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36小时玩转法国斯特拉斯堡

更新时间:2015-2-28 10:23:30 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

36 Hours in Strasbourg, France
36小时玩转法国斯特拉斯堡

Have you been naughty or nice? A self-proclaimed “Christmas Capital” — thanks to one of the oldest and largest Christmas markets in Europe — Strasbourg welcomes the virtuous and vice-loving alike to its December citywide extravaganza of gift bazaars, concerts, lights and mulled wine. But the city is hardly a holiday novelty. Nestled along France’s border with Germany, Strasbourg has been fawned over and fought over for centuries by the two nations, ping-ponging back and forth before returning to France at the end of World War II. The result is a fetching Franco-Teutonic core of cobbled traffic-free lanes, canals, half-timbered houses and spires where you can fill both your belly (with copious rustic Alsatian dishes) and your brain (with impressive art museums). Toss in the seat of the European Parliament, a lively bar scene and some winningly repurposed historical buildings — now elegant hotels and gastronomic havens — and you have an international city with year-round appeal.

最近你表现怎样?淘气了没有?因拥有欧洲最古老、规模最大的圣诞市场之一而自称“圣诞之都”(Christmas Capital)的斯特拉斯堡向各方游客张开臂膀,欢迎大家探访12月遍及全城的礼品集市、音乐演出、圣诞灯光和香浓美酒,不管你是好孩子还是坏孩子。但除了新奇假期以后,这个城市还有很多好玩的东西。斯特拉斯堡坐落在德法边境,历史上德法两国为它的归属发生过多次争斗,四个回合以后,斯特拉斯堡在“二战”结束前归入法国。这段历史的直接后果,就是今日兼具法兰西和日耳曼特色的迷人城市风情。这里既有铺满卵石、只适合步行的小巷,也有纵横交织的运河,还有半木结构的房屋和各种尖顶建筑——在那些建筑中,你可以用分量十足的阿尔萨斯美食充实自己的肠胃,也可以用令人惊艳的艺术博物馆充实你的大脑。作为欧洲议会所在地,斯特拉斯堡拥有活力四射的酒吧文化,还有许多改建为优雅旅馆和高端饭店的历史建筑,这个国际都市一年四季都有别样的魅力。

Poached pear dessert at Brasserie Les Haras.
马厩酒馆的甜点水烹梨。

Friday

星期五

1. Scenic History | 4 p.m.

1、观景怀古游 | 下午4点

Over the centuries here in Strasbourg, Gutenberg invented the printing press, a local military officer wrote the French national anthem and the young Goethe wrote and wrote. These and other tidbits form the narrative of “Strasbourg, Over Twenty Centuries of History,” a scenic Batorama boat tour that circles Strasbourg’s Grand Île, a Unesco World Heritage site, and proceeds upriver to institutions of the European Commission. Passing grassy banks, you’ll ogle architectural masterworks like the Romanesque Église St. Paul, the flamboyant neo-Gothic Lycée des Pontonniers and the silvery postmodern European Court of Human Rights, animated by multilanguage commentary. Adults 12.50 euros, or $15 at $1.20 to the euro.

在斯特拉斯堡数百年的历史中,古腾堡发明了印刷术,一位当地军官创作了法国国歌,年轻的歌德在这里专注写作。诸如此类的历史点滴形成了文化游船之旅“斯特拉斯堡,20个世纪之历史”的解说词。这个旅行路线会围着斯特拉斯堡知名景观——联合国教科文组织认可的世界文化遗产大岛(Grand Île)前行,接着逆流而上到达欧盟委员会。沿着绿草如茵的河岸,你会看到很多建筑学的杰作,比如罗马风格的圣乔治教堂(Église St. Paul)、夸张新哥特风格的庞特尼尔高中(Lycée des Pontonniers)、银色后现代风格的欧洲人权法院(European Court of Human Rights)。游览中,多国语言的解说词让旅行更加有趣。成年人12.50欧元,按照欧元兑美元1.20的汇率合15美元。

2. Canals and Towers | 5:30 p.m.

2、运河与尖塔 | 下午5:30

Strolling past gingerbread-style mansions in the Petite France neighborhood, you half expect to glimpse Hansel and Gretel scurrying across the cobblestones. A web of lanes, canals, narrow bridges, ivy-draped walls and wrought-iron streetlamps, the storybook atmosphere invites meandering. Place du Quartier Blanc leads to medieval stone towers and Barrage Vauban, a 17th-century defensive fortification resembling a covered stone bridge. In leafy Place Benjamin Zix, La Corde à Linge cafe offers lovely views of the canals and classic half-timbered houses. A Café Alsacien (7.50 euros) — spiked with Gewürztraminer eau-de-vie — warms body and spirit.

在“小法兰西”(Petite France)社区走过姜饼屋风格的房屋,你会自觉身处格林童话《亨舍尔与格雷琴》(Hansel and Gretel)的场景中,暗中期待亨舍尔与格雷琴在卵石小道匆匆跑过。细密繁复的街巷、运河和窄桥,爬满常青藤的墙壁,铸铁材质的街灯,营造出故事书一般的氛围,令人流连忘返。从白四方广场(Place du Quartier Blanc)出发,可到达中世纪的石头尖塔和沃邦大坝(Barrage Vauban)。沃邦大坝是座17世纪的防御工事,看起来像一座覆有顶棚的石桥。在绿叶婆娑的本杰明奇克斯广场(Place Benjamin Zix),晾衣绳(La Corde à Linge)咖啡馆能够看美妙的运河风光,还有经典的半木结构房屋。一份阿尔萨斯式套餐(7.50欧元)加上一杯Gewürztraminer白兰地,会瞬间温暖你的身体和心灵。

3. A Galloping Success | 8 p.m.

3、马到成功 | 晚上8点

Food lovers and jockeys alike will appreciate Brasserie Les Haras, an 18th-century horse stable that was renovated and reopened in 2013 by a dream team of designers and restaurateurs. The dramatic two-level space was decorated in autumnal colors by the Jouin Manku firm — known for designing restaurants for Alain Ducasse — while the menu was overseen by the chef Marc Haeberlin, whose Auberge de L’Ill restaurant to the south has three Michelin stars. Appetizers include warm smoked eel and foie gras with fruit chutney, while main dishes offer a Mediterranean-Mideast touch, such as the succulent, smoky-sweet shank of lamb with cinnamon, cumin and other souk spices. A three-course dinner for two runs about 90 euros, without wine.

吃货和骑马爱好者都会喜欢马厩酒馆(Brasserie Les Haras)。这家小店设在18世纪的一座马厩里,2013年经过一群设计师和餐饮企业家的改造以后重新开业。饭店充满张力的两层空间以秋天色调为主的装修,设计师来自Jouin Manku的事务所,而巴黎Alain Ducasse饭店的设计师也来自这家。菜单由名厨马克·哈伊伯林(Marc Haeberlin)监督打造——此人在城南还拥有一家米其林三星饭店Auberge de L’Ill。开胃菜是热乎乎的熏鳗鱼、鹅肝酱和水果酸辣酱。主菜通常是地中海和中东特色,比如肥嫩多汁、口味香甜的烤羊腿,搭配月桂、孜然和其他中东香料。包括三道菜的二人晚餐约90欧元,不含酒水。

4. Booze and Bowlers | 10:30 p.m.

4、美酒和圆顶礼帽 | 晚上10:30

Strasbourg worships beer. Au Fût et à Mesure provides a novel means of sampling local and other Continental brands, courtesy of credit cards that you deploy at automated self-service taps scattered around the small, neo-industrial hangout. Fill one with credit and then fill your mug with Alsatian suds like Queue de Charrue (3.75 euros), a crisp, spicy blond brew made with spring water and barley. Chase them with a Dirty Duck (Cognac, Licor 43, ginger beer, Perrier, mint; 11 euros) or one of the dozens of whiskeys at nearby Code Bar, a dimly lighted nook with bowler hats for lampshades.

斯特拉斯堡崇拜啤酒。“鼓和天秤”酒馆(Au Fût et à Mesure)提供一种新奇的手段,让大家品尝当地和其他欧陆品牌的酒水。空间略小、新工业风格装修的酒馆里安装了许多水龙头,顾客自助品酒时可直接在龙头上刷信用卡消费。插卡,然后将你的酒杯装满泡沫丰富的阿尔萨斯美酒,比如每杯3.75欧元的尾犁(Queue de Charrue),一种脆爽辛辣的金色啤酒,用泉水和大麦酿制而成。接下来,尝一杯“脏鸭子”(Dirty Duck,由法国干邑、Licor 43、姜汁啤酒、沛绿雅矿泉水和薄荷调配而成,11欧元)或在附近“符号吧”(Code Bar)的十多种威士忌中选一种。代码吧设在一个灯光昏暗的角落,用圆顶礼帽做灯罩。

Saturday

星期六

5. Go Underground | 10 a.m.

5、走进地下 | 上午10点

Sure, everyone in France still raves about the country’s 2010 vintages. But they’ve never tried the Alsatian white from 1472. Tucked in a vast barrel in Cave Historiques des Hospices de Strasbourg, the world’s oldest wine reveals hints of vanilla, honey, hazelnut and spice — at least according to tasting notes from 1944, when the keg was last tapped for consumption. It’s one of many enormous barrels stored in the hospice’s centuries-old cellars, which lie beneath the grounds of Strasbourg’s municipal hospital. Most are recent vintages from regional wine­makers who have been granted the honor of aging some of their wines in the venerable kegs. The adjacent boutique sells the bottled versions, from pinot gris to riesling to pinot noir.

当然,所有法国人都在赞美该国2010年份的葡萄。但他们从未尝过1472年的阿尔萨斯白葡萄酒。藏在斯特拉斯堡老人院的历史酒窖(Cave Historiques des Hospices de Strasbourg)中,这批世界最古老的葡萄酒略带香草、蜂蜜、榛果和香料的滋味,至少1944年的品酒记录这样认为——那一年这批酒桶最后一次打开龙头让人品尝。这个古老的酒窖位于斯特拉斯堡市医院的地下,窖中藏有数不清的酒桶。目前大多数藏酒都来自本地的葡萄酒制造商,他们有幸将自己的葡萄放入这些尊贵的木桶发酵。隔壁的精品店出售瓶装版本的葡萄酒,从灰皮诺、雷司令到黑皮诺都有。

6. Watch the Clock | 11:30 a.m.

6、观赏钟表 | 晚上11:30

Has your time on Earth been well spent? Existential questions arise when beholding the towering astronomical clock inside Strasbourg’s iconic medieval Notre Dame cathedral. Constructed in the 16th century and now running on a mechanism from the 1800s, the multistory, many-tiered clock is outfitted with biblical automatons, Zodiac imagery, elemental motifs, religious statues and moving dials. At 12:30 p.m. every day, an angel strikes a bell, and another turns over an hourglass. An old man passes before Death, who clangs a bell 12 times with a bone. The 12 apostles pass before Christ, while a rooster beats his wings. Then, finally, Christ offers a gesture of peace. Tickets (2 euros) for the pageant (preceded by a film) are sold from 11:30 a.m. to noon inside the south door. Prepare to queue.

你珍惜此生时光了吗?目视斯特拉斯堡的地标建筑、中世纪风格的圣母大教堂那高耸入云的钟楼时,你心中会升起许多存在主义的疑问。这座建于16世纪的钟楼在1800年代更新了机械组,至今仍在正常运行。钟楼有好几层高,多座尖塔直冲云霄,楼面装饰着圣经场景、星座图案、哲学主题、宗教雕塑,还有时刻移动的指针。每天下午12:30,一个天使敲响铃铛,另一个天使就将沙漏翻过来。一位老人走过死神,用一根骨头来更换铃铛。12门徒走过耶稣,同时一只公鸡拍打翅膀。最后,耶稣做出一个和平的手势。在南门内,每天上午11:30 到正午会出售花车盛会的票(2欧元),盛会之前会有一场电影。请做好排队的准备。

7. Surrogate Grandmother | 1 p.m.

7、代理祖母 | 下午1点

If you don’t have an Alsatian grandmother to cook you boiled beef with horseradish or riesling-braised chicken, Fink’Stuebel is a warm, wood-beamed substitute. You might start with the lush, buttery onion and ham tart before trying a classic choucroute garnie: mounds of zesty sauerkraut topped with a plethora of pork: a large leg joint, boiled and grilled sausages and multiple slices of meat. Dessert might be waffles in chocolate sauce or a cherry-plum crumble with schnapps syrup and whipped cream. If a food coma sets in, upstairs the restaurant rents guest rooms. A three-course meal for two, without drinks, runs about 75 euros.

如果你没有一个阿尔萨斯祖母为你烹制加了山葵的炖牛肉或雷司令炖煮的鸡肉,温暖而装满木梁的Fink’Stuebel饭店是个不错的替代品。也许,应该以味道丰厚的黄牛洋葱和火腿挞作为开胃菜,然后尝试经典的德国腌菜:一撮滋味丰富的泡菜,下面放着一大堆猪肉:有大块的腿关节、先煮后烤的香肠,还有各种肉片。甜点可能是加了巧克力酱的华夫饼,或加了樱桃和里子的面包碎,搭配烈酒糖浆和生奶油。酒足饭饱之后如果感觉昏昏欲睡,楼上就有客房出租。包括三道主菜的二人份正餐大约75欧元,不含酒水。

8. Three Museums in One | 3 p.m.

8、三合一的博物馆 | 下午3点

Designed by a royal architect, the 18th-century Palais Rohan is a masterwork. But the real gems are inside the magisterial edifice, which houses museums devoted to archaeology, decorative arts and fine arts. The latter is the marquee attraction, thanks to the stellar assortment of Italian Renaissance paintings, which include Correggio’s haunting, surreal “Judith and the Servant” and Raphael’s richly colored and finely detailed “Portrait of a Young Woman.” Dutch and Flemish painters also make a strong showing, from the plump cherubs of Rubens to scenes of social life by Pieter de Hooch. Admission 6.50 euros.

由一位皇家建筑师设计并在18世纪建成的罗翰宫(Palais Rohan)是个建筑学的杰作。但真正的宝贝却在宫殿里面,那设于室内、分别专注于考古、装饰艺术和美术的三家博物馆。美术博物馆尤为引人,因为里面有许多意大利文艺复兴时代的绘画,包括柯勒乔(Correggio)阴暗惊悚、超现实主义风格的《朱迪斯与仆人》(Judith and the Servant)和拉斐尔色彩丰富、细节精美的《一位年轻女人的肖像》(Portrait of a Young Woman)。荷兰和弗兰德画家也有大量作品入选,包括鲁本斯胖乎乎的小天使到彼得·德·霍赫(Pieter de Hooch)笔下的社交场景。门票6.50欧元。

9. The Home Team | 5 p.m.

9、家族团队 | 下午5点

Whether your home is classy, kooky or retro, a design boutique awaits in the Rue des Juifs area. Fou du Roi brims with classic Verner Panton chairs and Tom Dixon lighting, as well as French products like spice-scented candles from Gilles Dewavrin. Samurai-sword umbrellas, serving dishes embossed with Napoleon’s face and waving solar-powered mini-statues of the pope form part of the kitschy collection at Tadzio. In Polychrome, a mishmash of bright plastic furniture, vinyl LPs and funky glassware hearkens back to the ’60s and ’70s.

不管你家的装修风格是古典、怪异还是怀旧,在Rue des Juifs 街区都能找到类似的店面。Fou du Roi商店充满了古典的维纳·潘通(Verner Panton)椅子和汤姆·迪克森(Tom Dixon)灯具,还有各种法国物品,比如吉勒·德瓦文(Gilles Dewavrin)家散发胡椒气味的蜡烛。貌似武士长剑的雨伞,有拿破仑肖像浮雕的餐盘,Tadzio商店还有多种媚俗的小摆设,包括形状波浪起伏、太阳能充电的教皇小雕像。Polychrome商店出售色彩明艳的塑料家具、黑胶唱片和令人忆起六七十年代的奇特玻璃制品。

10. Rising Stairs, Rising Star | 8 p.m.

10、楼梯之上,新星升起 | 晚上8点

Which floor, please? Opened in 2012 and awarded its first Michelin star this year, the fast-rising 1741 restaurant occupies an early-19th-century mansion whose stairwell elevates guests through four levels of small salons decorated in Baroque boudoir style. The food is elevated too, from the foie gras-larded table butter to desserts like honey-soaked fig purée with panna cotta and honey ice cream. In between you might find a foie gras trifecta (in glazed form, as nougat and mixed with powdery Parmesan cheese) or slices of rare venison with tiny mushrooms, raspberries and beets. Four courses cost 89 euros per person.

请问您去哪层楼?2012年开业的饭店“1741”今年已经获得了第一颗米其林之星,不愧是餐饮界的新秀。这家饭店设在一座19世纪早期的建筑里,顾客需要走过四层楼梯并途径几个巴洛克闺房风格的店面才能到达。当然饭店的美食也很高端,比如掺有鹅肝酱的餐桌黄油、搭配甜蜜无花果酱的奶油布丁和蜂蜜冰淇淋。有时候还能发现混搭产品,比如三合一鹅肝酱(与杏仁糖和粉状的帕马森奶酪掺在一起,做成抹酱的状态),以及搭配小蘑菇、覆盆子和甜菜的罕见鹿肉片。包括四道菜的一餐,人均89欧元。

11. Bathtubs and Barrels | 10:30 p.m.

11、浴缸和木桶 | 晚上10:30

If you fancy a drink in the bathroom, step into Wawa, one of the hip new spots around Place St.-Nicolas-aux-Ondes. A clawfoot tub and a disconnected, disused commode are among the seating options in this trashy-chic design haven. Clearly some­one had a few absinthes (5 euros) when drawing up the plans. More rustic and refined, Le XX, a wine bar, opened this year with tables made from barrels, a cozy lounge nook and a list of Gallic vintages that includes a dense, honeyish grand cru Gewürztraminer from Kaefferkopf Simonis (6.50 euros a glass).

如果你喜欢在浴室里喝一杯,就请走入Wawa酒吧,这家位于Place St.-Nicolas和aux-Ondes交叉口的体育酒吧是市内最新最酷的去处之一。饭店风格既颓废又时髦,四爪浴缸和拆掉管道的废弃洗脸台都是可供客人选择的座位。显然在绘制室内装修图的时候,设计师喝了过多的苦艾酒(5欧元)。相比之下,今年开业的葡萄酒吧Le XX装修就更偏于乡村风格,也更加精致。它采用木头酒桶做餐桌,气氛轻松,供应各种法国葡萄酒,比如来自Kaefferkopf Simonis酒庄的低度白葡萄酒(每杯6.50欧元),质感浓稠、略带蜂蜜口感。

Sunday

星期日

12. Modern Arp | 11 a.m.

12、以阿尔普为代表的现当代艺术 | 上午11点

“Art is a fruit that grows in man ­” begins a quote by the artist Jean Arp — a Strasbourg native — stenciled inside the Musée d’Art Moderne et Contemporain. If so, then the museum is a blooming orchard indeed. The modern art collection is stronger than the contemporary holdings (one flight up), so begin with Rodin’s iconic “The Thinker” (1904), then admire the strong lines and bold color blocks of Picasso’s “Nude Gathering Flowers” (1958) before threading through the rooms of works by Sisley, Gauguin, Juan Gris, Magritte, Kandinsky, Max Ernst and other heavyweights. Local talents like Arp and the illustrator Gustave Doré get rooms of their own, highlighted by Doré's massive, dynamic, mystical “Christ Leaving the Praetorium” (1867-72). Before taking your own leave, take a last look at Strasbourg from the rooftop terrace of the museum’s Art Café. Then bid the city au revoir — or, as they say in German, auf Wiedersehen. Admission 7 euros.

“艺术是人类身上结出的果实。”阿尔萨斯本地人、艺术家让·阿尔普(Jean Arp)的这句名言,镌刻在现当代艺术博物馆的墙上。如果他的话属实,这家博物馆就是座硕果累累的果园。现代艺术的展品比当代艺术数量更多,位置也在后者的楼上。所以,让我们的旅行从罗丹的代表作《思想者》(1904年)开始,然后欣赏毕加索《裸女采花》(Nude Gathering Flowers,1958年)粗犷的线条和大胆的色彩。接下来,仔细观摩希思黎(Sisley)、高更(Gauguin)、胡安·格里斯(Juan Gris)、玛格里特(Magritte)、康定斯基(Kandinsky)、马克斯·恩斯特(Max Ernst)和其他重量级艺术家的作品。阿尔普、古斯塔夫·多雷(Gustave Doré)等当地艺术家都有各自的展厅,多雷的画作《耶稣离开总督府》(Christ Leaving the Praetorium,1867-1872年)宏大磅礴,充满神秘气息。离开博物馆之前,请到屋顶露台的艺术咖啡馆Art Café俯瞰整个斯特拉斯堡。然后用法语“au revoir”(再见)告别这个城市,或者用德语“auf Wiedersehen”。门票7欧元。

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