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王大仁与巴黎世家分手

更新时间:2015-8-4 10:06:39 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

Designer Alexander Wang to Leave Balenciaga
王大仁与巴黎世家分手

There is another major job opening in fashion. Kering, the French luxury goods conglomerate, announced on Friday that the designer Alexander Wang was leaving the helm of Balenciaga after less than three years by “joint decision.”

时尚业又出现了一个重大职位空缺。周五(7月31日),法国奢侈品集团开云(Kering)宣布,设计师王大仁(Alexander Wang)将不再执掌巴黎世家(Balenciaga),称“这一决定是双方共同做出的”。王大仁在巴黎世家供职不到三年。

Mr. Wang will concentrate on his namesake brand, based in New York, which he maintained during his time as creative director at Balenciaga. A search has begun for his successor in France.

王大仁将专注于自己在纽约的同名品牌;在担任巴黎世家的创意总监期间,他同时经营自己的品牌。集团已经开始在法国寻找他的接任者。

No specific reason was given for the split, though according to a person close to the negotiations who spoke on the condition of anonymity, Mr. Wang is about to announce a minority investment in his own brand.

声明中没有说明双方终止合作的具体原因,不过据一位了解谈判内情的匿名人士说,王大仁即将宣布有一笔少数股权投资到他自己的品牌。

Mr. Wang was named to the top design post in 2012 after Nicolas Ghesquière, who had revitalized the brand since taking over in 1997, left over creative differences with Kering’s management.

1997年,尼古拉斯·盖斯奇埃尔(Nicolas Ghesquière)接管巴黎世家,使之重获新生,2012年,因与开云集团管理层在创意方面的分歧,盖斯奇埃尔离开该品牌,之后王大仁获任该顶级设计职位。

The appointment surprised the fashion world, as Mr. Wang, then 28, was known for the hip, downtown aesthetic embodied by his own brand, as opposed to a couture sensibility.

当时这项任命震惊了时尚界,因为时年28岁的王大仁以时尚的城市审美闻名(他自己的品牌就是典型代表),而不是高级定制时装的那种感觉。

Balenciaga is considered one of Kering’s “emerging luxury brands,” along with Stella McCartney, Alexander McQueen, Christopher Kane and others. Analysts estimate that Balenciaga alone has annual revenue of 350 million euros ($387 million), which would represent less than 5 percent of Kering’s overall luxury revenue, based on results released this week.

巴黎世家被认为是开云集团的“新兴奢侈品牌”之一,其他类似的品牌包括斯特拉·麦卡特尼(Stella McCartney)、亚历山大·麦昆(Alexander McQueen)和克里斯托弗·凯恩(Christopher Kane)等。分析师们估计,巴黎世家的年收入为3.5亿欧元(约合3.87亿美元)。根据本周发布的数据,这占开云集团奢侈品总收入的不到5%。

Reports that Mr. Wang was about to leave the 96-year-old brand surfaced this week in Women’s Wear Daily.

本周(具体来说是7月29日——译注),关于王大仁即将离开这个有96年历史的品牌的报道最早出现在《女装日报》(Women’s Wear Daily)上。

In a statement on Friday, Isabelle Guichot, chief executive of Balenciaga, said: “We are all at Balenciaga extremely grateful to Alexander for his important contribution to the style and history of this iconic house. The dynamic growth of the brand over the last years bears testimony to his successful creative work.”

在周五的声明中,巴黎世家的首席执行官伊莎贝拉·吉绍(Isabelle Guichot)说,“巴黎世家的所有人都十分感激亚历山大为这个标志性的时装公司的风格和历史做出的贡献。该品牌在过去几年里的蓬勃发展是他成功的创造性工作的明证。”

According to Thomas Chauvet, an analyst covering luxury goods at Citi Investment Research, the growth at Balenciaga was slower than that of similar smaller brands, and that may have contributed to Kering’s decision to make a change.

据花旗投资研究公司(Citi Investment Research)的奢侈品分析师托马斯·肖韦(Thomas Chauvet)称,巴黎世家的增长速度慢于类似的更小的品牌,这可能是开云集团决定做出改变的原因之一。

Still, Mr. Chauvet said, “it is a shame Alexander Wang is being replaced, because it will take another 12 months to get a new creative direction and products in place.”

不过,肖韦说,“王大仁被换掉挺可惜的,因为要找到新的创意总监并推出新产品需要再花12个月的时间。”

Mr. Wang’s appointment was counter to industry wisdom about the demands of maintaining one’s own brand while overseeing another. When John Galliano was fired from Dior in 2011 over anti-Semitic remarks, he attributed his behavior to the pressure of being responsible for two brands (his own as well as Dior).

当年王大仁的任命与该行业的经验相悖——在经营自己品牌的同时监管另一个品牌是很大的挑战。2011年,约翰·加利亚诺(John Galliano)因反犹太言论被迪奥(Dior)解聘时称,自己做出那样的行为是因为同时负责两个品牌(他自己的品牌和迪奥)压力太大。

After Mr. Wang’s appointment, however, many young designers took on dual roles, including Jonathan Anderson at Loewe, Zac Posen at Brooks Brothers and Jeremy Scott at Moschino.

不过,王大仁获得任命后,很多年轻设计师都担任了双重职位,比如乔纳森·安德森(Jonathan Anderson)兼任罗意威(Loewe)的设计师,扎克·波森(Zac Posen)兼任布鲁克斯兄弟(Brooks Brothers)的设计师,杰里米·斯科特(Jeremy Scott)兼任Moschino的设计师。

Mr. Wang’s 10 collections for Balenciaga met with a generally positive reaction, though no single look or accessory proved a blockbuster. “Wang has done an O.K. job, but not the super job Kering was hoping for,” said Luca Solca, head of luxury goods research at Exane BNP Paribas.

王大仁为巴黎世家设计的十个系列总的来说获得了正面反响,但没有哪个造型或配饰曾引起轰动。“王大仁的表现还可以,但是没有开云集团期望得那么卓越,”巴黎银行(Exane BNP Paribas)的奢侈品研究主管卢卡·索尔卡(Luca Solca)说。

The end of the relationship may revive the case for having a designer who can devote creative capital to a single house.

这段合作关系结束后,寻找能把全部创作精力用于一个时装公司的设计师可能会成为新的潮流。

“Kering needs a designer that can really propel it to a higher level,” Mr. Solca said. “It should be next in line to blossom into a bigger business.”

“开云集团需要一个真正能把巴黎世家推向更高层次的设计师,”索尔卡说,“巴黎世家应该是下一个成就更大事业的时装公司。”

Mr. Wang’s last show for Balenciaga will be on Oct. 2 in Paris.

王大仁为巴黎世家设计的最后一个时装秀将于10月2日在巴黎举办。

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