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更新时间:2015-8-4 10:03:59 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

On ‘I Am Cait,’ a Wardrobe Tour Reveals Fashion’s Fixation on Caitlyn Jenner

The debut on Sunday night of Caitlyn Jenner’s new reality TV show, “I Am Cait,” was full of emotional moments, as well as Kardashians, as you might expect. But tucked away in the family revelations and inspiration was a pretty interesting moment between Kim Kardashian and Ms. Jenner, in, of all places, Ms. Jenner’s closet.

星期日,凯特琳·詹纳(Caitlyn Jenner)的最新电视真人秀《我是凯特》(I Am Cait)迎来首播,第一集中充满动人的时刻,当然也少不了卡戴珊姐妹。但是除了这一大堆家庭私事以及鼓舞人心的情节之外,有那么一段特别有意思,金·卡戴珊(Kim Kardashian)和詹纳来到詹纳的衣橱旁边。

Ms. Kardashian had demanded a tour, and Ms. Jenner had obliged, pulling out garments with glee: dresses by Tom Ford, Diane von Furstenberg, and the like. According to Ms. Jenner, designers had been sending A LOT of stuff. She was excited.

卡戴珊有要求参观詹纳的衣柜,詹纳很乐意,高高兴兴地拿出自己的衣服:诸如汤姆·福特(Tom Ford)、黛安·冯芙丝汀宝(Diane von Furstenberg)的长裙之类的。詹纳说,设计师们送给她一大堆东西,她非常兴奋。

It underscores a post last week on Ms. Jenner’s blog, in which she explained the genesis of her Versace dress at the ESPY Awards: “Donatella Versace reached out to me and said, ‘I want to do the dress.’ I said, ‘I am SO in.’ We started with designs; they made the dress in Italy. Her head dressmaker came over, and we did two fittings to make sure we got it just absolutely perfect. It was like every fantasy of my life come true.”

这不禁让人想起上星期詹纳写的一条博客,解释自己在ESPY颁奖礼上穿的那条范思哲裙子是怎么来的:“多娜泰拉·范思哲(Donatella Versace)找到我,说,‘我想做这么一条裙子。’我说,‘我太乐意了。’我们就开始了设计;他们在意大利做了这条裙子。她派裁缝过来,我们试穿了两次,确保一切完美。就像我人生里的童话成真了。”

Fashion, it seems, has a new favorite celebrity.


Caitlyn Jenner in a Versace dress at the ESPY Awards this month in Los Angeles.

On the one hand, you could interpret this as simple generosity and designers being charmed by the idea of playing fairy godmother, waving their wands and helping someone feel beautiful. And I am sure that is part of it.


Brands love being involved in a Cinderella story, after all: It is part of the essential narrative of fashion. And Ms. Jenner embodies that transformation story more powerfully than perhaps any other public figure in many years.


But it’s hard not to think that Ms. Jenner’s 2.73 million Twitter followers and 3.2 million Instagram followers (as of Monday morning) also have something to do with it. Her potential marketing power is enormous — even more so given the television show. To be associated with that, as well as the supportive and individual value system Ms. Jenner has made it her mission to promote, is invaluable on many levels.


This year, Make Up for Ever became the first brand to sign a transgender model, Andreja Pejic, to a beauty contract. I wonder how many fashion brands have already approached Ms. Jenner? After all, as my colleague Mike Hale pointed out in his review of “I Am Cait,” Ms. Jenner is “a polished, effective pitchwoman.” Will we see her in the front row of shows come September and the next ready-to-wear season? I wouldn’t be surprised.

今年,玫科菲(Make Up for Ever)与安德烈娅·皮杰斯(Andreja Pejic)签下一纸美容用品合约,成了首个签约跨性别模特的品牌。我不禁猜想,现在有多少时尚品牌已经开始接洽詹纳了?毕竟,正如我的同事迈克·希尔(Mike Hale)在他对《我是凯特》的评论中指出,詹纳是一个“精心修饰,效果颇佳的女推销员。”如果她的身影出现在9月的时装秀或者下一个成衣秀的观众席前排,我是不会感到奇怪的。

But despite the fact that the platform for getting her message across globally would be amplified by a brand ambassador contract — with all the glossy exposure that implies — and that the money involved could go to support a transgender support group, I hope she remains independent of the commercial machine.


In the long run, I think it would give her more power to be beholden to no single brand, but to be a friend to all.