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在里维埃拉阳光下的菲茨杰拉德

更新时间:2015-9-13 9:43:10 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

On the French Riviera, Fitzgerald Found His Place in the Sun
在里维埃拉阳光下的菲茨杰拉德

Unless you happen to be on a billionaire’s yacht requiring a deepwater port or are a paparazzo stalking Leonardo DiCaprio along the Riviera, you might have no reason to find yourself near Antibes or its charming little sister village, Juan-les-Pins, on a summer evening. And that would be unfortunate, because among the legendary diversions of Cap d’Antibes is exploring the rocky playground peninsula on the French Riviera that inspired one of America’s greatest writers.

除非你碰巧人在哪位亿万富豪的游艇上,需要找一处深水港,或者是一名正沿着里维埃拉(Riviera)跟踪莱昂纳多·迪卡普里奥(Leonardo DiCaprio)的狗仔队记者,否则你恐怕没有理由在某个夏日的傍晚,出现在昂蒂布(Antibes)或它迷人的姊妹村庄瑞昂莱潘(Juan-les-Pins)附近。那可真是可惜,因为围绕着昂蒂布海角(Cap d’Antibes)展开的诸多传说中,最有名的就是对法国里维埃拉这座岩石半岛的探索,这段传说曾经为美国最伟大的作家之一带来了灵感。

It’s been almost a century since F. Scott Fitzgerald lived here, in a rented seaside house called the Villa St. Louis with his almost-mad wife, Zelda, and their towheaded daughter, Scottie. A few years after the Fitzgeralds left in 1927, the house on the sea wall in Juan-les-Pins was expanded into a hotel called the Belles-Rives, now with 40 rooms and five stars.

F·司各特·菲茨杰拉德(F. Scott Fitzgerald)在此地生活,已经是近一个世纪以前的事,那时的他,和近乎精神失常的妻子赛尔达(Zelda),还有发色淡黄的女儿司各蒂(Scottie)一起,租下了一间名为“圣路易斯别墅”(Villa St. Louis)的临海别墅。菲茨杰拉德一家于1927年搬离,几年后,这座位于瑞昂莱潘的海堤上的别墅被扩建成了一间酒店,得名“美丽河岸”(Belles-Rives),如今已是家有40间客房的五星级酒店。

Fitzgerald and the rest of his Jazz Age set have been “borne back ceaselessly into the past,” as he predicted in the most famous of his “Great Gatsby” lines, but the essential nature of Cap d’Antibes outlived them. The “diffused magic of the hot sweet South … the soft-pawed night and the ghostly wash of the Mediterranean far below” that Fitzgerald described in “Tender Is the Night” is as palpable now as then, even as the demographics of the rich set that so intrigued him are now less Anglo-American and more Russian, Chinese and Arab.

菲茨杰拉德和他另外几部爵士时代(Jazz Age)的作品一直在“不断地被浪潮推回到过去”,就像他在自己最出名的作品《了不起的盖茨比》(Great Gatsby)的台词里所预示的那样,但是昂蒂布海角的本质却从中存留了下来。他在《夜色温柔》(Tender Is the Night)一书中所描绘的“炎热、诱人的南风散发出的魔力……远处是地中海清柔的夜晚和幽幽的波涛”,在今日感受起来仍一如当年,尽管彼时令他深深着迷的多元人口构成,如今少了些盎格鲁血统的美国人,而多了些俄罗斯人、中国人和阿拉伯人。

From all the terraces of the hotel and from the restaurant perched on the low sea wall, one can still see the small blinking green lighthouse, just a hundred yards off, warning ships about the shallow rocky shore. The lighthouse, which Fitzgerald had seen on previous visits to the area, may have been the model for the green light on the dock that symbolized Jay Gatsby’s longing for the elusive Daisy, and his ephemeral goal of belonging to the moneyed set.

从这家酒店的所有阳台上,还有修建在海堤低处的餐厅里,仍可看到灯塔发出的绿光在100码开外的地方忽明忽灭,警告附近的船只这里有一片岩礁浅滩。这座灯塔,当年菲茨杰拉德来这里时也看到过,在他的小说中有一道码头上的绿光,象征着杰伊·盖茨比(Jay Gatsby)对不可捉摸的黛西(Daisy)的渴求,还有他一心要成为有钱人的短暂目标,也许就是以此为原型的。

During a recent stay in Antibes, I spent a few evenings at the Fitzgerald Bar, a jewel box of a room with a grand piano, mirrored tables, little leopard-upholstered Art Deco chairs and French doors opening onto the sea. I ordered a single “Green Therapy” cocktail of gin, cucumber and egg white (I might have been tempted to have another but they cost 20 euros apiece), and settled in to observe the swells swanning through the lobby.

最近一次在昂蒂布小住时,我有几个晚上是在菲茨杰拉德酒吧(Fitzgerald Bar)度过的,这间珠宝盒一样的房间里,摆着一台三角钢琴,装着镜子的桌子,采用装饰艺术风格的豹纹软垫靠背椅,还有朝着大海打开的法式房门。我点了一杯单份的“绿色疗法”(Green Therapy)鸡尾酒,由金酒、黄瓜汁和蛋清调成(我本来还想再叫一杯,可是一杯就要20欧元),然后找地方坐了下来,透过大堂观赏海上的潮起潮落。

The shimmery demographics of Riviera money are as varied as the schools of shiny fish flitting beneath the waves nearby. A diminutive young Russian woman in a white lace romper sprayed herself liberally with expensive perfume in the bathroom while her hulking boyfriend with his wraparound shades and security entourage waited.

居住在里维埃拉的有钱人并不太多,他们的身份背景多种多样,就如同在附近的海浪下游来游去的发光鱼群。一名体型娇小的俄罗斯女子穿着一身白色的蕾丝连身裤,在洗手间内为自己大方地喷着昂贵的香水,她那大块头的男友戴着面罩式太阳镜,和保镖一同等候在旁。

Eight British financiers talked business around a table for four hours, drinking throughout and never seeming drunk. An elegant French couple of a certain age, his yellow cashmere thrown over his shoulders in the universal sign of Euro-maleness, studied the wine list carefully. A wedding party of Africans and African-Americans tripped through, decked to the nines, some in gleaming white linen and tapestried skull caps. Everywhere, women with freshly lacquered nails and sequins and lip-liner. Finally, a family of sportif Americans, discussing whether to sell New York and keep Hawaii and Colorado, or just stay right there and figure it out later.

八名英国金融家围坐在一张桌子四周,讨论了四个小时的工作,其间一直喝个不停,却似乎永远都不会喝醉。一对举止优雅、已经有些年纪的法国夫妇,认真地研究着店内的红酒酒单,丈夫的双肩上搭着一件黄色羊毛衫,就像所有想要彰显男性魅力的欧洲男士一样。一队参加婚礼派对的非洲人和非洲裔美国人从前方穿过,个个打扮得光鲜亮丽,有的还裹着隐隐发光的白色亚麻布织花头巾。到处都是新涂了指甲、缀着亮片、画着饱满唇线的女士们。最后,还有一家穿着运动装的美国人,讨论着是否要卖掉纽约队,留下夏威夷队和科罗拉多队,还是暂且按兵不动,观望一段时间后再说。

Out on the bay bobbed the great yachts, most notably the enormous Ecstasea, built for the Russian oligarch Roman Abramovich in the early 2000s, and reportedly since sold several times, including once to the crown prince of Abu Dhabi. It has its own Wikipedia page. On land, villas once owned by literary stars like Jules Verne and W. Somerset Maugham are now inhabited by wealthy Arabs and Russians.

外侧的海湾里,停泊着几艘豪华游艇,其中最引人注目的便是那艘巨大无比的“迷人海洋号”(Ecstasea),这首游艇建造于21世纪初,为俄罗斯寡头罗曼・阿布拉莫维奇(Roman Abramovich)量身打造,据报道其后已经数次转手,其中一次甚至卖给了迪拜王储。这艘游艇还拥有自己的维基百科页面。陆地上,有数座别墅曾为儒勒·凡尔纳(Jules Verne)、威廉·萨默塞特·毛姆(W. Somerset Maugham)等文学大家所有,如今则住满了有钱的阿拉伯人和俄罗斯人。

The Cap is still democratic enough that many stretches of waterfront, usually rocky, occasionally sandy, are public. Here, among ruined walls and shallow pale emerald waters, middle-aged men and women snorkel and sunbathe topless, utterly careless about their flab. Beneath the waves, sunlight is cooled to heatless, quivering bars of gold.

昂蒂布海角依然足够大众化,许多海滨区内延伸出的码头(通常是石滩,个别是沙滩)都是公用的。在这里的城墙遗址和浅绿色的碧水浅滩之间,中年男女们戴着氧气管在海水中潜行,裸着上身晒太阳浴,毫不在意身上松弛的肥肉。波浪之下,阳光被完全除去了热度,晃动出一道道的金光。

Fitzgerald was famously obsessed with the mysteries of great wealth, what people do with it and what it does to them, big money’s glorious power and ruinous effects, and the irreconcilability of the lifestyles of the rich with those of the rest of us. It became one of his great themes. In Antibes today, visitors can still watch, speculate and wonder about the demigods behind the villa walls and on the yachts, much as did the author of “The Great Gatsby,” who supposedly concluded that the rich “are different from you and me.”

众所周知,菲茨杰拉德十分着迷于巨额财富的传说,人们会如何对待这些财富,这些财富又会为人们带来什么,巨额财富的神奇力量和毁灭性作用,还有富人与其他人在生活方式上的水火不容。这成了他的作品中最重要的主题之一。在如今的昂蒂布,游客仍可注视、揣测、疑惑于别墅墙后和游艇内的大人物们,就像《了不起的盖茨比》的作者所做的那样,他的结论应该是,有钱人“跟你我不一样”。

Fitzgerald had spent time on the Riviera before, finishing “Gatsby” there. He lived in Antibes full time for two years and would later call them the happiest of his life.

菲茨杰拉德以前也在里维埃拉住过,并在这里完成了《了不起的盖茨比》一书。他常年住在昂蒂布,前后一共住了两年,后来还说,这是他生命中最快乐的一段时光。

Happy he was, but tormented, too. He started writing “Tender Is the Night” in Antibes, modeling his characters Dick and Nicole Diver on real-life friends, the wealthy Americans Gerald and Sara Murphy, who had bought a property on the western rocky cliffs of Antibes that they named Villa America.

但快乐的同时,他也备受折磨。他在昂蒂布开始创作《夜色温柔》一书,书中的迪克·丹弗(Dick Diver)和妮可·丹弗(Nicole Diver)这两个角色,便是以他现实生活中的朋友――家境富裕的美国人夫妇杰拉尔德·墨菲(Gerald Murphy)和萨拉·墨菲(Sara Murphy)为原型。他们曾经买下了昂蒂布西部石崖上的一栋房产,并命名为“美国别墅”(Villa America)。

The Murphys’ elegant, exceedingly bohemian scene included a who’s who of literary and artistic stars from Gertrude Stein and Picasso to John Dos Passos, Dorothy Parker, Hemingway and the Fitzgeralds.

墨菲夫妇将别墅内布置得十分高雅,又极具波西米亚风,堪称一本文学艺术巨星大全,既有格特鲁德·斯泰因(Gertrude Stein)和毕加索(Picasso),也有约翰·多斯·帕索斯(John Dos Passos)、桃乐丝·帕克尔(Dorothy Parker)、海明威(Hemingway)和菲茨杰拉德。

He opened “Tender Is the Night” with a description of what is clearly today’s Hôtel du Cap-Eden-Roc, a legendary pleasure palace built in the 1870s that Fitzgerald named Gausse’s Hotel and painted rose instead of white. ”Deferential palms” still “cool its facade,” and for those who can afford rooms starting at $500 a night and rocketing into the five figures, there are white marble steps that descend to a Versailles-like allée shaded by perfectly symmetrical Mediterranean umbrella pines and vast, pristine gardens (including a dog cemetery carved out 100 years ago for a wealthy and grieving guest).

他在《夜色温柔》开头处的一段描写,显然就是如今的艾登豪克楼酒店(Hôtel du Cap-Eden-Roc),这是一间建于19世纪70年代的传奇性豪华会所,菲茨杰拉德将它改名为“戈赛旅馆”(Gausse’s Hotel),并把它从原本的白色“漆”成了玫瑰色。“挺拔的棕榈树”依然给它“带来一片阴凉”,如果你负担得起每晚500美元起跳,可以飙到五位数的客房费用,只要沿着白色大理石台阶向下,便可走到一条犹如凡尔赛宫一般的林荫道上,道路两旁种满了完美对称的地中海伞松,还有辽阔古朴的花园(包括一座100年前专为哀伤的富人们修建的爱犬公墓)。

The allée leads from the main hotel building to the beach house, with a wisteria-draped porte-cochere, grand pillared entryways and a deck cantilevered like an ocean liner above an infinity pool carved out of a white cliff. The nautical design of the beachfront restaurant mirrors that of the great yachts bobbing just offshore. Waiters in striped French boater T-shirts deliver cups of Nescafé that cost 10 euros apiece.

林荫道从酒店主楼一直延伸到海滩别墅前,那里有垂满紫藤的车辆出入专道,廊柱支撑的宽阔入口,还有一座悬空式的码头,像远洋游轮一般,悬在白色悬崖上凿出的巨大泳池上方。海滨餐厅采用的航海主题设计,与就停泊在岸边的那些豪华游艇相映成趣。穿着条纹法式海魂衫的侍者,会送上每杯售价10欧元的雀巢咖啡。

One of the charms of Antibes is that in spite of all the ostentatious, iron-gated mansions tacked to the edges of its rocky shores like glorious sea urchins, one is far more likely to encounter a regular Joe or Jacques than a millionaire on the streets of its two towns. Morning and afternoon, natives gather at the cafes, or play pétanque in the great dusty square near Le Pinede park, with its playground and strange, old round stone building charmingly signed “Bibliothèque Pour Tous.”

昂蒂布的魅力之一便是,尽管岩滩沿岸盖满了财大气粗、铁门森立的高档住宅,像一只只的华丽海胆一样,但你在这两座小镇的街道上遇到普通人的机率,还是要远远高过遇到一位百万富翁的可能。每天上午和下午,本地的居民们都会聚在咖啡馆里,或者在松林公园(Le Pinede park)附近尘土飞扬的广场上玩滚球戏,公园内还有游乐场,和一栋奇特古老的卵石建筑,上面写着一行令人愉快的字:“所有人的图书馆”。

At night, when the sea breeze isn’t blowing inland, Juan-les-Pins smells faintly like North Africa, a combination of diesel, dust, cooking oil and cloying flowers. The entertainment district has a seedy edge, with sidewalk seating at nightclubs like the Pam Pam and snack shops with all-American names — Monster Burger and Wall Street.

到了夜里,海风不再吹向内陆的方向,瑞昂莱潘的味道变得像北非一般令人晕眩,混杂着柴油、尘土、食用油和甜得发腻的花香。娱乐区的边缘地带略显破烂,街道边坐落着帕姆帕姆(Pam Pam)这样的夜总会,还有店名全然美式风格的小吃店,比如怪兽汉堡(Monster Burger)和华尔街(Wall Street)。

By day, on the other side of the peninsula from Juan-les-Pins, in Old Antibes, the medieval city center, the covered Marché Provençal offers another democratic diversion. Long rows of tables display a cornucopia of cheeses, olives, oils and bright vegetables and fruits, honeys and jams, and of course Marseille soaps. The fishing industry that existed in the 1920s and ’30s is gone, but fishermen from other regions still take their catches to the fish market just beyond the covered market.

中世纪风格的市中心,位于半岛另一端的昂蒂布老城区(Old Antibes)内。在白天,设于室内的普罗旺斯市集(Marché Provençal),为民众提供了另一处消遣场所。排成长列的小摊上展示着丰富的商品:奶酪,橄榄,食用油,浅色蔬果,蜂蜜果酱,当然也有马赛皂。20世纪二三十年代存在过的渔业如今已然消亡,但是来自其他地区的渔民仍会带着自己的捕捞成果,到这间室内市集外面的鱼市上售卖。

Aromas of bread waft from boulangeries like the Veziano, where the round-bellied proprietor Jean Paul Veziano sweats over the same bright yellow and black bread snacks that his grandfather made, using corn flour and squid ink. But this generation’s Jean-Paul is known to global chefs like Alain Ducasse, and his breads turn up in their restaurants as well as in the Cap’s finer establishments.

维齐亚诺(Veziano)这样的面包房内,不断飘出一阵阵的面包香气,挺着啤酒肚的店主让·保罗·维齐亚诺(Jean Paul Veziano)用玉米粉和墨鱼汁,费心地制作着他祖父那辈人就在制作的淡黄色和黑色的面包糕点。但是这一代的让·保罗(Jean-Paul)却为艾伦·杜卡斯(Alain Ducasse)这样的世界名厨所熟知,他的面包也出现在这些名厨们的餐厅和昂蒂布海角那些高档的地方。

Along the edges of the marché, native Antibeans drink beer at metal tables and pull goodies from their market baskets — sausage and fried zucchini flowers and socca, the Middle East-influenced flat bread of chickpea flour and olive oil. In their clear enjoyment and simplicity, this crowd is reminiscent of the peasants and fishmongers immortalized in Picasso’s drawings on display at the nearby Musée Picasso. The market is also lined with pricier bistros, proffering fine wines, foie gras and risotto or duck confit to hungry tourists.

集市四周,本土的昂蒂布镇民们在金属桌旁喝着啤酒,从菜篮子里掏出一份又一份的美味――香肠,油炸西葫芦花,还有索卡(socca),一种用鹰嘴豆粉和橄榄油制成的中东风味薄饼。当地的人民显然知足又简朴,叫人想起被定格在毕加索画稿中的农民和鱼贩,那些画在附近的毕加索博物馆有展出。市场上也挤满了价格较高的小酒馆,为饥肠辘辘的游客们供应精酿葡萄酒、鹅肝酱、意大利调味饭或油封鸭。

The Greeks settled Antibes more than 2,300 years ago, and colonized and lived here in a city they called Anti-polis, the city opposite, because it faces Nice across the bay. In 1200, a church and medieval fortifications went up, and are still intact.

希腊人于2300多年前在昂蒂布定居,殖民,生活在一座被他们叫作安蒂波里斯(Anti-polis)的城市里,这个名字意为“对面之城”,因为它与尼斯仅有一湾之隔。1200年时,这里建成了一座教堂和中世纪的防御工事,如今也依然保存完好。

The Greco-Roman history is visible in the foundation blocks of the city walls and in excavated underground ruins visible through plexiglass portholes in some of the streets. Picasso drew many scenes at Antibes of bare-breasted women dancing with fauns, and of centaurs and nymphs. He said: “Whenever I come to Antibes I’m always attacked by the itch of antiquity.”

在当地城墙的基石中,和经过开掘、可从部分街道的有机玻璃地孔中窥见的地下遗迹里,希腊罗马时代的历史清晰可见。毕加索在昂蒂布画下了许多场面,有袒露着胸部的妇女与农牧神共舞,还有半人马和仙女。他说:“无论何时来到昂蒂布,总让我对这里的古物心痒难耐。”

Modern visitors to Antibes are more likely to be attacked by an itch for luxury, and at Fitzgerald’s former villa, they find it. The current owner of the Belles-Rives, Marianne Estène--Chauvin, gave up a career as an art dealer in Casablanca to take charge of the hotel in the early aughts. It had been in her family for three generations, since her grandfather, a Russian émigré, bought the original villa in the 1930s and set about expanding it into a beachfront hotel. The Belles-Rives has since hosted celebrities including Ella Fitzgerald, Jean Cocteau and Josephine Baker (a photograph of her on the dock with a pet cheetah hangs in the bar).

在今日前往昂蒂布的游客们,有更大的可能是对这里的奢侈生活心痒难耐,而在菲茨杰拉德住过的别墅里,他们便可一偿所愿。美丽河岸酒店的现任业主玛丽安·埃斯特纳―肖万(Marianne Estène-Chauvin),放弃了在卡萨布兰卡的艺术经纪人工作,负责酒店早期的所有事务。这栋房产已经在她的家族中传承了三代,最早是她的祖父,一位俄国逃亡贵族,在20世纪30年代买下了最初的这栋别墅,并且着手将它扩建成一间海滨酒店。在那以后,美丽河岸酒店先后招待过多位名人,包括艾拉·费兹洁拉(Ella Fitzgerald)、让·谷克多(Jean Cocteau)和约瑟芬·贝克(Josephine Baker)(酒吧内挂着一张她与宠物猎豹在码头上的合影)。

Ms. Estène-Chauvin is proud of her property’s Fitzgerald connection. “He was happy here.” She has worked to cement the connection with him in part because local real estate agents have incorrectly identified a house next door on the beach, La Villa Picolette, as Fitzgerald’s former dwelling.

埃斯特纳―肖万女士对于酒店与菲茨杰拉德的关联颇为自豪。“他在这里很开心,”她一直在努力加强酒店与这位作家之间的关联性,部分程度上是因为当地的房地产代理商曾经错误地将隔壁的海滩别墅皮克莱特别墅(La Villa Picolette)指认为菲茨杰拉德的故居。

To ensure her hotel’s link to the author, Ms. Estène-Chauvin hangs black and white portraits of Fitzgerald and Zelda in the lobby, with its Art Deco elevator cage. She has posted a large framed quote from a 1926 letter he sent to Hemingway beside a potted palm: “With our being back in a nice villa on my beloved Riviera (between Nice and Cannes) I’m happier than I’ve been for years. It’s one of those strange, precious and all too transitory moments when everything in one’s life seems to be going well.”

为了确保她的酒店能与这位作家联系在一起,埃斯特纳―肖万女士在酒店大堂里挂上了菲茨杰拉德和赛尔达的黑白肖像,再加上采用了装饰艺术风格的笼式电梯。她从1926年菲茨杰拉德寄给海明威(Hemingway)的一封信中摘取了一句话,镶在巨大的画框里,挂在了一棵盆栽棕榈树旁:“在我们回到了我深爱的里维埃拉(位于尼斯和戛纳之间),住进了一间不错的别墅后,我比过去几年里都要开心。这是一个人生命中那种奇特、宝贵又太过短暂的时刻之一,似乎一切都进展顺利。”

Fitzgerald might have been happy in Juan-les-Pins, but Zelda apparently was not. She was having a breakdown and eventually had to be institutionalized in the United States. Besides being a record of Jazz Age expat American life in Antibes and elsewhere in Europe, “Tender Is the Night” is also a mercilessly observed chronicle of a marriage collapsing. Eventually, the rich wife’s madness is transferred to the once-sane husband.

菲茨杰拉德也许在瑞昂莱潘过得很是开心,可惜赛尔达却不是。她当时正面临着精神崩溃,最后只得被送到美国的收容机构。《夜色温柔》不仅记录了爵士时代的海外美国人在昂蒂布和欧洲其他地方的生活,还无情地见证了一段婚姻崩溃的全过程。最终,有钱妻子的精神失常也传到了原本神智清楚的丈夫身上。

Fitzgerald and family left Antibes after 1927, never to return, headed eventually for Hollywood and the alcoholic decline that killed him in his early 40s. He took eight years to finish the novel partly because he had to keep stopping to earn money to pay for sanitariums and psychiatrists treating Zelda.

菲茨杰拉德携家人在1927年以后离开了昂蒂布,再没有回来,他最后去了美国的好莱坞,并在40岁出头的时候死于戒酒。他用了八年时间才完成了这本小说的一部分,因为他不得不一再搁笔,去赚钱支付赛尔达住在疗养院和接受精神病医生治疗的费用。

On the 50th anniversary of Zelda’s 1948 death, Ms. Estène-Chauvin hosted a dinner at the hotel for 200 people, including Zelda’s two granddaughters, and some members of the Fitzgerald Association. The granddaughters told stories that their mother, Scottie, had shared about Zelda and Scott’s life in Antibes.

赛尔达后于1948年过世,在她逝世50周年之际,埃斯特纳―肖万女士在酒店里办了一场200人的晚餐,其中也请到了赛尔达的两名外孙女,还有菲茨杰拉德协会(Fitzgerald Association)的若干成员。两名外孙女讲述了她们的母亲司各蒂与赛尔达还有司各特在昂蒂布共度的时光。

According to them, the villa was a place where the couple fought bitterly and constantly. Zelda kept fully packed luggage in every room, threatening departure at the slightest grievance. After one fight, she walked out in the noonday sun with all her luggage and tried to hail a taxi. Then, as now, Antibes taxis were impossible to come by, and she was eventually persuaded to come home. But their life together was coming to an end.

据两人讲述,这栋别墅是她们的外祖父与外祖母一再痛苦对抗的地方。赛尔达在每个房间里都准备了打包好的行李,稍有委屈便以离家出走相挟。一次争吵过后,她带着自己所有的行李,顶着正午的太阳走出了家门,试图叫到一辆出租车。在那时,就和现在一样,昂蒂布的出租车根本不可能到这里来,她最后还是被劝回了家。但是两人共同生活的日子,却开始走向了尽头。

“They talked about how Zelda was not happy in her life here,” Ms. Estène-Chauvin recalled of the granddaughters. “And how they left and never came back.”

“她们讲述了赛尔达在这里生活时是多么的不开心,”埃斯特纳―肖万女士回忆着菲茨杰拉德这两名外孙女的事,“还有他们如何离开了这里并且再也没有回来。”

Ms. Estène-Chauvin showed old sepia prints of the property to the descendants, including one of an anonymous small blond child playing by the breakwater. The granddaughters realized that the child was their mother. “Everyone was crying,” Ms. Estène-Chauvin recalled.

埃斯特纳―肖万女士向菲茨杰拉德的后人们展示了几张这栋建筑的泛黄旧照,其中一张上有一名身份不详的金发小朋友正在防浪堤旁玩耍。两名外孙女认出这名小朋友正是她们的母亲。“所有人都在哭,”埃斯特纳―肖万女士回忆道。

Five years ago, Ms. Estène-Chauvin created the literary Prix Fitzgerald. Annually since then, a jury of French writers and critics has selected an author working in a style or addressing themes that interested Fitzgerald. Past winners include Jonathan Dee, whose novel “The Privileges” satirized a modern New York hedge fund family, and Amor Towles, whose 2011 novel “Rules of Civility” looked at Manhattan’s upper-crust in the late 1930s. In 2014, the writer-filmmaker Whit Stillman won the prize for his 1998 film and 2000 book, “The Last Days of Disco,” about a group of upper-class New Yorkers coming of age in the 1980s. This year’s Prix Fitzgerald nominees are John Niven, James Salter, Robert Goolrick, Adelle Waldman and Rachel Kushner. The winners will be announced at an event June 5.

五年前,埃斯特纳―肖万女士创办了文学大奖赛“菲茨杰拉德奖”(Prix Fitzgerald)。在那之后的每一年,都会有一批法国作家和评论家组成的评审团,从菲茨杰拉德感兴趣的类型写作或主题写作领域中,选出一名作家来。历届的菲茨杰拉德奖得主有乔纳森·迪伊(Jonathan Dee),他在小说《特权者》(The Privileges)中讽刺了当今纽约的一个对冲基金家族;还有埃默·托尔斯(Amor Towles),他在2011年出版的小说《社交礼仪守则》(Rules of Civility),带领读者一窥20世纪30年代的曼哈顿上流社会的模样。2014年,作家兼电影人惠特·斯蒂尔曼(Whit Stillman)以自己在1998年创作的电影和2000年出版的同名书籍《最后的迪斯科》(The Last Days of Disco)荣膺这一奖项,该作品讲的是一批上流社会的纽约人在20世纪80年代达到法定成人年龄时的故事。同年被提名菲茨杰拉德奖的候选者还有约翰·尼文(John Niven)、詹姆斯·索特(James Salter)、罗伯特·古尔里克(Robert Goolrick)、阿黛尔·沃德曼(Adelle Waldman)和蕾切尔·库什纳(Rachel Kushner)。获奖者会在每年6月5日的颁奖礼活动上宣布。

Ms. Estène-Chauvin will host the winner for a night in Fitzgerald’s old room. The awards ceremony, which includes a dinner and a midnight plunge, also relates to a bit of lore from the author’s Antibes days.

埃斯特纳―肖万女士会招待菲茨杰拉德奖得主在菲茨杰拉德以前的卧室中居住一晚。包含一顿晚餐和一次午夜跳水的颁奖典礼,也与菲茨杰拉德生活在昂蒂布时的少数传说有关。

The story goes that one night husband and wife had been fighting and drinking hard. Enraged by Zelda’s taunts about his professional and personal failures, Fitzgerald stormed out to a Juan-les-Pins bistro down the street that employed a full-time orchestra, and persuaded the musicians to come home with him. He herded them into his room, then slammed the door and locked them in, ordering them to play all night if they hoped to be released by dawn. He then asked Zelda if she still thought he was a loser.

据说,一天夜里,他们夫妇两人一直在激烈地争吵和酗酒。因赛尔达奚落他在事业和生活上的双重失败而暴怒的菲茨杰拉德冲出家门,跑到了瑞昂莱潘街边一家请了一支全职管弦乐队的小酒馆里,游说这些乐手们跟他一起去他家里。他将这队人浩浩荡荡地领进了自己的卧室,接着摔上了门,将他们尽数锁在屋里,命令他们想在天亮时被放出来的话,就得听他的话通宵演奏。然后他问赛尔达,现在她是否依然认为他是一个失败者。

The legend doesn’t include her response. But to commemorate the story, Ms. Estène-Chauvin sends musicians upstairs to privately serenade the winner of the Prix Fitzgerald for a few moonlit hours.

传闻中并没有提到她是如何回答的。不过为了纪念这段故事,埃斯特纳―肖万女士会在月夜时分派乐手们上楼,为菲茨杰拉德奖的得主单独演奏几个小时的小夜曲。

IF YOU GO

旅行建议

Antibes and its little sister, Juan-les-Pins, best known as ports and playgrounds for the super-rich, also happen to be great for people-watching, shopping, eating, swimming and art.

昂蒂布和它的姊妹村庄瑞昂莱潘,以面向超级富豪的港口和娱乐场所最为著称,恰好也非常适合一般游客观赏、购物、享用美食、游泳和欣赏艺术。

Pamper Yourself

宠爱自己

The Hôtel Belles-Rives offers seaside luxury, from the Art Deco lobby with its wrought-iron elevator cage and view of the sea between potted palms and marble arch, to the rooms with their French doors, sea-view balconies and pale linen bedclothes. A dusting of kitsch, in the blue-and-white boating motifs on wallpaper, carpets and napkins, adds to the charm. A meal at La Passagère, its five-star restaurant, is pricey but worth it, especially if you can snag a table on the veranda above the sea. Go for cocktails at the intimate Fitzgerald Bar. There is also a spa, and swimming access from a concrete boardwalk and dock. Rooms start at 150 euros a night, or $160 at $1.07 to the euro, and the hotel is closed for the winter between Jan. 4 and March 11, 2016. 33 Boulevard Edouard Baudoin; Antibes, 33-4-93-61-02-79; bellesrives.com.

美丽河岸酒店(Hôtel Belles-Rives)为您提供海边的奢华享受,采用装饰艺术风格的大堂配有铸铁笼式电梯,还能观赏到盆栽棕榈树与大理石拱门之间的海景,客房则配有法式房门、海景露台和浅色的亚麻床品。墙纸、地毯和餐巾纸上蓝白相间的行船主题图案中所透露出的一丝媚俗,为其平添了几分魅力。在拉派斯杰尔酒店(La Passagère)内的五星级餐厅享用一餐,价格不菲但物有所值,特别是你可以找张位于海上阳台上的餐桌。到气氛温馨的菲茨杰拉德酒吧(Fitzgerald Bar)享用一杯鸡尾酒。这里也有水疗,还可以从混凝土铺就的海边人行道和码头上下水游泳。客房每晚150欧元起,按欧元兑美元1:1.07的汇率折算约合160美元。2016年1月4日到3月11日期间,这家酒店会进入冬季歇业期。33 Boulevard Edouard Baudoin; Antibes, 33-4-93-61-02-79; bellesrives.com.

Shop, and Eat, Well

尽享购物与美食

Le Marché Provençal is a covered market in the center of the walled old city. A half-mile of tables groan under the bounty of Southern France: fruits and vegetables, honey and honey products, lavender products, wines, olives and olive oils and tapenades, cheeses, breads, linens, flowers and pottery.antibesjuanlespins­.com/en/pages­/markets.

普罗旺斯市集(Le Marché Provençal)是一间室内市集,位于这座城墙环绕的古城的中心地带。长达半英里的各类摊位在法国南部的丰沛资源之下吱嘎作响:水果蔬菜、蜂蜜和蜂蜜制品、薰衣草产品、葡萄酒、橄榄和橄榄油、橄榄酱、奶酪、面包、亚麻布、鲜花还有瓷器。antibesjuanlespins­.com/en/pages­/markets.

Nourish Body and Soul

滋养身体与灵魂

Musée Picasso, in a 14th-century Grimaldi chateau, has views of the sea and Nice in the distance. The collection includes two floors of drawings and paintings Picasso produced while staying in or near Antibes in the 1940s. The museum, below, also owns a significant collection of ceramics he produced at nearby Vallauris. Admission: 6 euros. Place Mariejol; 33-04-92-90-54-20; antibes-juanlespins.com­/les-musees­/picasso.

坐落于14世纪建筑格里马尔迪城堡(Chateau Grimaldi)的毕加索博物馆(Musée Picasso),可看到海景和远处的尼斯(Nice)。这里的藏品包括两层楼的画稿和油画,均为毕加索在20世纪40年代居住在昂蒂布或附近地区时的成果。下方的博物馆还拥有一批可观的瓷器藏品,也是毕加索在瓦洛里(Vallauris)附近制作的。门票:6欧元。Place Mariejol; 33-04-92-90-54-20; antibes-juanlespins.com­/les-musees­/picasso.

La Garoupe Beach is a tiny crescent of sand on the eastern side of the peninsula that Fitzgerald likened to a “bright tan prayer rug” when he and his friends cavorted there. No longer untamed, it is otherwise unchanged by time. Rent striped lounge chairs and buy frites at the sun-splashed foodstand or, come twilight, dine at more elegant restaurants clustered around its edges.

葛若普海滩(La Garoupe Beach)是位于半岛东侧的一处新月形的小沙滩,菲茨杰拉德和朋友在此地嬉戏时,曾将此处比作一块“亮褐色的跪毯”。这片沙滩如今不再处于未开垦的状态,但随着时间流逝,这里并没有任何改变。租借几把条纹躺椅,在洒满阳光的小吃摊买些薯条,或者到黄昏时再来,在周边几家环境更为优雅的餐馆内享用晚餐。

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