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谁是纽约男装周的灵魂人物

更新时间:2015-7-21 10:10:24 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

During Men’s Fashion Week, Media Connections Play a Part
谁是纽约男装周的灵魂人物

In the clubby, cavernous Polo Bar, Ralph Lauren’s power-broker brasserie on East 55th Street, Victor Cruz of the New York Giants was chatting about patella surgery with the stylish gadabout Nick Wooster, while David Lauren engaged David Granger, the editor of Esquire.

拉夫·劳伦(Ralph Lauren)在东55街上的权势餐馆马球酒吧(Polo Bar)十分宽敞,有着俱乐部的气氛。纽约巨人队(New York Giants)的维克托·克鲁兹(Victor Cruz)在这里和时尚人士尼克·伍斯特(Nick Wooster)谈论膝盖骨手术;大卫·劳伦(David Lauren)在和《Esquire》的主编大卫·格兰杰(David Granger)聊天。

Nearby, the brother-designers Ariel and Shimon Ovadia, fresh from their 7 p.m. fashion show, were marveling about their front-row guest R. Kelly, who had requested a ticket out of the blue and promised an invitation to a concert in return. “On the stage,” Ariel said.

不远处的兄弟设计师阿里埃尔和西蒙·奥瓦迪亚(Ariel and Shimon Ovadia)刚完成自己晚上7点的时装秀。他们在感叹前排嘉宾劳·凯利(R. Kelly)。之前凯利突然向他们索要时装秀门票,并答应以邀请他们参加演唱会作为回报。“上台,”阿里埃尔说。

Dinner had all the makings of a major fashion event, to be trumpeted and press-released, but there was not a camera in sight.

这场晚宴具有大型时尚活动的所有元素,足以得到宣扬和报道,但我没看见一个相机。

This may have been a celebratory dinner for New York’s new men’s fashion week — and for Mr. Cruz, its official ambassador — but it was proving to be a low-key affair. There were no toasts, no airs and no lordly presiding. (Mr. Cruz gamely signed all autographs and posed for all selfies.)

这可能是献给新的纽约男装周及其官方大使克鲁兹的庆祝晚宴,但事实证明它很低调。没有祝酒词,没有做作的姿态,没有庄重的主持(克鲁兹不辞辛苦地完成所有的签名,摆姿势参与所有的自拍)。

New York Fashion Week: Men’s, which runs through Thursday, may have proved irresistible to a number of companies that clambered onto the bandwagon to sponsor it — a Cadillac was parked by the main hub’s entrance, and restrooms were redolent of Axe products — but if you are looking for one face to represent the enterprise, keep looking.

纽约男装周(New York Fashion Week: Men’s)持续到周四(7月16日)。对有些公司来说,它具有难以抵挡的魅力,引得他们争相赞助——中心会场入口处停着一辆卡迪拉克(Cadillac),洗手间里充满Axe产品的香味——但是你很难找到这一盛事的灵魂人物。

“There are some big personalities in the men’s business, and rightfully so,” said Steven Kolb, the chief executive of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, which organized the event. He convened a de facto advisory group of magazine editors and retailers to offer input when CFDA first began to plot out a men’s fashion week. But as for a figurehead, “no one naturally came out of the pack,” Mr. Kolb said. “I’ll be very honest. Nobody jockeyed for it.”

“男装业有一些大人物,这是当然的,”美国时装设计师协会(Council of Fashion Designers of America)的首席执行官史蒂文·科尔布(Steven Kolb)说。该协会最初筹划男装周时,他召集了一个由杂志编辑和零售商组成的顾问团,让他们出谋划策。但是至于领头人,科尔布说,“没有人自然而然地脱颖而出。我得如实以告。没人争夺这个位置。”

In this, New York Fashion Week: Men’s, as it is officially known, is markedly different from its closest analogue, London Collections: Men. London has been held up as a model and a spur to action for New York’s nascent shows. That four-day event, which precedes Milan and Paris on the calendar, has a leader in Dylan Jones, who is the chairman of London Collections: Men, as well as the editor of British GQ, one of the event’s official sponsors.

在这一方面,纽约男装周和它的近亲伦敦男装周(London Collections: Men)大不相同。人们认为,刚刚起步的纽约男装周是效仿伦敦男装周,受到了它的鼓舞。为期四天的伦敦男装周在日程上早于米兰和巴黎的男装周。它有个领袖人物——迪伦·琼斯(Dylan Jones)。他是伦敦男装周的主席,也是《GQ》英国版的主编。《GQ》是伦敦男装周的官方赞助商之一。

Mr. Jones developed and campaigned tirelessly for the London gathering, whose success burnished his own personal brand. In 2013, in time for the third iteration of the biannual event, he was awarded an Order of the British Empire for services, tellingly, to both the magazine and the fashion industry.

琼斯为伦敦男装周不知疲倦地谋划宣传,伦敦男装周的成功也助涨了他的名声。2013年,两年一度的伦敦男装周第三次举办时,他获得了大英帝国勋章(Order of the British Empire),这显然是表彰他对《GQ》和时尚界的贡献。

Nicholas Coleridge, the president of Condé Nast International, which publishes GQ, told British Vogue at the time, “Dylan has been the driving force behind London Collections: Men, and has single-handedly lured many of the most famous international designers over here.”

当时,《GQ》的出版者康泰纳仕国际集团(Condé Nast International)的总裁尼古拉斯·科尔里奇(Nicholas Coleridge)在接受《Vogue》英国版采访时说,“迪伦是伦敦男装周的推手,他凭一己之力把很多最有名的国际设计师吸引到了这里。”

Mr. Jones’s centrality to the event did not go unnoticed by the American editors.

美国的主编们并非没有注意到琼斯的中心地位。

“I feel like Dylan nominated himself, and I don’t mean that to sound like he’s taking it upon himself; somebody needed to do it in London, and he did an amazing job,” Nick Sullivan, the English-born fashion director of Esquire, said at the Polo Bar dinner. But asked whether he had considered nominating himself for a similar role, he demurred.

“我觉得迪伦是主动请缨,我的意思不是说他主动揽事。我的意思是总得有人挑起伦敦男装周的大梁,他做得很棒,”《Esquire》的时尚总监、英国出生的尼克·沙利文(Nick Sullivan)在马球酒吧的晚宴上说。但是当被问及他是否考虑过主动担任类似角色时,他予以否认。

“It didn’t occur to me for a minute that it should be me,” Mr. Sullivan said.

“我从来没想过自己能担此大任,”沙利文说。

In the United States, despite early rumors of deep involvement from editors, including Mr. Jones’s American counterpart, Jim Nelson of GQ, and GQ’s creative director, Jim Moore, no single figure has emerged.

在美国,尽管早有人传言,有些编辑介入得很深,比如《GQ》美国版的主编吉姆·纳尔逊(Jim Nelson)和创意总监吉姆·摩尔(Jim Moore),但是没有一个人脱颖而出。

That is not to say the magazines have not been involved. Mr. Nelson, taking in the parkour presentation by Rag & Bone on Tuesday night, said the magazine had sponsored a blogger lounge and invited stylish types to take over its social media accounts. Mr. Nelson proclaimed himself very much in support of the event.

那并不是说杂志没有参与。周二晚上(7月14日),纳尔逊在观看Rag & Bone的跑酷展示会时说,《GQ》赞助了一个博主休息室,还邀请时尚人士掌管《GQ》的社交媒体账户。纳尔逊称自己非常支持纽约男装周。

“If it’s good for men’s fashion,” he said, “it’s good for GQ.”

“如果它有利于男装,”他说,“那它就有利于《GQ》。”

The other men’s publications have, in their own ways, supported New York Fashion Week: Men’s, as well. Details magazine is pumping out video content on its website and teaming up with Fashion GPS, a company that handles invitations and schedules, to supply street-style photography. Esquire is devoting its August style section to American men’s fashion, some of it modeled by Mr. Cruz.

其他男装杂志也以自己的方式支持纽约男装周。《Details》杂志在自己的网站上推出视频内容,与处理邀请事务和日程的Fashion GPS公司携手提供街拍。《Esquire》的8月刊风尚版专门报道美国男装,其中一些造型由克鲁兹担任模特。

Many brands have sensed a marketing opportunity, one that radiated out beyond the gated environs of men’s fashion week. Industry recognition is one thing; sales outside of it is entirely another.

很多品牌都注意到了这个市场推广的机会,它可以辐射到男装周会场之外的地方。行业知名度是一回事,行业外的销售完全是另外一回事。

“My focus is to introduce Bacardi to the fashion consumers,” said Akiko Maeda, the spirits company’s newly appointed vice president for fashion. For her first major undertaking in the role, she teamed New York Fashion Week: Men’s designers (including the Ovadias) with mixologists using Bacardi products to create custom cocktails for their events. But just as important, she commissioned content to be shared socially, so even those without a hard-to-get invitation could bask in the refracted fashion glow. The key group, she said, is “the people who are sitting outside the fashion world.”

“我的重点是把百加得(Bacardi)介绍给时尚客户,”百加得烈酒公司的新任时尚副总裁前田明子(Akiko Maeda)说。她上任后的第一个主要工作是把纽约男装周的设计师们(包括奥瓦迪亚兄弟)和调酒师们联合起来,用百加得的产品为发布会创造定制鸡尾酒。不过,同样重要的是,她让人把鸡尾酒的配方在社交媒体上分享,这样连那些没有获得稀有的发布会邀请函的人也能品尝到时尚界的一丝滋味。她说,“那些时尚界之外的人”才是关键。

Similarly, designers are looking outward.

同样的,设计师们也在关注时尚界之外的人。

“We made a decision a couple seasons ago not to do a runway and started to focus on creating content that ultimately the consumer is going to be more interested in,” said Rag & Bone’s David Neville, explaining why he and his partner, Marcus Wainwright, opted to include a digital video in their presentation. “We live in a digital world. When we’re thinking about these things, we want to think about them holistically, in terms of what the end use is and how it represents us in our men’s wear proposition.”

“几个时装季之前,我们做出决定,不再举办时装秀,把重心放在创作消费者最终更感兴趣的内容上,”Rag & Bone的设计师大卫·内维尔(David Neville)说。他是在解释为什么他和搭档马库斯·温赖特(Marcus Wainwright)选择在发布会上包含一个数字视频。“我们活在一个数字世界里。我们想到这些事情时,我们想从整体上加以考虑,也就是说,终端使用状态是怎样的,它如何展示我们的男装。”

The last video the brand made for its men’s collection, starring Mikhail Baryshnikov and the jook dancer Lil Buck, has racked up more than 1.1 million views on YouTube.

该品牌的上一个男装系列视频由米哈伊尔·巴雷什尼科夫(Mikhail Baryshnikov)和jook舞者利尔·巴克(Lil Buck)代言,在YouTube上累计获得110万次点击量。

“Fashion is one of those things where the demographic is much wider than just someone who likes hip-hop, someone who likes indie pop, someone who likes R&B,” said the musician George Lewis Jr. (better known as Twin Shadow), who not only scored Public School’s show for the second season running, but appeared in it, too. After performing at the last show, he said he was blown away by the attention he received.

“时尚的受众面比音乐宽很多,不像有人喜欢嘻哈音乐,有人喜欢独立流行乐,有人喜欢节奏布鲁斯,”音乐人小乔治·刘易斯(George Lewis Jr.,他更为人知的名字是Twin Shadow)说。他不仅为公立学校(Public School)的第二季时装秀配乐,而且还出现在它的秀台上。在最后一场时装秀表演结束后,他说,他为自己获得的关注感到震惊。

“I think fashion is everywhere,” Mr. Lewis said. “Music, we don’t quite have a social media application that makes you listen to bits and bits of music. I guess with fashion, people are more ready to like this and want to talk about it. I want to own that. I find that at least for a younger generation, fashion is a constant.”

“我觉得时尚无处不在,”刘易斯说,“而音乐实际上没有一个社交媒体应用程序,能让你一点一点听。我觉得,人们更容易爱上时尚,更想谈论它。我想拥有那种感觉。我发现,至少对年轻一代来说,时尚是永恒的。”

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