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男装设计的学院风

更新时间:2015-10-7 10:29:25 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

That Preppy Look? We Built That
男装设计的学院风

It’s about time New York Fashion Week began to pay better attention to its men’s wear designers. After all, since the direction for guys has been toward preppy Americana and a big hurrah for heritage for almost a decade, shouldn’t New York designers own that look by now?

纽约时装周是时候把更多的注意力放在男装设计师身上了。毕竟,近十年来男装都是走美式学院风这个路线,都在为保持传统叫好,现在纽约的设计师们是不是应该拥有他们自己的造型了?

At times this week, it seemed as if there were more people trying to get into the men’s shows than there were in the entire men’s wear industry, which is probably a good sign for the business. When people are waiting in a long line to see a show by Antonio Azzuolo, who is not exactly a household name, the men’s scene may have reached critical mass.

这个星期的某些时候,似乎想去观看男装秀的人比整个男装行业现有的从业人员都多,这对这个行业来说很可能是个好兆头。人们排着长队等着看安东尼奥·阿佐洛(Antonio Azzuolo)的服装秀,这表明一些口味刁钻的民众开始关注男装了,因为AA毕竟不是个家喻户晓的牌子。

But Mr. Azzuolo, a former design director from Ralph Lauren who started his own label four years ago, specializing in tailoring, had one of the standout collections of the season. It’s hard to stand out with straight-up suits, so he showed new versions with a street-wear twist, pairing a plaid cotton suit with sneakers, or showing faded chinos with several inches of white boxer shorts sticking out. The real surprise of a white blazer with all-over red floral embroidery was that it looked more punk in attitude than feminine.

阿佐洛先生是拉夫·劳伦的前设计总监,四年前他创建了自己的品牌,专做手工裁剪的服装。这次他的作品是这一季最棒的男装系列之一。正装西服很难设计得很出彩,所以他转而在日常服饰里寻找新意,比如棉质格子套装配帆布鞋,或褪色的低腰斜纹棉布裤,边缘露出几寸白色拳击短裤;而真正让人吃惊的是一件布满红花刺绣的白色上衣,给人的感觉不是女里女气,而且带着朋克范儿。

Another highlight of the week was the charming geekiness of the clothes at Carlos Campos. His short-sleeve shirts, lightweight peacoats and slim trousers came in saturated colors like brilliant blue and marigold, some of them also embroidered with little white stars.

本周的另一个精彩看点是卡洛斯·坎波斯(Carlos Campos)的极客风格系列服装。他的短袖衬衫、轻质的水手毛呢短大衣以及窄腿裤,均采用亮蓝或亮黄这种高饱和色彩,有些还装点着白色小星星刺绣。

The point is: a lot of mileage remains in the preppy look, in all its forms.

重点是:学院风造型的每种形式都有很大的开发空间。

There is the traditional version, the kind you find at Tommy Hilfiger, who made suits out of materials normally used on rep ties. Or the smart-alecky version by Mark McNairy, New York’s longest-running new designer, who returned to the runway with camo shorts and a seersucker suit embroidered with daisies, and models who smirked because they knew they looked so cool. Or the aspiring-to-be-sexually-objectified version of Michael Bastian, who paid tribute to Donna Summer in a sharp show with a concert T-shirt worn with a barely there swim brief.

有的比较传统,比如汤米·希尔费格(Tommy Hilfiger),他用做菱纹领带的材料来做套装。有的比较俏皮,比如马克·麦克内里(Mark McNairy),这位在纽约活跃得最久的“新”晋设计师,带着迷彩短裤和绣有雏菊的泡泡纱材质的套装重返秀台;连模特都因自己看上去太帅而忍不住偷笑。有的追求性感,比如迈克尔·巴斯蒂安(Michael Bastian);为了向唐娜·莎曼(Donna Summer)致敬,他上演了一场先锋时装秀,其中有个模特上身穿了件摇滚风T恤,下面穿了一件短得几乎看不见的三角泳裤。

The independent thinkers have their own takes, like Patrik Ervell, who showed a marine-blue bomber jacket with geeky sandals that resembled Tevas; and Alexandre Plokhov, whose monochromatic concept of all-black, all-white or all-gray outfits extended to the models’ hair and eyebrows, which were painted to match the monastic clothes.

独立思考的人都有他们自己的观点,比如派崔克·厄文(Patrik Ervell),他用海军蓝短夹克搭配类似户外运动凉鞋的极客风凉鞋;又如亚历山大·普洛克哈文(Alexandre Plokhov),为了配合他全黑、全白或全灰的如同僧侣服似的套装的单色概念,他把模特的头发和眉毛也染成了同样的颜色。

And for a completely different perspective on a vital element of Americana fashion, the Duckie Brown designers Steven Cox and Daniel Silver took on denim this season. Of course, their versions included a backless jeans jacket and wide-leg trousers with cuffs deeper than the sea.

Duckie Brown这个品牌的设计师史蒂文·考克斯(Steven Cox)和丹尼尔·希尔文(Daniel Silver)对美式服装的关键要素则有完全不同的看法,这一季他们采用了斜纹粗棉布面料。当然,他们的系列里有露背牛仔夹克和裤脚高高挽起的阔腿裤。

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