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在香港,花100美元玩出1000美元的效果

更新时间:2015-9-2 10:07:36 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

A $1,000 Day Trip in Hong Kong for $100
在香港,花100美元玩出1000美元的效果

The document in my email, set on elegant Four Seasons Hotel letterhead, was entitled “One Perfect Day in Hong Kong.” It specified a one-day, $1,000 agenda that included a Michelin-starred restaurant, a helicopter ride and a private tour of Kowloon.

我的电子邮件里躺着一份带有四季酒店精美抬头的文档,名为“香港完美一日游”。它列出了一项为期一天,耗资1000美元的旅游计划,包括在米其林星级餐厅用餐、乘坐直升机和九龙私人定制游。

The document was from the hotel’s concierge team, whom I’d contacted earlier about my plan. After I arrived, Clementine King, a member of the team, went over the specifics as I sipped an espresso by the infinity pool overlooking Victoria Harbor, casting furtive glances at those around me as I tried to figure out who, exactly, stays at a hotel with rates from $645 a night.

这个文档来自酒店的礼宾部团队,早先我曾经和他们联系,讨论我的旅游方案。入住之后,团队成员克莱门汀·金(Clementine King)和我来到能俯瞰维多利亚湾的巨大泳池旁边,边喝浓缩咖啡,边讨论细节,与此同时,我偷偷打量着身边的人,想弄清究竟什么人会住在645美元一晚的酒店里。

The trendy Sevva Bar and Lounge in the Central District requires reservations.
在香港中环正流行的Sevva酒吧餐厅就餐需要提前预订。

Probably the same sort of traveler who’d spend $1,000 in a day popping around town. (Actually, 7,600 Hong Kong dollars at the time of my visit, at a rate of 7.6 Hong Kong dollars to the U.S. dollar.) My task would be to design a day that was as similar as possible, but at one-tenth the cost. That would require planning and tips from many friends, most notably, Daisann McLane, Frugal Traveler emeritus (1998-2004), who gives private and small group tours through her company, Little Adventures in Hong Kong.

或许他们和会花费1000美元,就为了在城市里短暂逛一天的游客是同一批人吧(在我到访期间,7.6港元可兑换一美元,因此1000美元约合7600港元)。我的任务就是设计出和这个1000美元计划尽可能类似的一日行程,但是只花1/10的价钱。这需要许多朋友帮忙做计划、给出他们的小贴士,其中最重要的一个人就是黛莎恩·麦克莱恩(Daisann McLane),“穷游”版荣退专栏作者(撰稿期1998-2004),她在香港的公司“小冒险”(Little Adventures)提供私人和小团香港游。

I can’t vouch for the high-end day, but the low end was a whole lot of fun.

我不能担保高价的方案就一定好,但低价的方案的确很有意思。

Breakfast

早餐

High The Four Seasons agenda started at Lin Heung Tea House for dim sum. “Dim sum breakfast is cheap,” Ms. King said. “It’s good bang for your buck.” (Hey, that’s my line!) Her estimated cost: 150 Hong Kong dollars (about $20).

高价方案:四季酒店的计划始于莲香楼的点心。“点心早餐很便宜,”金女士说,“能帮你省钱。”(嘿,这可是我的台词!)她估计了一下,花费大约在150港元(合20美元)。

Low My breakfast was at Sing Heung Yuen, which Ms. McLane told me was one of the few old-fashioned outdoor street cafes left in the city. It’s also bucking the trend of ever fancier shops on Gough Street in Sheung Wan. Those newer businesses were still shuttered when I arrived at 8:30, as chattering families filled the cafe’s shared wooden tables. The cuisine is Hong Kong-style diner food; I had a noodle soup thick with stewed tomatoes and topped with a runny poached egg. Total bill, with iced milk tea and toast: 49 dollars (about $6).

低价方案:我的早餐是在胜香园享用的,麦克莱恩告诉我,这是市内少有的几家老式街头露天咖啡厅了,此外,它与上环歌赋街商店那种愈来愈花哨的趋势背道而驰。上午8:30我来到那里的时候,附近的新商家还没开门,胜香园的木桌边就已经坐满了全家老幼,忙着喋喋不休地聊天。菜式是典型的香港小吃;我点了浓稠的面条汤,里面有浓稠的炖西红柿和溏心水煮蛋。再加上冰奶茶和烤面包,总共花了49港元(约合6美元)。

Tour

游览方案

High Ms. King said their usual tour guide was too expensive even for our $1,000 day (well, excuse me!) and suggested booking a two-hour tour of Kowloon through the site Sam the Local, requesting stops at the Jade Market and a traditional tea shop. Cost: about 400 Hong Kong dollars.

高价方案:金女士说,酒店的导游费用甚至对于1000美元一天的行程安排也太贵了(我的天!),她建议通过Sam the Local网站预订两个小时的九龙游,要求在玉器市场和一家传统茶餐厅停留。费用:400港元。

Low I used a local, too — a local map. The one from Creative City costs about $7 online and has sharply designed walking maps of six regions of the city, with a bent toward the unusual or creative. I spent a few hours walking the Sham Shui Po and Yau Ma Tei neighborhoods, both on the Kowloon side of the harbor. In bustling Sham Shui Po, I stopped into a 200-year-old “bonesetter” shop, which, according to the map, used to specialize in treating knife wounds.

低价方案:我也采取了本土化方案——本地地图。这份从Creative City网站买回来的地图只花了我7美元,它精心设计了这个城市六个区域的步行地图,非常特别,或者说有创意。我花了几个小时在深水埗和油麻地一带游逛,这两处都在维多利亚湾的九龙一侧。在熙熙攘攘的深水埗,我走进一家拥有200年历史的“正骨”店,地图上说,这里是专门治疗刀伤的。

In Yau Ma Tei, the highlight was a hidden spot called the Hong Kong International Hobby and Toy Museum, with a collection that has everything from a Bedouin doll to a toy version of Magnum P.I.’s Ferrari. Given a choice of toy-themed 30-dollar entrance tickets, I picked the Mr. Potato Head. The woman at the register held the ticket up to my face, comparing. “Same person!” she said. (I’ll take that as a compliment.)

在油麻地,最棒的是地处偏僻的香港国际玩具博物馆,这里收藏了各种各样的玩意儿,从贝督因娃娃到玩具版的“私家侦探玛格农”(Magnum P.I.)的法拉利。门票是30港元,上面印有不同玩具主题可供选择,我选了“土豆先生”(Mr. Potato Head)。检票口的女人举起票比着在我的脸。“一模一样!”她说。我把这当做是恭维。

Lunch

午餐

High The Italian three-course lunch or the Japanese bento box at Aqua, on the 29th floor of a building overlooking the harbor. Cost: 500 Hong Kong dollars.

高价方案:在Aqua餐厅享用三道主菜的意大利餐或日本盒式料理,餐厅位于29层,可以俯瞰湾景。费用:500港元。

Low The comfortable tables on the roof garden of the IFC mall also have a view of the harbor (though not a complete one). And you can bring your picnic from any number of options in the mall. I went to City Super, a Whole Foods-ish market, and bought a gluttonous amount of toro salmon and octopus sashimi, plus Japanese beer, for 139 dollars.

低价方案:坐在IFC购物中心屋顶花园舒适的桌边同样可以看到湾景(虽然看不全)。你还可以在这座购物中心的任何地方购买外带食物。我选了整体食物超市City Super,花139港元买了一大堆金枪鱼、三文鱼和章鱼寿司,还有日本啤酒。

Shopping

购物

High Ms. King recommended the trendy Soho and Poho neighborhoods, including antiques shopping and gallery hopping on Hollywood Road and into PMQ, a former police housing complex turned beehive of local design and fashion shops, where one could purchase a hand-painted silk scarf by Chailie Ho for 1,280 Hong Kong dollars.

高价方案:金女士建议去时髦的Soho和Poho一带,那里有古董店和画廊,点缀在好莱坞路和PMQ元创方之内,后者是由前警察宿舍改建的一处本地设计与时装精品店中心,在这里,可以花1280港元买下何裕钗女士手绘的丝巾。

Low I explored the same neighborhoods, even stopping at Ms. Ho’s shop. Ms. Ho herself was there and showed me her colorful, dreamy chiffon and satin scarves. She even made a sale — not a scarf, but very frameable postcards with her Hong Kong-themed paintings, 15 dollars a piece.

低价方案:我去了她推荐的地方,甚至去了何女士的店。何女士本人正好在店里,向我展示了她那些五彩缤纷、如梦似幻的雪纺与绸缎围巾。我也真的买了东西——不过不是丝巾,而是可以装进相框的明信片,上面是她以香港为主题创作的油画,售价15港元一张。

I extended my shopping to Sai Ying Pun, where I had read about a shop called Tak Chong Sum Kee Bamboo Steamer Company that sells handmade bamboo (and wood and rattan) goods. “Old man make by hand,” a worker told me. “No young people learning!” I bought three wooden molds, one each in the shape of a fish, a turnip and, hmm, a Reese’s peanut butter cup inscribed in Chinese? They were 25 dollars each, and are now decorating my kitchen.

然后我去了西营盘,我听说那里有一家店,名叫“德昌森记蒸笼”,专卖手工竹制品(也有木头和藤条制品)。“这都是老人家亲手做的,”一个工人告诉我,“没有年轻人肯学!”我买了三个木头模具,一个是鱼形的,一个是萝卜形状的,还有一个是……瑞茜花生酱杯巧克力,上面刻的是中文?它们单价25港元,现在正装点着我的厨房。

Views

观景

High Hong Kong is not just a vertical city, it’s an archipelago with extensive green space. For a perspective from above, the Four Seasons agenda included a 15-minute helicopter ride with Heli Services for a mere 1,999 Hong Kong dollars a person.

高价方案:香港并不是一座立体发展的城市,而是点缀着广阔绿地的群岛。四季酒店的方案中包括15分钟的直升机飞行,可以俯瞰城市全景,由直升机服务公司(Heli Services)提供,每人只需1999港元。

Low I headed up to the Peak, Hong Kong Island’s famous panoramic lookout. Instead of taking the funicular train to the Sky Terrace platform, which involves long lines and a package fee of 83 dollars. I took Hong Kong’s impressive escalator system to the end and walked the rest of the way — steep, but not that grueling. Then I followed the trail that starts on Lugard Road to take in a view of the city and its natural surroundings. (I took the train back, 28 dollars.)

低价方案:我登上了太平山,这是香港岛最著名的全景观景点。乘缆车到凌霄阁摩天台需要坐很长一段,全套票价是83港元。我没有选择这条路线,而是选择了令人印象深刻的升降梯系统,并且走完了余下的路途,这段路有些陡,但并不令人紧张疲劳。接着我顺着标记为卢吉道的道路行走,观赏了这座城市和它的自然环境,之后花28港元坐缆车回来。

Dinner

晚餐

High Lung King Heen, the upscale but understated Cantonese restaurant, which has three Michelin stars, on the fourth floor of the Four Seasons. Estimated cost: 2,600 Hong Kong dollars.

高价方案:高档而质朴的粤菜餐厅龙景轩是米其林三星级餐厅,位于四季酒店四层。一餐约需2600港元。

Low For a cheaper, more classic Cantonese dinner, two of Ms. McLane’s tour guides met me at family-friendly Ser Wong Fun. We ordered three dishes, starting with a pig’s lung soup, which had an arrestingly intense broth sweetened by dried figs and dates. Stir-fried lotus root with lily bulbs and Chinese celery was fresh and tender. And I found out that sweet and sour pork is a real Cantonese dish made with hawthorn berries, far more restrained and fruity than the cloying, gloopy version I’m used to. One-third of the bill was 122 dollars.

低价方案:麦克莱恩的导游带我去了适合全家老幼的蛇王芬饭店,享受更便宜,更正宗的粤菜。我们点了三道菜,先是猪肺汤,汤汁格外浓厚,用干无花果和枣子增加甜味。接下来是清新爽口的西芹百合炒莲藕。再下来的咕咾肉是一道正宗粤菜,是用山楂做的,回味悠长,充满果香,相比之下,我以前吃过的咕咾肉都太过甜腻肥厚。我们三人分摊费用,每人122港元。

Nightcap

睡前小酌

High One drink (plus service) at “glamorous but relaxed” Sevva — “so hot, advance table reservations are necessary,” according to the hotel document — is 200 Hong Kong dollars. The day’s total: 7,129 dollars (about $938), leaving plenty for taxis.

高价方案:根据四季酒店的文档,在“又刺激又放松”的Sevva餐厅(这里“炙手可热,需要提前预约”)享用一杯饮料,需要200港元(含服务)。这样算下来,一天总共花了7129港元(约合938美元),剩下的钱还够你打车。

Low I had over 200 dollars left, even discounting the several (very cheap) subway rides I’d taken. And so my friend Conrad Lau joined me for splurgy, celebratory gin and tonics for about 120 dollars at the hip, high-ceilinged gin bar Ping Pong 129. But then it was back to frugality at the spot he had been talking up, a Filipino karaoke club, down Li Yuen Street West, a dark alley in Central. A couple of flights up the Fai Man building, we found a sign that said Jovie’s Karaoke, a loungey space full of Filipinos and Pakistanis, with free karaoke. A bucket of six San Miguel beers was 100 dollars. My treat. Total: 727.5 dollars (including subways and other minor expenses), or $96.

低价方案:刨去几次坐地铁(票价非常便宜)的费用,我手上还剩200港元呢。于是朋友康纳德·刘(Conrad Lau)就来和我一起喝一杯奢侈的杜松子酒加奎宁作为庆功,我们在高大、时髦的“乒乓129”(Ping-Pong 129)酒吧花了120港元喝酒,但是接下来又精打细算地去了一家他推荐的菲律宾卡拉OK歌厅,它位于利源西街,是中环上一条黑乎乎的巷子。来到文辉楼,我们爬了几层楼梯,就发现了“Jovie’s Karaoke”的牌子,这是个舒服的地方,有很多菲律宾人和巴基斯坦人,卡拉OK免费唱。半打生力啤酒100港元,我请客。最后总共花了727.5港元(包括地铁票和其他零碎花费),或者说,96美元。

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