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在公园坡,寻找芝麻街式的精致生活

更新时间:2015-3-9 8:45:01 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

Park Slope, Brooklyn, a Neighborhood to Grow Into
在公园坡,寻找芝麻街式的精致生活

Kate and Kabir Singh have come a long way since moving to Park Slope, Brooklyn, from Greenwich Village a decade ago, hopscotching from home to home to home, but despite their nomadic tendencies they’ve traveled a grand total of five and a half blocks in that time.

凯特(Kate)和卡比尔·辛格(Kabir Singh)夫妇,十年前从格林威治村(Greenwich Village)搬到布鲁克林区的公园坡(Park Slope)之后,便跳房子似的把住处换了一处又一处。尽管他们是有点游牧倾向,但那段时间里,他们足足走遍了五条半街区。

Introduced to the leafy, house-proud neighborhood when Ms. Singh began teaching at a local school, the couple were enticed into putting down roots by the proximity of Prospect Park, the strong reputation of Public School 321 and the alluring rows of well-maintained period brownstones. And as with so many Manhattan transplants, their attachment to the neighborhood has grown along with their family.

当凯特·辛格开始在当地的一所学校教书时,她逐渐了解了这个绿树成荫、房舍精美的社区。这里靠近展望公园(Prospect Park),有大名鼎鼎的321号公立学校,还有成排精心维护过的迷人老褐石屋。于是,他们被吸引到这里扎了根。和许多从曼哈顿迁过来的人们一样,他们对这个社区的依恋随着他们家庭的成长与日俱增。

“Once people cross the pond to Park Slope, they’re here forever,” said Jackie Lew, an associate broker with Halstead Property, who has raised her own children there. “Their lifestyle changes and they don’t want to live anywhere else.”

“人们一旦跨过那座池塘来到公园坡,就再也不想走了,”霍尔斯泰德地产公司(Halstead Property)的一位合伙经纪人杰基·卢(Jackie Lew)说,她自己也已在这个社区内生儿育女。“他们的生活方式改变了,不想再去其他任何地方。”

Nesting was on their minds when Ms. Singh and her husband, who works in finance, moved into their first apartment in the area, a two-bedroom co-op in a walk-up on First Street. Two years and one daughter later, they traded up to a $1.85 million three-bedroom duplex in a limestone co-op across the street, which they bought from friends who were also moving within the neighborhood. Finally, in 2011, after the birth of two sons, they bought a $2 million limestone house on Union Street near Grand Army Plaza.

当辛格太太与她从事金融业的丈夫搬进他们在这个社区里的第一套公寓时,就考虑在这个地方安家了。那是在第一街(First Street)一栋无电梯大楼内的一套两居室合作公寓。两年后,大女儿出生,他们便从这套公寓,升级到了街对面一栋石灰岩合作公寓楼内的一套售价185万美元(约合人民币1157万元)的三居室复式公寓里,那是他们从朋友那儿买来的,而朋友也并没搬离这个社区。最后,2011年两个儿子出生后,他们买下了大军广场(Grand Army Plaza)附近一栋位于联合街(Union Street)上的200万美元(约合人民币1251万元)石灰岩别墅。

By then, Ms. Singh said, the family’s lives had become happily entwined with Park Slope.

辛格太太说,那时候,全家人的生活都与公园坡密不可分了。

“It’s got a real small-town feel,” she said. “On my walk to school with the kids, I know so many people from all different parts of my life: people I know as a teacher, small vendors, real estate people and the parents of my children’s friends.” But if, as some residents say, Park Slope has a “Sesame Street” atmosphere, the area’s rents have risen high enough to push out many mom-and-pop shop owners of Mr. Hooper’s ilk. Seventh Avenue abounds with banks and with real estate offices that have windows full of pricey listings reflecting the neighborhood back on itself. On Union Street, the Tea Lounge, a popular bourgeois-bohemian hangout, recently shuttered.

“这里有一种真正的小镇感觉,”她说。“在和孩子们走去学校的路上,许多我认识的人都来自我生活中的各个领域:有的是老师,有的是小商贩,有的是房产经纪人,还有我孩子朋友的父母。”但如果公园坡真像某些居民所说的那样,有一种“芝麻街”(Sesame Street)的氛围,那么这里的租金早就高得足以把许多类似胡珀先生(Mr. Hooper)这种夫妻店的店主赶走了。而第七大道上遍布的银行,以及橱窗贴满高价楼盘信息的房地产商铺,折射出这处社区的本来面貌。在联合街,一家具有布尔乔亚-波西米亚风情、十分受欢迎的Tea Lounge茶室,最近刚刚关门歇业。

Nevertheless, even as parts of Park Slope are increasingly buffed to a high polish, the area still offers a variety of experience. After living much of the last six decades in the North Slope townhouse her seamstress mother had bought in 1949, Lorraine Leong, a health care administrator, decamped to the southwestern fringe of the neighborhood in 2012, paying $693,000 for a two-bedroom condominium on 12th Street and Fourth Avenue, a thoroughfare where blocky residential buildings have sprung up since a 2003 rezoning. Her son, a “foodie” who lives upstairs, keeps her informed, she said, about “all the great restaurants opening up” on Fifth Avenue and Flatbush Avenue.

尽管公园坡有些地方越来越体面光鲜,这里依然能够提供丰富多彩的生活体验。过去六十年来,身为卫生保健系统行政人员的洛林·梁(Lorraine Leong),大部分时间都住在北坡(North Slope)的一栋联排别墅里,那是她做裁缝的母亲在1949年购置的。2012年,她搬离了祖屋,来到社区的西南边缘,花69.3万美元(约合人民币433万人民币)买下一套两居室的共管公寓,地点位于12街(12th Street)与第四大道(Fourth Avenue)的交汇处。第四大道是一条主干道,自从2003年重新分区后,那里就陆续涌现出了许多四四方方的住宅楼。她说自己的儿子是一位足不出户的“美食家”,并且总是让她消息灵通,对第五大道(Fifth Avenue)与弗拉特布什大道(Flatbush Avenue)上“所有即将开业的豪华餐厅”了如指掌。

“Fourth and Fifth Avenues have that diverse mix that Brooklyn always had, and it’s very appealing to me,” said Ms. Leong, who is of Chinese descent. “There are Italians and Latinos still around, and a guy on my corner sells tacos from a little stand for a dollar. You don’t want to lose that.”

“第四与第五大道有布鲁克林区昔日那种多元化的混合风格,所以这里非常吸引我,”身为华裔的梁女士说,“周围还有些意大利人和拉丁美洲人,住在转角处的一个小伙子在小摊上卖油炸玉米饼,一美元一个。你肯定舍不得离开那样的地方。”

What You’ll Find

当地房源

A principal draw of Park Slope has always been the rolling meadows and sinuous paths of Prospect Park, a masterpiece designed by Calvert Vaux and Frederick Law Olmsted. The neighborhood, home to about 60,000, stretches west from the park to the rumbling river of traffic known as Fourth Avenue, and south from Flatbush Avenue. There is no unanimity on the southern boundary. Many longtime residents define it as 15th Street; others say the vicinity of the Prospect Expressway.

公园坡最大的吸引力,一直都来自展望公园连绵的草坪与蜿蜒的小路。这座公园是卡尔弗特·沃克斯(Calvert Vaux)和弗雷德里克·劳·奥姆斯特德(Frederick Law Olmsted)设计的杰作。这座拥有六万名居民的社区,从展望公园向西一直延伸至一条车水马龙的交通要道,也就是众所周知的第四大道,并从弗拉特布什大道向南延伸。但其南部边界并没有统一的说法。许多老居民都确认这条边界位于15街;而另一些人则认为在展望高速路的附近。

Spurred in part by the opening of the Brooklyn Bridge in 1883, a Gold Coast of ornate townhouses and mansions arose around Plaza Street and Prospect Park West. Some of these were later replaced by fine prewar apartment houses, but others survive. On Prospect Park West, a Romanesque Revival limestone mansion houses the Poly Prep Lower School; next door, a neo-Jacobean mansion built for a Bon Ami cleansing powder magnate is now home to the Brooklyn Society for Ethical Culture. At 105 Eighth Avenue, the neoclassical Tracy Mansion, which served for years as a Montessori school, is on the market for $13 million.

布鲁克林大桥(Brooklyn Bridge)1883年建成后,起到了一部分带动作用,使一片精致的联排别墅与豪宅的黄金海岸,在广场街(Plaza Street)与展望公园西(Prospect Park West)周边兴起。后来,这些房产当中有部分被漂亮的战前公寓楼取而代之,但其他一些则保留了下来。在展望公园西,一座罗马复兴式石灰岩豪宅变成了波利预科初级学校(Poly Prep Lower School)的所在地;旁边是一栋为某位宝纳米(Bon Ami)清洁粉大亨建造的新詹姆士一世风格(neo-Jacobean)豪宅,该房产现在是布鲁克林区伦理文化社团(Brooklyn Society for Ethical Culture)的总部。而第八大道(Eighth Avenue)105号这栋新古典主义的特雷西豪宅(Tracy Mansion),多年来一直是一家蒙特梭利学校(Montessori school)的校舍,目前在市场上正以1300万美元(约合人民币8131万元)的价格待售。

With a few exceptions, houses generally become less grand as one heads south from about Third Street or west down the hill from the park. In the South Slope, the blocks south of Ninth Street, frame houses are common, and residents tend to be a notch or two less affluent, census data show.

在这个社区里,大概从第3街(Third Street)起往南走,从公园向西直到山下,屋宇就变得不那么气派了,只有几栋是例外。而在南坡(South Slope),第9街(Ninth Street)南边的几条街区上随处可见简易的木板屋。调查数据显示,这里的居民在收入上一般会略低一到两个等级。

What You’ll Pay

当地房价

Big money is pouring in. A seven-bedroom limestone-and-brick townhouse at 45 Montgomery Place recently sold for $10,775,000, a neighborhood record, while median single-family townhouse prices rose 26 percent over all last year to $2,755,000, according to sales data provided by the Corcoran Group. Tight inventory means houses typically sell within 30 days, at or above asking price, said Jessica Buchman, an associate broker at Corcoran. “A quarter of our deals are all cash,” she added. “The wealth is staggering.”

大笔资金正在涌入。蒙哥马利广场(Montgomery Place)45号那栋七居室的石灰岩及砖砌联排别墅,近期以1077.5万美元(约合人民币6739万元)的价格售出,创造了该社区的纪录。而据柯克伦集团(Corcoran Group)提供的销售数据,这里中等面积、独门独院的联排别墅,在去年售价整体上涨了26%,中值达到275.5万美元(约合人民币1723万元)。柯克伦集团的一名合伙经纪人杰西卡·布赫曼(Jessica Buchman)说,房市库存吃紧意味着,房屋一般会在30天内卖出,售价等于或高于要价。“我们的交易有四分之一都是现金全款交易的,”她补充说。“那些有钱人真令人吃惊。”

One-bedroom co-ops fetched an average price of $776 per square foot, up 8 percent from 2013, the Corcoran data showed, while the average for one-bedroom condos was $883, up 15 percent. Two-bedroom co-ops sold for an average of $930 per square foot, up 16 percent; two-bedroom condos were $961, up 15 percent. A mid-January search on StreetEasy.com found 16 houses and 52 apartments for sale.

柯克伦集团的数据还显示,这里的一居室合作公寓,平均售价为每平方英尺776美元(约合每平方米人民币52415.2元),比2013年上涨了8%;而一居室的共管公寓单位均价为883美元(约合每平方米人民币59643元),同比上涨了15%;两居室的合作公寓均价为每平方英尺930美元(约合每平方米人民币62817元),上涨16%;两居室的共管公寓均价为961美元(约合每平方米人民币64911元),上涨15%。一月中旬,在StreetEasy.com上搜索到16栋房屋与52套公寓待售。

Development continues apace on Fourth Avenue. At 278 Sixth, a 12-story rental building that opened in October, 45 of 63 units have been leased, said Joe Cruz, the project’s exclusive broker. Available one-bedrooms are listed at $3,000 per month, a typical price for a new building; two-bedrooms are $3,900, in the middle of the range for a new building.

第四大道仍在快速发展。在十月刚刚开盘的一栋12层租赁大楼278 Sixth中,该项目的独家代理人乔·克鲁兹(Joe Cruz)透露,63个单元已租出去45个。这里待租的一居室公寓租金为每月3000美元(约合人民币18763元),是新公寓楼普遍的租金水平;而两居室的公寓为每月3900美元(约合人民币24391元),处于新建筑租金区间的中档位置。

What to Do

休闲设施

Every spring, hundreds of diminutive baseball players parade with Norman Rockwell wholesomeness down Seventh Avenue en route to Prospect Park, where they play games organized by the Prospect Park Baseball Association. Also in the park, the two-rink skating complex of the LeFrak Center at Lakeside, which opened last winter after a $74 million restoration, is thronged with ice skaters in cold months and roller skaters in warm.

每年春天,上百名小个子棒球手会与诺曼·洛克威尔(Norman Rockwell)一起,朝气蓬勃地向前行进,经过第七大道(Seventh Avenue),走到展望公园,在那里参加由展望公园棒球协会(Prospect Park Baseball Association)组织的比赛。不仅如此,该公园在湖畔的勒弗拉克中心(LeFrak Center)还有一处带两片冰场的溜冰馆,经过一项造价7400万美元(约合人民币4.6亿元)的重修工程后,已于去年冬天开业,每逢寒冷的月份,这里都会有许多来溜冰的游客;而在温暖的季节,也有许多人来滑旱冰。

Seventh Avenue in the South Slope, with favorites like Talde, and Fifth Avenue, with the can’t-get-in-the-door mainstay Al di Là, both have active restaurant scenes. For organic-food lovers unexcited about working the shifts required of members of the Park Slope Food Co-op, the arrival of Whole Foods on Third Avenue and Third Street in neighboring Gowanus has been a boon. Farmers’ markets in Grand Army Plaza and by the renovated Washington Park thrive as well.

南坡的第七大道上有Talde这样的人气餐厅,而第五大道则有门都挤不进去的Al di Là,两家餐厅里都有着活跃的氛围。对于那些没兴趣成为公园坡食品合作社(Park Slope Food Co-op)成员的有机食品爱好者而言,在第三大道(Third Avenue)与郭瓦纳斯(Gowanus)附近的第3街(Third Street)上,新开业的Whole Foods商店是一个福音。大军广场和正在翻修的华盛顿公园(Washington Park)附近,有几处农贸市场也很兴旺。

The Schools

当地学校

Public School 321, a well-regarded elementary school on Seventh Avenue, is a major attraction. Last year, 78 percent of students met state standards on the state English test, and 80 percent on the math test, versus 30 and 39 percent citywide. The Berkeley Carroll School, a private institution for prekindergarten through 12th grade, has its lower school on Carroll Street and middle and high schools on Lincoln Place.

第七大道上的一所很有声望的小学——321号公立学校(Public School 321),是这里的主要吸引力。去年,这所学校有78%的学生在该州的英语测试中达到州标准,有80%的学生在数学测试中达标;相比之下,全市的达标率为30%与39%。另有一所覆盖了学前班到12年级教育的私立学校——伯克利卡罗尔中学(Berkeley Carroll School),在卡罗尔街(Carroll Street)上设有小学部,并在林肯广场街(Lincoln Place)设有初、高中部。

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