maven Rafael Medina Abascal, bringing a new clientele to the brand. Other local haberdashers like Lander Urquijo and Patch Mercantile’s Curro Ariza do their part to keep the local gentry looking fine at reasonable prices (shirts, 40 to 90 euros; 80-euro jeans) especially considering the quality of the fabrics and tailoring.

去年,西班牙的快时尚商场ZARA(服饰售价30欧元起)在塞拉诺街开了一间格调雅致、服务全面的新旗舰店,它旗下的另一品牌Massimo Dutti,也在社会时尚大师拉斐尔·梅迪纳·阿瓦斯卡尔(Rafael Medina Abascal)的加盟下,重新开辟了一条定制男装产品线(定制西装售价400欧元起),为这跟品牌带来了一个新的客户群体。其他的本地男装店,譬如Lander Urquijo和帕奇商业公司(Patch Mercantile)的Curro Ariza,均尽到了本份,以合理的价格提供款式精致的本地绅士服饰(衬衫售价40~90欧元;牛仔裤80欧元),尤其是就其布料和裁剪的品质而言。

So whether your budget is 20, 200 or 2,000 euros per day, Madrid’s Barrio de Salamanca is worth getting to know.

因此,不论你的预算是日均20欧元、200欧元还是2,000欧元,马德里的萨拉曼卡区都值得你去了解一下。

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