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36小时玩转柏林

更新时间:2015-10-11 10:07:51 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

36 Hours in Berlin
36小时玩转柏林

There are few cities in the world that transform themselves as profoundly from season to season as Berlin. The purgatorial winter, with its lightless days and frigid nights, gives way to four months of balmy intoxication. Cafe and gallery culture spills out into graffitied alleyways; the parks fill with techno D.J.s, nudists and picnicking families; and young people arrive by the planeload from Brooklyn, Copenhagen and East London to take part in an open-air night-life scene that is equal parts “Paris Is Burning” and “A Midsummer Night’s Dream.” But even as the hype of the last decade has made the city a magnet for tourists, Berlin remains a place for the strange and libertine, where the radical left still nips at the heels of neoliberalism, where snapping photos in public is often more taboo than smoking a joint, and where people seldom ask what it is you “do.”

世上很少有城市会像柏林那样,在不同的季节中,出现如此巨大的转变。炼狱般的严冬,以及昏暗的白日与寒冷的夜晚,为芳香宜人令人沉醉的四个月让开了道路。咖啡馆与画廊文化蔓延到一条条遍布涂鸦的小巷中;公园内到处都是电音DJ、裸体主义者和野餐的家庭;年轻人搭乘飞机,从布鲁克林、哥本哈根和东伦敦远道而来,加入到这里的露天夜生活中,场面堪比《巴黎在燃烧》(Paris Is Burning)与《仲夏夜之梦》(A Midsummer Night’s Dream)。但是,尽管过去十年里的大肆炒作让柏林对游客产生了莫大的吸引力,这里依然是一座属于怪人与浪子的城市,激进左派仍在紧咬着新自由主义的痛脚不放,在公共场合拍照常常会比抽大麻更加忌讳,人们也很少会过问你是干什么的。

Berlin bursts with a creative spirit that is on full display in cutting-edge restaurants, performance spots and art, both on and off the street.
柏林因创意精神而生机勃勃,这充分体现在那些在街上或隐秘在角落的高端餐厅、表演场所和艺术当中。

Friday

周五

1. Volk on the Water | 3 p.m.

1. 活在水上的德国人:下午3:00

Come summer, Berlin’s 122 miles of inner-city waterways turn into a thoroughfare thronged with kayaks, tourist vessels and the occasional party raft. A one-hour boat tour starting and ending at the Hauptbahnhof pier, offered by Reederei Riedel for 12 euros a person (about $12.75 at $1.07 to the euro), allows you to take in the city’s historic center while relaxing with brezel and bier. You’ll pass the Reichstag, Germany’s Norman Foster-redesigned house of Parliament, once burned down by the Nazis as part of Hitler’s government takeover and later bombed by the Allies; the old border crossing at Friedrichstrasse station known as the Tränenpalast (Palace of Tears) where East Germans once bid doleful goodbye to their Western visitors; and Museum Island, which houses the city’s great collection of antiquities. Check out progress on the Stadtschloss, or City Palace, the massive, controversial project to resurrect Berlin’s imperial palace, scheduled for completion by 2019.

夏日在即,柏林共计122英里长的城市水道变成了一条通路,挤满了橡皮船、观光船和偶尔出没的救生筏。里德尔游船公司(Reederei Riedel)提供从中央码头出发,航行一小时后再回到中央码头的航船路线,每人收费12欧元(按1.07美元兑换1欧元计算,约合12.75美元),让你可以一边惬意地享用扭结面包和啤酒,一边游览柏林的历史中心。你会途经由诺曼·福斯特(Norman Foster)重新设计的议会大厦——德意志国民议会(Reichstag),这栋大厦曾在被希特勒政府占领时惨遭纳粹焚毁,后来又遭到了同盟国的轰炸;东西两德的旧边界则位于弗里德里希(Friedrichstrasse)车站处,这里有一栋名为“泪宫”(Tränenpalast)的建筑,当年东德就是在这里与西德的来访者哀痛道别的;还有博物馆岛(Museum Island),这里存放着这座城市里大量的宝贵古董。再去看看城市宫殿(Stadtschloss)的修建进度,这是一项引起诸多争议的大型建设工程,旨在重现柏林的帝国皇宫的往昔风采,预计将于2019年竣工。

2. Orient on the Canal | 5 p.m.

2. 运河上的市集:下午5:00

Every Tuesday and Friday, the Turkish Market spreads out along a stretch of the Landwehr Canal in the fast-gentrifying “Kreuzkölln” neighborhood, where the old leftist-bohemian district of Kreuzberg meets Neukölln, an area long populated by Turkish, Kurdish and Arab immigrants. Residents descend on market days, as louche Australian graphic designers and matriarchs in headscarves haggle with men hawking their wares in a loud Turkish-German patois. Tucked among the produce, spices and textiles are unexpected delights: artisanal Dutch licorice; quark, a fermented dairy product, flavored with rhubarb or dark chocolate; and locally designed jewelry. Afterward, cross the Kottbusser Bridge for a drop-in at Hard Wax, a revered record store in a canalside courtyard that’s still a haunt for the D.J.s and audio geeks who fuel the city’s electronic music scene.

在迅速实现“绅士化”的时尚地标克罗伊茨克尔恩(Kreuzkölln)附近,每逢星期二和星期五,土耳其市集(Turkish Market)都会沿着兰德维尔运河(Landwehr Canal)一字排开,古老的左派波希米亚区克罗伊茨贝格(Kreuzberg),与长期居住着土耳其、库尔德和阿拉伯移民的地区新克尔恩(Neukölln),就在这里发生了交集。居民在市集开张的日子里蜂拥而至,品行不端的澳大利亚平面设计师和裹着头巾的女家长,在一片嘈杂的土耳其口音德语方言中,与摆摊的商贩们讨价还价。在一堆农产品、香料和纺织品之间,藏着教人意想不到的收获:手工荷兰甘草糖,奶渣(经过大黄或黑巧克力调味的发酵乳制品),还有本土设计的珠宝首饰。随后,穿过Kottbusser Bridge,去逛一下Hard Wax,这间备受推崇的唱片店就坐落在运河岸边的庭院里,依然是DJ和音频发烧友的必去之地,为这座城市的电子音乐加油。

3. Neue Deutsche Küche | 7 p.m.

3. 德国新美食:晚上7:00

Only in recent years has Berlin’s food culture begun to catch up with its other creative outpourings. The current bellwether is Nobelhart & Schmutzig, opened by the sommelier Billy Wagner, who previously helmed the Michelin-starred Rutz Wine Bar. Diners fill 26 counter seats that wrap around an elegant open kitchen, where the staff prepares a prix fixe 10-course meal of Nordic-inflected new-German cuisine (80 euros). Surprising, delectable dishes — like raw char filled with brown butter-braised bread crumbs or celeriac soup poured over lamb fat jelly and green peas — uproot all notions of pork and sauerkraut. Reservations essential.

直到最近几年,柏林的饮食文化才终于开始追赶其他那些创意泉涌之地。当前的业内佼佼者是品酒师比利·瓦格纳(Billy Wagne)开的Nobelhart & Schmutzig,他以前是米其林级餐厅Rutz Wine Bar的掌门人。餐厅内共有26个吧台坐席,绕着一间格调高雅的开放式厨房排成一圈,餐厅的工作人员就在这间厨房里,为客人准备一客共含10道菜的北欧风味新式德国美食(80欧元)。教人惊喜的是,这些美味佳肴,比如用生鲑鱼做馅的黑黄油焖面包渣,或者是羊脂冻配青豌豆浇芹菜汤,彻底抛弃了用猪肉和德国泡菜制成的所有传统菜式。一定要提前订位。

4. Beau Monde Booze | 10 p.m.

4. 上流社会的酒宴:晚上10:00

Grab an exotic nightcap at Le Croco Bleu, a rakish cocktail bar that opened in 2013 in the cavernous former engine room of the 19th-century Bötzow Brewery building in Prenzlauer Berg. The newest venture by Gregor Scholl, the man behind the cultish Westend bar Rum Trader, Le Croco Bleu has the feel of a postindustrial curiosity cabinet: teardrop crystal chandeliers, exposed pipes, disused machinery, taxidermied beasts and glass vitrines of aged liquors. But the cocktails are the main event. Mixed with alchemical precision, the monthly rotating selection features rare extravagances like the Prince of Wales, a heady mix of Pierre Ferrand 1840 Cognac, Dry Orange Curaçao, DOM Benedictine and Champagne.

普伦茨劳贝格(Prenzlauer Berg)有一栋建于19世纪的文创中心大楼Bötzow Brewery,当中有一间洞穴状的轮机房,在2013年时被改建成了一间风格俏皮的鸡尾酒吧Le Croco Bleu,可以来这里要一杯充满异域风情的睡前酒。吸引了一群狂热信徒的西区酒吧Rum Trader,背后的男人名叫格雷戈尔·舍尔(Gregor Scholl),Le Croco Bleu正是他的最新产业,这里的气氛仿佛后工业时期的古玩店:泪状水晶枝形吊灯,暴露在外的管道,废旧的机械,用剥制法制作的野兽标本,还有陈列着陈年烈酒的玻璃橱窗。但是鸡尾酒才是这里的主角。这里对勾兑精确度的讲究堪比炼金术,酒单每月轮换一次,为客人呈献难得的奢侈调酒“威尔斯亲王”(Prince of Wales),这杯令人醺醺然的佳酿用皮埃尔费朗干邑1840(Pierre Ferrand 1840 Cognac)、干橙力娇酒(Dry Orange Curaçao)、法国廊酒(DOM Benedictine)和香槟酒勾兑而成。

5. Modern Times | 10 a.m.

5. 艺术的摩登时代:上午10:00

What city experienced the 20th century with more ferocity than Berlin? See that history refracted in two starkly different art collections. Reopened in 2015, the refurbished public Berlinische Galerie houses works by 20th-century artists of the Berlin Secession, Expressionist, Dada and New Objectivity movements: the haunting Weimar-era oil portraiture of Otto Dix, George Grosz’s pen-and-ink prostitutes and automatons and Hannah Höch’s radical photomontages, among other gems (entrance, 8 euros). Then, if you’ve wrangled a spot on the monthlong waiting list, fast-forward to the 1990s and beyond with a visit to the Sammlung Boros, a stunning private collection housed in a former Nazi bunker, which includes vivid installations by Olafur Eliasson and Ai Weiwei, the photographer Wolfgang Tillmans’ intimate portraits of ’90s club kids (and Kate Moss) and works by the Welsh conceptual artist Cerith Wyn Evans (entrance, 12 euros).

还有哪座城市在20世纪经历过的暴行比柏林还多?这里有两组完全不同的艺术品,可从中一窥历史的痕迹。翻修后于2015年重新开张的柏林画廊(Berlinische Galerie),存放着在20世纪的柏林分离派、表现派、达达主义和新客观主义运动中涌现的艺术家的作品:在诸多珍品当中尤为值得一提的,有奥托·迪克斯(Otto Dix)令人过目难忘的魏玛时期肖像油画,乔治·格罗兹(George Grosz)的水墨作品妓女与机器人,还有汉娜·霍克(Hannah Höch)那些先锋的蒙太奇摄影作品(门票:8欧元)。然后,如果你能想办法在长达一个月的等待名单上争得一席之地,不妨参观一下波洛斯私人收藏馆(Sammlung Boros),去往20世纪90年代以及更现代的时期。这是一间令人惊艳的私人收藏馆,坐落在一座战争时期的纳粹掩体内,馆内既有奥拉维尔·埃利亚松(Olafur Eliasson)和艾未未创作的个性鲜明的装置艺术作品,也有摄影师沃尔夫冈·提尔曼斯(Wolfgang Tillmans)为90年代的俱乐部儿童(还有凯特·摩斯[Kate Moss])拍摄的私人摄影,以及威尔士的概念派艺术家塞里斯·怀恩·埃文斯(Cerith Wyn Evans)的作品(门票:12欧元)。

6. Stone Age Brunch | 1 p.m.

6. 旧石器时代早午餐:下午1:00

The paleo diet has taken hold in Berlin thanks largely to Sauvage. The restaurant serves up dishes like roasted bone marrow on rosemary-and-cassava-flour toast and paleo pancakes made with tiger nut, chestnut and cassava. Brunch is about 15 euros.

旧石器时代的饮食已在柏林生根发芽,这在很大程度上都要归功于Sauvage餐厅。这家餐厅供应的都是迷迭香木薯粉吐司烤骨髓,或者用油莎豆、板栗与木薯制成的原始煎饼这类菜肴。早午餐价格约为15欧元。

7. Artful Lots | 2 p.m.

7. 惬意的绿化地:下午2:00

In 2009, a group of ambitious gardeners took over a vacant lot in Kreuzberg and began its transformation into a social-urban-agricultural venture, Prinzessinnengarten, that is now one of the city’s loveliest green spaces. Compost beds burst with organic herbs and vegetables. There’s a wooded garden restaurant and cafe, a recycling center and spaces for workshops and community events, such as a recent collaboration with a refugee organization whose protests against German asylum policy have thrust the issue into the public eye. The creatively inclined should cross the street for a browse through Germanic art supply heaven. Planet Modulor, a multistory “creative department store,” includes a bookstore, a cafe and a 3-D printing studio that will transform your snapshot into a photorealistic sculpture.

2009年,一批心怀壮志的园丁接手了克罗伊茨贝格的一块空地,开始将它改造成一处社会化城市农业的试验田“王子花园”(Prinzessinnengarten),如今则已成为这座城市里最为可爱的绿化环境之一。堆肥田上长满了有机香草和蔬菜。园内有一间藏身于树林花园的餐厅与咖啡厅,一处回收中心也可用于开展工作坊与社区活动,他们最近就与一个抗议德国难民政策的难民组织组织了一场联合活动,将这个问题推入了公众的视野。喜欢创造性事物的人,应该走到街道对面,浏览一下日耳曼艺术的摇篮。Planet Modulor是一间跨越数个楼层的“创意百货商店”,内有书店、咖啡厅和3D打印工作室,能将你的图纸转化为栩栩如生的实物模型。

8. Fame on the Spree | 9 p.m.

8. 河上餐厅:晚上9:00

Fame, a restaurant inside a repurposed railroad storage facility that juts over the Spree, is the newest venture from the collective behind the techno club Bar25, which anchored the after-hours scene of the 2000s. Bar25 was shuttered as part of the controversial Mediaspree project, a city initiative to develop property once part of the “death strip” between East and West Berlin. The group wrested the site back from developers and opened Fame last May, along with a nightclub next door called Kater Blau. The electric-kool-aid-carnival-shack aesthetic prevails, and the restaurant’s Spree-side terrace alone makes it worth a visit. The rotating menu features dishes like mascarpone polenta with raw marinated Beelitz asparagus, and Argentine beef fillet in red wine reduction. Dinner for two with drinks is around 100 euros. Afterward, have a go at Kater Blau or any of the other clubs that line the riverbanks of Friedrichshain and Kreuzberg.

Fame餐厅位于一间架空在施普雷河(Spree)之上,翻修自铁路仓库的建筑,是电子音乐俱乐部Bar25的经营团队最新开拓的又一项产业,目标瞄准了晚上8点以后的下班时间。Bar25在备受争议的施普雷媒体工程(Mediaspree)中关门大吉,该工程倡议在东西柏林之间原有的这块“死亡带”上兴建物业。这支团队从开发商手中争回了这块土地,于去年5月开了这家餐厅Fame,同时还在隔壁开了一间夜总会Kater Blau。这间配备了各种酷炫电子设备的狂欢小屋所呈现的美学大受顾客欢迎,光是架空在施普雷河畔之上的露台就让这间餐厅值得一游。定期轮换的菜单提供的菜肴有马斯卡普尼干酪玉米粥配生卤贝利兹芦笋,还有阿根廷牛柳配红酒。两人份晚餐加酒水约为100欧元。其后,可以去Kater Blau或弗里德里希斯海因和克罗伊茨贝格的河畔上的任何一家俱乐部。

9. Honor your Elders | 10 a.m.

9. 向画廊中的长者致敬:上午10:00

They may lack the grandeur of old masters collections in other cities, but the medieval and Renaissance European paintings at the Gemäldegalerie must be some of the world’s most alluring. Organized geographically and chronologically, the collection includes works by Caravaggio, Rubens and Raphael, but it’s the eastern half of the museum holding the 13th- to 17th-century German, Dutch and Flemish works that will take your breath away. Inscrutable beauties gaze out from religious works by Lucas Cranach the Elder. The sideways glance of a Hanseatic merchant seems to one-up his detractors across five centuries in a portrait by Hans Holbein the Younger, and Petrus Christus’s eerie Netherlandish maidens and demons evoke Bach, heavy metal and Alexander McQueen. Admission, 10 euros.

这里或许缺少其他城市有的那种壮观华丽的老一辈大师作品,但是柏林画廊(Gemäldegalerie)里的中世纪油画和文艺复兴时期的欧洲油画,一定是世界上最有魅力的收藏之一。这些藏品按创作地点和时间顺序排列,其中不乏卡拉瓦乔(Caravaggio)、鲁本斯(Rubens)和拉斐尔(Raphael)的佳作,然而它还只是这座博物馆的东半翼而已,整座博物馆里收藏着13世纪至17世纪的德国、荷兰和佛兰芒的作品,足以教你叹为观止。老卢卡斯·克拉纳赫(Lucas Cranach the Elder)的宗教画中,高深莫测的美女眺望着画外的地方。在路边对汉萨商人的匆匆一瞥,就让小汉斯·霍尔拜因(Hans Holbein the Younger)画出了一幅肖像画,在整整五个世纪里都遥遥领先于他的批评者们。而彼得鲁斯·克里斯蒂(Petrus Christus)笔下怪异的荷兰少女与恶魔,则教人想起了巴赫(Bach)、重金属和亚历山大·麦昆(Alexander McQueen)。门票:10欧元。

10. Bangkok in Berlin | Noon

10. 柏林里的泰国公园:正午

Every Sunday, in the sleepy western district of Wilmersdorf, a giant open-air Southeast Asian food market known as Thai Park unfurls across leafy Prussian Park. Thai women stir-fry over hot plates, pour milky, pumpkin-colored Ceylon tea over crushed ice, and huddle over great wooden bowls whipping up spicy papaya salad. Nothing costs more than 10 euros, but like many of Berlin’s best local hangouts, Thai Park is plagued by rumors of imminent shutdown, so visit while you can.

每逢星期日,在懒洋洋的维尔默斯多夫(Wilmersdorf),规模巨大的东南亚露天食品市场“泰国公园”(Thai Park),会在枝繁叶茂的普鲁士公园(Prussian Park)内徐徐展开。泰国女人们在热铁板上煎煎炒炒,往碎冰块上浇上牛乳状的南瓜色锡兰茶,从堆放的大木碗里盛起辣木瓜沙拉。泰国公园里的任何消费都不超过10欧元,但就像柏林当地许多最好的游玩场所一样,这里也同样为各种即将关闭的传闻所扰,所以趁着还有机会赶快去吧。

11. By Field and by Sky | 2 p.m.

11. 田野旁,青空下:下午2:00

In a city known for its unorthodox use of public space, two recent repurposings still surprise. Tempelhofer Feld, the grounds of the megalithic, bullet-pocked Nazi airport where American servicemen once airlifted goods to West Berlin during the Soviet blockade, is now a park. In summer, it transforms into a Teutonic sports-scape where locals engage in activities you didn’t know existed (inline-skate-hang-gliding, anyone?). Then, for a Narnia-like experience, take an elevator to the top of a parking garage in a shopping mall in Neukölln. Follow the international cool kids, local families and graying ravers to Klunkerkranich, which sprawls across the roof like a slightly debauched summer camp, replete with bar, club, cafe, sandbox, arts space and a 360-degree view of Berlin.

在一座以对公共空间的使用不循常规而著称的城市里,最近的两项改造工程依然令人意外。藤珀尔霍夫区(Tempelhofer Feld)是一座石头砌成、弹孔遍布的纳粹机场,美国军人曾经在苏联封锁期间,从这里将货物空运到西柏林,现在这里则成了一座公园。每逢夏日,这里便会化身为日耳曼人的运动乐园,供本地人开展各类你连听都没听过的活动。(单排轮悬挂式滑翔,有人听过吗?)然后,如果想要感受一下纳尼亚传奇般的体验,可以搭乘电梯登上新克尔恩(Neukölln)一间购物中心的停车场顶层。跟着来自不同国家地区的新潮儿童、本地家庭和老年舞者们,走入Klunkerkranich,这所建筑横卧在天台上,就像一座略嫌骄奢的夏令营,里面建有酒吧、俱乐部、咖啡厅、沙坑、艺术空间,还可以观赏到柏林的360度风光。

The newest addition to the Turkish luxury hotel chain, Titanic Deluxe Berlin (49-30-2014-3700; http://www.titanic.com.tr/titanicdeluxeberlin/default-en.html) opened this March in a newly renovated landmarked 19th-century building that once housed the costumes of the Berlin State Opera. Amenities include a 1,000-sqare-meter spa with a hamam and a restaurant run by popular local Turkish restaurant Hasir. Doubles in September start at 190 euros.

土耳其豪华连锁酒店的最新成员Titanic Deluxe Berlin (49-30-2014-3700;http://www.titanic.com.tr/titanicdeluxeberlin/default-en.html)于今年3月份开业,坐落在刚刚经过装修的一栋19世纪的地标性建筑,曾经用来保存柏林国家歌剧院的服装。酒店设施包括一座1000平米的水疗中心,内有一间公共澡堂,还有一间餐厅,由当地倍受欢迎的土耳其餐厅Hasir经营。9月份的双人间价格为190欧元起。

Almodóvar Hotel, a 60-room eco boutique property that opened three years ago in the Friedrichshain district, combines smart, pared-down design with a focus on environmental sustainability that stretches from the textiles to the lighting to the organic, vegetarian breakfast spread. Double rooms in September start around 100 euros.

阿莫多瓦酒店(Almodóvar Hotel)是一间共有60间客房的生态精品酒店,已在弗里德里希斯海因区开业三年,采用智能精简设计的同时,也将焦点放在环境的可持续性上,从纺织品到照明再到有机素食早餐。9月份的双人间价格为100欧元起。

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