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纽约东村的变与不变

更新时间:2015-3-4 10:29:51 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

The East Village Clings to a Colorful Past
纽约东村的变与不变

Over the decades, living in the East Village has been about finding cheap housing. But there was much more to the equation. Historically a first stop for new immigrants, the neighborhood became associated with the counterculture, art and the punk movement in the 1970s, and living there served as a sort of rite of passage for people of a certain age and inclination.

数十年来,居住在东村(East Village) 就意味着寻找便宜的住处。但是,这个等式里还包含着更多内容。由于东村历来就是新移民落脚的第一站,所以,该社区与20世纪70年代的反主流文化、艺术及朋克运动之间就产生了关联。因此,对于某些处于特定年龄段、或有某种爱好的人来说,住在东村便可算是一种必经的成长历程了。

Much of that history has disappeared as home prices and retail rents have escalated, but for some residents it is not completely gone.

随着住宅房价与零售店面租金的持续攀升,东村的旧时面貌也大部分消失了;可是对一些居民们而言,它们并未完全逝去。

“I think the neighborhood still has that heart and soul — at least what it hadn’t already lost by the late ’90s,” said Peter Feld, an editor and writer born in Manhattan who spent years visiting the East Village before moving there in 1999. “It’s still a mix of great, but mostly affordable, restaurants, nice and divey bars, longtime residents, drunken N.Y.U. kids and older drunks, boutiques that don’t open till noon or later, creative types and the beloved crusties,” he added, alluding to the young visitors with bedrolls and dirty clothes who have traditionally arrived in warm weather.

“我觉得这片社区依然拥有那样的心脏和灵魂——至少有些东西,到90年代末仍未丧失殆尽,”一位生于曼哈顿的编辑兼作家彼得·菲尔德(Peter Feld)说,在1999年搬入东村之前,他曾花了数年时间走访那里,“东村仍然云集了最棒的、但大多又很实惠的餐厅,不错的当地酒吧,久居在此的居民,醉酒的纽大(N.Y.U.)学生和上了年纪的老酒鬼,一些不到或不过中午就不开门的精品店,还有一些充满创意的家伙和可爱的硬壳族们,”他补充道,指的是那些带着铺盖卷、穿着脏衣服的年轻访客们,他们总是在气候温暖的时候来到这里。

The neighborhood, with about 72,000 residents, is typically seen as bounded by 14th Street and East Houston Street, the Bowery/Fourth Avenue and the East River. Almost 40 percent of the neighborhood is between the ages of 20 and 34, according to census data.

通常认为,这处大约住着72000名居民的社区,边界是14街(14th Street)、东休斯顿街(East Houston Street)、鲍厄里/第四大道(Bowery/Fourth Avenue)及东河(East River)。根据人口普查数据,该社区内几乎有40%的人口处于20至34岁的年龄段。

A low-slung neighborhood with a lot of 19th- and early 20th-century buildings, the East Village was rezoned in 2008 in an attempt to keep new development contextual, and two new historic districts protecting three swathes of buildings were added in 2012; the original St. Mark’s Historic District was designated in 1969.

东村是一个遍布低层建筑的社区,有大量19世纪和20世纪早期的楼房。2008年,这里被重新分区,旨在使新的开发项目承前启后。2012年,这里又增加了两个新的历史街区,以保护三处狭长地带中的建筑物;而之前的圣马克斯历史街区(St. Mark’s Historic District)设立于1969年。

While the designations seem to have curbed most new development, conversions of older buildings into upscale housing are driving up housing prices, said Susan Stetzer, the district manager of Community Board 3, who lives in the East Village. Small mom-and-pop shops are closing, unable to afford retail rents, with those spaces being taken over by chain retailers.

一方面,这些历史街区的划定看似杜绝了大部分新开发项目;另一方面,一些将旧楼升级为高端住宅的改造项目,还是推高了房价,Community Board 3公司的区域经理苏珊·斯戴泽(Susan Stetzer)说。她目前就住在东村。一些小型夫妻店无法再负担店铺租金,即将陆续歇业;而接手店面的则是一些连锁零售商。

Instead of local bars and restaurants, she said, “now, we have destination nightclubs and destination celebrity chef restaurants. So what’s happening is they’re bringing people in to party, basically, and we’re losing both food and bar and other retail that used to serve the community.”

这里再也没有当地人开的小酒吧与小餐馆了,她说,“如今,我们有许多观光式夜总会和观光式名厨餐厅。所以现在的情况是,基本上,这些场所吸引了很多前来参加派对的人,而我们则失去了那些曾经专门为当地社区服务的食品店、酒吧和其他零售店。”

Julian LaVerdiere, an artist who was a resident until recently, said, “I feel like Yorkville got transplanted to the East Village,” referring to another East Side neighborhood known as a postgraduate playground. Mr. LaVerdiere bought a one-bedroom apartment on 12th Street in 2007 for $900,000 and recently sold it for $1.2 million — a tidy profit he took to buy a house in Brooklyn.

艺术家朱利安·拉弗迪尔(Julian LaVerdiere)前不久还是这里的一位居民,他说,“我感觉就像把约克维尔(Yorkville)移植到了东村一样,”他指的是东区的另一处社区,那里众所周知是大学研究生们的游乐场所。2007年,拉弗迪尔以90万美元(约合人民币559万元)的价格,在12街(12th Street)购置了一套一居室公寓,近期又以120万美元(约合人民币746万元)的价格转售了出去——这是一笔可观的利润,他用来买了一栋布鲁克林的房子。

Still, the neighborhood has a genuine vibe that is not easy to find elsewhere, said Sky Dylan-Robbins, a native New Yorker and video journalist who has lived in the East Village for three years.

不过,该社区仍然有一种在其他地方很难找到的真实感,一位土生土长的纽约人斯凯·狄伦-罗宾斯(Sky Dylan-Robbins)说,他是一名电视新闻记者,曾经在东村住了三年。

“Despite the glossiness that’s seeped into every grungy-but-lovely cranny of the neighborhood — and of New York, in general — the smaller streets, not the avenues, of the East Village do feel reminiscent of an authentic New York City that once was,” she said.

“尽管到处都很气派,小到该社区,大到整个纽约市——每个颓败却又可爱的缝隙,都是那么熠熠生辉;但相比于那些林荫大道,东村这些更狭窄的街道却能让人想起真正的纽约,想起这座城市曾经的样子。”她说。

What You’ll Find

当地房源

East Village housing consists mostly of early- to mid-20th-century walk-up and elevator buildings of four and five stories, said Douglas Wagner, a broker and East Village specialist with Bond New York. There are also townhouses and single-family homes, many converted to multifamilies, as well as loft buildings, said Jeremy V. Stein, an agent with Sotheby’s International Realty, who often works in the area.

一名深耕东村房源的纽约邦德公司(Bond New York)经纪人道格拉斯·瓦格纳(Douglas Wagner)说,东村的住宅,主要是20世纪早期至中期建造的四到五层楼房,有些带电梯,有些不带。另一位常在该区域工作的苏富比国际地产公司(Sotheby’s International Realty)的经纪人杰里米·V·斯坦(Jeremy V. Stein)说,这里还有一些联排别墅和一户式的独栋房屋,其中许多已被改建为多户共住式的住宅。此外还有跃层房屋。

There has been quite a bit of new development. In fact, the Jefferson at 211 East 13th Street, a condo with about 80 units and the target of some East Villagers’ ire as a symbol of gentrification, was second in Manhattan for the largest number of closed sales through Nov. 30 with 78, said Gabby Warshawer, the director of research for CityRealty, a real estate listings and research service.

这里还有相当多的新开发项目。事实上,东13街211号那栋拥有80套共管公寓的杰弗逊(Jefferson)大厦,到(2014年)11月30日已售出78个单元,在全曼哈顿公寓销量最大的楼盘当中名列第二,据一家房地产代理与研究服务公司“城市地产”(CityRealty)的研究部主任加比·沃沙维尔(Gabby Warshawer)说。这座大厦也被一些东村人视为士绅化的象征,而成了他们的眼中钉。

What You’ll Pay

当地房价

Though home prices are no longer cheap, the East Village still offers a slim advantage in terms of value over other Manhattan neighborhoods, Ms. Warshawer said. The average price per square foot of a condo in Manhattan this year through Nov. 30 is $1,643; in the East Village, it is $1,562, which is about 16.5 percent higher than 2013. There are only about 33 condos on the market, Ms. Warshawer said.

虽然房价已不再便宜,但东村房地产的价值比起曼哈顿的其他社区而言,仍有少许优势,沃沙维尔说。到11月30日,曼哈顿一套共管公寓每平方英尺的均价是1643美元(约合每平方米人民币11万元);而在东村,这样的公寓均价为1562美元(约合每平方米人民币10.5万元),比2013年上浮了16.5%。目前,东村的房产市场上只有33套共管公寓在售,沃沙维尔说。

Mr. Wagner said he does not notice much difference between average condo prices in the East Village and those in Chelsea or the West Village. Studios typically run around $485,000; one-bedrooms about $900,000; and two-bedrooms about $1.5 million, with outliers in both directions. Co-ops typically cost about 20 percent less than condos, he said.

而据瓦格纳的说法,他并没有发现东村共管公寓的均价与切尔西区或西村有什么差别。这里的单间公寓通常售价为48万美元(约合人民币298万元);一居室公寓约为90万美元(约合人民币559万元);两居室公寓约150万美元(约合人民币932万元)。但价格高低两端也都有例外情况。合作公寓的价格通常比共管公寓低20%,他说。

There are many rentals in the East Village, with 340 open listings in early December, Mr. Wagner said. At the low end, studios run from around $1,850 to $2,300 a month; in some new developments, they go for well above $3,000. One-bedrooms typically range from about $2,300 into the low $4,000s a month, he said. Two-bedrooms start at around $3,500 a month but more commonly cost more than $4,500. Most three-bedrooms go for $4,850 to $5,300 a month, but can cost as much as $10,000 a month, Mr. Wagner said.

东村还有许多租赁式公寓,12月上旬市场中有340套待租房源,瓦格纳说。在低端市场,单间公寓的月租约为1850美元(约合人民币11499元)至2300美元(约合人民币14296元);而在一些新开发的楼盘中,租金达到了3000美元以上(约合人民币18647元)。一居室公寓每月的租金从大约2300美元(约合人民币14296元)至4000多美元(约合人民币24862元)不等,他说。两居室公寓租金的起价大约在每月3500美元(约合人民币21754元),但通常会超过4500美元(约合人民币27970元)。大多数三居室公寓每月租金为4850美元(约合人民币30145元)至5300美元(约合人民币32942元),但也有可能高达每月1万美元(约合人民币62155元),瓦格纳说。

The Commute

通勤方式

There are many subway stops on the neighborhood’s perimeter. The 4, 5 and 6 trains stop at Union Square, as do the N, R and Q trains. (The 6 train also stops at Astor Place, and the 4 does at night.) The Union Square station offers access to the L train, which runs along 14th Street and into Brooklyn, with stops in the neighborhood at First and Third Avenues. The F train stops at Second Avenue and East Houston. Buses serving the area include the 14A, 14D, 8 and 9.

该社区的周边有许多地铁站。4、5、6号线的列车都在联合广场(Union Square)停靠,N、R、Q线地铁也一样(其中6号线在亚斯特坊广场[Astor Place]也有站点,而4号线夜间会在此停靠)。从联合广场站还可搭乘L线列车,经过14街进入布鲁克林。另外,联合广场站在该社区的第一大道与第三大道上都有站点。F线会在第二大道和东休斯顿街(East Houston)停靠。此外,服务于该区域的公交车包括14A、14D、8路与9路。

What to Do

当地休闲

Grieving over lost shops and restaurants is a pastime in the East Village, with the number of holdouts from a former era thinning. The building that housed the club CBGB, billed as “the birthplace of punk,” now has a John Varvatos shop, and the 110-year-old Italian bakery De Robertis Pasticceria and Caffe closed earlier this month. Newer restaurants include the popular Estela, with European-influenced American cuisine, and the Italian restaurant San Marzano. Curry Row, around Sixth Street, offers Indian food, while Japanese cuisine can be found on Ninth Street between Second and Third Avenues and 10th Street between First and Second Avenues.

在东村,人们不再为那些已消失的商店与餐厅伤感,虽然仍有一些老卖家在坚守阵地,但数量已越来越少。曾是CBGB俱乐部所在地的那栋建筑,被宣称为“朋克运动的发源地”,现如今,这里进驻了一家约翰·瓦维托斯(John Varvatos)男装店;而那家有着110年历史的意大利烘焙店De Robertis Pasticceria and Caffe,也刚刚于本月(12月——译注)上旬关了门。在本地新开张的餐厅里,既有供应欧化美式菜肴的人气餐厅Estela,又有意大利餐厅San Marzano。在第六大街附近,Curry Row餐厅提供印度美食;而想吃日本菜,可以在第二大道与第三大道间的第九街,以及第一大道与第二大道间的第十街上找到。

The East Village is home to several small theaters, and while galleries are no longer prevalent, the exhibition space at P.S. 122 Gallery is popular. The 10.5-acre Tompkins Square Park has two playgrounds, a dog run, handball, chess and basketball. St. Marks Place is a quirky, lively strip where head shops coexist with Federal mansions.

东村还是几家小剧院的所在地;至于画廊,虽然很多都不太景气了,但P.S. 122画廊里的展览空间仍然很受欢迎。那座占地面积10.5英亩(约合4.2公顷)的汤普金斯广场公园(Tompkins Square Park)里有两片游乐场、一处遛狗场,还有玩手球、国际象棋和篮球的地方。圣马克思广场(St. Marks Place)是一片狭长地带,光怪陆离而又生机勃勃,在这里,销售迷幻制品的商店与联邦政府大厦和谐共存。

The Schools

当地学校

Schools are not the first thing that come to mind in association with the East Village, and the area seems to have a lack of affordable child-care programs and family-friendly restaurants these days, Ms. Stetzer said. Schools include Public School 15 Roberto Clemente; Tompkins Square Middle School; and East Side Community High School. Public School 15 received a C on its latest progress report, and at East Side this year, SAT averages were 424 in reading, 426 in math and 422 in writing, versus 441, 463 and 436 citywide.

提起东村,人们首先联想到的肯定不会是学校。近年来,这个地区似乎比较缺少经济实惠的儿童看护机构,也没什么适宜全家人聚餐的餐厅,斯戴泽说。东村的学校包括罗伯托·克莱门特公立15中(Public School 15 Roberto Clemente)、汤普金斯广场中学(Tompkins Square Middle School)以及东区社区高中(East Side Community High School)。公立15中在上次的教育考评中得了一个C;而整个东区今年的SAT均分是,阅读424、数学426、写作422,相比之下全市的均分为411、463和436。

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