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模特要红,还得靠社交媒体上有深度

更新时间:2015-8-16 11:02:10 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

Models Are Raising Their Voices, and Their Profiles, Online
模特要红,还得靠社交媒体上有深度

In late July, Behati Prinsloo lent her voice to a chorus of protests when she took to Instagram to vent her outrage at the killing of Cecil the lion by an American hunter in Zimbabwe.

七月底的时候,一名来自美国的狩猎者在赞比亚杀死了狮子塞西尔(Cecil),贝哈蒂·普林斯露(Behati Prinsloo)加入抗议的浪潮,通过Instagram表达了自己的愤怒。

Ms. Prinsloo, who is from Namibia, is no household name, but the Victoria’s Secret model was quick to mine her demi-celebrity to assert her views on the web. Joining her in shaming the hunter, Walter J. Palmer, was mega-model and actress Cara Delevingne, who branded him “a poor excuse of a human being” on Twitter.

普林斯露来自纳米比亚,并不是家喻户晓的名人,但她曾为维秘(Victoria’s Secret)担任模特,所以能够迅速利用自己准名人的身份在网上发表意见。超模与女演员卡拉·迪瓦伊(Cara Delevingne)也加入这一行列,谴责这个名叫沃尔特·J·帕尔默(Walter J. Palmer)的打猎者,在Twitter上称他是“败类”。

From left, Jourdan Dunn, Behati Prinsloo, and Cara Delevingne.
左起:卓丹·邓、贝哈蒂·普林斯露与卡拉·迪瓦伊。

They are but the latest in a troupe of increasingly media-savvy runway stars leaping onto the virtual soapbox of Instagram, Twitter or Facebook to share their politics and principles with fans. Many are making their names as self-appointed spokeswomen for any number of causes, burnishing their brands in the process and upending the perception that they are mere hangers for luxury wares. Prompt to embrace her role as a walking billboard for a cause (and exploiting the chance to burnish her image), Jourdan Dunn took a break from posting snapshots of herself strutting in the latest in club gear, to pepper her Instagram feed with pictures of herself strolling the runway in a T-shirt, its legend proclaiming, “Fashion Against Ebola.”

如今,愈来愈多熟悉社交媒体的模特们开始跳上Instagram、Twitter和Facebook搭建的虚拟临时演讲台,同粉丝分享自己的政治观点与信条,普林斯露和迪瓦伊就是最新的例子。她们当中很多人都自诩为某项事业的的代言人,在这个过程中重新塑造自身品牌,扭转人们心目中她们只是奢侈品牌的衣服架子这个形象。比如卓丹·邓(Jourdan Dunn)就迅速接受了会走路的公告牌角色,并且利用这个机会提升自己的形象——她在贴自己穿着最新俱乐部时装快照的间隙,在Instagram上贴了一些自己穿着一件写有“时尚对抗埃博拉”字样的T恤走秀的照片。

Demonstrating that an image can speak volumes, the famously gap-toothed Lindsey Wixson posted a photo of herself on the cover of the current Thai Harper’s Bazaar tagged with the title “Woman Power.”

著名的“牙缝妹”琳赛·威克森(Lindse Wixson)在社交网络上贴出了一张意味深长的照片,那是她为本期泰国版《Harper’s Bazaar》拍摄的封面,她把这张照片标记为“女性力量”。

Not to be outdone, Ms. Delevingne asserted her championing of racial equality with an Instagram image of a placard stating, “Black Lives Matter.” Her message seemed to have the desired effect, triggering an outpouring of solidarity from her 17 million followers, and as tellingly, a gush from a fan who herself declared, “This makes me like you even more.”

迪瓦伊不甘落后,她在Instagram上贴出一张招贴画,上面写着“黑人的命也是命”(Black Lives Matter),表明自己是种族平等的捍卫者。她传达的信息似乎取得了想要的效果,得到了1700万关注者的一致支持,正如一个粉丝热情地告诉她,“这一条让我更喜欢你了”。

Models’ lately found penchant for self-expression didn’t escape Karl Lagerfeld, who staged his spring/summer 2015 Chanel show in Paris last fall as a tongue-in-cheek mannequin uprising. Led by Ms. Delevingne, models took to the makeshift catwalk waving signs that demanded, “Divorce for All,” and “Match the Machos,” their faux protest signaling that activism is very much in vogue. Some runway celebrities seem to be raising their voices just because they can. “Social media have given models a platform they didn’t have before,” said Sara Ziff, the founder of the Model Alliance, a nonprofit labor group widely perceived a catalyst for this latest wave of social engagement.

模特们热衷表达自我的新爱好没有逃过卡尔·拉格斐(Karl Lagerfeld)的眼睛,去年秋天,他在巴黎举行的香奈儿2015春夏时装发布会设计为半开玩笑的模特“暴动”。在迪瓦伊率领之下,模特们走着凑合的猫步,挥舞着上书“全民离婚”(Divorce for All)和“比得上男子汉”(Match the Machos)等标语,她们的伪抗议表明,行动主义是非常流行的。有些名模开口发声,似乎只是因为她们能这么做。“社交媒体给了模特们一个前所未有的平台,”模特联盟(Model Alliance)的创始人莎拉·泽夫(Sara Ziff)说道;这是一个非盈利工会组织,很多人都认为是它促进了模特界这股最新的社交媒体浪潮。

Instagram in particular, often referred to as visual Twitter, “has given these women the means to express their opinions, and to have some control of their image, their brand and their message,” Ms. Ziff said.

尤其是Instagram——它往往被人们视为图片版Twitter——“给了这些女人表达自己观点的方式,让她们可以对自身的形象、品牌与传递的信息拥有更大的控制权,”泽夫说。

With that comes an expectation that these women act as role models and, as she pointed out, “that they have something to say other than what brand of lipstick they use.”

这样,人们有理由期待这些女人发挥表率作用,正如泽夫所说,“除了自己用什么牌子的口红,她们还能说些其他的事情”。

The savviest and most vocal, some with followings numbering in the millions, are championing causes far removed from the plight of poor Cecil and his lion kin, taking positions, albeit politely, on women’s issues, racial equality and gay rights, and, in rarer instances, declaring their support for political candidates.

她们当中最有见识、最直言不讳,拥有百万级别关注者的人所捍卫的事业与可怜的塞西尔及它的狮群们的处境相去甚远,而是就女性问题、种族平等和同性恋权利有礼有节地表达态度,偶尔也发表对政治候选人的支持。

Avery McCall, is using her rising status (she has walked for Alexander McQueen and Christopher Kane) to promote Hillary Rodham Clinton’s presidential run. “My goal is to number one, use my voice to engage a younger generation,” she told Teen Vogue in May. “I’m seeing a lot of room for sort of a blossoming social impact in the fashion world.”

艾弗里·麦考尔(Avery McCall)曾为亚历山大·麦昆(Alexander McQueen)与克里斯托弗·凯恩(Christopher Kane)走秀,她利用自己的上升势头为希拉里·罗德姆·克林顿(Hillary Rodham Clinton)的总统竞选做宣传。“我的首要目标是利用自己的声音,来吸引更年青的一代”,五月,她在接受《Teen Vogue》采访时说。“时尚界可以对社会产生丰富多样的影响,我看到这方面存在很大空间。”

Ms. McCall, 17, and others owe a debt to their predecessors: the highly vocal likes of Ms. Ziff, a former model herself, and to style-world luminaries like Christy Turlington Burns, whose advocacy for maternal health has arguably helped extend her brand and the longevity of her modeling career.

麦考尔今年17岁,和其他人一样,也受惠于泽夫女士这样高声发言的先驱者们(泽夫本人也当过模特);克莉斯蒂·杜灵顿·伯恩斯(Christy Turlington Burns)这样的时尚界名人也对她们影响很深,她为母婴的卫生保健问题大声疾呼,这可以说有助于扩展她的个人品牌,同时也延长了她的模特生涯。

These days, a certain amount of banner waving is deemed not only acceptable but downright essential, a vital way for a model to reach the people who actually buy the clothes she parades.

如今,鲜明地表达观点不仅被视为可以接受的行为,而且是必须要做的,是模特接近那些会买她们走秀时穿的衣服的人的重要方式。

“Our customers expect social commentary,” Paula Schneider, the new chief executive of American Apparel, said in an interview with Marie Claire magazine. “They expect it to be a part of their lives.”

“客户期待她们对社会现象发表评论,”AA美国服饰(American Apparel)的新任首席执行官宝拉·施耐德(Paula Schneider)在接受《Marie Claire》杂志采访时说。“人们期望成为她们生活的一部分。”

And, she might have added, to reflect the thinking of millennials who have, as Jessica Goldstein wrote on the blogThinkProgress, shifted from detachment and irony to “sincerity, authenticity, and craft beer.”

她或许可以补充说,这种现象颇能反映千禧一代的想法,他们已经从冷漠超然、冷嘲热讽变为“真诚、真实和精制”——正如杰西卡·戈德斯坦(Jessica Goldstein)在博客ThinkProgress上写的那样。

Their appetite is avid. Millennials “want to know the full story behind anybody who is a public figure in their lives,” said Rob Gregory, an executive with WhoSay, a social media sounding board for celebrities and their followers. “They want to know the social stance of the people who give them their style cues. They expect them to have a point of view on important issues. These things now come with the territory.”

他们的胃口很大。千禧一代“想知道所有公众人物生活中的完整故事”,社交媒体WhoSay的执行官罗布·格里高利(Rob Gregory)说道,这款社交媒体致力于在名人和拥趸之间充当传声筒,“他们想知道那些时尚领头人的社会观点。他们希望这些人对重大问题有自己的看法。事情理应如此。”

All of which goes toward explaining why certain influential agencies are grooming their charges to get vocal on the web. “We encourage our talents to be who they are,” said Vicky Yang, the marketing coordinator of the Society Management, which represents Kendall Jenner.

这也说明了为什么一些重要的模特经纪公司也开始注意掌控网上发言的事情。“我们鼓励旗下的模特们做自己,”社会管理(Society Management)的市场协调员维姬·杨(Vicky Yang)说,该公司的旗下模特包括肯达尔·詹娜(Kendall Jenner)。

“We ask them to look at current events and not focus all the attention on what shoes they’re going to walk in next season,” Ms. Yang said.

“我们让她们关注时事,不要一味总盯着下一季该穿什么鞋子走秀,”杨女士说。

The agency prompts models to take a stand on issues like world hunger, girls’ education, and racism. “We want these women to mold their own perspective and evolve the things they’re passionate about into a cause they want to pursue.”

这家经纪公司鼓励模特们在世界饥饿、女童教育和种族主义方面发表观点。“我们希望这些女人塑造自己的观点,把她们热衷的事情发展为愿意为之努力的事业。”

Part marketing, that strategy is meant to underscore a model’s “authenticity,” she said. Still, there are limits. “We don’t want to censor, but we do issue guidelines as needed,” Ms. Yang said. “We urge our talents to draw people in without alienating anyone, and would likely steer them away from topics that are sensitive.”

她说,这种战略也是市场营销的一部分,意在强调模特的“真诚”。不过,也还是有限制存在。“我们不想做审查,但的确要对她们进行指导,”杨女士说。“我们要求旗下的模特吸引人们关注,与此同时不要得罪其他人,我们希望她们避开那些敏感的话题。”

Fans, in short, aren’t likely to find their idols campaigning for the right to life or taking up the crusade against child labor violations in offshore factories. (Why bite the hand that feeds them?)

简而言之,粉丝们不希望看到自己的偶像为胎儿生命权大声疾呼,或是反对海外工厂非法雇佣童工。(为什么要搬起石头砸自己的脚呢?)

And yet, not to take a stand, in some views, is to court (shudder) obscurity. “In this age of hashtag activism, you’re a bit out of the loop if everyone is tweeting ‘Black Lives Matter,’ and you don’t express sympathy or solidarity,” Ms. Ziff said.

然而,在某些观点看来,不亮出立场,只会招致(可怕的)默默无闻。“在这个人人都是键盘侠的年代,如果有人发推特说‘黑人的命也是命’,而你不表示点同情和支持,似乎就显得有点不入流,”泽夫说。

“There is a sense that if you don’t have something to say, or more to offer, you’re just a pretty face,” she added.

“人们会有种感觉:如果你没有什么东西可说,没有什么观点可以提供,那么你不过就是靠脸吃饭的花瓶而已,”她补充说。

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