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惠特尼博物馆无名餐厅:艺术与美食的交汇

更新时间:2015-7-14 8:38:43 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

Art for Food’s Sake at the Whitney Museum’s Untitled
惠特尼博物馆无名餐厅:艺术与美食的交汇

Despite some evidence to the contrary — the Modern, say, at the Museum of Modern Art — the words “museum restaurant” have not inspired culinary ecstasy so much as images of footsore diners and tuna salad sandwiches in plastic wrap. While art and eating are both intensely sensual experiences, even in New York they only occasionally coincide. Untitled, the glassy restaurant from Danny Meyer (who not coincidentally also runs the Modern) in the recently opened Whitney Museum of American Art in Manhattan’s meatpacking district, is trying to establish a counter trend with an elegantly simple menu and stylish, sleek décor. Last Wednesday, three weeks after the restaurant opened, the line to get in was not quite as long as the line for the museum, but the dining room was nonetheless packed with a lunchtime crowd that included three members of a family whose interest in a good meal actually preceded their interest in the art.

尽管有些相反的证据——例如现代艺术博物馆(Museum of Modern Art)里的现代餐厅(the Modern)——但是“博物馆餐厅”这个概念不会让人想到令人狂喜的美味,而是更多地让人想到走得脚疼的食客和用塑料膜包裹的金枪鱼沙拉三明治。虽然艺术和饮食都是十分感性的体验,但即使是在纽约,它们也只是偶尔交汇。丹尼·梅耶(Danny Meyer,现代餐厅[the Modern]也是他经营的,这不是巧合)在曼哈顿肉库区新开的惠特尼美国艺术博物馆(Whitney Museum of American Art)开了个透明的餐厅,名叫无名(Untitled)。这家餐厅想要塑造一股相反的潮流:这里的菜单优雅简洁,装修时髦光鲜。上周三(5月20日——译注),餐厅开业三周之后,等待就餐的队伍没有等待参观博物馆的那么长,但是餐厅里挤满了午餐顾客,包括一家三口人,他们对美餐一顿的兴趣实际上多于对艺术的兴趣。

IN THE SEATS Rina Spence, 66, a global health care adviser; Gary Countryman, the 75-year-old former chief executive of the Liberty Mutual insurance company, who described his current job as “her husband”; and her daughter, Ann Spence, the 39-year-old proprietor of SheBee.com, a custom jewelry company,

就餐者:66岁的里娜·斯彭斯(Rina Spence)是全球保健顾问;75岁的加里·康特里曼(Gary Countryman)是利宝互助保险公司(Liberty Mutual)的前首席执行官,他说自己目前的工作是担任“她的丈夫”;斯彭斯的女儿、39岁的安妮·斯彭斯(Ann Spence)是定制珠宝公司SheBee.com的所有者。

ON THE PLATES For Ann Spence, lobster toast ($12) and stradette pasta, a dish of noodles made with cornmeal and dressed with broccoli rabe pesto and fresh cheese ($23). Her mother, a vegetarian, ordered the Caesar salad with baby lettuce and green tomatoes ($11) with two sides: carrots with chili and peanuts ($9) and cauliflower with curry and crushed black sesame ($12). As for Mr. Countryman, he also had a Caesar salad, followed by fluke with radish, sorrel and lime ($15) and an order of potato chips and dip ($6).

食物:安妮·斯彭斯点的是烤龙虾(12美元)以及用西洋菜苔(broccoli rabe)松子青酱和鲜奶酪调味的玉米粉意大利面(23美元)。她妈妈是个素食者,点的是带有嫩叶生菜和绿番茄的凯撒沙拉(11美元),配菜是辣椒花生胡萝卜(9美元)和用咖喱和黑芝麻末调味的花椰菜(12美元)。康特里曼也点了凯撒沙拉,随机搭配小萝卜、酸模和酸橙(15美元)以及薯条和蘸酱(6美元)。

WHY THEY CAME Primarily because of Rina Spence’s vegetarian leanings. She made a reservation weeks ago, she said, having heard that Untitled was unusually solicitous of non-meat-eaters, and only after the table was secured did she and Mr. Countryman buy a museum membership.

他们为什么来:主要是因为里娜·斯彭斯的素食偏好。她说,她听说无名餐厅非常关心不吃肉的人,所以她提前几周做了预订。在确定得到座位后,她和康特里曼才缴费成为该博物馆的会员。

Naturally, they toured the new museum’s exhibition before their meal. Rina Spence said the art was “fabulous.” And Mr. Countryman described it as “amazing.”

当然,用餐前,他们观看了新博物馆的展览。里娜·斯彭斯说,这里的艺术品“棒极了”。康特里曼说展览“好极了”。

Told that she would have to use a different synonym, Ann Spence said, “All of my skepticism about their move downtown has been removed.” (The Whitney used to be on the Upper East Side.) She also said she felt a little sorry for fund-raisers at New York City’s other top museums because, as she put it, “You can just feel the money pouring in here.”

我对安妮·斯彭斯说,她得换个不一样的同义词。她说,“本来我怀疑这家博物馆搬到市中心不是个好主意,现在我完全打消了这种想法”(惠特尼博物馆本来在上东区)。她还说,她为纽约市其他顶级博物馆的募捐者们感到有点遗憾,就像她说的,“你能感觉到钱都涌到了这里”。

WHAT THEY TALKED ABOUT First, the family. Ann Spence has three children, the oldest of whom, a boy, is 11 and on the cusp of adolescence. Though Mr. Countryman genially suggested that their conversation mainly concerned “how perfect the family is,” Ann Spence a bit more realistically reported that she was in the process of “buckling her seatbelt” in anticipation of her son’s teenage years. Then it was on to lighter matters, chief among them Ms. Spence and Mr. Countryman’s trip to the Monaco Grand Prix this weekend. The couple spend half the year at a home they own in Cap Ferrat in the South of France and usually attend the Grand Prix by motoring up the Côte d’Azur in their boat. This year, however, they planned to watch the race up close on the ground. And was the rest of the family going, too? Unfortunately, no. “They’ll get the T-shirts,” Mr. Countryman said.

他们谈论什么:首先是家人。安妮·斯彭斯有三个孩子,最大的是个男孩,今年11岁,刚进入青春期。虽然康特里曼温和地表示,他们的谈话主要是关于“这个家庭多么完美”,但是安妮·斯彭斯说了点实情,说她正“系好安全带”,准备应对儿子的青春期。然后,他们谈了一些更轻松的话题,主要是斯彭斯和康特里曼这个周末(5月23日至5月24日——译注)去观看摩纳哥大奖赛(Monaco Grand Prix)的旅行。这对夫妻每年有一半时间在法国南部费拉角(Cap Ferrat)他们的家里度过,通常是坐着自己的船沿着蓝色海岸(Côte d’Azur)观看大奖赛。不过,今年,他们打算在陆地上近距离观看比赛。家里其他人也去吗?他们没那么幸运。“他们会得到纪念T恤,”康特里曼说。

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