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唐娜·卡兰不再执掌同名时装品牌

更新时间:2015-7-3 9:46:55 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

Donna Karan Steps Down as Head of Iconic Brand
唐娜·卡兰不再执掌同名时装品牌

In a major shift for American fashion, Donna Karan, the 66-year-old founder and chief designer of Donna Karan International, a brand that defined the way American working women dressed for decades, announced on Tuesday that she was leaving the helm of the house that bears her name.

周二,唐娜·卡兰国际公司(Donna Karan International)的创始人兼首席设计师、66岁的唐娜·卡兰宣布,她将不再执掌这个以自己的名字命名的时装公司。这是美国时尚界的一个重大变化。几十年来,该品牌定义着美国职业女性的着装方式。

Ms. Karan will remain as an adviser to Donna Karan International, but devote more time to her Urban Zen line, which centers on wellness and artisanal goods, and its foundation.

卡兰仍将担任唐娜·卡兰国际公司的顾问,但会将更多时间用于自己的城市禅宗(Urban Zen)系列及其基金会。该系列注重身心健康和手工艺品。

LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, the French conglomerate that bought the house in 2001, said there were no immediate plans to replace her as a designer, and the main Donna Karan collection would be suspended. It will not hold a show at New York Fashion Week in September.

2001年,法国路威酩轩集团(LVMH)买下了唐娜·卡兰国际公司。集团称,近期尚无计划寻找接替设计师,主要的唐娜·卡兰系列将暂停。9月份,该品牌将不在纽约时装周上举办时装秀。

Instead, according to an announcement, the company will reorganize its teams and structure to “substantially increase its focus on the DKNY brand,” the company’s more accessible line, which is currently responsible for 80 percent of Donna Karan International revenue. It will also maintain its license business.

公司声明称,它将重组团队和机构,“极大提高对DKNY品牌的关注”。DKNY是公司较为低端的系列,目前公司80%的利润来自这个系列。唐娜·卡兰公司还将保留自己的特许业务。

“It’s a big corporate move and strategy statement,” said Robert Burke, founder of a namesake luxury consultancy and former fashion director of Bergdorf Goodman.

“这是一项重大的公司举措和战略声明,”奢侈品咨询公司罗伯特·伯克(Robert Burke)的创始人罗伯特·伯克说。他曾担任波道夫·古德曼百货公司(Bergdorf Goodman)的时装总监。

Ms. Karan said in a statement, “LVMH and I have made this decision after much soul-searching. I have arrived at a point in my life where I need to spend more time to pursue my Urban Zen commitment to its fullest potential and follow my vision of philanthropy and commerce.”

卡兰在声明中说,“路威酩轩集团和我经过深思熟虑才做出这个决定。到了人生的这个阶段,我需要用更多时间充分发挥城市禅宗的潜力,追求我的慈善和商业目标。”

Interestingly, Ken Sunshine and the communications firm Sunshine Sachs were handling press requests for Ms. Karan on Tuesday.

有趣的是,周二代表卡兰处理媒体事务的是肯·桑夏恩(Ken Sunshine)以及他的公关公司桑夏恩·萨克斯(Sunshine Sachs)。

Although Mr. Sunshine represents a number of top-drawer entertainment clients, including Ms. Karan’s close friend Barbra Streisand, he is largely known for his work in crisis management and his aggressive representation of people in acrimonious situations.

桑夏恩曾代理过几位娱乐名人,包括卡兰的密友芭芭拉·史翠珊(Barbra Streisand),不过他的名声主要在于危机处理,以及以强硬姿态代表那些处于不利状况的人。

Over the past year, there have been signs that the relationship between Ms. Karan and LVMH had deteriorated.

在过去的一年里,有迹象表明,卡兰和路威酩轩集团的关系在恶化。

Last summer, Ms. Karan shuttered the three-story, 11,000-square-foot space on Madison Avenue that for more than a decade had operated as her signature line’s flagship store. This winter, the Neapolitan men’s wear brand Isaia took over the lease.

去年夏天,卡兰关闭了麦迪逊大道(Madison Avenue)上占地1.1万平方英尺的三层空间。十多年来,那里是她标志性服装系列的旗舰店所在地。今年年初,那不勒斯男装品牌Isaia租下了那幢楼。

In March, Ms. Karan gave an interview to WWD in which she seemed to acknowledge that all was not well with LVMH.

今年3月,卡兰在接受《女装日报》(WWD)采访时,似乎承认与路威酩轩集团的关系不是太好。

“I’m married to my company,” Ms. Karan said. “I’ll be married to my company whether I’m there or not there. I love the company, it’s my baby. Am I still going to design there? I assume so.”

“我嫁给了我的公司,”卡兰说,“不管我在不在那里,我都是公司的人。我爱我的公司,它是我的孩子。我还会去那里做设计吗?我想会的。”

The decision also reflects a reality of the New York fashion world, which has seen an explosion in the contemporary market in recent years thanks to brands such as Tory Burch, Alexander Wang and Rag & Bone.

这个决定也反映出纽约时尚界的一个现实。近些年,由于Tory Burch、亚历山大·王(Alexander Wang)和Rag & Bone等品牌,当代市场快速激增。

In April, LVMH acknowledged the importance of the sector by naming the hot young designers Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow of the haute streetwear brand Public School the creative directors of DKNY, to much fanfare.

4月份,路威酩轩集团高调任命高级街头服饰品牌公立学校(Public School)的热门年轻设计师马克斯韦尔·奥斯本(Maxwell Osborne)和周道一担任DKNY的创意总监,承认了当代市场的重要性。

At the time, Pierre-Yves Roussel, chairman of the LVMH Fashion Group, said that LVMH “knows for a fact that most people who buy DKNY did not even know it was by Donna Karan.”

当时,路威酩轩时装集团( LVMH Fashion Group)的主席皮埃尔-伊夫·鲁塞尔(Pierre-Yves Roussel)说,路威酩轩集团知道,“大部分购买DKNY的人甚至不知道它是唐娜·卡兰设计的”。

The retirement of Ms. Karan’s long-term right hand, Patti Cohen, in May led to speculation that Ms. Karan might also soon step down. At a presentation later that month, Ms. Karan told a reporter, “Never say never.”

今年5月,卡兰的长期得力助手帕蒂·科恩(Patti Cohen)退休,人们猜测,克兰可能很快也会辞职。在当月晚些时候的一个展示会上,卡兰告诉记者,“永远不要说永不。”

In an email, Ms. Streisand said that she was not worried about her friend.

史翠珊在接受电子邮件采访时说,她不担心自己的朋友。

“Donna is so great at everything she does... designs, friendships, compassionate causes... I’m sure her next steps will amaze us,” she said.

“唐娜什么都做得很好……设计、友谊、慈善事业……我确信,她接下来的行动会让我们惊叹,”她说。

Still, Ms. Streisand added, “I surely will miss her clothes.”

不过,史翠珊补充说,“我肯定会怀念她设计的服装。”

To a generation of women, Ms. Karan, who started her company in 1984 with “seven easy pieces,” a mix-and-match wardrobe, was a personal heroine: a role model who understood their needs and solved their problems.

1984年,卡兰开设自己的公司,推出“简易七件”混搭衣橱。对一代女性来说,她是个人英雄:一个能够理解她们的需求、解决她们问题的楷模。

“Donna created a way of dressing that was womanly, practical and empowering, and came from a deeply personal, instinctual place; she has always let her empathetic heart rule her design head,” said Anna Wintour, the artistic director of Condé Nast and editor of Vogue magazine.

“唐娜创作了一种着装方式,它有女人味、实用、有气势,它源自个人和本能。她拥有一颗擅长移情的心灵,她总是让这颗心支配她的设计头脑,” 康泰纳仕公司艺术总监、《Vogue》杂志美国版主编安娜·温图尔(Anna Wintour)说。

Along with Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren, Ms. Karan created one of the first truly global brands at New York Fashion Week, an achievement that brought her to the attention of LVMH, which paid $243 million to acquire the brand.

卡兰和卡尔文·克莱恩(Calvin Klein)、拉夫·劳伦(Ralph Lauren)一起在纽约时装周上创造了第一批真正的国际品牌。她的成就引起了路威酩轩集团的注意,并花费2.43亿美元收购了她的品牌。

It also earned her a Lifetime Achievement Award from the Council of Fashion Designers of America in 2004. She has also received the women’s wear designer of the year award and the men’s wear designer of the year award.

2004年,她获得美国时装设计师协会(Council of Fashion Designers of America)的终身成就奖。她还获得了当年的女装最佳设计师奖和男装最佳设计师奖。

“She came to the fore at a time when it was mainly men designing for women, and she knew and understood her customers like no one else,” Mr. Burke said.

“她崭露头角之时,女性服装大多出自男设计师之手,她比其他任何人都更加了解和理解她的客户,”伯克说。
In the company’s statement, Caroline Brown, chief executive of Donna Karan International, said of Ms. Karan, “I speak for the many teams at DKI in supporting her great legacy and reinforcing our commitment to it for our next chapter.”

在唐娜·卡兰国际公司的声明中,首席执行官卡罗琳·布朗(Caroline Brown)提到卡兰时说,“我代表唐娜·卡兰国际公司的很多团队支持她的伟大遗赠,在未来恪守对它的承诺。”

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